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Oyster Case

Rolex's 1926 waterproof case patent, the template for every water-resistant wristwatch.

A Grand Seiko 44GS in Purple-Pink Only for Asia SJX Watches
Grand Seiko 44GS Nov 21, 2024

A Grand Seiko 44GS in Purple-Pink Only for Asia

Grand Seiko marks the second anniversary of its establishment in the Asia-Pacific with the Heritage Collection 44GS “Fuji” SBGJ285. Featuring a purple-pink dial inspired by the wisteria flower, this limited edition is based on the reinterpretation of the vintage 44GS and its distinctive wide-flanked case. The case and bracelet are in Ever-Brilliant steel, a proprietary steel alloy that’s harder and shinier than conventional watchmaking steel. Powered by the high-frequency automatic cal. 9S86, the SBGJ285 features “true GMT” functionality with an independently adjustable hour hand. Initial thoughts As a long-time fan of Grand Seiko, I love the patterned dials and Zaratsu case polishing. The SBGJ285 exemplifies the essence of Grand Seiko. Though Grand Seiko does put out a significant number of limited editions, this one stands out for its unusual purple-pink colour, which is a different shade from the “salmon” dials that are now in vogue. The watch also reflects the brand’s traditional strengths and weaknesses. The case and dial finishing are excellent, particularly at this price point. However, the bracelet is not as refined as sophisticated as that of the competition. That said, this will look good on a leather strap, especially given the vintage-inspired 44GS case pairs well with a strap. Conveniently, this limited edition is delivered with both a steel bracelet and a calfskin strap. Wisteria flower The limited edition retains the standard case of the “...

Grand Seiko Expands their Mid-Size 44GS Offerings with Two New References Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko Expands their Mid-Size 44GS Oct 12, 2023

Grand Seiko Expands their Mid-Size 44GS Offerings with Two New References

One of the more exciting releases from Grand Seiko over the last couple of years (we know – there have been a lot of new Grand Seiko releases) was the limited edition SBGW289, a pink hued watch in a 44GS case with a throwback size of just 36.5mm. Naturally, plenty of people were excited about the pink dial, but hardcore Grand Seiko nerds were particularly into the idea of a smaller 44GS case, more in-line with vintage Grand Seiko proportions, and this LE that debuted in April of last year seemed to point toward future releases along these lines that might not be so limited, and perhaps even be in more classic and sober dial colors. With Grand Seiko’s latest release, they continue to build out the lineup of smaller 44GS cases with a pair of watches that feel like they could have been part of the Grand Seiko catalog since the 1960s.  The new SBGW297 and SBGW299 have dials in white and blue, respectively, each with a classic, heavy, sunray pattern emanating from the center. This isn’t a subtle, brushed sunray texture, but a more defined series of fanned ridges that are more clearly visible and should play with the light in interesting ways. The dials, and the watches more broadly, are directly inspired by styles dating back to the 1967 introduction of the 44GS design, and there’s an understated simplicity here that is certainly core to the Grand Seiko aesthetic.  The cases match the 36.5mm proportions of last year’s SBGW289, which means they offer all of the inher...

Farer Goes Medium with the New 36mm Three Hand Collection Worn & Wound
Farer Goes Medium Jan 23, 2023

Farer Goes Medium with the New 36mm Three Hand Collection

It’s far too early in the year to call anything that’s happened so far in the watch world a “trend,” at least by any traditional dictionary definition of the word. In these early weeks of January, it’s just as likely that any example we might point to of releases that feel similar in some way or follow a pattern are merely coincidences. Still, our collective radar goes up when we see new watches begin to follow a certain format, and between a surprising release at last week’s LVMH watch week, a pleasantly diminutive GMT, and this new collection from Farer, we get the sense that it’s worth paying attention to smaller watches making their way onto the scene.  The new 36mm Three Hand collection is a small selection of four watches that take familiar Farer design tropes and shrink them down into a case that sits squarely in “medium” territory. It’s an interesting move for Farer, as they’ve always made watches that are well proportioned, not overly large, and could fairly be described as unisex. Recent releases like an updated Stanhope and the AquaMatic collection have certainly reinforced this idea. But the new Three Hand collection seen here takes the idea to another level, and underscores the midcentury design inspiration that has always been at the heart of Farer’s watches.  As is typical of Farer, they’ve launched the new Three Hand collection with four watches that showcase the wide range of colors the brand is skilled at working with. The Reso...

