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Pie Pan Dial Omega

Faceted multi-level dial designed by Pierre Vibert for the 1952 Omega Constellation; modern Globemaster reissue.
In-Depth: F.P. Journe FFC Blue “Francis Ford Coppola” SJX Watches
F.P. Journe FFC Blue “Francis Ford Oct 31, 2021

In-Depth: F.P. Journe FFC Blue “Francis Ford Coppola”

Francois-Paul Journe’s creation for Only Watch 2021, the F.P. Journe FFC Blue, sticks to a familiar template. Like prior watches conceived for the biennial charity auction – the tourbillon of 2015, split-seconds chronograph of 2017, and the Astronomic of 2019 – this year’s timepiece has a tantalum case and blue dial. But FFC Blue is a strikingly unique watch – the five-fingered time display is a first in watchmaking. Though it has a conventional round case, the FFC Blue is conceptually closer to the unconventional Vagabondage watches than the brand’s round watches. Short for Francis Ford Coppola, the FFC Blue originated with a question posed to Mr Journe by the director of The Godfather and Apocalypse Now in 2012. Mr Coppola suggested a watch that indicated the time with human hand. Over the following years Mr Journe worked on the concept, with Mr Coppola suggesting the finger positions to indicate each hour. And now the filmmaker’s idea has been realised as a one-off creation for the charity auction. Though entirely unique compared with F.P. Journe’s other creations, the FFC is powered by the workhorse cal. 1300 of the Octa series Initial thoughts I found the hand-display concept intensely compelling when Mr Journe described it during my visit to Geneva in 2017. In the metal the FFC is equally compelling. It is inventive and appealing. It’s rather large at 42 mm in diameter, though like nearly all F.P. Journe watches it is unusually thin given the c...

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Only Watch 2021: F.P. Journe FFC Blue “Francis Ford Coppola” SJX Watches
F.P. Journe FFC Blue “Francis Ford Jul 1, 2021

Only Watch 2021: F.P. Journe FFC Blue “Francis Ford Coppola”

F.P. Journe’s creation for Only Watch 2021 is an interesting one – the FFC Blue, characterised by a hand on the dial that displays the hours. Like F.P. Journe’s past contributions to Only Watch, the FFC Blue is powered by a prototype movement – rough around the edges and lots of character – and features a case of tantalum, the grey-blue metal synonymous with the bestselling Chronometre Bleu. Named after the initials of Francis Ford Coppola, the film director best known for The Godfather, the FFC Blue originated in a 2012 visit to Mr Coppola’s residence. The director asked Mr Journe a seemingly innocuous question over dinner, wondering whether it was possible to tell the time with a human hand. Mr Journe mulled it over and over several years devised a mechanism with the help of Mr Coppola, who sent sketches of the desired finger positions for each hour. The unveiling of the FFC Blue also marks the 20th anniversary of the F.P. Journe Octa and its automatic cal. 1300 (it’s the second watch to mark the occasion in fact), which is the base movement of the FFC Blue. Initial Impressions At first glance, the FFC Blue is bizarre for F.P. Journe. The hand sculpture on the dial is unlike most of the brand’s other designs, which are mostly conservative and often Breguet-inspired. Upon closer examination, indeed a bizarre watch it is – in a good way. The mechanism is an impressive example of an automaton, a complex answer to a simple question: how can the human hand...

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F.P. Journe Introduces the Octa Automatique 20th Anniversary SJX Watches
F.P. Journe Introduces Apr 12, 2021

F.P. Journe Introduces the Octa Automatique 20th Anniversary

Just as the new Octa Automatique is slated to join the catalogue, F.P. Journe is marking the 20th anniversary of the model with the Octa Automatique 20th Anniversary. The 99-piece limited edition harks back to the original Octa Réserve de Marche of 2001, then the brand’s entry-level watch. Like the 2001 original, the 20th anniversary edition has a grained, yellow gold dial with a silver sub-dial. And more notably, it is powered by the cal. 1300.3 – but with the bridges and main plate in rhodium-plated brass, just as it was on the original. One of the original Octa Reserve prototypes The prototype movement Initial thoughts The Octa Automatique 20th Anniversary is modestly novel, but will appeal strongly given how it revokes the first-generation model. Given the current outsized desirability of F.P. Journe’s early watches with brass movements, this will be a hot watch. Nips and tucks Though seemingly identical to the original model, the new Octa Automatique is subtly different in terms of design, and substantially different in movement construction. The displays have been rearranged and enlarged to suit the predominately larger case sizes offered by F.P. Journe today. While the original was 38 mm, the standard sizes are now 40 mm and 42 mm. As a result, the date display is slightly larger than before, while the hour numerals are also bigger. Because the date has grown in size, the power reserve display now sits marginally lower than where it used to be. A subtle detai...

