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Freak Ulysse Nardin

No hands, no dial, no crown - the 2001 haute-horlogerie audacity from Ulysse Nardin.

Ulysse Nardin Really Knows How to Name a Watch. Exhibit A: the Blast Blue & Gold Worn & Wound
Ulysse Nardin Really Knows How Feb 20, 2023

Ulysse Nardin Really Knows How to Name a Watch. Exhibit A: the Blast Blue & Gold

Something I don’t think we discuss often enough are watch names. For people like me who are irredeemably bad at remembering obscure reference numbers, watch names are key. Some brands struggle with this, refusing to come up with interesting or imaginative names for their watches, but tagging them only by whatever slightly unique feature they possess. Other brands let the enthusiast do the work for them. I’m thinking of Seiko here. They don’t actually make a watch called the Sumo, or the Tuna, or the Arnie, but these names and many more have become a universally recognized shorthand. And then there are brands that absolutely nail their watch names. I’d like to submit that Ulysse Nardin is at the top of the heap here. Consider a few of these bangers: Freak, Lemon Shark, Classico Manara, Blast  A little of everything here. We’ve got Italian, we’ve got ocean vibes, we’ve got suggestions of color, and best of all, we have short and punchy. Nobody is forgetting about the Freak (especially after watching our recent breakdown of the mechanics), and Blast? I mean, come on. What could a watch named the Blast possibly look like?  The Blast watches are defined at least in part by their unique three pronged lug arrangement, which essentially makes each and every one an integrated creation. These are large, sometimes ostentatious sports watches that come on straps, frequently feature tourbillons, and have what I think you’d generally describe as a contemporary aest...

Best of 2022: Compelling Complications SJX Watches
Greubel Forsey Dec 25, 2022

Best of 2022: Compelling Complications

Most brands, especially the establishment names, stuck to the evolutionary rather than revolutionary in 2022, which also held true for the latest complications for the year. Nearly all of the year’s most notable complications were derived from past concepts. But the result can still be impressive, as demonstrated by the Ulysse Nardin Freak S. The latest version of a watch that was revolutionary when it was introduced in 2001, the Freak S embodies the ideas that made the original Freak a milestone, including the unorthodox movement construction and the liberal use of intricately-shaped silicon components. But above all it boasts a far more complex regulator that takes the form of twin oscillators connected by a differential. As outlined in our in-depth review, the twin-balance setup was mostly found on classical (and expensive) chronometers from the likes of Greubel Forsey and Philippe Dufour, making the Freak S an outlier with its hyper-modern design. And at US$137,000, it is also more affordable than similar complications from other makers. Standing in stark contrast to the aggressively contemporary styling of the Freak S is the Cartier Masse Mystérieuse. Typical of Cartier with its Roman numerals and ruby cabochon in the crown, the Masse Mystérieuse is inspired by the mystery clocks made by the jeweller in the first half of the 20th century. The result of over eight years of research and development, the Masse Mystérieuse was the final complication devised by C...

GENEVA WATCH DAYS: Ulysse Nardin expand their spectrum with new Rainbow releases Time+Tide
Ulysse Nardin expand their spectrum Sep 1, 2022

GENEVA WATCH DAYS: Ulysse Nardin expand their spectrum with new Rainbow releases

At Geneva Watch Days, Ulysse Nardin is making a multicoloured splash with the introduction of two sporty new models to their Blast and Diver lines. Ulysse Nardin has long been known for their bold, can’t-take-your-eyes-off-them designs (like the avant-garde Freak series), and these new variants are inspired by the iridescent, rainbow-hued appearance of the silicium … ContinuedThe post GENEVA WATCH DAYS: Ulysse Nardin expand their spectrum with new Rainbow releases appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Ochs und Junior Introduces the Calendario Cent’anni SJX Watches
Ulysse Nardin like Apr 23, 2021