INTRODUCING: The Grand Seiko SBGP017 44GS 55th Anniversary Limited Edition Time+Tide
Grand Seiko SBGP017 44GS 55th Anniversary Jun 11, 2022

INTRODUCING: The Grand Seiko SBGP017 44GS 55th Anniversary Limited Edition

If Grand Seiko is known for one thing only (and they’re certainly not), it’s their breathtaking dials, and their latest limited edition pushes that tradition further skyward with the release of the high-precision, quartz-powered SBGP017 44GS 55th Anniversary Limited Edition. This light blue-dialled beauty showcases the brand’s exquisite finishing work, with an ethereal, pillowy texture … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Grand Seiko SBGP017 44GS 55th Anniversary Limited Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Grand Seiko Introduces 44GS 55th Anniversary Limited Edition SJX Watches
Grand Seiko Introduces 44GS 55th Anniversary Feb 14, 2022

Grand Seiko Introduces 44GS 55th Anniversary Limited Edition

Launched in 2020 inside the all-new Evolution 9 collection, Grand Seiko’s top-of-the-line mechanical and Spring Drive movements have now found their way into the distinctive 44GS case, which happens to turn 55 this year. With its wide, flat lugs, the 44GS case is a familiar, quintessential Grand Seiko (GS) design, but the Heritage Collection 44GS 55th Anniversary Limited Edition pair bring along relatively new features: the case is machined from brand’s proprietary Ever Brilliant Steel for the first time, while the dial now sports an unusually pronounced woodgrain pattern. Initial thoughts The 44GS 55th Anniversary is typical of the brand’s recent launches with its iteration on familiar elements but made different with minor tweaks. It’s a subtlety that appeals to enthusiasts who cherish variations on a theme, though casual observers will find it difficult to distinguish between the models. But the fundamental appeal of GS remains, which is a top notch execution within its price segment. That said, the latest pair are arguably a bit more special. One factor in their favour is the patterned dial. It’s a newish addition to the GS line up and also exclusive to date, having been used only in two models, both of which are expensive watches in precious metals. The new 44GS is, of course, in steel and hence more affordable. But the case is no ordinary steel, but instead Ever Brilliant Steel – the corrosion-resistant alloy is being applied to GS cases for the first ...

Breitling Goes Back to Its Racing Roots with Three New Top Time Models Celebrating the Iconic Aston Martin DB5 Worn & Wound
Breitling Goes Back Jul 22, 2026

Breitling Goes Back to Its Racing Roots with Three New Top Time Models Celebrating the Iconic Aston Martin DB5

Breitling is no stranger to a racing inspired watch. Its history with the sport traces back to the debut of its Top Time collection back in 1964. Over the years the brand has most notably worked with Bentley Motors to create automotive-inspired wristwatches and dashboard-style clocks. In addition, we’ve seen Breitling commemorate several iconic models through its Top Time Classic Cars line, like the Ford Mustang, Chevrolet Corvette, and Shelby Cobra. Earlier this year, Breitling made a pivot, announcing it was teaming up with Aston Martin and the Aston Martin Aramco Formula One Team as the official watch partner. The duo’s first timepiece was the limited-edition Navitimer B01 Chronograph 43 with a titanium case, carbon-fiber dial, and Aston Martin racing green accents. Now, we get another edition as Breitling gets back to its original racing roots with three new Top Time models that pay tribute to the Aston Martin DB5. The DB5 hailed from the same era as the original Top Time and was first introduced by Aston Martin in 1963. The model became one of the most iconic cars to grace the silver screen, namely films in the James Bond franchise, and cemented the luxury carmaker’s place in both automotive and pop culture history. Today, the two brands bring this spirit of the 60s into the modern era with the new Top Time B01 Chronograph 41 Tribute to Aston Martin DB5 in a trio of limited editions. The details of the new designs marry the codes of both makers with both tactile...