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Up Close: Patek Philippe Ref. 5370P-011 Split-Seconds Chronograph SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Ref 5370P-011 Split-Seconds Chronograph Jul 28, 2020

Up Close: Patek Philippe Ref. 5370P-011 Split-Seconds Chronograph

With Baselworld 2020 cancelled and then some, Patek Philippe has been progressively rolling out its new launches, including a trio of “Grand Complications” in mid July (and hints of a brand-new complication at the end of the year). All three new complications are variants of existing models, with the crowd favourite being the Ref. 5370P-011 Split-Seconds Chronograph. The new ref. 5370P-011 has a blue grand feu enamel dial and replaces the original, black-dial model that made its debut in 2015 as the ref. 5370P-001. The ref. 5370P-011 The cal. CHR 29-535 PS Initial thoughts The only thing new about this version of the ref. 5370 versus the first-generation model is the colour of the enamel dial. So everything that was good about the original model (classical design, dial and case quality, movement aesthetics), remain good. Needless to say, so do the weaknesses (mismatched finish on seconds hand, details of movement decoration). The balance assembly Though not a dress watch, the original ref. 5370 was dressed in black-tie colours of black and silver that gave it a stately bearing, but also a slightly old-fashioned feel. With the enamel dial in blue – it’s a gentle, muted blue – the new ref. 5370 looks more modern and casual, which is a good thing if you’re looking for something less formal. The outside Though a large 41 mm in diameter, the case of the ref. 5370 reproduces the proportions of the ref. 1436, a split-seconds chronograph that was in production from ...

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F.P. Journe Introduces the Quantième Perpétuel with Gold Numerals SJX Watches
F.P. Journe Introduces May 12, 2020

F.P. Journe Introduces the Quantième Perpétuel with Gold Numerals

Introduced in 2013, the original Quantième Perpétuel was a concise perpetual calendar with useful features, as well as a peculiar, egg-shaped steel ring around the centre of the dial. Now the design has been refined – but all functionality retained – to create the new F.P. Journe Quantième Perpétuel with gold numerals. And though this was officially announced only recently, the watch has already been available at boutiques for several months. Initial thoughts Compared to the earlier F.P. Journe calendar watches, the Quantième Perpétuel was a big improvement with its highly legible display and improved user friendliness. But the first generation dial was odd because of the steel ring around the centre. That’s been changed with the new model, and the improvement is substantial. The new dial appeals because it doesn’t try too hard to be different. Instead, it differentiates itself in more subtle ways. And the boutique-only blue-dial version is unusual, which is a plus if you’re looking for something different. F.P. Journe has rarely used matte, dark blue dials on standard-production watches; historically only limited editions and custom watches had such dials. Silver and gold Borrowing the clous de Paris engine-turned centre from the Chronometre Souverain, the dial is made of solid silver, while the applied numerals and calendar window frames are solid gold. The addition of gold frames for the calendar do make the positions of the windows more obvious, whic...

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F.P. Journe Introduces the Astronomic Souveraine Grand Complication SJX Watches
F.P. Journe Introduces Nov 14, 2019