Ochs und Junior Introduces the Calendario Cent’anni

Founded by watchmaking genius Ludwig Oechslin, best known for the inventive timepieces he created for Ulysse Nardin like the Freak and Trilogy of Time, Ochs und Junior specialises in brilliantly simple complications that are minimalist, functional, and idiosyncratic in style. Dr Oechslin is best known for his calendar complications, particularly the Perpetual Ludwig he invented for Ulysse Nardin, which remains the centrepiece of his latest wristwatch, the Calendario Cent’anni. Italian for “hundred-year calendar”, the Calendario Cent’Anni (CCA) will indicate the calendar till the end of this century, like most other perpetual calendar watches, but it is executed in Ochs und Junior’s inimitable style. And while the CCA retains the Ochs und Junior look, it will be offered in three fixed variations (each named after a Roman numeral), instead of being endlessly customisable as the first-generation Ochs und Junior perpetual calendar was. From left: CCA III, II and I Initial thoughts Perpetual calendars were once an expensive complication, but the proliferation of mass-produced as well as unconventional, streamlined calendar mechanisms have brought about many affordable perpetual calendars, with the cheapest starting at around US$9,000. But few perpetual calendar watches are as interesting as Dr Oechslin’s invention. While it does cost more than the most affordable perpetuals with a retail price of about US$16,600, the CCA is truly innovative. Dr Oechlin’s perpetu...

Ulysse Nardin Introduces the UFO Table Clock SJX Watches
Ulysse Nardin Introduces Apr 8, 2021

Ulysse Nardin Introduces the UFO Table Clock

Having made a name for itself in the early 20th century for its marine chronometers, Ulysse Nardin revisits its roots with the UFO, an intriguing table clock conceived to mark the brand’s 175th anniversary. Described as a “swinging mechanical depiction of the movement of the waves”, the UFO is as an avant-garde reinterpretation of the marine chronometer. It’s essentially a round-bottomed doll that will wobble and sway but never topple over, except it contains an impressive mechanical movement with a 365-day power reserve. Traditionally known for largely classical designs with the occasional twist, such as the Marine Torpilleur, Ulysse Nardin has been gravitating towards more boldly modern designs in recent years, exemplified by the Blast Tourbillon and the Freak X Silicium Marquetry. That experimental approach is now applied to the table clock in a collaboration with clock specialist L’Epée 1839, the supplier of choice for many watchmakers looking to get into exotic clocks. Initial thoughts Inspired by the oceans, the UFO sways when nudged, but remains upright thanks to a weighted base, creating an engaging display of timekeeping. And the UFO is practical as well, featuring three clock faces that can be set to different time zones, or to mirror each other. Granted, the UFO will have a very niche appeal, considering it’s a table clock with a complex design matched by a high price tag. Costing a whopping US$41,100, the UFO is almost double the price of L’Epé...

Girard-Perregaux Introduces the Free Bridge SJX Watches
Girard-Perregaux Introduces Aug 27, 2020

Girard-Perregaux Introduces the Free Bridge

With its iconic complication being the Tourbillon with Three Gold Bridges – albeit one that is somewhat forgotten today – Girard-Perregaux has created a variety of simpler watches centred on the same concept of prominent movement bridges. The newly-launched Free Bridge is the latest to join the line up, and while it is superficially similar, it boasts an exotic silicon balance wheel (that was probably created with help from its sister company). Initial thoughts The Free Bridge has a modern, technical-looking aesthetic that is currently popular, but it is more than a faddish watch. That’s because it’s equipped with an intricate, extra-large balance wheel made of silicon, one that is far more advanced than everything else at this price point – with the exception of the Ulysse Nardin Freak X. Though not identical, the balance wheel is similar enough to the one in the Freak X that it becomes obvious the Free Bridge balance is derived from that in the Freak X, which is unsurprising since both watch brands are owned by luxury group Kering. The balance wheel makes the movement special from a technical perspective, and also makes the US$17,000 price tag easier to swallow. That said, the Free Bridge seems to sit in no man’s land – it is neither entirely classical nor modern, in contrast to the Freak X which is an out and out contemporary watch. As a result, the Free Bridge isn’t particularly outstanding visually, unlike the Freak X. Upgraded with a new balance The F...

Ochs und Junior Annual Calendar Light Review WatchAdvice
Ulysse Nardin s best-known watches including May 25, 2020

Ochs und Junior Annual Calendar Light Review

Watches are functional items and fashion items.  In the age of “brand loyalty” created by big budget advertising campaigns, product placements, and the use of high-profile brand ambassadors and social influencers, how can you explain a manufacturer with zero branding or logos on any part of any piece in their entire range?  Read on … Ochs und Junior was founded in 2006 in Switzerland.  Their timepieces focus on simplicity instead of complication.  Manufacturing around 130 watches per annum, they are able to offer each customer a personal sales experience and after-sales service directly from the CEO.  They measure their growth in terms of quality, not quantity.  Sales are direct only, and not through distributors or retailers.  Ochs und Junior watches are developed by Dr. Ludwig Oechslin, the man behind some of the most awarded watches of the past 30 years.  He was responsible for a number of Ulysse Nardin’s best-known watches, including the ground-breaking “Trilogy Of Time” astronomical complications, and the original Ulysse Nardin “Freak“.  Oechslin is also the brains behind the amazing Türler astronomical clock (made for the 130 year old eponymous Zurich-based watch and jewellery retailer) which is a 2 metre tall, one ton monster that includes a planetarium and tellurium and even tracks the precession of the equinoxes – a period of 25,772 years.  Oechslin’s passion and drive is in radical and technical mechanical simplification focussing ...

