203 articles found · page 6 of 7
Quill & Pad
The Hermès Arceau Petite Lune Jeté de Diamants et Saphirs adds a fanciful and whimsical slant to the Arceau Petite Lune, which is just begging for some fun. This new version utilizes a mother-of-pearl dial and date subdial adorned by 65 blue sapphires and 58 tiny diamonds. It's a Goldilocks splash of flash, not too much and not too little. Time to fall in love!
Time+Tide
Editor’s note: How did Hermès not only survive, but manage to thrive after resisting a takeover bid from LVMH? This story tells the tale. And leaves out what might be the best bit for us, as watch lovers. Which is Hermès’ ongoing ascendancy in watchmaking. Who could forget the extraordinary Arceau L’heure de la lune … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: How Hermès got away from LVMH – and thrived appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
The new Hermès de la lune watch offers a unique vision of Earth’s satellite with the simultaneous display of moon phases in both northern and southern hemispheres. Two mobile counters gravitate on a lapis lazuli dial, revealing mother-of-pearl moons in step with an exclusive module, coupled with a Manufacture Hermès movement.
Revolution
A horse-shaped cut-out in unique piece Arceau Lift Tourbillon Répétition Minutes gives us a glimpse into Hermès’ latest high complication movement.
SJX Watches
Hermès introduced its first tourbillon, the Arceau Lift, in 2013, an early indication of the leather goods maker’s ambitions in technically-oriented watchmaking. The intertwined, double “H” tourbillon cage was modelled the wrought-iron door of the elevator in the Hermes’ fabled store in Paris at 24, Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré, hence the name. Seven years later, the Arceau Lift has been upgraded to incorporate a minute repeater. The Arceau Lift Tourbillon Répétition Minutes is being produced in just two examples – each unique – in pink and white gold respectively. Initial thoughts While combining two “high” complications is impressive, the whimsical house style of Hermes is what stands out at first glance. Elements like the asymmetric watch case and open dial are simple quite quickly identifiable as Hermes. More subtle is the dial, which is surprisingly discreet until you spot it. It’s cleverly designed to incorporate the brand’s familiar horse-head motif that takes the form of a cut-out that serves to show off the racks and snail cams of the minute repeating mechanism. The H1924 movement within is high quality in both finish and construction, and also incorporates the equestrian theme with a barrel bridge shaped like twin horse heads. But it is produced by Manufacture Haute Complications (MHC), a respected but struggling Geneva-based movement specialist that has supplied the same calibre to H. Moser & Cie., Dolce & Gabbana, and Artya. So while ...
Quill & Pad
For the Hermès Arceau Harnais Français Remix, Hermès’ watch designers found inspiration in a pair of beautifully harnessed horses that formed the centerpiece of a silk scarf designed by Hugo Grykar, who served as the brand's in-house designer from the 1940s until 1959. The dial is engraved Limoges porcelain painstakingly decorated with colorful oven-fired enamel. And the result is a wearable work of art!
Quill & Pad
The 2020 Hermès Slim d’Hermès GMT features two subdials: one for the date at 6 o’clock and one for the home time shown using the brand’s own “escaped numerals” at 9 o’clock. There is also a night-and-day indication for local and home times (L and H). And good news: unlike the original palladium-encased Slim d'Hermès GMT, this gorgeous new release is not limited.
Deployant
Presenting the Hermès novelties for 2020. The new watches are mainly refreshes of many of the highly successful collections from previous years.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Never have I seen intricate horological skill utilized so perfectly to replicate what a cheap wall clock looks like after 5 glasses of wine.
Quill & Pad
The Hermès Arceau Cheval Cosmique comes in two limited-edition designs and derives from the Cheval Cosmique design found on other Hermès objects. Both prominently feature the hand-engraved white gold cosmic horse, which takes the artisan almost a week to complete, and artist Gianpaolo Pagni's signature squiggles. For Joshua Munchow it's all about the art and the contrasts.
Revolution
The modern Slim d’Hermès adds a GMT function, while keeping its ultra-thin profile.
Revolution
These watches all tie in with Hermès’ theme for the year, “Innovation in Time”.
