253 articles · 15 videos found · page 6 of 9
Time+Tide
These French watches strike a great balance between elegance and sportiness at a reasonable price.The post Charlie Paris’ new Grande Randonnée watches promise outdoorsy practicality at a reasonable price appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
WatchAdvice
We go hands-on with the newly released Seiko Prospex Marinemaster 1968 Heritage Diver’s Watch to see how heritage and tradition meet modern-day needs! What We Love: The textured dial and 3D markers add depth to the watch High legibility making time reading easy The easy-wearing ergonomic design What We Don’t: The bracelet clasp design is still lacking in finesse Crown placement at not quite 4 o’clock seems off-balance The closed caseback hides what would be a nice-looking movement inside Overall Rating: 8.375/10 Value for Money: 8/10 Wearability: 9/10 Design: 8.5/10 Build Quality: 8/10 Seiko has been on a bit of a walk down memory lane with many of their releases this year, looking back at the old vintage models from the 1960s and ’70s as inspiration and reviving some of these pieces for modern-day customers. It seems that this is a little bit of a trend currently, and has accelerated over the last few years with people looking for different pieces to place on their wrists. Many brands in the watch world have gone down this path, and it does make for some great vintage homage or revival pieces and a slight break away from the norm. Seiko has some great heritage pieces, and with their latest release, Seiko has gone back over 50 years to 1968, just three years after their very first dive watch and re-incarnated it in 2024 in the form of the Prospex Marinemaster 1968 Heritage Diver, with a black dial and white dial variant to choose from. First Impressions We had ...
Worn & Wound
When it comes to mastering the balance between refinement and artistry, does anyone do it better than Japanese watchmakers? King Seiko’s latest additions to the KSK line-up just proved my point. These three new references – the latest from the recently reintroduced Seiko spin-off brand – are inspired by the company’s roots in Kameido, Tokyo and show not only the beauty of the region, but speak to King Seiko’s history and technical precision. Each dial is something truly unique, bringing traditional Japanese patterns with color gradients. First on the list is SJE103, which takes the deep red of regional plums and turns it into a sanguine interpretation against the dial. SJE107 is a bit more subdued, with a purple gradient and a wisteria-brand pattern that’s subtle (some motifs of nature can be a little too on-the-nose, in my opinion, but this one balances between inspiration and interpretation well). And finally, my favorite, is SJE105, which has a turtle shell pattern and a rich blue dial, inspired by the local Sumida River in Kameido. Each watch runs on Seiko’s Caliber 6L35 automatic movement, offering a 45-hour power reserve. All references measure in at 38.6mm and are crafted from stainless steel with a matching bracelet, making for a dressy option that I think fits the motifs of the dial perfectly. Like other KSK references, these watches recall classic King Seiko case lines that will certainly appeal to vintage watch aficionados. They also serve as a rem...
WatchAdvice
The Riviera 10770: Baume & Mercier’s Perfect Balance of Form and Function is now met with a brilliant emerald-green dial! What We Love: Exceptional dial design The movement offers a 5-day power reserve A smaller and slimmer case makes it more versatile. What We Don’t: The bracelet design is too plain for Riviera’s case finishing and dial design Lack of micro-adjustment on bracelet. Lack of colour options for secondary strap options (to colour match with the dial) Overall Rating: 8.95/10 Value for Money: 9.3/10 Wearability: 8.75/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 8.75/10 Founded in 1830, Baume & Mercier, as a watchmaker, has long been known to have a deep-rooted passion for horology, reflected through their timepeices that show elegance and precision. Brothers Louis-Victor and Célestin Baume founded Baume & Mercier, and the brand quickly found itself on the international stage with a reputation for creating watches of exceptional quality, earning them numerous awards for precision at international exhibitions. In 1918, Baume & Mercier further solidified its “luxury image” by bringing in Paul Mercier as a partner. Paul Mercier brought a modern vision to the brand, leaning more towards aesthetic innovation while still upholding the brand’s technical excellence. This philosophy of Paul Mercier laid the groundwork for future Baume & Mercier collections! View this post on Instagram A post shared by Baume & Mercier (@baumeetmercier) All-new Baume & Mercier Riviera 10...