Up Close: Ulysse Nardin Executive Tourbillon Free Wheel SJX Watches
Ulysse Nardin Executive Tourbillon Free Wheel Feb 4, 2020

Up Close: Ulysse Nardin Executive Tourbillon Free Wheel

With the Freak being the undisputed flagship complication of Ulysse Nardin – as well as a historically important watch – many of the brand’s other technical accomplishments often go under the radar. One intriguing offering that hasn’t gotten much attention: the Executive Tourbillon Free Wheel. Despite the somewhat dull name, the Tourbillon Free Wheel is a compelling reinterpretation of a mystery clock – where the mechanics are artfully hidden and exposed for visual effect – that is both fascinating and exotic. The Executive Tourbillon Free Wheel with an aventurine dial While the base model of the Executive collection features a largely conventional, open-worked movement, the Tourbillon Free Wheel takes things a step further by elevating the crucial parts of the movement like the barrel, tourbillon regulator, and gear train for the power reserve. In fact, most of the components are “floating” – the movement boasts a flying tourbillon, a “flying” gear train and power reserve indicator, as well as a “floating” barrel. At the same time, the construction is inverted, with parts that are usually hidden sitting exposed, and vice versa. As a result, the tourbillon and power reserve display appear to operate in isolation, with no obvious connection to the rest of the movement. Floating and flying minimalism While much of the gearing is hidden underneath the dial – which doubles up as the base plate – most of the moving parts are “floating” –...

Interview: Patrick Pruniaux, CEO of Ulysse Nardin SJX Watches
Girard-Perregaux as well Mr Pruniaux has Aug 20, 2019

Interview: Patrick Pruniaux, CEO of Ulysse Nardin

Over the past five years, a new generation of bosses has taken over the watch world. Many share common traits that distinguish them from the preceding generation of chieftains: a charming informality and a nose for courting the next generation of consumers – millennial and otherwise. Patrick Pruniaux is a leading member of his class, who was tapped to run Ulysse Nardin in August 2017. A year later, he was elevated to run Kering’s watch division, which meant taking on leadership of Girard-Perregaux as well. Mr Pruniaux has done a remarkable job of revitalising Ulysse Nardin – not just with fresh marketing, but more crucially with new watches that make sense. He’s streamlined the range of offerings and introduced more accessible watches, with much of his efforts focused on arguably the most important Ulysse Nardin watch of the modern era – the Freak. His strategy for the Freak is notable for being all-encompassing, ranging from aggressively affordable pricing with the Freak X, while pushing hard at the boundaries of material science and engineering, culminating in the Freak NeXt. The Freak X Mr Pruniaux took a surprisingly roundabout way to arrive at one of the top jobs in watchmaking. He started in drinks and spirits at Diageo and then Moët-Hennessey. He then entered the watch business with TAG Heuer, where he rose to lead retail and sales. But the most instructive phase of his watchmaking career, ironically, was at Apple. The computer maker r...

Up Close: Ulysse Nardin Classico Perpetual Ludwig SJX Watches
Ulysse Nardin Classico Perpetual Ludwig Jul 19, 2019

