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REVIEW: Adding A Bit Of Sophistication With The Speake-Marin Ripples Original WatchAdvice
Speake-Marin Oct 14, 2023

REVIEW: Adding A Bit Of Sophistication With The Speake-Marin Ripples Original

If you’re after a sporty chic watch that will set you apart, the limited production Speak-Marin Ripples Original in black could be the out of the box choice! What We Love The ripple effect dialThinness of the caseWears extremely comfortable What We Don’t Bracelet clasp is tricky to undoLack of water resistanceNo lume on the dial Overall Rating: 8.625/10 Value for money: 8/10Wearability: 9/10Design: 8.5/10Build quality: 9/10 When it comes to the world of watches, the smaller independents often come second to the larger mass luxury brands. With the exception of a few high Haute Horology Maisons, many are overlooked by collectors and buyers alike. Partly due to the lack of mainstream brand presence, i.e marketing dollars, and partly due to the entry pricing of them, with many starting in the 10s of thousands of dollars. But for a good reason! Speake-Marin is one of these brands. The Maison is just 20 years young, and fiercely independent since the English/Swiss watchmaker was bought by an ambitious and ardent female entrepreneur, Christelle Rosnoblet in 2012. With it’s brand roots in England, yet now calling Switzerland home, the Maison’s pieces are developed, assembled and controlled in a fine watchmaking workshop, Le Cercle des Horlogers, which works hand in hand with Speake-Marin’s creation studio based in Geneva. The Speake-Marin Original Ripples Original Black Speake-Marin’s philosophy is simple, and boils down to three elements: All its collections are propo...

REVIEW: Hands On With The New Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Chronograph WatchAdvice
Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Chronograph Jaeger-LeCoultre rel... Sep 17, 2023

REVIEW: Hands On With The New Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Chronograph

Jaeger-LeCoultre released their latest Polaris Chronograph a couple of weeks ago, and we had the first look, and quite frankly it’s stunning. Now we’ve gone hands on to review the blue dial variant! What We Love Super comfortable on the wristBeautiful textured lacquered dialLegibility and lume both day and night What We Don’t Clasp is a little fiddly with no push buttonNon-screw down crown makes me nervous on WRMovement isn’t as finished as you would expect Overall Rating: 8.75/10 Value for money: 8/10Wearability: 9/10Design: 9/10Build quality: 9/10 The Polaris is a quiet hit for Jaeger-LeCoultre in my opinion, and the new Chronograph released at the start of September was a nice surprise to most. We were lucky enough to get our hands on it before it’s release, and you can read the details on it here. However, being able to wear it around for a week for review really gives you a sense of how this watch really wears and looks on the wrist. In short, the blue dial pops, but recently, we also compared it to the grey dial variant, call it curiosity to see which is better – my initial thoughts are… it’s a very hard choice! The new Polaris Chronograph in Blue and grey dials The Design Let me say this first. The JLC Polaris Chronograph needs to be seen and felt in person. Photo’s really don’t do it justice, especially the texturing and gradient through the centre and main part of the dial. Both the blue and grey variants differ in this aspect, and whilst we’...

The Owner’s Perspective: Tudor’s Third Generation Black Bay Heritage 41 Burgundy WatchAdvice
Tudor s Third Generation Black Aug 24, 2023

The Owner’s Perspective: Tudor’s Third Generation Black Bay Heritage 41 Burgundy

After searching for months to try one on, I finally got my hands on the new Tudor Black Bay, and when told I was able to purchase it, I bought it! So how has it been after a month or so on the wrist? Why I Bought It Liked the 5-Link bracelet aestheticWell proportioned case and dialNew T-fit clasp The Ownership Reality Wears well due to the slimmer caseNo date still, slight bug bear of mineAluminium bezel insert is more prone to scratches than ceramic Overall rating: 9 /10 Value for money: 9/10 Wearability: 9/10 Design: 9/10 Build quality: 9/10 The Back Story The Black Bay Burgundy is now in its third generation or iteration of the watch. Originally released in 2012 to much acclaim, the watch was a great homage to the Tudor and Rolex dive watches of the 50’s. 10 years ago, it was released with an ETA movement and had the now much sought after “smiley” dial, with the lines of text at the bottom being curved making it look as thought the watch was smiling at you. And maybe it was?! This was then updated and launched at Baselworld in 2016 with the Tudor inhouse movement, the MT5602 that was COSC, the smiley removed and now with three lines of text saying it is Chronometer Certified. This is still the case with the current black and blue bezel variants on the love it or hate it faux riveted oyster style bracelet (which was done to mimic the pieces of the 1950’s). All three generations of Black Bay, from the Smiley to the new Master Chronometer However, at Watches an...