Hodinkee
These watches give "otherworldly" a whole new meaning.
Hodinkee
Did someone say gold?
Quill & Pad
As just about every watch event has been canceled because of the coronavirus pandemic, Elizabeth Doerr highlights five new watches for women here that we would have seen for the first time at Watches & Wonders 2020.
Hodinkee
A transparent take on one of the house's most iconic watches.
Quill & Pad
Early American historian and Harvard professor Laurel Thatcher Ulrich titled her 2008 book 'Well-Behaved Women Seldom Make History.' Ulrich would probably be very interested to know about three famous Swiss and French brands whose very first wristwatches were made for – and in a way by – women. Their watches have made history as some of the first examples of wristwatches in history, too.
Quill & Pad
One of Joshua Munchow's favorite watches from 2019, winning the Calendar and Astronomy prize at the 2019 Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève, was the Hermès Arceau L'Heure de la Lune. Not only is it a stunning double moon phase watch with wandering dials, but also features an incredible module designed by Jean-François Mojon and his team at Chronode. Take a deep drive into it here with Joshua.
Revolution
Hermès presents two new models that sing elegance with an infusion of new technology.
Quill & Pad
Martin Green doesn't like skeleton watches despite adoring the craftsmanship that goes into making them because he isn't fond of seeing a stunning movement with a backdrop of skin and pressed hair. Hermès solved that problem with the Arceau Squelette, which showcases the beauty of the movement without any "hairy" backdrop by using a "smokescreen."
Quill & Pad
A horological detox means going back to simplicity. Just the basics: time-only, preferably in a stainless steel case and fitted with a strap, not overly thick or large, and dial functional in design. These are not attention-grabbing watches, but the perfect choice to start the new year with.
SJX Watches
The often quirky or abstract equestrian themes Hermès applies to its watches recently received an unusual twist: its newest pair of timepieces feature dials decorated in ikat, a traditional dyeing and weaving technique usually associated with Indonesian textiles. Characterised by individually dyed yarns and slightly fuzzy motifs, ikat has been given a touch of gold – literally – in the Slim d’Hermès Cheval Ikat. Combining the traditional art with modern technology, the dial is decorated with tiny threads, each the third the width of a human hair – some 1,165 of them in total. Each thread is secured on the dial at two points, creating a network of linear, perpendicular threads crisscrossing the dial that form a prancing horse. The ends of each thread sit in a laser-cut divot on the dial that’s been filled with a drop of 24k gold, which secures the thread while giving the dial a metallic glint. Offered in two variants – in white or rose gold with dark or light dials respectively – the Cheval Ikat is powered by the H1950, an extra-thin calibre with a micro-rotor made by Vaucher, a movement specialist part owned by Hermes that is probably best known for supplying movements to Richard Mille. Key facts and price Slim d’Hermès Cheval Ikat Diameter: 39.5mm Material: 18k white or rose gold Water-resistance: 30m Movement: H1950 Functions: Hours and minutes Winding: Automatic Frequency: 21,600 beats per hour (3Hz) Power reserve: 42 hours Strap: Alligator L...
Deployant
Hermès releases the new Slim D’Hermès Cheval Ikat featuring the ancient Asian art of making textile known as Ikat. The motif of a horse adorns the dial.
SJX Watches
In its usual tasteful yet quirky style, Hermès has unveiled a pair of wristwatches featuring dials decorated in wood marquetry, tiny pieces of exotic woods assembled like a puzzle to form striking, abstract motifs; last year Hermes did the same in leather. Created by a young French marquetry artist, the dials start with a line drawing on tracing paper, which is then digitised and scaled down to the size of the dial. The reduced drawing is then printed out and cut into its component parts with a scalpel, forming the pattern for cutting. Each piece is then glued to a thin slice of exotic wood that is then cut with a small electric fret saw. The resulting bits of wood are then assembled with a tweezer, and occasional gentle hammering, before the dials are sanded and varnished, making them seem like an unbroken whole. Monochromatic yet intriguing enough to make you look twice, the Arceau Astrologie Nouvelle reproduces the pattern from the silk scarf of the same name. The original Astrologie scarf featured a classical star chart, but in 2012 designer Cyrille Diatkine reinterpreted the motif – nouvelle is French for “new” – breaking it up into alternating and inverted segments. The Astrologie Nouvelle motif has been recreated using tulipwood, a wood that can vary in colour from white to dark blue according to Hermès, resulting in the contrasting colours of the dial. Its case is 41mm and 18k white gold, containing the H1837 automatic made by Vaucher, a movement maker...
