Results for Retrograde Display

Dennison Splits Up Its Stone Dials To Display Its New Dual Time

Introducing – Indie Brand Guebly Updates Its Initial Concept with the new CH1 Rétrograde

Guebly isn’t an old brand. On the contrary, it’s a recently created independent watchmaking company that released its very first watch, the Prologue or Chapter 1, only a year ago. Guebly is the brainchild of Adnane Kerd, a collector who turned watch entrepreneur. A sober luxury sports watch that showed great attention to detail and […]

Happenings: Astronaut Charles "Pete" Conrad, Jr.'s Speedmaster On Display At The Kennedy Space Center Visitor Complex

The watch that made it to the Moon has touched down in Florida.

Introducing the Kudoke 5, with a 24-Hour Display and a Slimmer Case

In 2019, the last year of Baselworld, I remember roaming the hall of AHCI and visiting Stefan and Ev Kudoke to see their new Kudoke 1 and Kudoke 2 models. The Kudoke 2 was an instant winner for me with the small hand engraved 24-hour day/night disc. Later that year, the Kudoke 2 won the “Petite Aiguille” GPHG award for the best watch under CHF 10,000. This put Kudoke as a brand on every collector’s radar.  My first impression of the Kudoke 5 is that it is a natural progression or a logical conclusion to the K2 model with the 24-hour day/night disc as the dial. While the small disc in the K2 works as a nice indicator, the full blown 24-hour dial with a large day/night sky is more poetic and truly feels like it naturally belongs as a dial.  The other noticeable thing about the K5 is that it is a brand-new case that is much slimmer than the previous models. It is officially listed at 7mm without the domed crystal (it’s 38mm in diameter and 47mm from lug to lug). Even though the domed crystal on the watch presented in Geneva last month was a prototype, it did not appear to add any height to the watch. This is the slimmest Kudoke watch I have seen.  According to Stefan, engraving the day/night disc is a complex process involving relief engraving. The stars, moon, and triangle remain in place during engraving and the rest of the elements must be lowered. The whole engraving process takes several days. The biggest challenge he faces is not denting the disc during this ...

Introducing – The Novel Display of the Ochs und Junior Two Time Zones + Date

Dr Ludwig Oechslin has a talent for simplifying complications. Using the Bauhaus principle of “less is more”, his Ochs & Junior brand tackles complications with ingenious solutions and as few components as possible. The latest GMT model, aka the Due Ore Mese, ups the complexity and power of the earlier Due Ore. Packing a date […]

Hands-On: Patek Philippe Ref. 6159G Perpetual Calendar Retrograde Date

Patek expands its smoked sapphire dial collection with a second new release.

Introducing: The Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar Retrograde Date Reference 6159G-001

The smoked sapphire dial from Patek is no longer just a one-off. It's apparently here to stay.

First Look – Young Brand Beda’a Presents its Eclipse II, with Jumping Hour Display

Founded in 2016 by Qatari entrepreneur Hader Al Suwaidi, Beda’a was born from the vision that the Middle East region could be not just a market for luxury watches, but also a contributor to the industry. The brand’s trajectory is now shaped by engineer-designer Sohaib Maghnam acting as CEO and Chief Designer. Before joining Beda’a […]

Hands-On: Gagà Laboratorio Labormatic – An Italian Take On A Creative Time Display From Designer Mo Coppoletta

Known for his tattoo work, artist Mo Coppoletta has a new design role at an upstart brand.

Dispatch: Motorsport’s Ultimate Trophy Doesn’t Live In A Display Case

It's so much more than a carrot at the end of your AD's waitlist. Don't believe me? Ask the drivers who've won a Daytona (and those who haven't).

First Look – The Louis Vuitton Tambour Convergence, a New Take on the Guichet Display

While the redefinition of the Tambour in 2023 and the work done on the Escale in 2024 were somehow expected and natural developments for the watch division of Louis Vuitton, this year’s run of new models is more exotic, to say the least. First and foremost was the work done to revamp the emblematic Spin […]

Introducing – Japanese Watchmaker Otsuka Lotec Presents the No.5 KAI, With Satellite Hour Display

A not-so-young-brand that only appeared recently on the international scene and an independent watchmaker that we’ve named Japan’s new sensation, Otsuka Lotec is the brainchild of watchmaker Jiro Katayama. Even though these watches are extremely hard to get outside of Japan (yes, that means pure JDM coolness), the brand has started to gain recognition and […]

