Revolution
Baring It All: Chanel’s New J12 X-Ray
With a case and bracelet that is almost entirely made out of sapphire, it’s clear that Chanel’s new J12 watch is here to amaze.
Results for ISO 6425 (Diver's Watch Standard)
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Revolution
Quill & Pad
Greubel Forsey Hand Made 1: Hands Breathing Life Into Metal
Everything Greubel Forsey does is about nurturing incredible skill, craftsmanship, and a fundamental belief in patience. This rings doubly true for the Hand Made 1. It looks absolutely perfect from every angle, and the experience is magnified when you realize that not only is this watch completely hand finished (the norm for Greubel Forsey) but wrought from scratch by an individual’s hands.
Time+Tide
Actor Rodger Corser brings Ch.9 travel show Postcards into the Time+Tide office!
Whether he’s playing a hard-partying surgeon in Doctor Doctor or a bewildered zombie in Glitch, Rodger Corser is a square-jawed fixture on Australian TV. But he’s also a serious watch guy. So when Channel 9 travel show Postcards asked him to pick his favourite Melbourne venues, we were humbled that he picked Time+Tide. “I’m part … ContinuedThe post Actor Rodger Corser brings Ch.9 travel show Postcards into the Time+Tide office! appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Why I Bought It: Ming Watches Model 17.06 Monolith
Incoming! If there’s a happier word in the watch enthusiast’s vernacular, GaryG is not sure what it is. After several months in the queue, he recently received the happy news that his Model 17.06 Monolith from the Ming Watches team had arrived. Here he shares why he bought it and what he thinks of it after wearing for several months.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Seiko Presage 2020 Limited Edition Watches
The new Presage Prestige watch is inspired by a classic from Seiko’s past, their first-ever chronograph.
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WATCH TREND COMEBACK !
SJX Watches
Urwerk to Sell UR-111C Worn by Robert Downey Jr. for Charity
Synonymous with playing Iron Man in Disney’s The Avengers franchise, Robert Downey Jr. is also a fan of Urwerk, having worn several of its watches on screen. Having loaned an Urwerk UR-105 CT to Mr Downey to wear in Avengers: Endgame, the watchmaker then offered the watch up for a good cause, selling it at Phillips auctioneers last year for US$312,500. Proceeds from the sale went to Random Act Funding, a charity established by Mr Downey and his wife, Susan. Now another watch worn by Mr Downey is going under the hammer, once again to benefit Random Act Funding. The watch in question is the UR-111C Black that was worn by Mr Downey to the premieres of Avengers: Endgame in New York and Los Angeles last year. Robert Downey Jr. sporting the UR-111C. Photos – Urwerk Offered in like-new condition, the UR-111C is one of just 25 examples made and identical to the standard model save for one important detail: “RDJ” is engraved on the case place where the serial number would usually be. The watch is being sold in an online auction, with the bidding starting at 125,000 Swiss francs. Bids can be placed from now until 9:00 pm Swiss time on February 24. Only registered members of Urwerk Pre-Owned can bid on the watch, and registration can be done on Urwerkpreowned.com. For more information, please contact Urwerk social media manager Alex Rose.
SJX Watches
Chanel Introduces the J12 X-Ray
To mark the 20th anniversary of the J12, Chanel is premiering not one but two epic versions of the iconic ceramic watch. While the first features a striking two-colour ceramic case, the second is perhaps the ultimate J12. Rendered entirely in clear sapphire – case, bracelet, and movement – the J12 X-Ray is delicate, extravagant and novel. Clear and second only to diamond in hardness, sapphire is also fragile and susceptible to chipping, cracking or shattering. Its properties are similar to that of ceramic, the defining material of the J12, except more extreme. As it is with Chanel’s ceramic cases, the sapphire parts of the J12 X-Ray are made by Chanel subsidiary G&F; Chatelain, a case maker that has produced sapphire cases for another Chanel-owned brand, Bell & Ross. Measuring 38mm wide, the case is machined from a single sapphire block and topped by a white gold bezel set with baguette-cut diamonds. Similarly, the dial is also sapphire, and fitted with a minute track and hands in white gold. All of the hour markers, on the other hand, are baguette-cut diamonds. Sapphire bridges and links And beneath the sapphire dial – which also doubles up as the movement base plate – is the Caliber 3.1. Derived from the rectangular, skeletonised Caliber 3 found in the in the Boy-Friend Skeleton, the Caliber 3.1 is hand-wound with all of its moving parts secured by sapphire bridges, which allows the movement to be seen from the front and back. The pivots of the gears of the go...
