Revolution
When Black and Gold is Racy: The De Bethune DB28GS JPS
De Bethune’s latest DB28GS JPS is a sports watch inspired by F1 and driven by one of the most incredible movements ever designed
203 articles · 176 videos found · page 6 of 13
Revolution
De Bethune’s latest DB28GS JPS is a sports watch inspired by F1 and driven by one of the most incredible movements ever designed
Revolution
Joining the harvest of green-dialled watches released this year, De Bethune’s green iteration of its DB25 Perpetual Calendar is anything but conventional.
Quill & Pad
As might be expected from a collaboration between De Bethune and Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons, the UAE Hawk is absolutely stunning. In essence, it’s a DB27 Titan Hawk in a seven-piece limited edition but it is a touch more classical. What are the other differences? Martin Green takes a closer look.
SJX Watches
A pre-owned watch merchant that has smartly transformed itself into a market-making juggernaut – and also the owner of De Bethune – Watchbox just announced it has raised US$165 million from new and current investors. The valuation was not revealed, but CNBC reported it to be almost US$1 billion. The investment was led by a pair of American investment firms, The Radcliff Companies and The Spruce House Partnership. Also taking part were existing investors in Watchbox, including CMIA, a Singapore-based private equity outfit that was instrumental in enabling Watchbox to scale up when it invested US$100 million in 2017. According to Watchbox, the latest round of fundraising also brings a list of boldface names to Watchbox’s roster of investors, including Michael Jordan as well as prominent hedge fund managers Bill Ackman and Marc Lasry. A Watchbox favourite With the pre-owned watch business consolidating, Watchbox and its peers now have the scale to tap on institutional investors – and eventually public markets – for funding. A pre-owned merchant focused on German-speaking European countries, Chronext was planning to go public in mid 2021 but shelved plans for an IPO amidst rumours that it was in talks with another industry player on some sort of tie up. And European giant Chrono24, which began as a marketplace but is increasingly become a dealer with its own inventory, already achieved a US$1 billion earlier in 2021 and is reputed to be seeking a listing. Higher ambi...
Quill & Pad
De Bethune's Dream Watch 5 is more a beautifully sculptured piece of jewelry than a wristwatch, and its organic shape looks fantastic from every angle. The latest Dream Watch 5 Maestri’Art Cempasúchil honors and celebrates Mexico's Day of the Dead with a colorful, exquisitely engraved case that is also a metallurgic wonder. Horological art doesn't get better than this!
Video
For many years, I have brought up the debate between Rolex watches vs other luxury watch alternatives such as Omega. Today, this watch collector discussion still lives on, though perhaps it is time to consider trying...
Revolution
SJX Watches
Having been founded in 2017 as a spinoff from authorised retailer Govberg Jewelers, Watchbox has swiftly grown into one of the biggest sellers of pre-owned watches globally. Having started life with a US$100m capital infusion from a Singapore-based private equity outfit, the company has just announced 2021 sales will cross US$300m, thanks to growth projected to top 40%. For comparison, that is approximately equivalent to the annual watch sales of the major auction houses, namely Christie’s, Phillips, and Sotheby’s. The announcement comes just weeks after Watchbox took a majority stake in De Bethune, a respected independent watchmaker that nonetheless struggling for most of its existence, but is now on a sounder financial footing. At the same time, the financial resources available to Watchbox indicate that its investment in De Bethune might be the first of several such acquisitions. At the same time, the Philadephia-based company announced an expansion of its store network, which currently includes outposts in Dubai (pictured above), Hong Kong, and Singapore. It plans eight new stores in 2022, with five located in the United States, followed by Zurich, Riyadh, and Tokyo.
Quill & Pad
Independent watchmakers and brands have experienced an unbelievable uptick in not only business and sales during 2021 – despite, or even perhaps because of, the pandemic – but also in recognition and general respect and understanding. During Geneva Watch Days 2021, Elizabeth Doerr moderated a live panel discussion hosted by Phillips exploring in detail this new and unexpected position in the luxury watch industry. Please enjoy the recorded discussion here.
Quill & Pad
The second edition of Geneva Watch Days (August 30 through September 3, 2021) is upon the Quill & Pad team, and among the many brands Ian has looked forward to catching up with is one of his all-time favorites: De Bethune. Here are six watches the brand has recently released as seen through Ian's lens, including the brand's unique Only Watch 2021 piece.
Revolution
WatchBox Strikes An Investment Deal With De Bethune
Video
Alright, let’s talk about the Rolex Datejust. The one everyone’s seen, everyone thinks they know, but somehow still manages to surprise you when you actually wear it!
