Hodinkee
Introducing: Oak & Oscar's Humboldt ExP-02 Keeps Their Experimental Series Going Strong
Using techniques new to the brand's in-house team, they're presenting something new to the public that helps them push their own brand limits.
3,873 articles · 692 videos found · page 60 of 153
Hodinkee
Using techniques new to the brand's in-house team, they're presenting something new to the public that helps them push their own brand limits.
Worn & Wound
One trend in the microbrand/small independent category that I’m glad to see more of already in these early days of 2026 is brands doing more on their own, in-house. Those words, “in-house,” have developed an almost toxic reputation in some circles as they’ve been used liberally to imply a level of craft or development that is not really there when you strip away all the marketing talk. But a handful of brands are taking it back, using it to designate certain manufacturing processes that they’ve taken ownership of over overseas factories. Oak & Oscar has just announced a new watch, the Humboldt ExP-02 that reflects some of the ten year old brand’s new manufacturing capabilities in an exciting and unique way. At a glance, you could be forgiven for thinking this is an ordinary version of the Humboldt, Oak & Oscar’s “classic adventure watch.” Subtly, however, it shows off real watchmaking skill and a willingness on the brand’s part to experiment with new techniques. The centerpiece of the ExP-02 is the dial, which keeps the familiar sandwich style construction that Oak & Oscar is so well known for, but refines it and personalizes it for this piece. Every aspect of the dial manufacturing is done to a very high level in the Oak & Oscar workshop, using new watchmaking equipment that the brand has invested in specifically to create unique components for watches like the ExP-02. According to Oak & Oscar, the rehaut and main dial plate are both cut from alu...
Monochrome
Founded by brothers Alberto and Alessandro Morelli in 2017, the Venice-based brand was initially launched as Meccaniche Veneziane. The company got noticed with the Nereide diver and the Redentore dress line before rebranding in 2022 to strengthen its identity and link to Venetian craftsmanship. The Redentore Utopia II, after the 2024 Redentore Utopia, is the […]
Hodinkee
There's a lot of "who" and "what" to talking about watchmaking, collecting, and history, but we need to think more about the "why."
Worn & Wound
Never has there been a more attention-grabbing timepiece in my watch box than the Lord Elgin Direct Read 7775, commonly nicknamed the Chevron by enthusiasts. Every collector has a watch (or two, or three, or four, or five, or…) they’ve always wanted to add to their collection but can’t, for reasons like price, availability, or both. The Chevron has been near the top of my list for many years. When it was released to the public in 1957, it cost customers $79.50, the equivalent of roughly $917.67 in 2025. While fortunately not fetching that price on the market currently, a rough condition example can still set a collector back hundreds of dollars. The disheartening state of my wallet has made acquiring one infeasible and, even more so, impractical. However, when I saw a Chevron in good condition pop up on eBay for a solid price a few months ago, a good friend of mine and I worked out a deal to acquire it and finally add one to my collection (thanks again, Mike!). Now, with an example of my own, I can rest assured knowing that my years of yearning were not in vain–this watch is truly a joy to own. History and Rundown on the Direct Reading Line When my love for the Chevron model first began, very little information regarding the watch’s history was available online. Outside of the occasional blog post or auction listing, there were no published articles or deep dives available (or at least easily locatable). Research conducted for this article was sparked when I ca...
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Teddy Baldassarre
The PRX stormed onto the scene in 2021 as an intriguing integrated bracelet watch at an approachable price point that had yet to be seen in the category. Four years, later, the Swiss brand has introduced what many would argue should have been offered all along: a sizing sweet-spot 38mm case in Titanium, or the surprise
Hodinkee
In-depth with the next Kollokium project that pushes boundaries while staying practical and highly wearable.