Hands On With The New Raymond Weil Pilot Flyback Chronograph – A Modern Classic! WatchAdvice
Raymond Weil Pilot Flyback Chronograph – Jul 12, 2023

Hands On With The New Raymond Weil Pilot Flyback Chronograph – A Modern Classic!

Raymond Weil recently released their new limited edition Freelancer Pilot Flyback Chronograph, and as the official launch partner, we’ve had the pleasure of testing it out over the past couple of weeks. Here’s the results… What We Love Vintage StylingThe multi-faceted dialFlyback functionality What We Don’t Stiff strap and clasp designNo date windowOverhanging lug design Overall Rating: 8/10 Value for money: 8/10Wearability: 7/10Design: 9/10Build quality: 8/10 Initial Thoughts Sitting in a café in Sydney a few weeks ago, my colleague and I laid eyes on the the Raymond Weil Freelancer Pilot Flyback Chronograph for the first time. We knew they were releasing a new pilots watch to add to the Freelancer Chronograph line, and having only seen the press pics, in person it looked the goods, especially the dial. Playing around with it for a little while, it seemed solid and well done, and being a limited edition of just 400, with a price point of AUD $6,995 for a good-looking flyback chronograph that was well built, seemed fair to us based on the competition and price points out there now. And if you missed our article on the release of this watch, before you dive into this review, check out all the details with more live pics here. The Design The design of the new Freelancer Pilot Flyback Chronograph is quite multifaceted, to say the least. Raymond Weil has used different design cues and inspiration to craft the watch to look and feel vintage, but it is anything but. The...

The Rado Captain Cook gets an Aussie exclusive in green and gold Time+Tide
Rado Captain Cook gets Apr 29, 2023

The Rado Captain Cook gets an Aussie exclusive in green and gold

Rado’s Australian exclusive edition of the Captain Cook is adorned in the Aussie green and gold colour scheme The yellow gold PVD is applied to a stainless-steel case and bracelet, although the clasp is made of titanium The green bezel is made from high-tech ceramic, and perfectly matches the green gradient dial Rado are a … ContinuedThe post The Rado Captain Cook gets an Aussie exclusive in green and gold appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Tudor Black Bay 54 shrinks to the original 37mm case Time+Tide
Tudor Black Bay 54 shrinks Mar 27, 2023

The Tudor Black Bay 54 shrinks to the original 37mm case

The new Tudor Black Bay 54 takes its inspiration from the 1954 reference 7922. Its 37mm case offers a great gender netural option for accurate vintage vibes. The steel bracelet is fitted with Tudor’s T-fit clasp. For thousands of watch collectors, the introduction of the Black Bay 58 was a phenomenal release that turned even … ContinuedThe post The Tudor Black Bay 54 shrinks to the original 37mm case appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The new Tudor Black Bay in burgundy sports a Jubilee-style bracelet Time+Tide
Tudor Black Bay Mar 27, 2023

The new Tudor Black Bay in burgundy sports a Jubilee-style bracelet

The new Tudor Black Bay in burgundy fills the hole of the discontinued red Heritage Black Bay. It features modern Tudor features such as an in-house movement with a 70 hour power reserve. You can choose between their riveted bracelet, a Jubilee-style bracelet, or a rubber strap, all with the T-fit clasp system. Fears have … ContinuedThe post The new Tudor Black Bay in burgundy sports a Jubilee-style bracelet appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: Oris debut new in-house manually wound movement with the Big Crown Calibre 473 Time+Tide
Oris debut new in-house manually Jan 10, 2023

INTRODUCING: Oris debut new in-house manually wound movement with the Big Crown Calibre 473

