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Review: The New H. Moser & Cie. Pioneer Retrograde Seconds
H. Moser & Cie presents the Pioneer Retrograde Seconds, the Swiss brand's first timepiece with a retrograde seconds display.
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SJX Watches
H. Moser & Cie.’s First-Ever Retrograde Seconds
The newly-launched Pioneer Retrograde Seconds is the first wristwatch with the complication from H. Moser & Cie. The retrograde seconds complication was developed by Geneva movement specialist Agenhor, in which Moser acquired a stake not too long ago. The Retrograde Seconds features the sporty Pioneer case and a midnight blue fumé dial with a large, 30-second retrograde counter at six o’clock. Every 30 seconds, the retrograde hand jumps back to the starting point with the help of the double-snail cam, which is visible below an open-worked bridge for the seconds hand. Initial thoughts The Pioneer line is home to many of Moser’s unusual complications, such as the Cylindrical Tourbillon Skeleton and Perpetual Calendar. The Pioneer case is sporty with a 120 m water-resistance rating and vent-like flanks, but not a conventional sports watch like the Streamliner, its more popular sibling with an integrated bracelet. The Retrograde Seconds takes the sportiness a step further with the retrograde counter that resembles an instrument display. The grey-coated scale and bridge of the retrograde seconds fits the overall aesthetic, while also adding contrast to the all-blue dial. Visuals aside, the Retrograde Seconds is a relatively simple yet engaging complication that keeps the watch accessible. Priced at CHF19,900, the Pioneer Retrograde Seconds is one of the most affordable watches in the Moser catalogue. It delivers much that Moser is known for – a minimalist, smoked dial a...
Monochrome
First Look – The New H. Moser & Cie. Pioneer Retrograde Seconds
While the Streamliner has positioned itself as H. Moser’s flagship luxury sports watch, the Pioneer has been fighting its corner since 2015 as the brand’s sportiest, all-terrain, entry-level model. Starting with a Centre Seconds model, the collection escalated in complexity to include a Tourbillon, a Perpetual Calendar and even a skeletonised Cylindrical Tourbillon model. Thanks […]
SJX Watches
Revival-Brand Edouard Koehn Debuts Split-Seconds Chronograph
A dormant name recently revived, Edouard Koehn was once famous for its high-quality pocket watches, usually signed “Ed. Koehn”, one of which inspired the Legacy Rattrapante Split-Seconds Chronograph. Powered by an automatic calibre made by Concepto, the Legacy Rattrapante has a fired enamel dial inside a stainless steel case. Initial thoughts Though it was resurrected only a short while ago, Edouard Koehn has put out a variety of watches, ranging from chunky sports watches to world-timers. The Legacy Rattrapante is its most classical design to date. The styling essentially replicates a vintage pocket watch, so it’s not imaginative, but the functional simplicity is appealing. But because the watch employs a Concepto calibre, it is thick at 14.6 mm high, which is at odds with the vintage-inspired design. And the Legacy Rattrapante is also pricey at almost CHF16,000, or about US$19,000. Though the fired enamel dial is an expensive bonus, it still costs double the Habring² Doppel, which has a more sophisticated movement for almost half the price. Pocket watch style Born in Germany, Edouard Koehn (1839-1908) was a watchmaker who worked at Patek Philippe before establishing his own brand in Geneva that produced watches signed “Ed. Koehn” as well as under the brand name, H.R. Ekegren, a Danish brand he acquired. Koehn’s son, also named Edouard, inherited the firm, which went bust during the Great Depression. Several years ago, the Edouard Koehn trademark was acquir...
SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Returns to Forged Carbon with the Royal Oak Concept Split-Seconds
Having pioneered the use of carbon-fibre reinforced polymer for watches cases with the Royal Oak Offshore Alinghi Team of 2007, Audemars Piguet (AP) is returning with a new generation of the material that debuts in the Royal Oak Concept Split-Seconds Chronograph GMT. Based on the original model in old-school titanium, the new split-seconds chronograph has a carbon composite case made using Chroma Forged Technology (CFT) that allows for greater colour and patterning in the material. As a result, the CFT carbon case has the typical marbled appearance of carbon composite, but flecked with blue veins that glow in the dark. Initial thoughts The Royal Oak Concept Split-Seconds Chronograph GMT might seem like yet another variant of AP’s popular model, but it is equipped with one of the brand’s latest movements, the cal. 4407. The movement boasts a modern, sophisticated construction, along with one of the most innovative implementations of the split-seconds mechanism in modern watchmaking. The CFT carbon case dresses up the movement in more eye-catching attire, especially for those who found the first version in titanium too conventional. Although the new split-seconds only includes blue as an accent, the range of colours is essentially limitless since CFT carbon can be coloured in myriad hues. That means more colour variations are surely in the pipeline. Though novel for AP, coloured or luminous carbon composite is not a new concept since the material been used for watch ca...
