Results for Mainspring Types and Alloys

New Release: Czapek Faubourg de Cracovie Crossroads Chronograph: Deep Blue and Secret Alloy

Czapek developed a new guilloché pattern called "Crossroads," which features straighter, widely spaced lines reminiscent of tire treads. And they are featured to full effect in the Faubourg de Cracovie Crossroads chronographs.

Ressence Introduces An Updated Type 3 In Both Black And White Plus A Unique Type 1 Squared

Believe it or not, it has already been 11 years since Ressence introduced its oil-filled Type 3. At the time, it was the first oil-filled mechanical watch, and it debuted in both white- and black-dial versions. Today, the Belgian brand led by designer Benoît Mintiens reintroduces the black and white Type 3 with a few […] Visit Ressence Introduces An Updated Type 3 In Both Black And White Plus A Unique Type 1 Squared to read the full article.

Breguet Introduces the Type XX in Rose Gold and Ceramic

Having launched the latest-generation Type XX last year, Breguet is adding to the family with the Type XX Chronograph 2067 in rose gold, a new take on the “civilian” aviator’s chronograph. Inspired by a historical design, the latest Type XX features the a 12-hour bezel and three registers, along with a sophisticated, high-frequency chronograph movement. The cal. 728 Initial thoughts While the new Type XX is described by Breguet as being inspired by the vintage Type XX no. 1780 – one of just three vintage Type 20s in gold – it is an entirely modern watch in look and feel. The vintage inspiration is visible,  but the colours, materials, and finishing bestow a polished, modern look, which is a good thing. This contrasts with last year’s Type XX in steel that tried too hard to look vintage with faux-aged lume and lance-shaped hands, which was at odds with the overall look and feel. The new Type XX, on the other hand, looks coherently contemporary. With a dial and hands resembling that of the 1990s-era Type XX, the new chronograph also looks more proportional and balanced, though it retains the same dimensions as last year’s model. Interestingly, though the new Type XX has the date window in exactly the same place as last year’s watch, the date does not look as obvious here. Priced at US$37,900, the new Type XX 2067 is more affordable than the competition. The Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 chronograph in pink gold, for example, retails for US$49,700. Admittedly, t...

Hong Kong Clock and Watch Fair: A Party with Benefits, plus a Typhoon!

Unlike the niche-like fairs in Geneva, the Hong Kong Clock and Watch Fair (HKCWF) located in the world’s second largest watch exporter after Switzerland, drives the energy to the next level. It focuses not only on watches of all types, from mechanicals to smart, but also on components, fashion, trade and commerce. Marton Radkai reports his impressions of the fair.

A Red Jaguar E-Type, One-Day Trips To New York On Concorde, And Other Fun Facts About Armin Strom

After talking to Serge Michel and Claude Greisler, the two co-founders of the watch brand Armin Strom, it became apparent that they do things differently at their manufacture in the Swiss watchmaking town of Biel/Bienne. Ask them anything, and the two childhood friends who started a watch brand inspired by the open-worked creations of famous […] Visit A Red Jaguar E-Type, One-Day Trips To New York On Concorde, And Other Fun Facts About Armin Strom to read the full article.

The Difference Between Type A and Type B Pilot Watch Dials

The post The Difference Between Type A and Type B Pilot Watch Dials appeared first on Worn & Wound.

Airain and Seconde/Seconde/ Team Up for a Surprisingly Whimsical Take on the Type 20

Montres Airain began in 1934 and quickly became well known for producing reliable, high-quality timepieces. During the 1950s and 1960s, they were among the chosen suppliers of the Type 20 Chronograph for the French Army, alongside Breguet and Dodane. In 2020, Airain was revived after being purchased from a French entrepreneur and watch enthusiast. The brand has been thriving ever since with a string of aviation inspired releases, starting with their new version of the highly sought-after “Type 20” Flyback Chronograph. New for 2024, in a surprise collaboration, Airain has teamed up seconde/seconde/ to add a touch of whimsy to the austere Type 20 design. The new Airain Type 20 x seconde/seconde/ “Up in the Air” limited edition is based on the original Flyback Chronograph design. Romaric André, the designer otherwise known as seconde/seconde/, envisioned bringing back this iconic piece to its rightful place in the sky and in France. Hence, the subdials create the illusion of airplane portholes looking out on pixelated 8-bit clouds, with the left subdial offering a glimpse of the tip of the Eiffel Tower. He explains his intentions on the case back, and the inclusion of the Eiffel Tower serves as a reminder of the watch’s heritage and its connection to French aviation. This flyback chronograph’s stainless steel case measures 39mm in diameter (39.5mm across the bezel), 14.77mm to the top of the double-domed sapphire crystal, and 47.7mm from lug tip to lug tip. The c...

