2,112 articles · 335 videos found · page 60 of 82
Revolution
Eleonor Picciotto, Editor-at-Large of Revolution, and Wei Koh, Founder of Revolution, sit down with Zenith CEO Julien Tornare to find out more about the 2023 renditions of the Zenith Pilot. The manufacture debuted a diverse array of novelties at Watches and Wonders 2023. Among these were the Zenith Pilot Big Date Flyback, Zenith Pilot Automatic, […]
![[VIDEO] Chopard Grants Alpine Eagle L.U.C Movement In New 41XPS](https://wornandwound.com/library/uploads/2023/03/Chopard_AlpineEagle41XPS_5.webp)
Worn & Wound
Chopard expanded their Alpine Eagle collection in big ways this year, with the introduction of the new high-beat Cadence that gets a full titanium case and bracelet, and they’ve finally given the watch one of their lovely L.U.C calibers. This is the new Alpine Eagle 41XPS featuring the 96.40-L micro-rotor movement. It’s extra thin and extra beautiful as a result, mated to a salmon dial with no date, and a subsidiary seconds at 6 o’clock. This isn’t the only new watch to receive this movement, as it can also be found in the stunning L.U.C 1860, which feels a more natural habitat for such a movement, leaving the jump to the Alpine Eagle collection all the more welcome. The Alpine Eagle 41XPS is, as you might have guessed, built in the 41mm case using Chopard’s Lucent Steel A223, an alloy that incorporates a high amount of recycled steel, and is smelted multiple times for increased hardness and brightness. It’s quite lovely in person, though I don’t know I’d be able to place it as something different without that knowledge beforehand. It’s worth noting the Chopard is working to transition more of their steel watches to Lucent steel in the coming years. The 41XPS uses the L.U.C 96.40-L caliber, which itself is a shade over 3mm in thickness allowing for an exceptionally thin case. It’s COSC certified and quite a looker through the exhibition caseback. Its placement within the Alpine Eagle collection pushes this steel watch into a different price realm, at ...
Time+Tide
For Watches & Wonders 2023, IWC have introduced three new references of IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41. Among the new trio are new cases in Oceana blue ceramic and 18k 5N gold. The Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar is also now available with a racing green dial. IWC releasing more variety of Pilot’s Watches should … ContinuedThe post IWC’s Pilot’s Watch line-up gets four new additions appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
A Lange & Sohne came to Watches & Wonders with just a single release this year, and that’s all they needed to make a big impression. The watch is a new member of the Odysseus family, and it welcomes the brand’s first automatic chronograph. Like all of Lange chronograph movements, the new L156.1 within this watch is quite special, both mechanically and aesthetically. It should come as no surprise that the Odysseus platform accepts a chronograph compilation with ease, given the existing set of pushers that are integrated into the case, which are normally used to adjust the day and date. They still are, however their main function has been shifted to operating the chronograph. The Odysseus Chronograph retains the outsized day and date apertures at 9 and 3 o’clock respectively, as well as a running seconds hand nested at 6 o’clock. There are no other sub dials present. The timing seconds and minute hands are stacked together and centrally mounted, just like the equally fabulous Sinn EZM1. When started, the red anodized aluminum timing seconds hand kicks into action, and the second timing hand records each minute that passes, up to 60 minutes. One unique detail here worth noting is that, when reset, that seconds hand will retrace every lap it’s taken around the dial. So if you’ve timed something for 15 minutes before resetting, the seconds hand will make 15 laps in quick succession back to its starting place. These operations are routed through the integrated pusher...
SJX Watches
Grand Seiko made a big splash at last year’s Watches & Wonders with the launch of the Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon, the brand’s first complicated mechanical wristwatch. For 2023, the brand is back with another first-time complication that will likely be one of the most talked-about watches of the show, the Grand Seiko Tentagraph SLGC001. The first purely mechanical Grand Seiko chronograph ever, the Tentagraph is a high-spec sports chronograph that fills a hole in the Grand Seiko portfolio. “Tentagraph” is a portmanteau of the four key features of the watch: TEN beats per second, Three-day power reserve, Automatic winding, and of course, the chronoGRAPH. Initial thoughts The Tentagraph is an important watch for Grand Seiko that enables the brand to stand toe to toe with Rolex, Omega, Zenith, Breitling, and other stalwarts in the popular category of mechanical sports chronograph. Not only is the category a hitherto untapped commercial opportunity for Grand Seiko, it is an opportunity for the brand to demonstrate its technical know-how and ambition. In this context, I would have expected the brand to release an integrated chronograph movement, perhaps based on the 6S movement family. But Grand Seiko has chosen to build a modular chronograph calibre based on the 9SA5, the flagship Grand Seiko automatic movement introduced in 2020, signalling the brand’s commitment to the calibre and its proprietary Dual Impulse Escapement. My colleague Richard Lee notes that the 9S...