Watches & Wonders: Bremont Goes Upmarket With the Supernova Tourbillon and a Vintage-Styled Chronograph With a Historic Movement Worn & Wound
Bremont Goes Upmarket Apr 22, 2026

Watches & Wonders: Bremont Goes Upmarket With the Supernova Tourbillon and a Vintage-Styled Chronograph With a Historic Movement

For Watches and Wonders 2026, Bremont is aiming for the stars: not only with the Supernova Chronograph, a new space-oriented lineup that will actually go to the moon, but also showcasing what the British brand can do with a pair of upmarket, collectible chronographs. One of them features an in-house tourbillon movement, while the other resurrects an vaunted historic movement in an elegant, limited-edition, and vintage-inspired design.  The Supernova Chronograph, also making its debut in Geneva at Watches & Wonders, is the first of a new line for Bremont, a steel sports watch with an integrated bracelet and a generously-sized 41mm case. But Bremont is also using its architecture to debut the brand’s second tourbillon movement, following 2024’s Terra Nova Dual Time Tourbillon. This time around, the Supernova Tourbillon exhibits a skeleton design with all of its movement bridges and tourbillon cage displayed around a black ceramic bezel and a sapphire crystal, with red jewels as the Supernova’s only exhibition of color.  Dramatically, the markers, bridges, Dauphine hands, and the tourbillon’s three markers glow with a bright blue Super-LumiNova, a nod to the space theme that the Supernova is aiming for.  If the Supernova Tourbillon is aimed at the future, Bremont’s other release has a distinctly vintage feel-starting from its movement. Bremont is resurrecting the Valjoux 23 two-register chronograph movement into its new Altitude Chronograph Pulsometer: a restor...

Richard Mille Goes Hyper Lightweight with the RM 55-01 SJX Watches
Richard Mille Goes Hyper Lightweight Apr 20, 2026

Richard Mille Goes Hyper Lightweight with the RM 55-01

In an unexpected departure from their its horological extravaganza, Richard Mille has just unveiled the time-only RM 55-01. With a focus on simplified movement architecture and lightness, the RM 55-01’s movement is a hand-wound exercise in restraint and weighs under 5 g – equivalent to one sheet of A4 paper. Initial thoughts At its debut in the early 2000s, Richard Mille basically introduced and then perfected the niche offering of ultra-expensive, “hyper” sports watches, juggling complications, materials and bold aesthetics to create an outrageously expensive cocktail of lightness and ergonomics. With the RM55-01 the same brand returns to the basics, with a caliber developed for extreme lightness, doing away with automatic winding or any complications. The watch only tells the hours, minutes and seconds - which is not really something one expects from Richard Mille these days.  This RM 55-01 feels like a spiritual descendant of the discontinued RM 55 “Bubba Watson”. The case lines and the movement itself are very reminiscent of that model, although the RM 055 was mostly marketed as a light but sturdy golfer’s watch. The new RM55-01 is presented as a pure exercise in weight reduction. Though the price of the RM 55-01 is unavailable, it is probably unjustifiable in any tangible or intrinsic sense. But is a mechanical watch that weighs as much as a few sheets of paper extremely cool? Yes – if you can afford it. Airy construction The RM 55-01 is built with ...

Bulgari Goes Big with a Pair of Opulent LVMH Watch Week Releases Worn & Wound
Bulgari Goes Big Jan 19, 2026

Bulgari Goes Big with a Pair of Opulent LVMH Watch Week Releases

There are two things I really like about Bulgari. The first being that I’m not entirely sure how to spell their brand’s name. Bulgari? Bvlgari? Both? A secret third option? At any rate, I find it a bit chic to have a bit of runic ambiguity in a modern-day brand. The second thing I enjoy is their commitment to glamour. In today’s fashion and jewelry market, there is an inundation of simplistic, minimalistic styles. Personally speaking, I’m quite fond of dressing like I live in the Nordics, but a bit of eye candy every now and then never hurt anyone. That is to say, I’m quite pleased to share the release of two new watches, which will be presented in Milan during LVMH Watch Week, beginning today. Let me introduce you to: Maglia Milanese Monete and Tubogas Manchette. First up, the Maglia Milanese Monete revisits Bulgari’s Monete concept from the mid-1960s, centered around an authentic Roman coin from the reign of Emperor Caracalla. It is paired with a rose gold Milanese mesh bracelet, marking the brand’s first use of the technique and giving the watch a more fluid look on the wrist, nodding more to Bulgari’s jewelry-making history. The dial itself is concealed beneath the coin, while the watch is powered by Bulgari’s Piccolissimo BVP100. The manually wound movement measures just 13.5mm in diameter and 2.5mm thick, and offers a 30-hour power reserve, which can be viewed through the sapphire caseback. Next, the Tubogas Manchette takes its cues from a 1970s des...