Monochrome
Schwarz Etienne, established in 1902, has a rich history as a movement and components supplier. Today, the brand stands out as one of the few manufacturers that produces its balance wheels and hairsprings. In recent years, Schwarz Etienne has also produced watches under its name, blending original designs with traditional craftsmanship. Noteworthy releases include the […]
SJX Watches
Having unveiled the top-of-the-line 9SA4 movement earlier this year, Grand Seiko has now installed the new calibre in a pair of vintage remakes, the Heritage Collection 45GS Re-creation SLGW004 and SLGW005. A limited edition in either steel or 18k yellow gold, the 45GS Re-creation is one of Grand Seiko’s few vintage reissues with its latest-generation calibre that boasts a high-frequency balance and Grand Seiko’s proprietary Dual Impulse Escapement. Initial thoughts This is Grand Seiko’s first remake of the 45GS, but if the new pair look familiar, that’s because Grand Seiko launched a 44GS remake in 2013. Though the 44GS and 45GS are different models launched just a year apart in the late 1960s, they were different models. The 45GS was an upgrade over the 44GS in terms of the movement, though it retained similar styling. In the same manner, the modern-day remakes are most notable for having different movements. Amongst Grand Seiko’s many remakes, the 45GS stands out for the 9SA4 inside. It’s a large, slim, and sophisticated calibre that’s a substantial improvement over the manual-wind movements found in past remakes. Because of the movement, the 45GS remakes are amongst the more expensive manual-wind Grand Seiko models at US$9,700 in stainless steel and US$30,000 in yellow gold. Moreover, the two priced comparably to the SLGW002 and SLGW003, which are modern designs but powered by the same calibre. While not as affordable as other Grand Seiko models, the 45G...
Time+Tide
With a silicon balance spring and forged carbon case, could this be the sportiest Tissot PRX to date?The post Tissot introduces the most high-tech PRX to date, decked out in forged carbon fibre appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Ken Gargett describes the Taittinger Comtes 2013 as a champagne that dances. Citrus and grapefruit pith, florals, brioche, stonefruits, a hint of ginger and mixed spices. A beautifully elegant champagne with immaculate balance and intensity, which lingers long after first impressions.
Monochrome
During the 20th century, Junghans recruited some of the best designers to perpetuate the rational, understated German aesthetic that informs the brand’s products. Anton Ziegler, in charge of design from 1930 to 1960, understood the importance of proportion and balance on a dial and the elegance of a slim case, characteristics that have defined the Meister […]
Time+Tide
Czapek's dual balance watch gets a shiny blue makeover.The post The Czapek Place Vendôme Complicité Stardust Cobalt combines extensive sapphire tech and a dual escapement appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
Mr Roger Dubuis founded his eponymous brand in 1995, swiftly achieving success with timepieces that deftly balance traditional watchmaking craftsmanship and bold, expressive designs. Since 2003, the brand has been renowned for its expertise in tourbillon watches, starting with the calibre RD03. This fully integrated manufacture has since become a specialist in architectural skeletonised tourbillons, […]
SJX Watches
The most complicated H. Moser & Cie. sports watch to date, the Streamliner Concept Minute Repeater Tourbillon Blue Enamel is derived from the unique Streamliner Pandamonium created in collaboration with MB&F;. The new Streamliner retains both the minute repeater and tourbillon, but without the panda figure and the oversized balance wheel. In typical Moser “concept” style, the blue grand feu enamel dial is free of any markings and finished with a fumè gradient effect that darkens towards the periphery. Also found in the Endeavour, the movement was developed in collaboration with specialist Manufacture Hautes Complications (MHC). Initial thoughts Since Moser released the Streamliner four years ago, the sports watch has become the brand’s bestseller – unsurprisingly given the popularity of the integrated-bracelet-sports-watch category in general. The new repeater-tourbillon fills in a gap in the Streamliner range, which is to say a top-of-the-line, flagship complication. Both minute repeater and flying tourbillon are visible on the dial If you like the Streamliner design, as I do, the new repeater-tourbillon is a handsome watch. The addition of the visible mechanisms on the dial add greater detail and depth to the visuals, while the fired enamel dial is a nice tough, though a fragile enamel dial is somewhat paradoxical in a sports watch. The repeater-tourbillon is similar in dimensions to the Streamliner chronograph, a good size for a sports watch of this design. The ...