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Time+Tide
While IWC is rightly known for their wide range of classic Pilot’s watches, including the Big Wrist Energy radiating from their Big Pilot’s models, their many chronograph references, and the flieger-style Mark series, there’s another name that’s no less important in their history: The Ingenieur. First developed in the 1950s for technical and scientific applications, … ContinuedThe post Engineering a classic: The history of IWC’s Ingenieur appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
Sometimes a brand will launch a new watch line to intense fanfare, and then seem to forget about it, letting it twist in the proverbial wind while diligently shoring up other more proven collections. It’s a big gamble to launch a new watch collection, and timing follow ups after a big introduction is an inexact science at best. Norqain, with the launch of the Wild One last fall, has taken an aggressive approach to getting the word about their new high end sports watch, with quick follow ups that expand the palate of what the Wild One can be, and rapidly familiarize the watch community with the new platform. The latest Wild One has a distinct aesthetic impact, and also serves to highlight a new Norqain partnership, all based around a location that is of genuine importance to the brand. The Wild One Zermatt Unplugged Special Edition celebrates Norqain’s involvement in the Zermatt Unplugged music festival, which occurs annually in the picturesque Swiss ski village at the base of the Matterhorn. Zermatt is also the location of Norqain’s flagship boutique, and as a center of outdoor sport it falls right in line with the brand’s bent towards adventure. To bolster their ties to the music festival, Norqain is offering a limited number of the new watches as part of a package that includes a two night stay in Zermatt during the festival along with a VIP ticket and a day of skiing with Olympic medalists Tina Weirather and Ramon Zenhäusern, who are also Norqain ambassadors....
Worn & Wound
Welcome to the Worn & Wound Micro-Brand Digest, a semi-monthly roundup of all the new micro-brand news we’re following, from concepts that show promise, to kickstarter launches to restocks, and everything in between. Small independents, and affordable micro-brands spurred the creation of Worn & Wound over 10 years ago, and they still drive our enthusiasm in a big way. Here’s what’s caught our eye this month. If you’ve come across a project you think qualifies, hit us up at info@wornandwound.com for inclusion. Gyavius Watch Company NAVI The Sophomore release from a brand called Gyavius represents a serious jump forward, and dabbles in the rarely seen fixed lug bar space. The watch, which is called the NAVI, has just launched its batch 1 order window, and it represents a healthy step in an original direction when it comes to dive watches from micro-brands. The NAVI is a 45mm dive watch with a fixed lug bar allowing a pass through strap, and allowing for a rather organic looking case shape overall that might wear a bit better than the numbers might suggest. But those numbers are there for a reason, this is a 100ATM diver, tested to 1000M of pressure. Do any of us need that much depth resistance? Absolutely not, but hey, it’s a pretty cool watch and if you’re going to go big, you may as well go all the way. The matte dial gets a generous helping of pad printed lume with hand applied green lume overtop for a maximum visibility and a pretty cool look. Inside you...