Louis Vuitton Goes to Space with the Tambour Taiko Galactique SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton Goes Apr 30, 2025

Louis Vuitton Goes to Space with the Tambour Taiko Galactique

After voyages through the cultures of Europe, China, and Japan, Louis Vuitton sets course beyond the terrestrial realm. The Tambour Taiko Galactique is a minute repeater with automata depicting an astronaut on the Moon. With its newest creation, Louis Vuitton once again marries artisanal decoration with high-end mechanics – all accomplished in-house at its manufacture in Geneva, La Fabrique du Temps (LFT). Initial thoughts For several years now, Louis Vuitton has endeavoured to preserve and perpetuate traditional watchmaking and related crafts. From the Louis Vuitton Watch Prize for Independent Creatives to its collaborations with independent watchmakers, and the massive, nine-figure investment in its Geneva manufactures and the vertical integration of metiers d’art, Louis Vuitton is a large luxury brand, the world’s biggest in fact, but still remains in touch with artisanal horology.  The latest launch from the French marque is a minute repeater that defies traditional dogma. With the Galactique, Louis Vuitton pays tribute to both the space age and classic watchmaking by dressing an otherwise traditional complication in a space-themed attire. It is literally a “Moonwatch”, but of another type.  The lunar-centric watch is appealing, a little whimsical, and well-executed, with consistent design choices unifying the case and dial. The only decidedly classic element is the movement that is visible through the case back.  An artful dial The centrepiece of the Gala...

[VIDEO] The Tudor Goes Deep with Pelagos Ultra Worn & Wound
Tudor Goes Deep Apr 2, 2025

[VIDEO] The Tudor Goes Deep with Pelagos Ultra

Tudor’s most technical dive range receives its most technical entry yet. Over the last few years, we’ve seen the Pelagos expand quite dramatically, starting with the introduction of the FXD series, which has ranged from military-spec via the M.N. to carbon fiber chronographs, to a GMT, to standard varieties, as well as the smaller-wrist-compatible Pelagos 39. For 2025, however, we’re seeing a return or a close relative to the original Pelagos, with a 1000m variant called the Pelagos Ultra. At double the water resistance of the original, 1000m is undoubtedly the headline of the Ultra, but there are many subtle changes to the design that give this new watch its own personality. First, the case is a touch larger at 43mm in diameter (vs 42mm for the original), 52mm lug-to-lug (my measure), and 14.8mm thick. While these dimensions sound imposing, they were more tolerable than expected on the wrist, largely because of the lightweight grade 2 titanium construction. The spacing between the dial and the crystal was reduced to keep the case relatively thin, or at least not thicker than the original. As such, the rehaut was redesigned to be flat and a touch wider. While I am a bit remiss to see the steeply angled rehaut with cutouts of the original get cut, as I found it a particularly enjoyable design that added a contemporary and aggressive edge to the watch, the new version is less distracting and allows for more dial space. In turn, the applied hour markers and hands are la...

The TAG Heuer Formula 1 Goes Solar Worn & Wound
TAG Heuer Formula 1 Goes Solar Apr 1, 2025