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GONE IN 60 SECONDS - Jaeger-LeCoultre Geophysic True Second
Time+Tide
Moritz Grossmann Central Seconds x Oliver Smith Jeweler Limited Edition debuts at Watch Week Aspen
Watch Week Aspen is not only a new home for engaging horological events, but also a new Moritz Grossmann Central Seconds Limited Edition.The post Moritz Grossmann Central Seconds x Oliver Smith Jeweler Limited Edition debuts at Watch Week Aspen appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
The Raymond Weil Millesime Small Seconds Denim brings a pinch of the ’30s to the jeans and t-shirt crowd
The GPHG-winning Millesime Small Seconds gets a blue jean baby makeover.The post The Raymond Weil Millesime Small Seconds Denim brings a pinch of the ’30s to the jeans and t-shirt crowd appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
Introducing: The New Orient Bambino 38 Small Seconds
At the end of last year, I went hands-on with the colorful new versions of the Orient Bambino 38. I was surprised by how much value these watches packed for their very affordable price. The Fratelli in the comments were also impressed. Now the Japanese brand is introducing a more formal Bambino 38. Its four […] Visit Introducing: The New Orient Bambino 38 Small Seconds to read the full article.
Fratello
Introducing: The Updated H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Centre Seconds Matrix Green And Purple Haze
Four years ago, H. Moser & Cie. gave the watch world the Streamliner Centre Seconds Matrix Green. The watch became a fan favorite and earned the nickname “Green Dragon.” Since 2024 is the Year of the Dragon in Chinese astrology, the return of the “Green Dragon” is hardly a surprise. The fact that the illustrious […] Visit Introducing: The Updated H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Centre Seconds Matrix Green And Purple Haze to read the full article.
Fratello
Hands-On With The Citizen Super Titanium Automatic Small Seconds
This hands-on is a classic case of “save the best for last.” One week ago, we published my hands-on review of the Citizen Super Titanium Eco-Drive Day-Date and Chronograph series. The third set of models we had in for review was the Citizen Super Titanium Automatic Small Seconds. After trying the three different model series, […] Visit Hands-On With The Citizen Super Titanium Automatic Small Seconds to read the full article.
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First Take: The Omega Seamaster 1948 Small Seconds
SJX Watches
Orient Introduces the Bambino 38 Small Seconds
A budget-friendly dress watch, the Orient Bambino is robust and usually priced well below US$300, making it a good option for the entry-level or budget-minded watch enthusiast. Now, the Japanese watch brand added the Bambino 38 “Small Seconds” to the range. Offered in steel or a gold-plated finish, the new Bambino combines a compact case with a retro-style dial featuring a sub-seconds at six and Roman numerals. Initial thoughts The Bambino in its many variants is a compelling value proposition, marrying good quality with an attractive design. It’s the Orient equivalent of the Seiko 5. The model’s past designs have been a mixed bag, while the new Small Seconds is a more cohesive design. The latest iterations, particularly the silver dial, evoke 1930s watches with the railroad minute track and alternating baton-and-Roman markers. However, as is sometimes the case with vintage-inspired designs, this would benefit from revamping of the date, which is practical but gets in the way of the design. Aside from the cosmetic enhancements, the Bambino 38 Small Seconds retains the same in-house calibre as its predecessors, a no-frills movement that isn’t pretty but adequate given the model’s affordability. Retailing for US$344 for the steel models and a $24 hike for the gold-plated version, these remain commendable value propositions. A vintage-inspired dress watch The latest addition to the Bambino collection incorporates many elements from the existing models. It inhe...
Hodinkee
Video: Up Close With The New TAG Heuer Monaco Split-Seconds Chronograph
A video look inside the creation of the brand's first (ever) split-seconds chronograph wristwatch.