Worn & Wound
Well, dare I say, we’ve moved past the sticker shock of the “new” Bremont. Two and a half years on from Davide Cerrato taking the helm at the British brand, the discourse around direction seems to have died down, and the new vision for the brand - founded by Nick and Giles English and now owned principally by hedge fund manager and activist investor Bill Ackman - is increasingly clear. If I’m being honest, I’m still not sure what to make of this new Bremont, but one thing that’s for sure is that seeing new releases sporting the Bremont “Wayfinder” logo is no longer the jarring experience it was in March of 2024. And it means I can say that Bremont’s latest releases, a pair of 50-piece limited editions unveiled for Dubai Watch Week, each make a tremendous amount of sense in the context of the current Bremont collection. It’s a big step for the brand, which has had to do a tremendous amount of work over the last few years to make the latest interpretation of Bremont make sense. If I’m being wholly honest, I’m still not sure that the new Bremont is really for me (I’m not sure it’s meant to be), but I do know that when I see their new releases, they are unquestionably Bremont watches. What we have today are two reinterpretations of watches initially released earlier this year at Watches & Wonders, each differentiated by notable aesthetic changes. The first of these is a new iteration of the Terra Nova Jumping Hour, introduced for the first time ...
Hodinkee
One of JLC's best calibers returns in rose gold.
Monochrome
The latest Blancpain releases are classical watchmaking refined with a purpose. Long before the Villeret collection officially gained its name in 2003, Blancpain had already set the template in the early 1980s with a small, classically framed complete calendar moonphase (Cal. 6395). The look with the double-stepped bezel, Roman numerals, and slim cases became the […]
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Worn & Wound
Kollokium came on the watch scene almost two years ago shrouded in mystery. The Projekt 01 was not only a daring exercise in the avant-garde, it was from a brand that was, in some ways, kind of formless. Founded by watch industry veterans Manuel Emch, Barth Nussbaumer, and Amr Sindi, the pedigree was high but the teasing messages on their website and social media could lead you to think it was all a goof. Kollokium, in the years since, have evolved their Projekt 01 design with multiple colorways and lume treatments, always keeping the same signature “dial” effect, which is an array of hundreds of precisely sized cylinders that when viewed together show rough hour markers through undulations (like on a pin-art board) that allow for time telling. It’s all very sci-fi, and high concept, but Kollokium became a “real” brand at some point along the way, and have captured a devoted following of owners and prospective owners, always awaiting the next drop. Well, the next drop is here (sort of) and it debuts a striking new design. No points for creativity here, but the watch is simply called the Projekt 02, and according to Kollokium the design is rooted in the initial concepts that came from the brainstorming that eventually produced the Projekt 01. The brand describes it as a bit more organic, but very much still in their “neobrutalist” wheelhouse. Instead of those lume filled cylinders we saw in the Projekt 01 releases, the dial here is created from a total of ...
Girard-Perregaux has an extensive track record in watchmaking and is one of the most enduring integrated manufactures of the Swiss watch industry. In the 1980s, at a time when the quartz crisis had crippled mechanical watchmaking, the brand was among the first to champion the renaissance of traditional movements. Today, Girard-Perregaux announces the launch of […]
SJX Watches
Girard-Perregaux (GP) has just taken the covers off a new in-house movement that will serve as a versatile platform for the brand, the Girard-Perregaux GP4800. Historically a significant producer of automatic movements, GP marks a milestone with the new, high-performance base movement that will gradually replace the 3000 family of movements that was once a workhorse employed by several high-end brands. Initial thoughts GP’s most famous creations are undoubtedly the historical Tourbillon with Three Gold Bridges and the more recent Constant Escapement. Significant as they may be, neither illustrates the brand’s past strength as a manufacture in the early decades of contemporary watchmaking post-Quartz Crisis, in particular GP’s position as a leading supplier of automatic movements. It all began with the 3000 family of calibres introduced in 1994. Desirable for its slimness and high performance – the 3000 series was sub-3 mm thick while ticking at 4 Hz – this versatile platform served not only as a base for many of the brand’s own timepieces, but also powered well-known watches made by a number of prominent brands, including Cartier, Daniel Roth, Vacheron Constantin, and even MB&F;. A GP3000 found in the MB&F; HM2 And then inverted in the MB&F; HM8 Mark 2 The new GP4800 is clearly meant to replace the venerable-yet-aging 3000-series. Boasting a modern architecture and fine technical chops, the GP4800 is a step towards reclaiming GP’s past success as a movement ma...