Worn & Wound
One of my favorite Watches & Wonders experiences these past few years was the brief time I got to spend with the Moser Pioneer Cylindrical Tourbillon. All tourbillons are special, of course, but this one is especially unique and I found it to be genuinely kind of awe inspiring in person. As the name of the watch implies, the cylindrical hairspring wraps around the balance spindle vertically, giving what is already a fairly dramatic watch an even more profound sense of depth. It’s a particularly challenging watchmaking feat to pull off, but pays dividends, according to Moser, in reducing friction and improving isochronism, both of which play a role in a more stable rate through the duration of the movement’s power reserve. In the last few weeks, Moser has been busy introducing two new versions of their most impressive tourbillon, this time as part of the Streamliner collection of watches, and in both cases in partnership with the BWT Alpine F1 Team. The watches take a similar aesthetic approach seen in the Pioneer Cylindrical Tourbillon, with a skeletonized dial that prominently highlights the flying tourbillon at 6:00, and a decentralized dial at the 12:00 position. The difference of course is that now we have this complication in a Streamliner case (and on a rubber strap) for a watch (a pair of watches, actually) that might just be the sportiest Moser has ever made. Both versions of the watch use synthetic, translucent minerals for the small decentralized dials. For...
Worn & Wound
The Tour Auto, rooted in the historic Tour de France Automobile dating back to 1899, has become a pinnacle of motorsport, featuring legendary drivers like Maurice Trintignant and iconic brands such as Ferrari and Porsche. Today, over 250 competing crews traverse France’s scenic roads and racetracks, captivating spectators. Baltic returns for a second year in the row as the Official Timekeeper, and, in commemoration of the event, has produced 500 Tricompax timepieces. The Tricompax’s colorway strikes a balance between tradition and modernity, drawing inspiration from the excitement and iconography of the race. Its dial, in a matte light beige, complements three black-ringed subdials, reminiscent of the Tour de France Automobile’s colors. Accentuated by a black railway track, it pairs harmoniously with the tachymeter scale bezel, designed for speeds of up to 200 km/h. The Tricompax is encased in a 39.5mm 316L stainless steel case, clocking in at a thin 13.5mm profile. With a 63-hour power reserve from the Sellita SW510-M manually wound movement, 50-meter water resistance, and its double-domed sapphire crystal, each feature of this watch is meant for the long-haul. Each watch comes with both a steel flat link bracelet and a navy blue Alcantara strap, housed in a beautifully presented custom-made case. Also included in the case is a Rally Timer comprising two emblematic motorsport tools: a stopwatch with a matte light gray dial, operated by a Hanhart hand-wound movemen...
Worn & Wound
I have a complicated relationship with Day displays. So often, they’re crammed onto the dial, take up too much space, they don’t add much to the functionality of a watch - I frequently don’t know the date, I very rarely don’t know what day of the week it is - and throw everything out of balance. My… distaste for day-of-the-week displays (and frankly the complication as a whole) is why I prefer the Datejust to the Day-Date and have never kept an SKX for longer than a few months. Still, every so often, some brand comes along and does something so clever I can’t ignore it. Here, with the new Fire Exit Watch from William Wood Watches, we find clever in full supply. Those familiar with William Wood Watches will know that the brand draws heavy inspiration from the history (and materials) of firefighting, and the brand supports a number of firefighting charities. While most William Wood Watches draw their firefighting inspiration from firefighters and their equipment, the Fire Exit Watch draws from an oft-overlooked piece of fire safety gear, the emergency exit sign. Specifically, the Fire Exit Watch is based on the globally ubiquitous ISO standard (yes, they standardize more than dive watches!) green “Fire Exit Man” signs. Those of us who spend most of our time in the United States may be shocked to discover that, as with the metric system, most of the rest of the world has gotten on board with a single style of exit sign. With the Fire Exit Watch, William W...
SJX Watches
Girard-Perregaux (GP) is dressing up its entry-level “bridge” model with meteorite panels that flank the visible barrel and going train. The Girard-Perregaux Free Bridge Meteorite retains the model’s 44 mm steel case with a domed crystal and ergonomic lugs, with the centrepiece being the free-sprung balance wheel and escapement in silicon. Initial Thoughts GP’s flagship complication, historically speaking, was the Tourbillon with Three Gold Bridges. The Free Bridge is an abbreviated, affordable take on the Three Bridge concept. Although the Free Bridge is a simple watch – it’s a two-hand timepiece indicating just hours and minutes – it has been executed fairly elaborately in terms of the movement. In that sense, the Free Bridge is similar to the Ulysse Nardin Freak X, which is not surprising since the two are sister companies. However, past versions of the Free Bridge were fairly plain in terms of design. The Free Bridge Meteorite is a bit more stylish in terms of aesthetics thanks to the meteorite panels that frame the open-worked movement. The silvery-grey tone of the meteorite is a good match for the black and grey palette of the watch. At CHF24,600, the Free Bridge Meteorite isn’t too expensive, though it isn’t the same sort of value proposition that the Freak X is. Though the two watches are similar thematically, the Freak X has a more complex movement but only costs about 10% more. The Free Bridge Meteorite would have been a similar value propositio...