SJX Watches
Up Close: Girard-Perregaux Classic Bridges 45 mm
Girard-Perregaux is best known for the Tourbillon with Three Gold Bridges, one of the most distinctive and beautiful movements in watchmaking – even 160 years after it was first designed. Characterised by its symmetry and arrow-shaped bridges, the Tourbillon with Three Gold Bridges is one of the few movements has an irrefutably iconic design. Some of the three-bridges magic has democratised with the Girard-Perregaux Classic Bridges 45 mm, a time-only watch that’s a more affordable take on the 19th century design. Constant Girard’s movement French watchmaker Jean-Antoine Lépine revolutionised the construction of the watch movement around 1770 when he invented the Lépine calibre, which used bridges and cocks to secure the moving parts on the base plate, replacing the prevailing pillar construction where the parts were held between two full plates. Almost a century later, Girard-Perregaux founder Constant Girard took Lépine’s idea a step further by rethinking the layout of the movement, with an eye towards not just mechanical function, but also beauty. A Girard-Perregaux pocket watch with nickel-plated parallel bridges, c. 1875. Photo – Antiquorum Starting in the mid 1850s, Girard began working on a caliber with its barrel, gear train, and regulator arranged vertically in a straight line. They were secured by identical, parallel bridges shaped like an elongated rhombus, creating an incredibly elegant equilibrium in the movement layout. Eventually the large, par...
SJX Watches
Chanel Introduces the J12 Paradoxe
Having given the J12 a thorough revamp last year, Chanel has just dropped the most astonishing iteration of its signature watch in the lead-up to Baselworld 2020 – the J12 Paradoxe. Conceived to mark the 20th anniversary of the iconic watch, the J12 Paradoxe looks like a digitally doctored timepiece at first glance. In fact, the stock images of the watch would pass for an abstract J12 ad. But J12 Paradoxe is actually two-tone – two thirds of the case in white ceramic and the remainder in black ceramic. Rely on the same concept but more valuable materials, Chanel is also rolling out the uber-extravagant J12 Paradoxe Diamonds combining black ceramic, white gold, and diamonds. While ceramic is about four times harder than steel, the hardness makes it brittle and delicate to machine, making a ceramic watch case slightly more challenging to fabricate than the same in steel. Produced by G&F; Chatelain, the buckle and case-maker owned by Chanel, the case is essentially two sections of ceramic anchored to an inner steel frame. Each section is secured to the frame with two screws, which are visible on the back of the watch. And the movement is also contained with the frame. Because of the multi-part construction of the case, the water resistance is 50 m, instead of the 200 m of the standard J12 that has a single-piece ceramic case. The dial and bezel insert continue the colours of the case, but each component is a single piece that’s been treated to create a two-colour fini...
Time+Tide
Genesis, with a twist: The Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Black Ceramic
Editor’s note: The Blancpain Fifty Fathoms is, in the context of a fit-for-purpose dive watch, the original. Nothing like it had come before, and because of it, watches like Rolex’s ubiquitous Submariner exist – the Fifty Fathoms was the catalyst for what is arguably the most popular sub-genre of timepieces ever created. But, while recognising … ContinuedThe post Genesis, with a twist: The Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Black Ceramic appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Time+Tide
Gunmetal greatness with the Casio G-Shock GMW-B5000V
Editor’s note: The one-watch collection is forever in the back of the minds of watch collectors, as a consideration of how one’s tastes might look when reduced to a single timepiece. A fun extension of this thought is what one might wear during the apocalypse, and you’d be hard pressed to arrive at a better … ContinuedThe post Gunmetal greatness with the Casio G-Shock GMW-B5000V appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
A. Lange & Söhne Richard Lange Jumping Seconds: Jump For Joy
According to Joshua Munchow the sleeper of horological complications is the dead seconds, or jumping seconds, function. And, according to him, no one does it better than A. Lange & Söhne as evidenced by the Richard Lange Jumping Seconds model. Follow him on a deep dive of this unusual watch right here.
Hodinkee
Introducing: The IWC 'Laureus Sport for Good' Portugieser Hand-Wound Monopusher Limited Edition (Live Pics & Pricing)
This is the 14th watch IWC has made with the foundation.
SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Introduces the Égérie Ladies’ Collection
Reviving a name once used for a line of tonneau-shaped women’s watches, Vacheron Constantin has just unveiled the Égérie, now a round watch with an unusually positioned crown. Translating as “muse”, Égérie is a slightly larger and more casual automatic watch for ladies, setting it apart from Vacheron Constantin’s current offerings for ladies, which are mostly downsized or quartz versions of men’s watches, as well as pricey, high-jewellery timepieces. That also sets it apart from its namesake, introduced in 2003 with a tonneau case, which lasted several years in the catalogue but never quite took off. Inspired by haute couture according to Vacheron Constantin, the new Égérie line is centred on two models, with either a moon phase or date. Each is offered in pink gold or steel, as well as a fully diamond-set version in white gold, for a total of five models. Égérie Self-Winding (top row), and Égérie Moonphase All models share a fully polished case with a diamond-set bezel, with a silver opaline dial featuring an offset sub-dial at two o’clock that sits just beside the crown, topped with a moonstone cabochon. The dials are decorated with a pleated, radial guilloche done the traditional way, with a hand-operated rose engine. The engine-turning is intersected up by a chapter ring with spherical markings for the minutes and applied gold hour numerals. Specially designed for the collection, the numerals are a modern take on traditional Breguet numerals...