Time+Tide
Panerai recently celebrated the opening of their first Australian stand-alone boutique with an event at the new store in Sydney’s King Street peppered with all the Italian flair and charisma their clients have come to expect from the brand. While the availability of Panerai in Australia is not new and may not seem like big … ContinuedThe post Panerai celebrate the opening of their first stand-alone boutique in Australia appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
“Three, two, one … GO!” Leif Mumma stabs the hard-packed snow with his ski poles and launches himself out of the start gate. He immediately takes a different, more central line down the steep Ozone face. By the looks of his sheer speed and direct approach, he’s charging hard, taking the mountain head-on. Judging his quick decision making and go-big-or-go-home style, you wouldn’t think that this is Mumma’s first rodeo, but it is. He’s just a rookie on the Freeride World Tour. With a handful of speed, Mumma dramatically cuts in and out, just holding onto his ski’s edges down what seems to be one of thinner areas on the mountain face. He makes one technical jump off a rock face, lands, then cuts right. Then another. As Mumma dances around several spruce trees, the oohs and aahs arise from the spectators along the opposite ridge. At that moment, we’re all witnessing poetry in motion. All Downhill From Here Suddenly, an audible crack breaks the excitement. The mountain face starts to erupt on Mumma’s left as he completes a 20 foot jump. Whatever snow that was settled along the lower center portion of the face has now released, rushing down like a raging waterfall. Mumma is just out of the avalanche’s grip as he attempts his last trick. Out of nowhere Mumma’s ski gets caught by a sharkie (an exposed rock in a sea of snow that resembles a shark’s dorsal fin). He’s projected off of the face, his arms and poles flapping like a wingless bird, and his body...
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Worn & Wound
Farer has revealed a new collection called the Moonphase this week, and in true Farer style, have put their own unique spin on the design across a trio of references, all while acknowledging historic British figures in the process. The Moonphase collection features a big personality within a trim 38.5mm case that’s not shy on details itself, but the star of the show is undoubtedly the enormous moon depicted within the aperture that dominates the top half of the dial. Each example features a slightly different moon, inspired by the broad range of colors it can adopt depending on the conditions. The Farer Moonphase makes a big impression at a glance thanks to the larger moonphase aperture situated above the hand stack, but below and within the hour markers. It’s a similar layout to the Arnold & Son Perpetual Moonphase, among others, however Farer is bringing the design to a far more accessible and, dare we say, fun execution with their Moonphase. Each phase the moon goes through is indexed along the top arc of the aperture, providing a welcome practical nod to the romantic complication. The moon itself differs between each of the watches, going from light pink in the Burbidge, to warm yellow in the Halley, and finally a neutral eggshell in the Eddington. The depictions reference the different hues the moon takes to our eyes, viewing it through different atmospheric conditions and angles. The moons themselves are hand-painted in Geneva using grade OL X1 Super-LumiNova. Fa...
Worn & Wound
Readers, we’re here. Watches & Wonders is later this month, which means we are fully entrenched in new release season. We’ve seen some big news come across our desks since the beginning of the year, but if recent patterns hold, we can expect a flurry of activity from brands that do not participate in the year’s biggest trade show showing off their first round of novelties in the weeks ahead, likely in an attempt to bring eyeballs to their new watches before the world turns its attention once again to what’s happening in those cavernous Palexpo halls. Swatch Group brands are part of the watch world that takes a pass on Watches & Wonders, so we’ve been seeing an uptick in activity recently from group brands in the way of new product announcements. We already covered news of one Tissot new release this week, and now we have another in the PRX family. The PRX line has quickly become a centerpiece of the larger Tissot catalog. These are integrated bracelet sports watches that are affordably priced, have an attractive 1970s aesthetic, and have surprisingly accomplished finishing when examined in person. The PRX chronograph, in particular, has struck a chord with collectors, and has to this point been released in a handful of attractive, but traditional, colorways, while the three hand variants of the PRX offer slightly more variety. The new chronograph introduced recently by Tissot is a striking blue panda configuration, with a silver dial and dark blue subdials ...
Time+Tide
If you spend any time on the watch internet whatsoever, you’ll quickly become familiar with ETA and Sellita, eventually recognising Kenissi, Vaucher and others. While the big two manufacturers are responsible for most of the industry’s Swiss movement supply, with other smaller ones filling the gaps, notable manufacturers are often underappreciated. One such maker is … ContinuedThe post THE Plus are specialists in Swiss production, and could be the future of “in-house” movements appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
Sinn has released a new midsize diver with some big time specs to kick off their 2023 releases with the new T50. This is a watch that may seem familiar at a glance, as a follow up to the popular U50 released in 2020, but there’s plenty new here to set plenty of distance between the two, the biggest of which are the use of new materials, which include titanium and a new Sinn developed alloy called Goldbronze. This is a proprietary material that boasts some unique features in the service of longevity and functionality in true Sinn fashion. It looks pretty good, too. The T50 arrives in three main configurations, going from full Goldbronze in a limited edition 125, to a mix of titanium and Goldbronze in the GBDR, and finally a fully titanium example that forgoes the use of Goldbronze altogether. All look to share the same mid case design and proportions of the 41mm U50, which is a very good thing (see our review of the U50 here). This rather svelte and wearable package gets a remarkably stout 500 meter depth rating, and with the T50 adds Sinn’s Ar‑Dehumidifying inside the bottom left lug. The dial and bezel present the biggest departure from the U50 design language, departing from the brutal blocky design of the hands and hour markers in favor of a more approachable look that utilizes bar shaped hour markers and a pair of broadsword hands. The look may be more palatable to those who found the U50 a touch too aggressive, however it comes at the expense of a distinctivel...