Monochrome
In 2016, Glashütte Original unveiled the Senator Excellence series, an offspring of the more considerable Senator collection distinguished by a subtly modern and elegant aesthetic. Along with the series, the brand introduced the in-house Calibre 36, featuring a silicon balance spring, a substantial 100-hour power reserve, and chronometer-grade timekeeping. This innovative movement was the foundation […]
Worn & Wound
One of the challenges of gift-giving is striking the balance between sentimentality and practicality. Today we will be focusing on the latter by highlighting a few products that have a wide appeal and can find great use in everyday life. This Chronicle is all about EDC items that can be stocking-stuffers or just nice small gifts. They are all handy, useful, and under $100. Check out these and all our other EDC items right here in the Windup Watch Shop! One of the challenges of gift-giving is striking the balance between sentimentality and practicality. Today we will be focusing on the latter by highlighting a few products that have a wide appeal and can find great use in everyday life. This Chronicle is all about EDC items that can be stocking-stuffers or just nice small gifts. They are all handy, useful, and under $100. Check out these and all our other EDC items right here in the Windup Watch Shop! The post EDC Picks for the Holidays appeared first on Worn & Wound.
SJX Watches
Breitling has just announced the acquisition of Universal Genève, a once-storied brand famous for its Polerouter and Compax chronographs but that was dormant for years. Breitling will pay CHF60 million for the brand, but in tranches with CHF20 million upfront and the balance over the next five years. The acquisition marks the first step in chief executive Georges Kern’s ambitions of building a watchmaking group, which will presumably go public. According to Mr Kern, Universal will be revived by a new team and run independently of Breitling, though it is almost a certainty Breitling will bestow upon its sister company some of its in-house movement know-how. A sleeping beauty Since 1989, Universal Genève has been owned Stelux, a Hong Kong watchmaking group focused on the affordable end of the market. The company’s primary business is the lucrative distribution of Seiko in Hong Kong and Southeast Asia, while its City Chain stores specialised in low-priced watches. Stelux owns a handful of other Swiss brands, including Solvil et Titus and Catena, none of which are premium brands as Universal might possibly be. Although Universal attempted several halfhearted comebacks, particularly in the 1990s, the brand has gone nowhere for some time, making it a relatively easy turnaround given the starting point. Commenting in the takeover announcement, Breitling chief executive Georges Kern says, “Rebuilding a brand with such a rich narrative is not a quick endeavor-it is a meti...
Hodinkee
The new RM 07-01 Automatic Colored Ceramic capsule is a Memphis totem that achieves the perfect balance between aesthetics and tech specs.
SJX Watches
For their joint contribution to this November’s Only Watch charity auction, H. Moser & Cie and MB&F; have released the Streamliner Pandamonium. Made up of a Moser Streamliner case, fume dial, and minute repeating movement, the Pandamonium gets the MB&F; exposed, oversized balance wheel construction along with a panda DJ miniature sculpture. Initial thoughts These two brands are not strangers to each other, having collaborated many times before, this joint effort however, seems to be much more Moser than MB&F;, given this is essentially a Streamliner with a hint of MB&F;. Though it is an appealing watch if you like the Streamliner design, I expected the whole to be greater than the sum of the parts with such creative companies combining their powers. While the panda figure looms large in the marketing for this watch, in reality, it is easy to miss on the dial since it just under the flying balance wheel. MB&F; has employed a tiny sculpture as a power reserve indicator in the past, but here the panda is no more than a nice piece of miniature art. It would have been great if there was more of a mechanical aspect to this character, which would have transformed it into a modern take on old-school automaton repeaters – which is not too much of a stretch given the price tag. This watch is undoubtedly whimsical, but it has credible horological backing. The estimate of CHF300,000-400,000 is entirely expected for a minute repeater, and will likely be surpassed, albeit not by mult...
Time+Tide
The HYT Conical Tourbillon Infinity Sapphires is a limited edition of 8 pieces Its tourbillon calibre, with a spiral balance inclined at 30 degrees, was developed with master watchmaker Eric Coudray Framing the tourbillon, distinctly coloured gems – fuchsia, blue-grey and yellow – rotate at different speeds around the dial I am rather comfortable in … ContinuedThe post The new HYT Conical Tourbillon Infinity Sapphires is a high complication fit for Thanos appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Reviewed and tested for real-world use, these field watches balance tool-watch toughness with everyday usability on trails or on the job.