Time+Tide
HANDS-ON: Vacheron Constantin Égérie Self-winding with Date, and Égérie Moon Phase
Launching a completely new watch collection (starting-from-a-blank-page new, not variations on an existing line) is a high-risk game that involves huge costs: the cost of design and development – and if it’s not a resounding success (heaven forbid), the cost to both brand equity and bottom line. No wonder it’s a rare event. Even rarer … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: Vacheron Constantin Égérie Self-winding with Date, and Égérie Moon Phase appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Watch Expert EXPOSES Rappers' FAKE Watches! (Lil Durk, 6ix9ine, Gunna, Polo G...)
Time+Tide
What Sealed The Deal – James’s Baume & Mercier Capeland Chronograph
Well, this is a bit different to a normal What Sealed The Deal … seeing as this Baume & Mercier Capeland Chronograph is actually my watch. I purchased it late last year after a particularly dogged haggling match that started with a seemingly innocuous Gumtree.com ad. Anyway, I’ll spare you the deets of the torrid exchange … ContinuedThe post What Sealed The Deal – James’s Baume & Mercier Capeland Chronograph appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Melbourne Franck Muller boutique robbed in broad daylight by man wielding syringe, hammer and bad wig
**UPDATE: We have had confirmation from Franck Muller Australia that the stolen model is a round diamond watch, model number 4200 QZ R D3 CD 5 N with serial number 36. If you come across this watch, please contact Crime Stoppers on 1800 333 000. No pictures of the watch are available at this time.** … ContinuedThe post Melbourne Franck Muller boutique robbed in broad daylight by man wielding syringe, hammer and bad wig appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Sinn Introduces the 158 Chronograph “Bund Remake”
The new Sinn 158 is unusual in being a remake of a vintage watch originally produced by another company, but due to a quirk of history, simultaneously a Sinn. In the 1960s and 1970s Heuer supplied the German armed forces, or Bundeswehr, with the 1550 SG flyback chronograph. Though typically military in style, the Heuer 1550 SG was fairly distinctive, with a black-coated rotating bezel and oversized sub-dials. A favourite remake In the 1980s, Sinn was contracted by the Bundeswehr to refurbish the 1550 SG watches, resulting in some having a Sinn-branded dial. At the same time, decommissioned or surplus watches were also acquired by Sinn, which then sold them to civilians. Having become something of a cult favourite due to its design, size, and affordability, the Heuer 1550 SG has been the subject of several past remakes by Sinn. Named the Sinn 155, the earliest remake was for the Japanese market in 2007, and later editions included a 155 for German department store Manufactum. A Heuer 1550 SG “Bund” from the 1970s. Photo – TAG Heuer Because of its hands, the 158 is the most modern-looking of the remakes, but still retains all of the key elements of the original, most notably the four screws to secure the inner case to the outer case, as well as the flat step where the lugs meet the bezel. Like the original, the 158 has a bead-blasted steel case with a bidirectional, black-coated aluminium bezel. The case is 43 mm like the 1550 SG, but slightly thicker at 15.15 mm high ...
Quill & Pad
Breguet Classique Dame Ref. 9065 Features Tahitian Mother-Of-Pearl Dial And More Than A Touch Of Romance
Breguet launches the Classique Dame Reference 9065 in time to celebrate Valentine’s Day and the season of love, but rest assured this watch is the right choice any time. Martin Green thinks that's largely due to the Tahitian mother-of-pearl dial, but there's much more to this colorful delight as he explains here.
SJX Watches
Business News: Swatch Group Takes Legal Action Against COMCO
Just before the new year, Swiss competition regulator COMCO, also known by its German acronym Weko, announced a provisional suspension of ETA’s right to sell movements to third-party brands. Once the dominant supplier of mechanical movements in Switzerland, ETA and its parent Swatch Group have been embroiled in a decades-long dispute with COMCO over the movement maker’s allegedly anticompetitive practices. Now the dispute between Switzerland’s largest watchmaking group and COMCO has taken a fresh turn with the Swatch Group filing a complaint with the Swiss federal court on January 20, demanding a repeal of COMCO’s decision to suspend sales, a move first reported by Swiss newspaper Neue Zürcher Zeitung (NZZ). An example of an ETA movement with upgraded features that ETA only supplies to sister brands; seen here inside a Hamilton According to the competition agency, the suspension of sales is meant to further weaken ETA’s market power as a major movement supplier, while allowing space for other movement suppliers to ramp up production and build their order books. The suspension remains in force until summer 2020, when COMCO will reach a final verdict on ETA’s rights and obligations. COMCO did allow a narrow exception to the ban, allowing ETA to sell its movements to small- and medium-sized watch brands that are existing clients. But the exception came a stipulation: Swatch Group has to treat all clients equally, which means selling movements to one small brand...