Revolution
Two Broke Watch Snobs
The Lorier Merlin is a $550 pilot watch inspired by WWII RAF design. Featuring a locking bezel and vintage styling, it offers standout value.
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Worn & Wound
The Windup Watch Fair is heading back to the Windy City for what promises to be our biggest and boldest Chicago event yet-and this time, we’re celebrating a major milestone: 10 years of Windup. From July 11–13, Windup returns to Venue West for three full days of hands-on watch experiences, exclusive launches, engaging panels, and some unexpected surprises. This year’s show features over 40 exhibiting brands, including exciting first-time participants like Tudor, DOXA, Celeste, and Watch Craft. There will also be raffles, giveaways, a Scotch tasting bar, and much more. The event is completely free and open to the public, so whether you’re a seasoned collector, a curious newcomer, or somewhere in between, there’s a place for you at Windup. Windup Watch Fair Chicago Friday, July 11 – Sunday, July 13, 2024 Venue West 221 N Paulina St Chicago, IL 60612 Free and open to the public. Thanks to Our Lead Sponsors We’re thrilled to welcome back our Lead Sponsors, each bringing something exciting to the table-some quite literally. Atelier Wen returns with the Perception, a stunning example of East-meets-West horology. The watch’s intricate guilloché dial, crafted by hand in China, is a modern feat of mechanical art. Casio is showing off their G-SHOCK MTGB4000, a robust, high-tech statement piece loaded with both analog soul and digital brains. Even more exciting? We have it on good authority that Casio will be launching something completely new on day one of the ...
Worn & Wound
One of the things I really enjoy about covering microbrands and small independents is seeing how young brands develop in unexpected ways over time. My first exposure to De Rijke & Co. was through Zach Weiss’s review of their Amalfi 1S back in 2020. At that point, the brand’s calling card was their trick case design that allowed the wearer to easily rotate the dial for a better viewpoint while driving, as well as customized design options so clients could effectively create their own unique version of the watch. This “gentleman driver’s” watch, as they referred to it, remains quite appealing, and the case of course is still a part of their collection. In no way, however, could it have predicted the success the brand would find making watches featuring the “Miffy” character, a staple of Dutch children’s books since the 1950s. Over the last three years, De Rijke & Co. has released several Miffy themed watches that go well beyond simple character dials. The Miffy motif has been used to experiment with bold colors, lume, and different expressions of the moonphase complication. These watches are whimsical, a lot of fun, and quite far removed, in my opinion, from the earlier Amalfi pieces, and it’s fascinating to consider how the brand got to this point. Today, they’ve unveiled what is said to be the final Miffy watch. According to the brand, the new White Ceramic Miffy Moonphase has been in the works for three years. It is, it turns out, quite complicated...
Worn & Wound
Last fall (2024), I felt the itch for something new-that hankering one gets when they just need a new watch. I usually resist, but this time, the fates had a different plan for me. You see, sitting on the forums was an unworn Ming 37.07 Monolith just looking for a good home. I had wanted a Ming for a while, but found myself never in the right place at the right time-or with the right amount of watch-budget when they were released. For a while, in those post-COVID bubble days, Ming’s watches sold out really fast. So, you were either ready at the moment… or not. So, when the 37.07 Monolith, my favorite of the brand’s most recent generation of watches (up until that point), unworn and slightly below retail, was available, I knew I had to go for it. Since its arrival, it has become one of my most frequently worn watches. Not just because it’s new, though that always is a factor, but because there is something wholly different about it from any other watch I’ve owned. It’s modern to the bone-sleek, mysterious, and compelling. The dial defies convention by appearing surfaceless and void-like, without printed or applied markers. It’s minimal yet legible, giving you just enough. And it’s surprisingly comfortable to wear, hugging the wrist with a generously domed profile. But why am I talking about this watch when this article is intended as a review for a different model, the 37.02 Ghost? While different models, they are both part of the 37-series, as are sev...