Worn & Wound
2022 was a big year for the Windup Watch Fair. We expanded our San Francisco and New York City events and launched a brand new Fair in Chicago. Thanks to the support of the Worn & Wound community, each event was more well-attended than the last. Heading into 2023, we’re excited to build on this momentum with even bigger and better events. For the uninitiated, Windup is a three-day-long shopping event that brings watch brands and customers together in a fun, approachable, and engaging environment. Always free and open to the public, Windup encourages everyone from seasoned collectors to first-time watch buyers to come in, take a look, and talk watches. Here’s a quick recap of our most recent event in NYC to give you a sneak peek of what to expect. If you own or represent a brand and are interested in participating in Windup this year (or partnering with Worn & Wound in other ways), please click here to complete a short questionnaire. Now, onto the 2023 schedule of events! San Francisco – Friday, April 28 through Sunday, April 30, 2023 After successfully expanding the San Francisco Windup Watch Fair into a new venue in 2022, we’re excited to be kicking off the 2023 Fair schedule at the same location, the Terra Gallery (511 Harrison Street), this time occupying both the first and second floors of the facility. That’s right, this year’s San Francisco Fair will be even bigger than the last, with 60+ presenting brands and, for the first time in San Francisco, live pa...
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Time+Tide
When you think of a watch winder, you typically think of a big and boxy thing that you have to carve out desk or tabletop space for. And, ultimately, these winders are things you do not really ever transport – a strictly at-home solution. WOLF, however, has now developed a portable watch winder that upholds … ContinuedThe post Meet the world’s smallest travel watch winder – the WOLF Rocket appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
It’s hard to believe, but Frederique Constant celebrates their 35th anniversary this year. This is a brand that’s truly part of the old guard when it comes to the contemporary, affordable watch scene. Making the “nice Swiss watch” accessible to the masses was a big part of why the brand was founded, and over the course of their history the entire watch industry has changed multiple times over, currently finding itself in a healthy spot where more and better watches are finding their way onto the wrists of enthusiasts at a pace that couldn’t have have been imagined three decades ago. The line between “luxury” and “affordable” continues to shift, and there’s no doubt that Frederique Constant has played a role in those changes. Specifically, Frederique Constant has broken new ground when it comes to making complicated watchmaking affordable. We all know about their excellent perpetual calendar, which they are still able to sell for a little less than $10,000 several years after its debut. But they also dabble in other historically significant and tech forward complications. Over the years we’ve seen everything from flyback chronographs to moon phases equipped watches, and of course their Slimline Monolithic with an ultra high frequency oscillator. But it could be argued that their signature complication, the one that the brand has leaned into the hardest and gained the most acclaim for, is the worldtimer. So it makes sense that for Frederique Constant...
Time+Tide
We don’t talk about vintage a lot at Time + Tide, unless it’s a Very Big Deal, such as a record-breaking auction result. But what about the vintage watches that fly under the radar? Bargains are out there if you’re willing to put in the effort. To wit: vintage stopwatches are a fun, cool piece … ContinuedThe post THE UNSUNG: Unearthing bargain treasures in vintage stopwatches appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
WatchAdvice
What we like: Dial is a real head turner3D Printed Carbon case is a winnerMassive five-day power reserve What we don’t like: Some may find it to be expensiveThe fingerprints easily show on the crystal Some may not appreciate the 3D-printed case Overall rating: 7.75/10 Value for money: 7/10 Wearability: 8/10 Design: 8/10 Build quality: 8/10 2022 was a big year for the independent Swiss brand Oris. Amongst the brand’s major updates to some of its collections was the continued release of its limited edition timepieces based on ecological conservation. The last major release for Oris in 2022 was the Coulson Limited edition, a watch created from the latest partnership with Coulson Aviation. Alongside creating luxury timepieces, Oris also works in a variety of different areas to bring “Change for the Better” for the planet and its people. Oris is also now independently certified as a climate-neutral company, with the watch brand working closely with other pioneering agencies to bring the change required to make the world a better place. One of these agencies is Coulson Aviation, which Oris just recently partnered up with. Coulson Aviation is a family-run independent company based in Canada that sends out pilots, planes, and also much-needed equipment to areas of the world that are heavily affected by wildfires. The resources and help provided are split between the US and California for the Northern Hemisphere summer and for the Southern Hemisphere summer, Australia and...