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A Sleeper Choice for the Military Watch Enthusiast - Ball Engineer II Green Berets
Time+Tide
Crime or Sublime: Pocket watches in 2020
The gauntlet has well and truly been thrown down on the polished concrete floors of Time+Tide’s headquarters in this week’s office row, as a truculent James Robinson asseverated that pocket watches in 2020 are about as useful as a solar powered watch in a sensory deprivation tank … that is to say, completely pointless. Deputy … ContinuedThe post Crime or Sublime: Pocket watches in 2020 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Hublot Spirit of Big Bang Meca-10: Now With Even More Big Bang Spirit (And More Wearable Size)
There is something about tonneau-shaped watch cases that Martin Green finds instantly appealing. So it's no surprise that he fell for the Hublot Spirit of Big Bang Meca-10 upon its introduction at the 2020 LVMH Watch Week. Or is it?
SJX Watches
Breaking News: Bulgari Exits Baselworld 2020
Barely a month after the inaugural LVMH Watch Week in Dubai, Bulgari has announced it is out of Baselworld 2020, citing the “Coronavirus pandemic”. Instead, Bulgari will present its products at roadshows in key markets, where amongst other things it will unveil a new record-setting ultra-thin watch. In the Bulgari announcement of its exit, chief executive Jean-Christophe Babin was careful to note that the jeweller might return to the event, stating “we remain open for 2021 onwards to continue with Baselworld”, with a decision due to be made by June 2020. The Roman jeweller is the biggest revenue earner amongst the LVMH watch and jewellery brands, which also includes watchmakers Hublot, TAG Heuer, and Zenith. All four already showed most of their new products for the year in Dubai, though Bulgari is the only one to depart Baselworld. Sunny and free of the flu in Dubai In contrast, the three watch brands of LVMH will be staying put. In a press release swiftly put out by Baselworld after Bulgari’s departure, LVMH watch division president Stéphane Bianchi stated: “We believe in the importance of a major event for the Swiss watch industry and look forward to a successful fair, both in terms of image and sales, for our three Maisons.” The divergence between Bulgari and the LVMH watch division gives credence to talk within the industry that a keen rivalry has developed between Messrs Babin and Bianchi, who joined LVMH in 2018 after a successful stint running Fre...
Time+Tide
Coronavirus chaos as Bulgari pulls out of Baselword 2020, and Australian boutique openings cancelled
The Bulgari booth is among the most grand at the Baselworld fair. Opposite TAG Heuer at the entry to Hall 1, it is a glittering sentry to what was only a few years ago the highlight of the yearly calendar for the world watch industry. Peak glamour. Peak PR. Peak hype. As of this morning, … ContinuedThe post Coronavirus chaos as Bulgari pulls out of Baselword 2020, and Australian boutique openings cancelled appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Up Close: Voutilainen Vingt-8 ‘Blue Pearl’ 44 mm
The highly-regarded Voutilainen Vingt-8 has a 39 mm case as standard, along with a dazzling variety of dials and additional complications, from a retrograde date to an inverted movement. But one of the more interesting variants is the simple-but-enormous oversized Vingt-8. Originally introduced in 2017, the extra-large, 44 mm Vingt-8 is available as a custom order, with the most recent example being the Vingt-8 ‘Blue Pearl’, one of the few Voutilainen watches with a mother-of-pearl dial. The 44 mm case… With an enlarged movement to fit The oversized Vingt-8 has been produced in a range of case metals, including steel, but this example has a platinum case, which means an impressive heft, the kind of weight you rarely find on highly-finished, classical wristwatches. But it also means the watch feels heavy on the wrist, which can be good or bad depending on taste. Importantly – and this is probably the most important design change – the lug width has been widened to 22 mm, compared to just 20 mm on the very first oversized watch. This gives the watch ideal proportions – the new case design needs nothing more. Visually the watch is light and informal. The mother of pearl is a pale, even blue that is almost luminous and reveals nuances up close. It gives the watch a cool colour palette that’s more restrained than the average Voutilainen, which tends to have an elaborately decorated dial. Pearl’s progress The first watch with such a dial was the 2-Eight, the lad...
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