The TAG Heuer Formula 1 Goes Solar

Much to the chagrin of my fellow automotive enthusiast friends, I am not an ardent Formula 1 follower-I prefer motorsports of the all-wheel drive variety, coated in mud in the Finnish wilderness. Still, the allure of the screaming engines, blinding speed, and pure bling of Formula 1 isn’t lost on me. Millions of fans worldwide are captivated by the sport and its entrants for a reason-and TAG Heuer, the official timekeeper of Formula 1, has nine new references to match that ever-growing fervor. In celebration of the colorful 1986 origin of the brand’s Formula 1 Collection, the new models feature bright hues and a reimagined design. Three of the nine pieces feature the more “classic” dial colors of black and white or blue on a steel bracelet. The remaining six are limited edition colorways: black and red, black and yellow, blue and black, white and green, white and red, and green and red.  According to TAG Heuer, each model pays direct homage to the 1986 collection in design and function. However, key changes reflect contemporary taste-instead of the original 35mm, the new cases (constructed of sandblasted steel or TH-Polylight depending on the model) measure 38mm but retain the sporty aesthetic that the line is known for. The original shield-shaped markers have also been modernized, appearing now as applied and Super-Luminova-treated indexes. The “Mercedes”-style hands carry on, as does the chunky 60-second scale bezel, date window at 3 o’clock, and agg...

Louis Vuitton’s Tambour Goes Upmarket with Ceramic and Gemstones SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton s Tambour Goes Upmarket Feb 17, 2025

Louis Vuitton’s Tambour Goes Upmarket with Ceramic and Gemstones

During the recent LVMH Watch Week, Louis Vuitton revealed new, luxe variants of its Tambour (alongside the unexpected Convergence). Originally launched in relatively conservative guises, the slim sports watch now gets more interesting – and pricey – with the use of ceramic and gemstones. A nod to the brand’s monogram canvas, the Tambour Ceramic is a mix of brushed brown ceramic and 18k pink gold. And the pair of “High End” models is made up of the Tambour Platinum Rainbow sporting sapphires and rubies (pictured above), and the Tambour Yellow Gold Onyx that’s set with orange sapphires. The Tambour Ceramic Initial thoughts I like the Tambour because it’s an appealing design that wears notably well. The thin case sits flat on the wrist and the feel is elegant. Though the styling is more subtle than earlier versions of the Tambour, most of which were large and chunky, the new Tambour is still a recognisable design that retains elements of the drum-like originals. The new versions are appealing for the same reason, but upgraded in terms of materials. There’s nothing to complain about, except the cost. The ceramic model is €75,000 while the platinum “rainbow” is €150,000 – fair relative to the market but still hefty. These are on par with equivalent watches from comparable brands, and the small number made help rationalise the numbers. The Tambour Yellow Gold Onyx is a limited edition of just 30 However, the new Tambour models share the same LFT023.01 f...

[VIDEO] The Hamilton Khaki Field Goes Quartz Worn & Wound
Hamilton Khaki Field Goes Quartz Sep 25, 2024

[VIDEO] The Hamilton Khaki Field Goes Quartz

When you work in the watch industry, one of the questions you get asked over and over again is “What’s the best watch for $XXX?” The dollar amount is constantly shifting depending on who is asking the question or their level of horological curiosity, but over time I think most of develop a stock answer to questions like these. My favorite recommendation for almost anyone asking about watches under $1,000 is some version of the Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical. These are, and have always been, fantastic watches. They’re affordable, easy to read, and now come in a variety of sizes, dial colors, and case metals to suit just about any taste. But the not-so-secret weapon, in my opinion, is the manually wound movement. If using a watch like this everyday, dutifully winding it as needed, doesn’t hook you on this hobby, I kind of don’t know what will.  My own admiration for the mechanical versions of these watches aside, it comes as no real surprise that Hamilton would want to expand the potential reach of the Khaki Field by offering an even easier to wear quartz version. And that’s what we have here. It’s a somewhat strange proposition, taking a watch whose identity, such as it is, is based around a mechanical caliber, and removing it entirely from the equation, but it turns out that even in a quartz configuration the Khaki Field retains a lot of its character.  The new Khaki Field Quartz watches are available in both the familiar 38mm and a new 33mm size in whit...