Explained: Barrels, Mainsprings, and the Trade-off Between Power Reserve and Energy

Every mechanical watch employs at least one mainspring barrel as its energy source. When a watch is wound, the coils of the mainspring tighten, storing potential energy which is then slowly released through the gear train to the escapement. The mainspring is enclosed in a toothed barrel, essentially a drum covered by gear teeth. As a result the barrel is often considered to be the first wheel of the going train.  Although one is the norm, two or even more barrels can be employed, typically to generate more energy. Double barrel movements usually feature two mainsprings kinematically linked in one of two ways: in parallel or in series. The number of mainsprings, energy stored, and power reserve are illustrated with equations (1), (2), and (3): As described by equation (1), the energy of a single barrel E is a function of its torque, angular discharge velocity and running time (autonomy). Linking two identical barrels naturally means having twice the energy, so 2E. By convenient association, equation (2) exploits the available energy to double the torque sent to the gear train, while equation (3) takes advantage of the total energy by doubling the running time.  Parallel barrels The parallel arrangement of barrels embodies equation (2), which delivers twice the torque, increasing the energy available to run the movement (but not increasing the running time). Here two barrels unwind at the same time on a centre pinion connected to a second mobile of the going train. An embo...

Hands-On: Understanding The New Breguet Type XX And Type 20

Digging into the details, date window and all, to understand the design decisions and what the future might hold for the latest from an iconic line of pilot's watches.

How time shaped the Type 20 chronograph, and the brands that keep the legend alive

Watches and military history have an unbreakable bond. You only need to think back to the very beginnings of the wristwatch as a tool. During the Anglo-Burma War and First Boer War, soldiers began to strap pocket watch cases with primitive soldered lugs to their wrists, which opened the door for a new market. Fast-forward … ContinuedThe post How time shaped the Type 20 chronograph, and the brands that keep the legend alive appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Watches, Stories, & Gear: Getting Shifty with the 2024 Acura Integra Type S, The Slick and Affordable FALCAM Maglink Camera Strap, New LEGO Technic Model Worthy of Le Mans, & Playing with FYRE All Over Again

“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear. Share your story ideas or interesting finds with us by emailing tcalara@wornandwound.com Header Image Via: Acura The 2024 Acura Integra Type S Lives Up To The Shifty Hatchback’s Name Via Car and Driver When Acura came bursting onto the automotive scene in 1986, it did so by simultaneously debuting the Integra, a shifty compact hatchback highlighted by its athletic styling and signature pop-up headlight design. Most of us in the office and car enthusiasts alike however, can specifically identify with a particular Integra, one that ushered in a new era of performance in ’97 with the third-generation of their sports hatchback and a cult-classic; the Integra Type-R. The Type-R would go on to create its own legend, dominating the podiums time and time again at the SCCA World Challenge Touring Car Championship. Via Car and Driver When Acura reintroduced the Acura Integra this year, it fell hard and flat amongst the enthusiast crowd. A common problem nowadays with all automotive brands reviving older models, the new base model Integra looked like your average sedan on the road and was absent of any wow-factor when it came to its performance and aesthetic. That’s not the...

Hey, HODINKEE!: Odd Vs. Even (Lug Widths), Pilot Vs. Field, Mainsprings Vs. Time, And Co-Branding Vs. Everybody

"We have met the enemy and he is us." -Walt Kelly, Pogo

Introducing: The Bremont Supermarine Type 300 and Type 301, Smaller Dive Watches With Some Vintage Inspiration

Back in 2010, Bremont introduced the Supermarine 500, which introduced a fresh take on a pretty well-trod path: the dive watch. Its unique crown guard, sapphire bezel, signature Bremont three-piece "Trip-Tick" case, and overall styling set it apart from the pack. It quickly became a favorite of dive watch lovers. Then, in 2014, came the Supermarine 2000, which quadrupled the water resistance, introduced the anti-magnetic and anti-shock properties of Bremont’s MB watches, and beefed up the case from 43mm to 45mm. But for many, 45mm, or even 43mm, is too large for a watch, even a diver. So at last week’s "Basel-upon-Thames" event in London, Bremont released new additions to the Supermarine lineup – the Type 300 and Type 301 – both with an all-new 40-millimeter case.