F.P. Journe Introduces the Astronomic Souveraine Grand Complication

Just days after the F.P. Journe Astronomic Blue made for Only Watch 2019 sold for a record 1.8m Swiss francs, the watchmaker has unveiled the regular production version of the same – the Astronomic Souveraine. While the last unique F.P. Journe produced for Only Watch eventually made into production in a significantly different form, the Astronomic Souveraine is largely the same. Save for the steel case, dial colours, and movement decoration, the Astronomic Souveraine is identical to the unique Only Watch creation. Inspired by a pocket watch Francois-Paul Journe produced in 1987 – itself inspired by the earlier works of Breguet and George Daniels – the Astronomic Souveraine has 18 complications, shown on two faces on each side of the case. These include showing both mean solar time and sidereal time, as well as an annual calendar, equation of time, tourbillon with remontoir d’egalite constant force mechanism, and a minute repeater. Despite its complexity, the indications are remarkably well-presented, and furthermore, can all be adjusted via a single crown. Though the case is 44mm wide – the largest wristwatch ever by F.P. Journe – it remains notably compact at just 13.8mm high, helped in part by his ultra-thin minute repeater mechanism with flat hammers and gongs. As with most F.P. Journe watches, the dial on the front is solid gold, as are the bridges and plate of the movement. The 758-part cal. 1619 is equipped with double barrels, which are partly visible ...

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Introducing: The First Of The Pragma P1 Perseverance Stone Dial Editions 2026 Fratello
Jun 5, 2026

Introducing: The First Of The Pragma P1 Perseverance Stone Dial Editions 2026

At London Watch Week 2026, Pragma announced two developments that mark the next phase of the young independent brand’s journey. First, the company announced it’s partnering with retailer Ace Jewelers for the United Kingdom and the Netherlands. Second, it unveiled the first of the Pragma P1 Perseverance Stone Dial Editions 2026. The exclusive P1 Perseverance […] Visit Introducing: The First Of The Pragma P1 Perseverance Stone Dial Editions 2026 to read the full article.

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First Look - The New Silver-Toned Patek Philippe In-Line Perpetual Calendar 5236P Monochrome
Patek Philippe In-Line Perpetual Calendar 5236P Apr 22, 2026

First Look - The New Silver-Toned Patek Philippe In-Line Perpetual Calendar 5236P

Widely regarded as a technical and aesthetic masterpiece, Patek Philippe’s In-Line Perpetual Calendar returned in grand form at Watches & Wonders this year, alongside dozens of other new watches, in platinum with a silver dial. Displaying the day, date and month on a single line in a panoramic aperture at noon, few perpetual calendars can […]

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Up Close: F.P. Journe Chronomètre Furtif Bleu “Only Watch 2024” SJX Watches
F.P. Journe Chronomètre Furtif Bleu “Only May 1, 2024

Up Close: F.P. Journe Chronomètre Furtif Bleu “Only Watch 2024”

Possibly the successor to the Chronomètre Bleu, the Chronomètre Furtif Bleu is a unique creation made for Only Watch 2024 taking place on May 10, but also the template for a next generation of lineSport watches. The Furtif Bleu retains the familiar silhouette of the lineSport, but is executed entirely in tantalum – notably the bracelet is tantalum – with a fired enamel dial. Additionally, it is equipped with a new calibre that displays the power reserve and moon phase on the back. Initial thoughts Despite its name and low-key colours, the Furtif Bleu is a very striking watch, largely because of the contrast between the dark grey tantalum and the blue dial with an orange seconds hand. In the hand, it is heavy, as expected for the metal, and also silky in feel due to the finely blasted surfaces of the case and bracelet. Close your eyes and it feels like the current lineSport in platinum, though the blasted finish is finer than that on the existing gold and platinum models. And on the wrist, it is unexpectedly elegant for a sports watch because of its height, which is just 9.5 mm. That’s slightly thicker than the Chronomètre Bleu and noticeably thinner than the lineSport Automatique Reserve. One of the most notable aspects of the watch is the bracelet, which is entirely tantalum. The nature of the alloy makes it particularly difficult to work, explaining the cost and rarity of tantalum watch cases. Tantalum bracelets are even less common. The only other brand I can t...