First Look – The Bovet Récital 21 Retrograde Perpetual Calendar Becomes Sleeker with Sapphire Dials

Bovet’s watchmaking universe is characterised by incredibly complex timepieces staged with dramatic flair and decorated to unparalleled standards. Founded in 1822, Pascal Raffy breathed new life into Bovet to create a highly niche connoisseur brand. While classical complications and centuries-old decorative techniques abound, Bovet is no stranger to the potential of sapphire crystals and luminescence […]

Urwerk’s Latest Sting Is A UR-150 Scorpion With Retrograde Action

Introducing: The Urwerk UR-150 'Scorpion,' With An Entirely New, Bold Satellite Display

Most of the time, it's a slow-moving watch but once an hour, it's got a lightning-fast sting.

First Look – The New CVDK Grand Planetarium Eccentric, The Only Mechanical Planetarium Watch To Display All 8 Planets

Christiaan van der Klaauw is one the most famous watchmakers in the Netherlands, and has gained fame for being possibly the best advocate of astronomical watches – in fact, this has even become the subtitle of the CVDK brand. Since 1974, this genius clock and watchmaker has produced some of the most beautiful and complicated […]

H. Moser & Cie. Presents A Whimsical Yet Serious Pioneer Retrograde Seconds

H. Moser Gets a Little Whimsical with the Pioneer Retrograde Seconds “Midnight Blue”

As watch enthusiasts, we all have our weaknesses. Some feature or design quirk that makes very little sense in practical terms, but nonetheless appeals to us in ways we can barely even describe. Something that falls into this category for me is the “useless” complication. A complication that doesn’t really have much of a functional purpose at all, but is just sort of there was a watchmaking flex. There are all kinds of strange time telling displays that fall into this category, plus your deeply anachronistic complications like integrated barometers, scales that tell you the age of the moon, or perhaps even a secular perpetual calendar that no one alive today will be able to see in action. Then there are retrograde displays, which while not exactly “useless” certainly tend to be, well, maybe unnecessary is a better word. But the vaguely violent snapping back of a hand when it reaches the end of the display has a real pull.  If that sort of mechanical violence is up your alley, Moser’s latest is a watch you should investigate. The Pioneer Retrograde Seconds in Midnight Blue takes your normal, everyday Pioneer and juices it significantly with a retrograde seconds display at the bottom of the dial that snaps back every thirty seconds. That makes for a dial with a lot of action, with a second hand moving twice as fast as it normally would, interrupted every thirty seconds with an action that, to witness it, you’d surely think would cause some manner of mechanical...

Louis Vuitton Puts Its Mastery of Fine Watchmaking on Full Display with the New ‘Escale à Asnières’ Pocket Watch

Buying Guide – Five Highly Original and Creative Retrograde Watches

It’s common knowledge that the vast majority of watches use centrally mounted hands continuously rotating 360 degrees in a clockwise direction to tell time down to the hours and minutes, and most often the seconds. Often the seconds indication is moved to 6′ or 9′ and has its own separate sub-dial, but that pretty much […]

Beda’a Unveils the Eclipse with an Interesting Time Display

First Look – The Kauri Régulateur Carbone, a Modern Retrograde Minute & Jumping Hours Regulator

Kauri is an independent watchmaking brand recently founded by Samuel Gillioz. This young watchmaker studied at the École d’Horlogerie de Genève before gaining experience at Timelab and Vacheron Constantin in the highly respected Cabinotiers workshop. In 2019, Samuel Gillioz launched Kauri with the vision of creating something unique and original. The main specificity of his […]

Introducing – The New Dial Colour of the Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Manual-Winding and Moon Phase Retrograde Date

As the world’s oldest watch manufacturer in continuous production since 1755, Vacheron Constantin can be proud of its distinguished heritage. With a rich archive at its disposition, the brand can dip into over two and a half centuries for inspiration. The Patrimony collection made its debut in 2004 and turned its gaze back to the […]

Laurent Ferrier at Watches & Wonders 2024: The Classic Moon new annual calendar with a gorgeous moon phase display

Introducing – The Urwerk UR-100V LightSpeed, With An Unprecedented Space-Themed Display

Numbers can be reassuring in a world of change and upheaval. One constant and finite number is the speed of light, a numerical value used to measure distances with extraordinary precision. Urwerk‘s latest take on the UR-100V gravitates around the speed of light, or, rather, the time it takes the Sun’s rays to reach eight […]