Oris debut new in-house manually wound calibre 473 in the new Oris Big Crown Calibre 473. Despite being manually wound, it is 0.5mm THICKER than the previous automatic model due to new power reserve indicator on the movement. The release also heralds Oris’ first-ever butterfly clasp with fine adjustment mechanism. Introducing: The Oris Big Crown … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: Oris debut new in-house manually wound movement with the Big Crown Calibre 473 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Raymond Weil Freelancer Chronograph 7741 Hands-on Review WatchAdvice
Raymond Weil Freelancer Chronograph 7741 Hands-on Jul 4, 2022

Raymond Weil Freelancer Chronograph 7741 Hands-on Review

What we love: Great colour combinations are available, our pick is the green dial A watch you can buy now, no waitlists Legibility and dial design and layout and good-looking movement through the caseback What we don’t love: The watch will wear big for wrist sizes smaller than 6.5 inches Some may find the push-button clasp dig into the underside of the wristSome may find the lugs to protrude on the leather and aid in wearing large Overall rating: 7.75/10 Value for money: 7.5/10 Wearability: 7.5/ 10 Design: 8.0/10 Build quality: 8.0/10 RAYMOND WEIL is one of the few mainstream watch brands that are still independent and family-owned. So it is no surprise that they have re-invigorated their flagship Freelancer line and taken it up a notch for their 2022 release of the new Freelancer Chronograph 7741 line. I had the privilege of going hands-on with the new releases; the black and white  ‘Panda’ on both steel bracelet and black leather strap, the two-tone with Rose Gold on the brown strap, and a striking green dial and bezel with silver Tri-Compax dials on the green leather strap. Young in Age, but Mature in Nature RAYMOND WEIL is a young brand in terms of watchmaking. Compared to other brands that have their roots put down in the 1800s and in some cases, late 1700s, this makes RAYMOND WEIL, born in 1976, a horological child in age (so to speak!) RAYMOND WEIL is known for style and being heavily aligned to music, and looking at RAYMOND WEIL watches, you’d be forgiv...

Tudor Introduces the Black Bay Pro SJX Watches
Tudor Introduces Mar 30, 2022

Tudor Introduces the Black Bay Pro

Tudor finally introduces a more compact GMT watch with the Black Bay Pro, which is 39 mm and equipped with a fixed bezel. With slightly retro styling, the Black Bay Pro nonetheless has all the features that characterise Tudor, including a proprietary movement with a silicon hairspring as well as the newly-developed T-Fit micro-adjustment clasp. Initial thoughts The Black Bay Pro is what I have been hoping for, a more compact Tudor GMT. It has a 39 mm case just like the Black Bay Fifty-Eight, the perfect size in my estimation. And it has a true GMT function thanks to the MT5652 inside. It also sports a useful upgrade: the T-Fit clasp that allows for micro-adjustment on the fly, giving this a feature usually found on pricier watches. The aesthetic certainly beings to mind the Rolex Explorer II ref. 1655, which is a good thing (and it was probably designed with a knowing wink). Arguably the only downside is the case thickness. At 14.6 mm high the watch is thick, though not excessively so. It does not feel ungainly on the wrist, although the flat, vertical case sides do accentuate the height. Another only potential downside is the fixed bezel, which means the watch cannot track the third time zone that’s possible on the standard GMT. It’s not a dealbreaker for me since the third time zone functionality is something I never use on a GMT watch. Still, the Black Bay Pro is an impressive value proposition all things considered, and certainly one of the best buys of the fair. F...

Ball Engineering Hydrocarbon NEDU Chronograph Hands-on Review WatchAdvice
Feb 7, 2022

Ball Engineering Hydrocarbon NEDU Chronograph Hands-on Review

What we love: Proper solid built watch overallClasp feel very secure on the wristGAS Tube Lume is sensational at night What we don’t love: Thickness, at 17.3mm some may find this hard to wear under the cuff Some may find the crown guard to be fiddlySome may find the Clasp can dig into the wrist Overall rating: 7.5/10 Value for money: 7.5/10 Wearability: 7/10 Design: 7/10 Build quality: 8.5/10 Once upon a time, if you wanted a mid-priced automatic chronograph, chances are it’ll be powered by the ETA 7750 (or one of its close siblings), and the only choice really was the brand and the style. The movement was so ubiquitous that it was literally everywhere and fitted to almost everything. The dial layout was distinctive, and the rotor wobble was familiar, instantly giving away the engine within. Don’t get me wrong. This wasn’t a bad thing. The movement is a low key high achiever, easily running within COSC specs day in and day out without so much as breaking a sweat. It is a tough, durable, workhorse movement, designed from the beginning as an integrated chronograph, making it very efficient and the “almost 2 days” of power reserve is a testament to that fact. You might scoff at the power reserve but keeping in mind that this movement has been around since the 70s, largely unchanged, and 2 days was the norm for many decades. Plus, if you wear it every day, then it’s really a moot point. The only thing that might generate heated debate is how much value you attac...