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Insight: When Simplicity Belies Complexity, the F.P. Journe Chronomètre Optimum SJX Watches
F.P. Journe Chronomètre Optimum Oct 23, 2023

Insight: When Simplicity Belies Complexity, the F.P. Journe Chronomètre Optimum

The Chronomètre Optimum is arguably François-Paul Journe’s most complex no-complication creation. Being a time-only watch, the Chronomètre Optimum displays the same amount of information as the entry-level Chronomètre Souveraine, albeit for more than twice the price, with the Chronomètre Optimum retailing for US$129,500 in platinum and a bit less in gold. On a pleasantly asymmetric dial, the Chronomètre Optimum presents the wearer with the time, down to the second, and a power reserve indicator. Plain as the dial might seem, the Chronomètre Optimum’s appeal lies in its inner, and largely hidden, complexity. In fact, the cal. 1510 within ranks among the most sophisticated time-only movements on the market today. Chronometry Historically the tourbillon was never a complication, though it is often regarded as such today – though some prominent collectors disagree. In this context, it is difficult to label the features of the Chronomètre Optimum true complications. But since the timepiece was designed with chronometry in mind, its features of engineered accuracy might just qualify as a complication. Chronometry in mechanical watchmaking is regarded as a marriage between accuracy and precision, as there is a nuance between the two. Accuracy is the quality of a watch or clock to have a timekeeping deviation as close to zero as possible, whereas precision relates more to the consistency and stability of the timepiece’s rate, rather than to a temporary lack of devi...

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F.P. Journe Unveils Unique Chronographe to Benefit Monaco Charity SJX Watches
F.P. Journe Unveils Unique Chronographe Sep 7, 2026

F.P. Journe Unveils Unique Chronographe to Benefit Monaco Charity

F.P. Journe and H.S.H. Prince Albert II of Monaco have announced the creation of the one-off Chronographe Fondation Prince Albert II De Monaco for the monarch’s upcoming charity auction. The Chronographe Fondation evolves the movement architecture of the Chronographe FB and adds the burgundy-and-bone livery that has become a calling card of the brand’s support for the Monaco-based charity. H.S.H. Prince Albert II of Monaco and François-Paul Journe. Image – F.P. Journe Initial thoughts The design is undeniably busy with a mix contrasting colours and fonts. Yet taste is almost beside the point, since rare F.P. Journe watches with striking dials are amongst the hottest watches in the world at the moment. It also arrives amid sustained demand for unique watches created for charity. While unlikely to match the expected result of the Rolex Daytona “Four Seasons” set, it combines several proven ingredients that should supercharge its value. Stylistically, the watch is consistent with F.P. Journe’s three prior creations for the Foundation: the 2018 Chronographe Rattrapante, the Chronomètre Optimum of 2022, and the Chronomètre à Résonance of 2024. The latter hammered for US$2.98 million, setting a lofty precedent. The similar Chronographe FB retailed for CHF90,000 in 2024, but this point of reference is purely academic — uniqueness and charity will determine the result, and the Resonance result suggests both can overwhelm any conventional sense of value. Burgundy...

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Introducing - The Armin Strom Dual Time GMT Resonance Manufacture Edition Blue Monochrome
Armin Strom Dual Time GMT Resonance Sep 3, 2026

Introducing - The Armin Strom Dual Time GMT Resonance Manufacture Edition Blue

The Dual Time GMT Resonance is one of Armin Strom’s signature creations, first launched in 2018, revisited in 2024 and presented in several distinctive editions, including the steel-cased Black Edition, the rose-gold version with a black-and-gold dial, and, most recently, the Aventurine edition. Now, the new Dual Time GMT Resonance Manufacture Edition Blue offers a […]

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Auctions: Auction House Phillips Walks Back Claim Early Résonance Delivered in 1999 After F.P. Journe Statement Hodinkee
F.P. Journe Statement Auction house Phillips Aug 31, 2026

Auctions: Auction House Phillips Walks Back Claim Early Résonance Delivered in 1999 After F.P. Journe Statement

Auction house Phillips has walked back and corrected a claim that an early, pre-production Chronmètre à Résonance watch, set to come up for sale in November, was delivered in 1999 after the watchmaker F.P. Journe said it arrived the next year and wasn't the first example of the reference sent to a customer.  "We stand corrected thanks to François-Paul Journe," Phillips said in an Instagram post.  "The "Pre-Production" Chronomètre à Résonance 022/99 to be offered by Phillips in Association with Bacs & Russo on November 7-8 was not delivered in 1999 as we originally believed. Thanks to F.P.Journe we now know the watch was actually delivered on 8 June, 2000," the auction house added.  The Phillips correction followed the publication of a letter signed by F.P. Journe that disputed Phillips' claim that the watch with serial number 022/99 was likely one of the first Résonance watches commercially sold and delivered. In announcing the sale of the watch, which will hit the auction block in November in Geneva, Phillips had said the consignor and original owner of the watch had taken delivery of the piece in 1999. The auction house also suggested in a press release that the watch could be one of, if not the first, commercially delivered examples of the Résonance, often heralded as the signature watch from the French watchmaker. Phillips did not say it had confirmed that the watch was the first of the reference commercially delivered.  In the letter titled "Correction," ...