Introducing - The Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Goes Full Gold Monochrome
Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Goes Jul 30, 2024

Introducing - The Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Goes Full Gold

The Bathyscaphe, Blancpain‘s more compact and streamlined version of the Fifty Fathoms, was first released in 1956. Compared to its full-fledged counterpart, with larger cases, more water-resistance and a more instrument-like design, the Bathyscaphe crosses borders and Blancpain uses to bring complications or higher-end materials within a diver’s context. Following the recent introduction of full […]

INITIAL THOUGHTS: Zenith Goes Green With The New Chronomaster Sport - Live Pics WatchAdvice
Zenith Goes Green Feb 16, 2024

INITIAL THOUGHTS: Zenith Goes Green With The New Chronomaster Sport - Live Pics

In Partnership: Zenith unveiled their latest Chronomaster Sport at LVMH Watch Week last month, and we’ve had a first-hand look at the new edition. LVMH watch week has been and gone for another year, and being in Miami, many of the brands under the LVMH banner went with a decidedly green theme. Maybe this was just a coincidence as there seems to be a range of green watches being released this year. Zenith was no exception and this year, not only did we get a Titanium Chronomaster Sport, but we also were introduced to a new all-green Chronomaster Sport. Yes this is similar to the Aaron Rodgers version, but without the Aaron Rodgers embellishments. Essentially it’s the standard Chronomaster Sport, but green! View this post on Instagram A post shared by Watch Advice (@watchadvice) Whilst this isn’t a review per sè I’m going to let you know how this feels and looks on the wrist. Hey, I’ve had a chance to have this for the week to play with it and give it a good test drive, so what better way to showcase this release than with live pics and on the wrist with a first-hand account? Plus I’ll say this now, this piece had me a little smitten with the way it looked and felt on my wrist. The new Zenith Chronomaster Sport Green When released a few years ago, the Chronomaster Sport was accused of being a bit too close in looks to the Rolex Daytona. Now this was mainly due to the fact that it was released in both a black variant and white variant, had a similar case and brac...

[Hands-On] De Bethune Goes All Blue (Again) with New Kind of Blue DB28XP Worn & Wound
De Bethune Goes All Blue Again Sep 1, 2023

[Hands-On] De Bethune Goes All Blue (Again) with New Kind of Blue DB28XP

De Bethune is returning to their Kind of Blue concept within a new frame that combines the best of the DB28XP and the DB28 Kind of Blue to create the, you guessed it, DB28XP Kind of Blue. The new watch is trimmer than ever, and bluer than ever (insert Tobias joke here), and leans into the absolute best of DeBethune’s design language. It’s a smaller, thinner watch, but there’s still plenty of visual impact thanks to the wide frame that the lugs define. And as complex is it may look at a glance, at its core, there’s a very straightforward watch here.  The case and dial are made of thermally blued titanium with “microlight” pattern finish, and the result is stunning under any amount of light. It shifts between blue hues that pick up notes of purple at certain angles, and the finish creases a near liquid-metal appearance. All of this applied to the shapes and structures that De Bethune uses with the DB28 create an incredibly dramatic presence that will have you staring at the watch without a moment’s thought of the time. There are a set of hands reading off the hour and the minutes, but they feel secondary to the rest of the experience of this watch. De Bethune is using the thin, hand wound DB2115v12 movement with their own balance wheel, which is visible at the bottom of the dial, under the arch-like structure. The XP in the name denotes that this is an extra thin (plat) watch, and indeed it stands at just 8.5mm in thickness, but this isn’t a watch about the ...

Bell & Ross Goes Green with a New Version of the BR 05 Chronograph Worn & Wound
Bell & Ross Goes Green Aug 1, 2023

Bell & Ross Goes Green with a New Version of the BR 05 Chronograph

The last Bell & Ross I wrote about had a celestial feel to it, but with the new BR 05 Chrono Green Steel, we’ve landed back on earth. With its mixture of steel and vibrant green, this BR 05 mixes urbanism with an architectural lean to it. Think Central Park in New York or the Tiergarten in Berlin – a respite of greenery in the middle of a steel-and-concrete jungle. Like all BR 05 models, the Chrono Green Steel retains its aviation-inspired squared dial that Bell & Ross now markets to the urban explorer crowd. And with its integrated steel bracelet and sleek design, it’s easy to see why. All models in the Chrono collection are equipped with a circular seconds subdial at 9 o’clock and a 30-second timer at 3 o’clock, creating a balance to the visuals of the watch that somehow fit neatly within the linear confines of the square dial. The date is cleverly tucked away in the small recess between 4 and 5 o’clock, hardly noticeable but definitely there. Like an urban planner, Bell & Ross has ensured that no bit of real estate has gone unnoticed. The green sunray dial and Super-LumiNova indices and numbers soften the overall feel of the watch itself. Coming in at 42mm of satin-polished steel, the use of green feels more inviting and less, well, cold.  The BR 05 Chrono Green Steel is equipped with a Swiss-made self-winding BR-CAL.326 movement, which can be seen through the sapphire crystal case back, and supplies the wearer with 60-hours of power reserve.  The BR 05 Ch...