Revolution
Worn & Wound
The countdown is on. The 2025 Windup Watch Fair is just days away, and if you’re anywhere near San Francisco, this is your official wake-up call: you don’t want to miss this. From May 2nd through May 4th, the Windup Watch Fair will transform Pier 2, the Gateway Pavillion at Fort Mason, into a haven for watch lovers, gear junkies, collectors, and curious newcomers alike. With nearly 90 different watch and EDC brands on display-including some of the most exciting names in independent watchmaking. It’s the perfect place to get hands-on with timepieces you’ve only seen on screens-and maybe even walk away with your next favorite watch. Here are the details: Fort Mason – Gateway Pavilion, 2 Marina Blvd, San Francisco Friday, May 2: 12PM – 6PM Saturday, May 3: 12PM – 6PM Sunday, May 4: 12PM – 5PM Free and open to the public We’re also thrilled to welcome our incredible lead sponsors: anOrdain, Christopher Ward, Fortis, Frederique Constant, and Oris, each bringing something special to the table. Whether you’re after design innovation, heritage craftsmanship, or a bold new statement piece, these brands are sure to deliver. But that’s just the beginning. Experience the EDC Expo Presented by NOMATIC This year, we’re continuing to turn up the volume with our EDC Expo presented by NOMATIC. Whether you’re into sleek multitools, ultra-functional bags, or purpose-built accessories, this section is dedicated to the best in everyday carry gear. This year, insid...
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Monochrome
Renowned for its contemporary and minimalist designs, Ming, the indie watch brand founded by Malaysian photographer Ming Thein in 2017, has gone from strength to strength. Design is king at Ming, and a common design thread runs through all the collections, ranging from time-only to sophisticated chronographs and from world timers to dive watches. Following […]
Monochrome
Rolex has changed… Not marginally, but significantly. We knew the brand was capable of being rather unpredictable and capable of bold creative moves, such as bubble-decorated dials and watches with a guilloché pattern. The days when Rolex simply revamped a collection every 10 years by implementing incremental upgrades and releasing new dial colours every two […]
Revolution
Worn & Wound
In recent days, much of the watch internet has been abuzz with the apparent news of a new Rolex collection with the somewhat hard to believe name of Land-Dweller. Leaked images of the Crown’s new watch began to emerge in the days leading up to this year’s Watches & Wonders, and, as you’d expect from the internet, debate ensued. The shots purported to capture a Datejust-adjacent design with sharper lines and, perhaps, an integrated bracelet. The official Rolex teaser for Watches & Wonders on Instagram seemed to confirm many of the details that had already been guessed, and then a very Daniel Craig at the Olympics style image of Roger Federer wearing the watch hit social media via the tennis star’s (and Rolex ambassador’s) Instagram account. It appeared to everyone at this point that the Land-Dweller was real – we only had to wait for the details. Rolex has made those details public as of today, with the announcement of the new Land-Dweller collection. This is much more, though, than Rolex jumping on the integrated bracelet sports watch bandwagon (although, it is that, at least a little bit). The Land-Dweller is also an important moment for Rolex as a movement maker, as it introduces their new, patented, direct impulse escapament which goes by the trade name Dynapulse. It uses dual silicon wheels and introduces us to Rolex caliber 7135. More on that caliber in a moment, but first, the broad strokes of the Land-Dweller collection. The new collection features a f...
Revolution
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