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Auctions: Phillips Announces Sale Of A Pre-Production  F.P. Journe Chronomètre à Résonance In November Hodinkee
F.P. Journe Chronomètre à Résonance Jul 17, 2026

Auctions: Phillips Announces Sale Of A Pre-Production  F.P. Journe Chronomètre à Résonance In November

Here we go again. It's been a blue ribbon auction year so far, particularly for rare examples of timepieces from independents, including F.P. Journe. During a record-setting spring auction season marked by a stunning shift in valuations and collector interest in top-notch independent watchmakers, an early Chronomètre à Résonance (no. 007) fetched a record $13.9 million, making it the most expensive F.P. Journe watch ever sold at auction and the fifth most expensive watch of all time.  Mark wrote up a great piece on the record-breaking result that dives deep into the history of the Résonance and why it's such an important achievement in haute horology, and why it is François-Paul Journe's signature watch. With the prototype produced in 1998, and with 'Souscription' commercial pieces produced and delivered beginning in 2000, Journe's Chronomètre à Résonance marks the first time that the concept of "résonance," combining two movements with separate balances into a single case and bringing them into perfect synchronization, was brought to a wristwatch. For many collectors, the model represents the ultimate expression of Journe's vision and talent as a watchmaker. Just 20 'Souscription' pieces—offered to those who bought Journe's first watch, a tourbillon—were produced, and collectors have come to covet the series, with the earliest watches fetching a premium. When it comes to the Résonance, the earlier the better, it seems. That's why it's newsworthy and worth ...

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Introducing: The Seiko Astron GPS Solar Dual-Time Chronograph In Crystal Green And Crystal Pink Summer “Flavors” Fratello
Seiko Astron GPS Solar Dual-Time Jun 2, 2026

Introducing: The Seiko Astron GPS Solar Dual-Time Chronograph In Crystal Green And Crystal Pink Summer “Flavors”

Shortly after Seiko released four revamped Astron GPS Solar Dual-Time Chronographs for its 145th anniversary, the Japanese brand drops two fresh new summer “flavors.” No, they’re not pistachio and raspberry ice cream —although, come to think of it, matcha (green tea) and sakura (cherry blossom) ice cream would make more sense — but instead, Crystal […] Visit Introducing: The Seiko Astron GPS Solar Dual-Time Chronograph In Crystal Green And Crystal Pink Summer “Flavors” to read the full article.

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Hands On: Vacheron Constantin Overseas Dual Time “Cardinal Points” SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Overseas Dual Time “Cardinal May 14, 2026

Hands On: Vacheron Constantin Overseas Dual Time “Cardinal Points”

The Vacheron Constantin (VC) Overseas Dual Time “Cardinal Points” was one of the most talked about releases of Watches & Wonders — despite being a somewhat predictable, incremental upgrade to an existing model. The response is indicative of strong product/market fit and the transformative power of colour and texture. Initial thoughts By all accounts, the Overseas Ultra-Thin ref. 2500V should have been the talk of the VC booth at Watches & Wonders. The copper-dialled platinum edition recalls one of the most sought-after models in the Overseas canon, and introduced a new micro-rotor movement that feels destined to be a big part of the brand’s movement strategy going forward. But it was the Overseas Dual Time that seemed to get people talking, despite its predictability and the fact that it’s a much more incremental update to an existing model. In my view, there are three reasons for this. First and foremost, it’s a perfectly targeted product, aimed at a well of unmet demand that has been simmering since the the titanium Dual Time was first teased seven years ago. The high/low contrast between the industrial-haute horlogerie build quality and the sporty aesthetic is inherently appealing. In some ways it feels like the perfect watch for locales like Sun Valley or Davos — the dual-time functionality is purpose-built for vacations (and economic forums) and the colours and textures will pair well with Mammut or Patagonia. Second, all four editions — named for the ...