Type Casting: Comparing The Breguet Type XX And Type XXI Chronographs

The Type XX and Type XXI chronographs don’t seem to get quite as much attention as you would think they’d get, at least in the USA, where the world of pilot’s chronographs skews much more heavily towards companies like IWC, Omega, and Breitling. Maybe part of the reason for that is that when you think of tool watches, you might think of an awful lot of companies but Breguet just isn’t one of them – tourbillons, certainly, and a history of making aesthetically irreproachable, often complicated, and very elegant watches from the end of the 18th century right down until the present day, but not tool watches as such. And yet, aviation is perhaps just as important a part of the Breguet family’s history as watchmaking, with the Type XX and XXI chronographs representing one of the most important aspects of the inventiveness that characterized Abraham Louis Breguet and his descendants.

Material gains: what’s the deal with steel and what type is the best for watchmaking?

Whether it’s a bespoke luxury piece, a tough tool watch or even a daily diver, stainless steel is still watchmaking’s primary material of choice. Yet while 316L grade steel is increasingly used by a number of brands, there are, in fact, better, smoother and harder alternatives for watchmaking. Is there such a thing a precious … ContinuedThe post Material gains: what’s the deal with steel and what type is the best for watchmaking? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Camera Review: Leica SL Type 601 and lenses

Photographing your watch is perhaps as essential a hobby as collecting them. We review the Leica SL Type 601 and principally the 60mm TL Macro.

Rolex at Watches & Wonders 2024: A guilloché dial 1908, full gold Deepsea, new Cerachrom colorway, gem-set Daytonas, Day-Dates and more

Introducing: The Rolex Deepsea Goes Full Gold (And Blue)

A new Ringlock system in ceramic plus an RLX titanium caseback underscores this new pro diver of the deep.

Introducing: NOMOS Dips Into Pink And Purple For New Club Campus Releases

A pair of playful new color options.

The Grey NATO: Episode 113: The Isolation Tapes // May Q And A

Lots of questions, plenty of answers.

The Grey NATO: Episode 105: The Isolation Tapes // More Q And A

Answering your questions from all over the world.

Bring a Loupe: A '70s Audemars Piguet Royal Oak, A Moonphase from IWC X Porsche Design, And A Rolex Oyster Perpetual Deepsea

Another week, another round of watches from the web worth knowing about.

SIHH 2010: ALS Homage Moonphase and Lange 1 Tourbillon

We continue with the Homage series in honey gold. The 1815 Moonphase is a rehash of the original Emil Lange 1815 Moonphase which has been doing very well in the auction scene. The character of the 1815 dial design is apparent in the new watch. But the design shows a totally new watch…featuring the vapourRead More

How Do You Like Your Rotor - Central, Micro, Or Peripheral? And What About A Hammer?

Is there such a thing as a best rotor? A pragmatic watchmaker might say a heavy central one that winds the mainspring the most efficiently is the best. A collector of traditional watches with similar movements might say that nothing beats a solid micro-rotor. And I know people with a deep fondness for technical watchmaking […] Visit How Do You Like Your Rotor - Central, Micro, Or Peripheral? And What About A Hammer? to read the full article.

Moser’s Streamliner Goes All-Ceramic for the First Time

H. Moser & Cie. dips its toes into ceramic for the first time with the Streamliner Tourbillon Concept Ceramic, a bold watch that blends an original design with the high-tech proprieties of ceramic. Despite being a variation of a well-known model at its core, the new Streamliner is unexpectedly different and appealing, especially with a hand-finished ceramic bracelet, an unusual feature even in its segment. Initial thoughts The use of ceramic materials in watches is no longer a novelty. The inert and hard material is appealing for its near-invulnerability to scratches and high tech feel. Ceramics are typically employed for either for aesthetic or technical purposes, but usually for watch cases, while ceramic bracelets are almost exclusively the preserve of large brands that can afford working with the hard-to-machine material.  Though still a niche brand, H. Moser & Cie.’s bestselling Streamliner is dressed entirely in ceramic, with a ceramic case paired with a ceramic bracelet. An all-ceramic bracelet is a rare sight from a brand of Moser’s scale. The matte, brushed finish of the ceramic exterior is at the opposite end of the colour spectrum compared with the bright red yet minimalist dial, giving this the signature Moser look. The granular, glossy finish of the fired enamel dial contrast and complements the matte, stealthy sheen of ceramic.   The watch is paradoxical in some ways. Pairing Moser’s first ceramic case and bracelet with a tourbillon is somewhat incong...