SJX Watches
Watchbox, one of the world’s largest retailers of pre-owned watches, has just announced that it’s taken a majority stake in De Bethune, an independent watchmaker that’s recently enjoying a revival in its fortunes. The deal closed on August 31, according to Patrik Hoffmann, the former chief executive of Ulysse Nardin who’s now the head of Watchbox Switzerland. According to Mr Hoffmann, De Bethune now has just four shareholders, down from a dozen or so previously, with Watchbox holding the largest stake. While Watchbox now has board representation, its investment is largely passive says Mr Hoffmann. Both of De Bethune’s key men will remain in their equity stakes as well as management roles: Pierre Jacques as chief executive and cofounder Denis Flageollet as its technical and watchmaking head. And Mr Hoffmann adds will be no change in terms of De Bethune’s products. “Denis sees the brand DNA so clearly,” continues Mr Hoffmann, “So it would be a big mistake to change that… [since] few brands have the same clearly-defined DNA.” The road from 2002 As the saying goes, history doesn’t repeat itself, but it rhymes. De Bethune was originally cofounded in 2002 by a vintage watch dealer active in the late 20th century, Davide Zanetta, a truly original character who was legendary in his time. Mr Zanetta sold his majority share of the brand in 2017 after many years of losses. One of the investors who bought into the brand in 2017 was Steven Rostovsky, a pre-own...
Quill & Pad
One thing that doesn’t change as you travel in the same hemisphere (and only travel east/west) is the night sky. It unites us. And combining watchmaking, travel, and the night sky is a terrific trifecta. The De Bethune DB25GMT Starry Varius is an incredible synthesis of what makes this brand so great.
Deployant
De Bethune releases its 29th in-house caliber with a combination of traditional watchmaking with state of the art technology. The new DB25GMT Starry Varius.
Revolution
Introducing De Bethune’s DB25GMT Starry Varius
SJX Watches
While the pandemic is not entirely in the rearview mirror yet, international travel is recovering slowly but surely, so De Bethune’s latest arrives at an opportune time. The DB25GMT Starry Varius is a gently updated version of its dual time zone wristwatch – smaller, thinner, and lighter than the original, while also sporting the brand’s trademark “Starry Night” dial. More classical than the brand’s best-known models like the DB28 or DW5, the DB25GMT nonetheless incorporates details that are quintessentially De Bethune in addition to the celestial motif dial, helping it stand out amongst dual-time watches. Initial thoughts If money was no object, the first watch I would buy is my “grail”, the De Bethune DB25 Starry Varius Tourbillon. It has an ethereal quality and technical innovations that capture both the mind and heart. Unsurprisingly, I love the DB25GMT Starry Varius, which has a similar style but is more practical. The star-studded dial is a modest upgrade, but one that significantly improves the aesthetics of the brand’s original dual time-zone watch that was launched in 2016. Matching it with a travel-time complication makes sense as a historical reference, since explorers once depended on the stars for navigation – making the design feel like a match made in heaven (pun intended). The multiple-part dial gives the watch visual depth despite the clean layout, certainly making it one of the most captivating travel watches. But the new dual ...
Video
Most watch launches don’t fail because of the product — they fail because of the content.
SJX Watches
Resembling an alien seashell, the Dream Watch 5 is De Bethune’s most unusual case and unquestionably its most artistic creation. While the model started out as a pared-back affair entirely in polished titanium, the DW5 has since evolved into a canvas for decoration like over-the-top, dancing-skeleton engraving. The DW5 Empreinte sits in between the two aesthetic extremes. Clad in deep, dark colours, the case is inlaid with a subtle, organic pattern that’s hard to describe. The distinctive colours and pattern were conceived by Clara Martin, who won the 2019 prize in the annual contest sponsored by De Bethune that’s open to masters students at the University of Art and Design Lausanne, better known by its French acronym ECAL. Ms Martin’s vision was realised by De Bethune cofounder Denis Flageollet, a talented watchmaker and self-taught metallurgist, as well as Michèle Rothen, the brand’s go-to engraver. Denis Flageollet and Clara Martin Initial thoughts De Bethune’s avant-garde in both style and watchmaking – an attractive combination that leaves the watchmaker with few peers. But even so, the DW5 still manages to stand out from the brand’s other offerings, as it is arguably a sculpture first and a timepiece second. The fluid, organic case is three-dimensional and gorgeous – and even more incredible when executed in the right material and colours, as demonstrated by the meteorite version of 2016. The DW5 Empreinte gets it right, with a deep black case a...