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Home-Made Grande Sonnerie Wins 2026 F.P. Journe Young Talent Competition SJX Watches
F.P. Journe Young Talent Competition Shin Apr 27, 2026

Home-Made Grande Sonnerie Wins 2026 F.P. Journe Young Talent Competition

Shin Ohno is the winner of the 12th F.P. Journe Young Talent Competition. The young Japanese watchmaker clinched the prize with the Fuyu-Geshiki, a small grande et petite sonnerie tourbillon clock inspired by the winter landscape of Nagano, a northern prefecture of Japan. Made by one man with a watchmaker’s lathe, desktop CNC mill, and not a lot of sleep, the ebony-cased timepiece is one of the most impressive works produced by the competition yet. From Nagano Mr Ohno describes Nagano as “defined by the purity of its air, by the flow of spring water, and by melting snow”. It is also the heart of Japan’s watch industry, boasting the country’s largest movement assembly plant (Citizen’s Saku plant) and is home to Mr Ohno’s employer — Seiko Epson. Specifically, Mr Ohno works as an engineer within the company’s watch division, but it should be noted that this timepiece is entirely unrelated to the (now discontinued) Credor Spring Drive Sonnerie and Credor Minute Repeater. Mr Ohno designed the movement from the ground up, citing the creative works of past winner Norifumi Seki and Masahiro Kikuno as key inspirations. A closer look at the tourbillon cage. The teeth are polished to catch the light like slick stones. While he learned how to design watch parts at his day job, it was someone else’s job to manufacture them. With the Fuyu-Geshiki, Mr Ohno had to master production as well as design. He cites his colleague, master watchmaker Ikukiyo Komatsu, as a mento...

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If You Were Climbing Mount Everest Tomorrow: The New Vacheron Constantin Overseas Dual Time Cardinal Points Fratello
Vacheron Constantin Overseas Dual Time Cardinal Apr 13, 2026

If You Were Climbing Mount Everest Tomorrow: The New Vacheron Constantin Overseas Dual Time Cardinal Points

Vacheron Constantin has just introduced a production version of its sporty Overseas titanium GMT model. The new Overseas Dual Time Cardinal Points builds on the foundation laid by the legendary limited edition “Everest” model from 2021. That watch was itself inspired by a one-of-one prototype in titanium and tantalum with a dark gray dial and […] Visit If You Were Climbing Mount Everest Tomorrow: The New Vacheron Constantin Overseas Dual Time Cardinal Points to read the full article.

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Revisiting The Vacheron Constantin Overseas Dual Time: The Ultimate Luxury Travel Watch WatchAdvice
Vacheron Constantin Overseas Dual Time Mar 25, 2026

Revisiting The Vacheron Constantin Overseas Dual Time: The Ultimate Luxury Travel Watch

Is the Vacheron Constantin Overseas Dual Time the ultimate luxury travel watch? We went hands-on to find out! What We Love The versatility of the piece, being a sports watch that dresses up or down Ease of use of the Dual Time function and quick set date The brushed silver dial really stands out with an easy-to-read layout. What We Don’t The watch can wear on the larger side, especially on the bracelet The bezel is prone to surface marks, like most polished metal bezels The strap thickness at the base tends to flare out a little, depending on your wrist shape and size Overall Rating: 8.75 / 10 Value for Money: 8/10 Wearability: 8.5/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 9.5/10 This article was originally published as Vacheron Constantin Overseas Dual Time Review: Is It The Ultimate Luxury Travel Watch? There’s something special about a watch that can seamlessly blend luxury with everyday practicality – and that’s exactly what Vacheron Constantin has achieved with the Overseas Dual Time. As part of the brand’s legendary Overseas collection, this piece is designed for those who appreciate fine watchmaking but also need something versatile enough to handle life on the move. With its sporty yet sophisticated aesthetic, an in-house movement built for precision, and a clever dual-time function that makes tracking multiple time zones effortless, the Overseas Dual Time is a serious contender for the ultimate travel watch, which for a guy who has a Rolex GMT “Batgirl” as ...

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