Hodinkee
While the Concept's movement may be the biggest achievement, the newest flying tourbillon chronograph might be the moment the Offshore comes into its own in a new, big way.
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Time+Tide
Editor’s note: After spending a bit of time reflecting on the best moments, releases and trends of 2022, the Time+Tide team is now turning their attention to the year ahead. So we’ve assembled to present our predictions, hot takes and Hail Marys for 2023. Fergus Nash: Yellow gold should make a big comeback We’re living … ContinuedThe post The T+T Team’s watch predictions and hot takes for 2023 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Besides the Universelle grand complication, Audemars Piguet has another ace up its sleeve when it comes to its line of round watches. Originally launched a blue enamel dial, the Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet Minute Repeater Supersonnerie gains sharper aesthetics with a smoked sapphire dial and a pink gold case. Initial thoughts A big part of the appeal of a repeater is the mystifying mass of racks and levers that drive the chiming mechanism and are most often hidden under the dial. Unveiling their secret is sometimes best done with the direct approach of not having a solid dial. A clear sapphire dials is arguably perfect it for a repeater, because the complication is usually constructed on the movement’s dial side. Unlike other frontal complications such as perpetual calendars, chiming complications are highly interactive – the racks are set in motion during the chiming sequence in a mechanical dance, all while the chimes sound, a performance that elevates the appeal of the complication. And for the Code 11.59 specifically, the tinted sapphire dial works especially well. Matched with high-contrast pink gold, it is an ideal complement for the case design as it blends an otherwise classical complication with contemporary livery that matches the modern styling of the case. As a result, the new repeater is one of the most appealing watches in the Code 11.59 range, with an intrinsic appeal that few of its brethren possesess. Contemporary package While retaining the same...
Quill & Pad
It's no exaggeration to say that here at Quill & Pad we are big fans of the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso. And in 2017 Urwerk introduced its own, very robust version of a reversible watch: the UR-T8 Transformer. It's a T-Rex for the wrist that acts much like a Reverso!
Quill & Pad
The Saxon One Chronograph offers a lot of watch for the price (€4,600). It does so many things so well, but it is most of all, an original proposition. The big question for Martin Green is, strap or bracelet?
Worn & Wound
The new releases from LVMH Watch Week came to New York City last week, and of course the Worn & Wound team was there to check them out. It was the first big batch of new releases in 2023, and Bulgari, TAG Heuer, Hublot, and Zenith all brought a variety of watches to display. Here are initial impressions from Blake Buettner, Kat Shoulders, and Zach Kazan. Kat Shoulders My favorite watch from the LVMH Preview was the TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 200 Solargraph. There were no doubt higher end horology pieces at the preview, but as far as watches I’d be ready to buy on the spot, this one won the day for me. I’ve been known amongst the Worn and Wound crew to not be a huge titanium lover, and quite honestly, I’m perfectly OK with that. The metal typically isn’t my favorite to wear due to the lighter feel. However, the grade 2 titanium that TAG uses felt incredibly nice in person and high quality. Maybe it was the sand blasted finishing as well, but something just really struck me about this particular Aquaracer. The finishing, the feel, the bezel action…it all just comes together perfectly in my opinion. The older I get, the more comfortable I am in this hobby saying that quartz is actually really convenient. Add the ability to charge the movement via solar power, and you have a really great tool watch you literally never have to worry about. The grayed out Aquaracer shutter dial that we’ve become familiar with along with the ice blue hands and text is eye-catc...
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