Revolution
Arguably the most underrated among the independent brands, De Bethune’s watches with their otherworldly aesthetic and technical innovation will appeal to a watch community searching for an authentic vision of horology.
Quill & Pad
If you love De Bethune and you love green, you will find this new version of the DB27 Titan Hawk mesmerizing. And its verdant, microlight-finished dial center isn't all there is to love: unusually for De Bethune, the Titan Hawk is now powered by an automatic movement.
Quill & Pad
The original DB28 has recently lost its place for Martin Green as the ideal watch for the wrist of Star Trek's Captain Jean-Luc Picard on the bridge of the Starship Enterprise. It’s now been replaced by another De Bethune: the out-of-this-world DB28XP Meteorite.
SJX Watches
Introduced to commemorate the 10th anniversary of De Bethune’s signature watch, the DB28XP is a pared-back, slimmer and more wearable take on the original model, though still instantly recognisable with its trademark pivoted lugs. Now De Bethune unveils the most exotic variant of the watch to date, the DB28XP Meteorite. It retains many of the elements the brand is known for, but the highlight is a brilliantly blued meteorite dial. Meteorite dials are common, even on inexpensive watches, but De Bethune’s meteorite is unlike any other in watchmaking. Though the material is just like any other meteorite, it has been heat-treated, creating a blue oxidisation that gives it a special blue sheen. Initial thoughts De Bethune is one of my favourite independent watchmakers – I love the Kind of Two Tourbillon from earlier in the year. Innovation is its raison d’etre, and the new DB28XP Meteorite exemplifies that, both technically and aesthetically. While heat-blued titanium is a De Bethune hallmark, heat-blued meteorite takes the look to a whole new level. The gold-studded “starry sky” dial captures the cosmos on the wrist. Though the look is very different, the DB28XP Meteorite has all of the wearability of the standard model. It has sprung, pivoted lugs that allow it to cling to the wrist, while also being more compact than the original, full-size DB28. The brand has previously utilised the blued meteorite in the Dream Watch 5 and Kind of Blue Meteorite – both sp...
Video
The Rolex Submariner has been dissected, debated, and celebrated more than any other. I want to look at it as an icon in 2025: How it has held up in an era when smartwatches dominate wrists, independents push the limi...
Quill & Pad
De Bethune highlights that there is more than one way to rotate a watch, using its floating lug system to perfection in the new DB Kind of Two Tourbillon. Look out, Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso! Watching the blue tourbillon escapement beating away in high-def macro video is simply captivating: you'll want to watch it over and over and over.
Quill & Pad
There’s a new double-faced superstar in town: the De Bethune DB Kind Of Two Tourbillon. Co-founder and chief watchmaker Denis Flageollet wanted to create a watch with two distinct identities, incorporating two sets of brand “DNA” on the same watch. He also wanted to use the brand’s signature, patented floating lugs to their fullest extent. Elizabeth Doerr thinks Flageollet succeeded in his goals and explains why here.
Revolution
Denis Flageollet’s first double-dialled beauty, the De Bethune DB Kind of Two seduces and impresses with both classic and contemporary good looks
Deployant
De Bethune introduces a new DB29 with two faces, and a flip case - their Kind of Two Tourbillon - two dials, two identities, one movement.
SJX Watches
Highly regarded for its original and inventive watches that blend high tech and classical, De Bethune’s latest personifies the brand’s twin personalities – literally. Based on its signature DB28, the Kind of Two Tourbillon is De Bethune’s innovative take on the reversible watch. The trademark “floating” lugs of the DB28 have been reengineered to incorporate a compact pivot for the case, allowing it to swivel in either direction, creating a sleek, symmetrical double-sided watch unlike any other. Initial thoughts While the brand got its start with traditional, Breguet-inspired watches, its raison d’etre quickly evolved into pushing the boundaries of watchmaking – both technically and visually – typified by the Kind of Two Tourbillon. Reversible watches aren’t novel, having been around since the 1930s – the iconic Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso was patented in 1931, and the most expensive watch ever is also double-faced – and are often classically styled. Most notably, Bovet has a diverse offering of highly-complicated, double-faced watches, but all executed in the Baroque style its favours. In contrast, the Kind of Two Tourbillon is clearly contemporary – and one of its face is definitely sci-fi – illustrating the technical prowess of De Bethune while expressing its avant-garde house style. The sci-fi face But because it is essentially a variant of the DB28, the Kind of Two Tourbillon will be actually wearable despite its mechanical complexity and ...
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Bargain Luxury Watches and Watch Brands - High-End Watchmakers That Lose a Ton of Value
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