Quill & Pad
Miniature wood marquetry is not only rare, it is fascinating. And thanks to our friends at The Watches TV, who recently visited Olivier Varenne in Paris, we are able to watch as an artisan demonstrates creating miniature wood marquetry dials for rare Hermès artistic craft watches.
SJX Watches
Hermès, as a brand, usually has an elegant, light and sometimes whimsical house style that makes it unique amongst luxury houses. The Arceau L’Heure De La Lune unveiled at SIHH at the start of the year exemplifies the house style, although the case is thicker than ideal. Functionally, the Arceau L’Heure De La Lune is a straightforward watch – it shows the time, date and phases of the Moon in both the Southern and Northern hemispheres. But the execution of the time and date is striking and clever. Orbital moon phases The two are essentially orbital displays, as each is on a sub-dial mounted on a rotating, central carousel. The carousel take 59 days to make one complete revolution around the dial. But each sub-dial also rotates on itself as the carousel turns. As a result, each sub-dial is always the right way up regardless of its position. Both sub-dials also double up as the moon phase indicator, with position of each sub-dial indicating the age of the Moon in each hemisphere. And in a bit of whimsy, the hemispheres have been inverted, with the Southern on top and Northern below. The Arceau L’Heure De La Lune with a meteorite dial The inventive display was built by Chronode, the complications specialist founded by Jean-Francois Mojon, which has a diverse body of work that includes Urban Jurgensen’s P4 movement, the MB&F; LM2, and the constant force tourbillon of IWC. The display module by Chronode. Photo – Hermes Chronode conceived and builds the ...
Deployant
A man’s take at a very feminine watch - the new Galop d’Hermès. A brief discourse on the design and the feelings it evokes on a feminine wrist.
SJX Watches
Apple’s introduction of its latest watch includes the Apple Watch Hermès Series 5, essentially the smartwatch plus an Hermes leather strap and watch faces exclusive to the Hermes edition. Amongst other incremental improvements, the new Apple Watch has an “always-on” face that dims when you turn away, instead of going dark as on the previous generation of the watch – and it’s achieved without comprising the 18-hour battery life. And the standard Series 5 is also available in a variety of case materials, including the usual steel or aluminium, as well as ceramic for the more upscale versions. For the first time, brushed titanium is also a case option. The Single Tour strap with the Della Cavalleria motif on the lower half of the strap The luxury of Apple Watch Hermès Series 5, on the other hand, is dictated only in two case styles: Space Black and polished steel, each in either 40mm or 44mm sizes. The 40mm cases are available either with a standard length, “Single Tour” strap, or an extra-long “Double Tour” strap. Both styles of straps are a combination of colours – a solid shade and a printed motif taken from the Hermes “Della Cavalleria” scarf. Double Tour The Space Black is actually a steel with a black coating, and it’s matched with a sleek, all-black dial and matte black strap for a sleek look that is very much unlike the usual smartwatch. Price and availability The Apple Watch Hermès Series 5 with Single Tour strap is priced at ...
Time+Tide
There’s an inherent romance in all mechanical wristwatches - a romance drawn largely from the fact that these painstakingly created devices are fundamentally anachronistic machines that have been superseded several times over. Yet, still they manage to survive and, indeed, thrive. And it might just be me, but this romance factor is more present than … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Hermès Arceau L’heure de la lune appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Editor’s note: OK, so ‘fight’ might be a touch hyperbolic, but back when the Hermès Slim d’Hermès was first released it caused quite a stir. The most ardent fans were Ceri and Felix, and this is an account of their slightly tête-à-tête over this elegant, well-designed watch … The story in a second With a slender … ContinuedThe post That time we got into a fight over Hermès appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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