SJX Watches
Hands On: TAG Heuer Monaco Split-Seconds for Only Watch 2024
An ambitious evolution of its signature square-cased chronograph, the Monaco Split-Seconds was first revealed as a unique piece for Only Watch. Although the regular production version was launched earlier this year, the one-off example made for Only Watch remains unique for the finishing on the case and movement. Initial thoughts Powered by a sophisticated Vaucher calibre, the Monaco rattrapante is mostly made of titanium – the alloy is used for the case and movement – and a deft evolution of the Monaco case. On the wrist, the watch feels good as it is noticeably lightweight despite being quite large. The case design is evidently derived from the original but smartly reworked to give it a more pronounced, stylised form. Details like the facetted sapphire crystals and oversized pushers complement the styling. Overall, the aesthetic is the hyper-mechanical look of the same school as Richard Mille and Hublot, but here executed to a high level thanks to the Vaucher calibre that’s hand finished. The only element of the design I would do away with is the “X” bridge on the dial, which feels like an affectation that doesn’t really do much for the design. But overall the aesthetic is cohesive and appealing. Importantly, the watch acquits itself well up close. The finishing on the titanium bridges and plates of the movement is particularly impressively, given the difficulty of achieving a mirror polish on the alloy. And because the Vaucher calibre is a high-end construct...
Quill & Pad
Petermann Bédat Reference 2941 Split-Seconds Chronograph: Best Chronograph at the 2023 GPHG
Independent brand Petermann Bédat launched its second timepiece, the Reference 2941 Split-Seconds Chronograph in 2023 and it took that years GPHG prize for best chronograph. Joshua Munchow takes a deep dive into what makes it so special.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Citizen Super-Titanium Small Seconds NJ0180 Series
An introduction to the Citizen Super-Titanium Small Seconds watch with its familiar "Tsuyosa" design, new dial colors, and a titanium case.
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Worn & Wound
TAG Heuer’s Wild New Monaco Split-Seconds Chronograph
If the narrative around Watches & Wonders 2024 is a slate of subdued, iterative watches that are somewhat short on the “wonders,” a take that has been forming even before the beginning of the show, counterpoints will inevitably be offered in the discourse. This year’s flashiest release from TAG Heuer, the Monaco Split-Seconds Chronograph, is perhaps the most compelling piece of evidence that some brands, even the absolute largest among them, are still trying to wow us. It’s a big, bold reminder that the “AG” in TAG stands for avant-garde, and after a year spent focusing on one of the best consumer products the brand has released in years in their Glassbox line of Carreras, it points toward their other key strength. TAG is showcasing the Monaco Split-Seconds Chronograph as the next stage in a long line of precision chronographs, going back a more than a century, beginning with the legendary Mikrograph in 1916, a stopwatch used in Olympic timekeeping in the 1920s and 1930s that was capable of recording timing intervals to the 1/100th of a second. This watch was followed by the Microsplit, which could do the same, but with the addition of rattrapante functionality. Heuer continued to produce iconic chronographs and stopwatches throughout the 1960s, always making the most of the watchmaking technology available. That includes quartz timekeeping, with the introduction of a battery powered split-second chronograph worn by some of the most recognizable names in moto...
SJX Watches
TAG Heuer Introduces the Monaco Split Seconds Chronograph
TAG Heuer’s flagship launch at Watches & Wonders 2024 is the Monaco Split Seconds Chronograph, the brand’s first-ever mechanical split-seconds chronograph wristwatch. Initially launched as a piece unique for the postponed 2023 edition of Only Watch, the Monaco Split Seconds now enters regular production in red and blue liveries. Titanium inside and out with an integrated movement developed by Vaucher – the movement bridges and plates are titanium – the Monaco Split Seconds is a premium product with a premium price that puts the brand in the haute horlogerie segment, which also communicates a mixed message given the brand’s focus on affordable chronographs. Initial thoughts While sports timekeeping is core to TAG Heuer’s DNA, the brand’s only wrist-worn split seconds chronographs to date were of the quartz and digital variety. And given the delayed sale of the Only Watch example, the Monaco Split Seconds will be TAG Heuer’s first mechanical split-seconds chronograph sold publicly, enhancing the collector appeal. One of the most iconic square watches in history – and probably the only recognisable sports chronograph with a form case – the Monaco has proven adaptable to both retro and futuristic designs over the years; the Split Seconds is of course the latter. While I find the overall styling a bit over the top, especially the X-shaped braces that form part of the dial, I can’t help but admire many of the details, such as the stepped box sapphire crysta...
Hodinkee
Found: A Rare Patek Philippe Split-Seconds Single-Button Chronograph Formerly Belonging To Famed Racer Henry Segrave And Amelia Earhart To Be Auctioned In Monaco
Patek Philippe single-button split-seconds chronographs from this era are basically impossible to find – one with this provenance might be a once-in-a-lifetime chance.