Timex Goes Retro with the Funky World Time 1972 Worn & Wound
Timex Goes Retro Jun 28, 2023

Timex Goes Retro with the Funky World Time 1972

Looking at the state of airplanes and travel fashion today, you’d be forgiven if you forgot that air travel was once seen as glamorous. Like the luxury sleeper trains that came before it, the jets of the mid-20th Century were not only a way to get from point A to point B, but to appreciate a level of style and service that has diminished over the last few decades. Fortunately, Timex is here to remind us of the golden days of jet-setting with their reissue of their Model 41, now redesigned as the World Time 1972 Reissue. Looking back through their archive, Timex has recreated a decidedly groovy watch for a modern audience. With its unique barrel-shaped stainless steel case and geometric red second hand, it’s a play on retro without looking dated. Most noticeable on the Timex World Time 1972 is the rotating bezel, which features 24 cities from around the globe. Originally designed for world travelers, the listed cities are marked by Greenwich Mean Time, and one has to simply rotate one’s current location with the hour hand,  making the wearer able to traverse time zones easily to know if it’s lunchtime in Buenos Aires or aperitivo o’clock in Rome. You’ll notice that the spellings are in French as well, as this watch was originally made specifically for a European audience. Très chic.  The watch’s case is a friendly 39mm with vintage-inspired integrated, downward-facing lugs. The Timex World Time 1972 Reissue is a quartz-movement watch and affordably priced a...

Girard-Perregaux Goes Full Aston Martin Racing Green in New Ceramic Laureato Worn & Wound
Girard-Perregaux Goes Full Aston Martin Mar 15, 2023

Girard-Perregaux Goes Full Aston Martin Racing Green in New Ceramic Laureato

It’s a good time to be an Aston Martin fan. Review embargoes finally lifted on their next generation hypercar, the Valkyrie (spoiler alert, it’s bonkers); their Formula 1 team is showing a shocking amount of pace with the legendary Spainiard, Fernando Alonso (don’t call him old) at the wheel; and finally, as of today, that iconic Aston Martin Racing Green is now available in the new fully ceramic Laureato from Girard-Perregaux. The Laureato is low key one of the great integrated sport watches at the high end, and this is the first time it’s been offered in AMR green, as well as being fully rendered in ceramic.  The newest limited edition additions to the Laureato range will be offered in both the 38mm and 42mm sizing, mirroring what is currently offered elsewhere in the collection. More options is never a bad thing in our book, though in my brief time with the watch I found the 38mm to wear exceptionally well given the shape of the case. Unlike other integrated watches, the Laureato manages the lug transition in a way that more closely resembles the footprint of a more traditional lug placement, leading to a more ‘true to size’ experience with the watch. With that in mind, the 42mm doesn’t wear overly large, and given the weight of the watches will not present much in the way of heft, either. Both sizes are relatively scant, with the 42mm measuring 11mm in thickness, and the 38mm measuring a hair over 10mm in thickness. With a case and bracelet constructed o...

Kurono Tokyo Goes Small with Four New Limited Edition Watches Worn & Wound
Kurono Tokyo Goes Small Mar 13, 2023

Kurono Tokyo Goes Small with Four New Limited Edition Watches

This is one for the “better late than never” file. Last week, Kurono Tokyo launched their latest collection of watches, a series of four sector dials that quickly sold out after being made available on Friday morning. These watches, sized at just 34mm, are part of the “Special Projects” series that Kurono has undertaken, which seem to be personal labors of love from watchmaker Hajime Asaoka. On the webpage where these watches were announced, he writes about his own preference for 34mm watches, and not being sure of their mass appeal. When Kurono last experimented with a 34mm case size, the watches quickly sold out at a pop-up event, and that inspired Asaoka to make another run, in a new batch of colors. The near immediate sell out of this new collection would indicate to most observers that he’s onto something.  I’m a big fan of Kurono and enjoy that they produce watches in a more traditional size. It just seems to suit Asaoka’s design sensibilities – it’s tough to imagine the Toki, for example, being nearly as appealing in a 40mm case. That said, 34mm is a little small for me, but I have a big wrist, and the 37mm cases that Kurono favors are at the low end of my sweet spot. That means that a lot of people with “average” sized wrists will probably find 34mm to be a nice fit if they’re going for a more classic and subtle look. Kurono cases are always designed in such a way as to maximize comfort and wearability, which I think can largely neutralize ...