Quill & Pad
Ken Gargett reports that the sensational Bollinger RD 2008 is a deep golden bronze colour. The immediate impression was two things. First, an impressive array of nutty notes. Hazelnuts certainly, but also walnuts and a touch of almond. Fuller than many, as one expects from Bolly, but the balance never wavers. It shows just how much time on lees can bring about changes in a wine.
Worn & Wound
A dynamic duo is a way to describe a harmonious connection between two people that tend to create positive results when their unique traits are aligned together. Think Kobe and Shaq, Rick and Morty, or Thomas Bangalter and Guy-Manuel de Homem-Christo, aka Daft Punk. This phenomenon can also be found by way of successful collaborations between brands across different industries. Kith and New Balance, as well as The James Brand and Topo Designs come to mind. One ongoing collaboration in particular that happens to intersect our horological universe is none other than the one between Seiko and Rowing Blazers. Since their initial collaborative release in 2021, they’ve consistently found a way to combine the witty design personality of Rowing Blazers and everything we adore about a steel Seiko sports watch. In timely fashion with Summer just around the corner, Seiko and Rowing Blazers have teamed up once again to deliver a new set of dial colors to their Rowing Blazers x Seiko 5 Sports collection. This new release adds a fresh palette of colors to the entire collection. Like the previous release, the Rowing Blazers x Seiko 5 Sports is supported by three vibrant colors – a pastel pink, deep purple and canary yellow. The three dial colors host a set of black hour markers with T-shaped silver accents. From above, the hour markers look one dimensional, but a side profile reveals an angular quality that slopes towards the center of the dial. The remaining reference in this set is...
Time+Tide
Breguet’s new Classique Quantième Perpétuel 7327 is based on their automatic pocket watches from the 1780s The perpetual calendar display is arranged with strength and balance It’s a great size at 39mm in diameter and 46mm lug-to-lug The law of conservation of energy states that energy cannot be created nor destroyed, so the idea that … ContinuedThe post The Breguet Classique Quantième Perpétuel 7327 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
TAG Heuer’s super avant-garde Plasma is back with even more diamonds The entire dial is a one-piece diamond plate with two smaller polycrystalline diamonds used for the sub-dials Powered by a tourbillon calibre with a carbon nanotube balance spring, its anti-magnetic properties are excellent Upon its initial release in 2022, the TAG Heuer Carrera Plasma … ContinuedThe post TAG Heuer Carrera Plasma Diamant d’Avant-Garde Chronograph Tourbillon adds more diamonds appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
The "good ol’ days” aren’t over yet – at least in the world of mechanical watches, where the appreciation of traditions and the creation of lasting values are as essential as the balance wheel and the escapement. Here, Sabine Zwettler takes a look at five of her favorite modern retro-styled watches from Blancpain, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Panerai, Breitling, and Seiko.
Worn & Wound
Seiko ventures into new (and much requested) territory this week with the release of a new collection of GMT divers within their Prospex family. Using their modern 6159 design language seen in watches like the SPB187 with MM200 roots, the new watches strike a fine balance between their roots, and a strong contemporary vision for the range. Seiko has proven quite adept at this in recent years with their restructuring of their dive watch collections, but these latest examples bring something new to the table: a GMT complication within a new 3 day automatic movement, the 6R54. The new Prospex GMT diver range welcomes two new references in the SPB381 and 383, and in true Seiko fashion, a single limited edition in the SPB385. Each welcomes the new 6R35 within a steel 42mm case that measures 12.8mm in thickness, and should wear quite similarly to this SPB187 we went hands-on with right here. The angular case gets the distinctive deep chamfer along the lug which has a relatively short overhang to make for a perfectly manageable experience on the wrist. These watches mark the first time a mechanical GMT movement has made its way into the Prospex dive watch, as the GMT diver is something of a niche genre, and may, to some extent, excuse the fact that this is a caller style GMT execution. The GMT hand can be set independently in one-hour increments, making it a better option for those who work with or communicate with other time zones more than for those who travel between them fr...
Time+Tide
Ulysse Nardin Blast Tourbillon Blue & Gold’s faceted case is inspired by the lines of stealth aircraft design 45mm in diameter, 18K rose gold and PVD blue titanium case. Flying Tourbillon. Hours and minutes. Escapement wheel, anchor and balance spring in silicium. When delving into the romanticism of traditional high-end watchmaking, we often discuss hand-craftsmanship. But, … ContinuedThe post The Ulysse Nardin Blast Tourbillon Blue & Gold offers exemplary in-house machined mastery appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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