Longines Revives Novel Central Power Reserve Display

Longines’ latest launch is unexpected in featuring a novel take on a useful complication: the Conquest Heritage Central Power Reserve has a power reserve indicator positioned at the centre of the dial, on the same axis as the hands. Though unusual, the central power reserve is actually found in the Conquest ref. 9028 from 1959, making this something of a vintage remake, which makes its debut just in time for the 70th anniversary of the Conquest collection. Initial thoughts The current Conquest collection is somewhat forgotten because it’s positioned between Longines’ sports watches like the Spirit and the vintage-inspired Heritage and Master models. Fortunately the new Conquest is interesting enough to stand out. Even though it’s not a new invention, the central power reserve indicator is uncommon. Furthermore, this particular power reserve display is a clever two-disc construction that makes the indicator a bit more life, so it adds visual flair to the dial. The central power reserve is arguably more legible than conventional indicators that are smaller. At the same time it gives the dial a pleasing symmetrical layout. Because of the symmetry, the date indicator at 12 actually works well and improves the dial design. Perhaps only downside of the design is the seemingly chunky case. Like many other Longines models, this Conquest appears to have thick lugs despite being fairly compact in diameter. In terms of price, the Conquest Heritage Central Power Reserve is mor...

Citizen Brings an Advanced Moonphase Display to their Line of Eco-Drive Powered Atomic Timekeepers

Celebrating 30 years since the release of Citizen’s first atomic timekeeping watch, the new Tsuki-yoma A-T shows the evolution of the brand’s technical prowess and Citizen’s penchant for looking skyward for inspiration. Named after the ancient Japanese moon god, the Tsuki-yomi collection lives up to its namesake. Informed by a mathematical formula developed by Citizen, this watch calculates the phase of the moon each day from signals received from multi-band radio transmitters. These signals then are interpreted at the 6 o’clock mark of the dial, adjusting as the natural phases of the move wax and wane throughout the month. Technically speaking, that’s not even the most impressive feature of this watch’s use of the Luna Program technology. The watch will also switch the moon phase display to match the view either from the Northern or Southern Hemisphere, leaving wearers to easily navigate from Australia to New Mexico without having to manually change the moon phases yourself.  The dial is finished with a world time subdial in 24 time zones, a perpetual calendar, and day-date functionality at 4 o’clock. The watch comes in three colorways, blue, silver, and red. Each is housed in a 43mm scratch-resistant Super Titanium case with a sapphire crystal, each durably made to be taken on your next adventure. All three references are powered by the atomic timekeeping movement, Eco-Drive 2 Cal. H874, which can run for upwards of 2.5 years on a full charge.  The Tsuki-...

Hands-On: Putting The Vacheron Constantin Overseas Moon Phase Retrograde Date Through Its Paces In Iceland

Over land and ice to understand the Overseas.

Wilbur Watch Co. Introduces the LEO, an Area 51 Inspired Watch with a Unique Jumping Hour Display

Here at Worn & Wound, we’re all pretty big fans of watches that approach time telling in an unusual way. In our collections you’ll find regulators, watches with offset dials and movements exposed from the front, watches with no numerals or indices at all, and you might even catch a d.m.h jump hour if you spend enough time on our Instagram feeds. The watch we’re looking at today, the LEO by Wilbur Watch Co., actually feels like an evolution of the d.m.h format – it’s a jumping hour mechanism that’s highly complex, but yields a surprisingly intuitive method for reading the time. And it comes in a big, bold package, partially inspired by a fascination with stories of extraterrestrials coming out of Roswell, NM and Area 51. So, you know, just a normal, everyday kind of watch.  At the heart of the LEO is what the brand refers to as the Engine One movement, an automatic, Swiss made caliber, designed by Wilbur Watch Co. Time is told via two discs on either side of the dial, one transparent sapphire, the other aluminum. The discs are each marked with symbols that look like hieroglyphics, which is part of the alien inspiration for the piece. Those symbols are designed to fit together to form numerals, though, as the discs rotate. The hour is read at the dead center of the dial, outlined with a bright blue ring, where the two rings meet. The minutes are read via a rotating ring at the outside of the dial (an arrow right below the hour indicator points to the current min...

Hands-On: The Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Tourbillon Retrograde Date Openface

Vacheron gives us a look at what it takes to stand out amongst open-dialed watches