Sinn Goes Full Titanium and Bronze with New T50 Dive Watch Worn & Wound
Sinn Goes Full Titanium Feb 23, 2023

Sinn Goes Full Titanium and Bronze with New T50 Dive Watch

Sinn has released a new midsize diver with some big time specs to kick off their 2023 releases with the new T50. This is a watch that may seem familiar at a glance, as a follow up to the popular U50 released in 2020, but there’s plenty new here to set plenty of distance between the two, the biggest of which are the use of new materials, which include titanium and a new Sinn developed alloy called Goldbronze. This is a proprietary material that boasts some unique features in the service of longevity and functionality in true Sinn fashion. It looks pretty good, too.  The T50 arrives in three main configurations, going from full Goldbronze in a limited edition 125, to a mix of titanium and Goldbronze in the GBDR, and finally a fully titanium example that forgoes the use of Goldbronze altogether. All look to share the same mid case design and proportions of the 41mm U50, which is a very good thing (see our review of the U50 here). This rather svelte and wearable package gets a remarkably stout 500 meter depth rating, and with the T50 adds Sinn’s Ar‑Dehumidifying inside the bottom left lug. The dial and bezel present the biggest departure from the U50 design language, departing from the brutal blocky design of the hands and hour markers in favor of a more approachable look that utilizes bar shaped hour markers and a pair of broadsword hands. The look may be more palatable to those who found the U50 a touch too aggressive, however it comes at the expense of a distinctivel...

TAG Heuer Goes Big with Synthetic Diamonds SJX Watches
TAG Heuer Goes Big Apr 11, 2022

TAG Heuer Goes Big with Synthetic Diamonds

TAG Heuer is injecting advanced materials technology into what was the most affordable tourbillon-chronograph on the market, creating the Carrera Plasma Tourbillon Nanograph. The new watch makes liberal use of carbon in all its forms, most notably with a carbon-composite hairspring along with a dial and crown made entirely of synthetic diamond, reflecting chief executive Frederic Arnault’s interest in technology and industrial processes. Priced at the equivalent of US$375,000, the Plasma is the first luxury mechanical watch to utilise artificial, or lab-grown, diamonds. Initial thoughts TAG Heuer has developed a suite of cutting-edge technology unusual a brands in its price range, though the brand’s most significant innovation, the carbon-composite hairspring, has never really gotten the recognition it deserves. While extremely expensive and slated to be produced in tiny numbers – just a handful a year according to Mr Arnault – the Plasma will certain broadcast TAG Heuer’s accomplishments in innovation, as well as that of its in synthetic diamond suppliers. While lab-grown diamonds aren’t new, they have never before been used in high-end watch. As befits their unconventional status, the synthetic diamonds have been set in an abstract manner on the case, as opposed to typical gem setting. Combined with the synthetic diamond dial and crown, the result is a watch that is weird yet compelling. But more important than the decorative use of synthetic diamond is the...

How did this Rolex get past QA? Revisiting the suspicious case of the ‘Double 9’ Air-King… Time+Tide
Rolex get past QA? Revisiting Oct 27, 2020

How did this Rolex get past QA? Revisiting the suspicious case of the ‘Double 9’ Air-King…

Editor’s note: It seems to be yet another sub-sub-sub-culture within the watch collecting community. And that is the people that get some kind of a kick out of Rolex imperfections. I suppose, in lots of ways, it makes sense. They are so rare as to be freaks of nature. Recently, a new Oyster Perpetual model … ContinuedThe post How did this Rolex get past QA? Revisiting the suspicious case of the ‘Double 9’ Air-King… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.