Up Close: Ulysse Nardin Classico Perpetual Ludwig

The original Perpetual Ludwig was launched in 1996 to mark the 150th anniversary of Ulysse Nardin. Its brilliantly conceived calendar mechanism showed the calendar in legible windows, while allowing it to be set backwards and forwards, even around midnight, via the crown – in short, the calendar could be set in any direction, at any time, without the need for any tools. Subsequent iterations of the watch grew progressively bigger – unfortunately many got progressively uglier – but two years ago Ulysse Nardin rolled out the Classico Perpetual Ludwig (alongside other historical remakes), which stuck to the original styling, albeit in a larger case. Powered by the same movement from 1996, the Classico Perpetual Ludwig remains an ingenious innovation despite being over 20 years old, and the new remake also manages to be good value. The UN-33 of the Perpetual Ludwig Ulysse Nardin’s signature blue enamel logo on the crown Ludwig and his wheels The watch gets its name from Ludwig Oechslin, an inventive, self-taught watchmaker whose professional qualifications are in ancient history and archaeology. Working for Ulysse Nardin while it was owned by the late Rolf Schynder, a Swiss entrepreneur who made his fortune making low-cost movements in Asia, Mr Oechslin was responsible for the bulk of the brand’s inventions, from the Freak to the astronomical Trilogy of Time. Mr Oechslin’s fundamental innovation in the Perpetual Ludwig – patents EP1351104B1 and CH6968...

VIDEO: Full speed ahead with Ulysse Nardin’s Marine Chronometer Torpilleur Time+Tide
Ulysse Nardin s Marine Chronometer Torpilleur Aug 6, 2017

VIDEO: Full speed ahead with Ulysse Nardin’s Marine Chronometer Torpilleur

For years, Ulysse Nardin has been something of an insider’s brand with a solid heritage and catalogue boasting some legitimately impressive horology (we’re looking at you, Freak). Their strongest line has, in my opinion, always been the historically inspired Marine collection, based on the brand’s historic marine chronometers which date back to the middle of … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Full speed ahead with Ulysse Nardin’s Marine Chronometer Torpilleur appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The Ulysse Nardin Executive Tourbillon Time+Tide
Ulysse Nardin Executive Tourbillon Oct 28, 2016

INTRODUCING: The Ulysse Nardin Executive Tourbillon

With a penchant for the avant-garde, Ulysse Nardin is a tricky customer to pin down stylistically. They’re most famous for their marine chronometers, but they also produce simple, lean pieces that embody elegance. They also dabble in the upper echelons of haute-horology with their famous Freak as well as models with painstakingly elaborate hand-painted dials. … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Ulysse Nardin Executive Tourbillon appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Ulysse Nardin Baselworld 2013 Collections. Revolution
Ulysse Nardin Baselworld 2013 Collections Unveiling Jun 7, 2013

Ulysse Nardin Baselworld 2013 Collections.

Unveiling the Ulysse Nardin latest novelties and key developments showcased at the Baselworld 2013watch fair. This year proves to be an exciting one for the independent watch brand as it presented 5 new in-house movements in the following timepieces: Skeleton Tourbillon, Stranger – Musical Watch, Marine Chronograph Manufacture, Jade and Freak. Combining watchmaking savoir-faire with breakthrough innovations, the marque […]

Hands-On With The OX Frog300 Shark Skin And Depth Rainbow Fratello
Sep 3, 2024

Hands-On With The OX Frog300 Shark Skin And Depth Rainbow

Tool watches are not only popular but also often uncomplicated and dull from a design point of view. How refreshing it is to see and wear the Frog300 from Oceanix (or OX for short). It has a non-conventional case shape, modern-styled bold hands and indexes, and refreshing colors. Furthermore, it contains an innovative safety feature, […] Visit Hands-On With The OX Frog300 Shark Skin And Depth Rainbow to read the full article.

The Original Frog Watch Leaps In On Monday - Rolex Submariner 16610LV “Kermit” Fratello
Rolex Submariner 16610LV “Kermit” Even Feb 26, 2024

The Original Frog Watch Leaps In On Monday - Rolex Submariner 16610LV “Kermit”

Even when something is objectively better, it could still be subjectively worse. I’m sure you can think of an example, be it cars, hi-fi equipment, boats, or watches, of course. When I had an unexpected encounter with the Rolex Submariner 16610LV “Kermit,” all kinds of thoughts went through my head. Yes, the current “Sub” is […] Visit The Original Frog Watch Leaps In On Monday - Rolex Submariner 16610LV “Kermit” to read the full article.

MB&F; reprises the popular Frog in the HM3 Frog’X’- a 10th anniversary edition of the Frog with Editorial Commentary Deployant
MB&F; Nov 9, 2020

MB&F; reprises the popular Frog in the HM3 Frog’X’- a 10th anniversary edition of the Frog with Editorial Commentary

MB&F; presented the HM3 Frog in 2010, derived from its HM3 series launched a year earlier. “The Frog” shocked the watchmaking world by pushing the limits of three-dimensional horology and would rapidly become one of our most recognised and well-liked Machines. Press Release with commentary in italics. Commentary on the HM3 The HM3 was originallyRead More