Time+Tide
Studio Underd0g’s first British ‘Hand Delivered’ pizza party had watch fans asking for seconds
Our pizza party in Melbourne was a hit - and Richard's pizza party in Leeds was just as tasty.The post Studio Underd0g’s first British ‘Hand Delivered’ pizza party had watch fans asking for seconds appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
H. Moser & Cie. Endeavour Tourbillon Concept and Centre Seconds Vantablack
H. Moser & Cie.'s Endeavour Tourbillon Concept Vantablack and Endeavour Centre Seconds Vantablack revisit the manufacturer's darker-than-dark dialThe post H. Moser & Cie. Endeavour Tourbillon Concept and Centre Seconds Vantablack appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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GONE IN 60 SECONDS - Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra 150M Review
SJX Watches
In-Depth: Petermann Bédat Reference 2941 Split-Seconds Chronograph
Having made its debut in 2020 with the 1967 deadbeat seconds, Petermann Bédat recently unveiled its second watch, the Reference 2941 Split-Seconds Chronograph. The 2941 lives up to the benchmark established by its predecessor with a traditionally-styled movement that is decorated to an impressive degree, albeit one that reflects constraints in its development. The brand’s founders, Gaël Petermann and Florian Bédat, are both watchmakers in their early 30s who studied watchmaking in Geneva before a stint at A. Lange & Söhne. The pair also spent time carrying out restorations of vintage watches. Their shared experience is illustrated in the 2941, most notably in the traditional decoration and styling of the movement. Initial thoughts When Petermann Bédat made its debut in 2020 with the 1967, a time-only with deadbeat seconds, independent watchmaking was a much less crowded space. As a result, the 1967 stood out for both its intrinsic qualities, namely excellent finishing and traditional mechanics, but also the fact that it was fairly novel. Now time-only watches with seemingly good finishing seem to be everywhere, most of which are even similar to the Petermann Bédat profile in having founders in the their 30s and 40s. So Petermann Bédat did well in introducing a following up with something more complicated for its second model. The 2941 continues with the aesthetics of the 1967, essentially a modernised “sector” dial, and also the movement finishing. The quality...
SJX Watches
TAG Heuer Introduces the Monaco Split-Seconds Chronograph for Only Watch
Continuing from the unique piece made for the previous edition of Only Watch, TAG Heuer again experiments with its racing model for the upcoming charity auction. The Monaco Split-Seconds Chronograph for Only Watch is the brand’s first-ever mechanical split-seconds chronograph, and channels strong avant-garde styling. Initial thoughts Finally adding a mechanical split second chronograph to the brand’s capabilities is a significant step for a TAG Heuer, who stand on their history of producing sporting chronographs. In contrast to the Monaco Carbon from 2021, the watch exhibits a significantly bolder aesthetic, aligning more closely with what one would expect from Richard Mille. However, unlike its counterpart, TAG Heuer’s approach to skeletonisation is tastefully restrained, focusing on a minimalist display rather than an overtly flashy appearance. One potential drawback of this release is the auction estimate, which ranges from CHF150,000 to CHF300,000. The inclusion of the new calibre and the utilisation of premium materials can justify the higher price. However, it is worth noting that the price point is consistent with what last year’s model achieved, which was CHF290,000, despite only having an estimate of between CHF50,000 to CHF100,000. The winning bidder of this watch will also get a VIP experience of the Monaco Grand Prix next year, with access to the TAG Heuer hospitality suite, among other experiences over the weekend. Avant-garde design Expertly mergi...
Quill & Pad
Petermann Bédat Reference 2941 Split-Seconds Chronograph: Second Time Around Never Looked Better
Young independent brand Petermann Bédat has launched its second timepiece, the Reference 2941 Split-Seconds Chronograph, after its successful first model, the 1967 Deadbeat Seconds. And in Joshua Munchow's opinion, the brand is getting better with each release.
Deployant
New: H. Moser Smoked Salmon Infused Streamliner Center Seconds
Read a detailed review of the H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Centre Seconds Smoked Salmon watch, featuring a cushion-shaped steel case, a fumé dial, and an in-house automatic movement with a 3-day power reserve. This vintage-inspired special edition watch comes with an integrated steel bracelet and is water resistant to 12 ATM.
Time+Tide
The Moser Streamliner Centre Seconds Smoked Salmon is even prettier in pink
Smoked salmon is something I always try and have in my fridge. Back in my 1980s childhood in the UK, smoked salmon had quite a luxurious status – it only got airings in our house on special occasions like Christmas or when we had notable visitors (like my gran). These days, however, it’s no longer … ContinuedThe post The Moser Streamliner Centre Seconds Smoked Salmon is even prettier in pink appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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