WHAT TWEAKS MY TOURB: When a watch loses time… Time+Tide
Seiko VK64 mechaquartz movements Jan 19, 2022

WHAT TWEAKS MY TOURB: When a watch loses time…

Editor’s Note: “What Tweaks my Tourb” is a recurring series where I reveal the things that irk me within my own watch-collecting journey. Previously I touched on clasp sizing, asymmetrical running seconds registers, and Seiko VK64 mechaquartz movements. This week will be arguably my most pathologically nitpicky yet, but then again I suspect a lot of … ContinuedThe post WHAT TWEAKS MY TOURB: When a watch loses time… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Time Trial: The Low-Down on Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight Bronze Revolution
Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight Bronze Jun 29, 2021

Time Trial: The Low-Down on Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight Bronze

Wei Koh gives his initial takes on the new Black Bay Fifty-Eight Bronze, which takes its lead from the first iteration of the Bronze watch, with a brown dial and bezel insert. He walks us through the creation process of the bronze-aluminium alloy they use, also demonstrating the new clasp on the bracelet called T-Fit, which allows the wearer to alter the length by 8mm quickly and without the need for any tools.

Up Close: Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin Skeleton SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin Dec 10, 2020

Up Close: Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin Skeleton

Since its launch in 2016, the Overseas line has been steadily filled out with a variety of models, but the most compelling is probably the perpetual calendar. First unveiled with a solid dial, the Overseas Perpetual Calendar is a large but markedly thin watch that sits strikingly flat on the wrist. With elegant proportions matched by thoughtful design – witness the micro-adjustment clasp for the bracelet – the Overseas perpetual calendar also boasts a high level of finishing for both the case and movement, which happens to be the cal. 1120 descended from the venerable Jaeger-LeCoultre cal. 920. This year Vacheron Constantin went one better with the Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin Skeleton, which is essentially the same thing but with a skilfully open-worked movement. Boasting a tremendous appeal – matched by a very high price – the new perpetual calendar is amongst the best in luxury-sports watches. Admitted it is more luxury than sports, but it is done extremely well. Initial thoughts In its original guise, the Overseas perpetual is already appealing in both style and substance. It sits wide and flat on the wrist, looking elegant in profile while being refined in its case details – all of the polished elements catch the light nicely. But it was costly – not more expensive than other comparable luxury-sports perpetual calendars – but a lot of money still. The skeleton version of the watch is everything the original was, but more so. Just as elegantly ...

IWC Portugieser Chronograph (reference 371609) Review WatchAdvice
IWC Portugieser Chronograph reference 371609 May 20, 2020

IWC Portugieser Chronograph (reference 371609) Review

Introduction Clipping shut the deployant buckle of the just-refreshed IWC Portugieser Chronograph; it’s easy to see why this is one of the brand’s most popular watches, in Australia at least. It’s dressy, but still offers a healthy dose of sports functionality. What makes this new reference, announced back in February, even better the movement beating away inside. For the first time, it’s an IWC-manufactured calibre, and while it can’t be seen on the wrist, or make much of a difference to daily wear, it still feels like a significant step up. The Dial and Hands  The face of the Portugieser Chronograph is refreshingly familiar, thanks to that iconic combination of applied Arabic numerals and leaf (or feuille) shaped hands. The chronograph layout puts a minutes register at the top and a running seconds display at six. I’m more familiar with the white-dialled version of the Portugieser so was happy to give the black a try. And boy, is this dial black. The colour is incredibly deep and dynamic; if you catch it on the right angle, it takes on a blue-ish sheen around the edges. I must say that, because of the dark dial and the slender, highly polished hands and hour markers, legibility was a bit of an issue at times. Still, the overall beauty made me forget about that fact almost immediately.  IWC Portugieser Chronograph Reference 371609 The Case and Strap  At 41mm, this watch is sized just right. The steel case sits well on the wrist, flush and, even though it is...