Deployant
New: Longines reimagines the Evidenza
Longines reimagines their Evidenza, a collection which has stood the test of time in its iconic tonneau shaped case, with multiple dial colour options.
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Deployant
Hodinkee
Vintage Watches: A 1960s Rolex Wall Clock, A 1963 Omega Seamaster For The Pakistan Air Force, And A 1950s Audemars Piguet
Spanning the gamut from a wall clock to an elegant dress watch – this week's Vintage collection delivers.
Hodinkee
Introducing: Grönefeld's First Sports Watch Is The 1969 DeltaWorks
Legible, rubber-clad, and inspired by the Dutch Delta Works.
Time+Tide
MICRO MONDAYS: The Olto-8 Infinity II is a high-octane extravaganza of a watch
For those who buy watches to wear in different situations, what context best suits the Olto-8 Infinity II? It could be in the seat of a race car, or even on the wrist of Tony Stark. Truthfully, the Olto-8 Infinity II wants to be worn anywhere, bringing it’s own high-octane energy into the dullest of … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The Olto-8 Infinity II is a high-octane extravaganza of a watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Franck Muller Unveils the Fully Gem-Set Vanguard Revolution 3 Tourbillon
As Cortina Watch celebrates its Golden Jubilee this year, it has progressively rolled out a series of commemorative editions, including a pair from Patek Philippe in the form of a unique Dome Clock (that’s unfortunately not for sale) and a special Calatrava ref. 5057G (that fortunately is). Now the Singapore retailer has taken the covers off its most extravagant anniversary edition yet, the Franck Muller Vanguard Revolution 3 Skeleton Cortina Watch 50th Anniversary. The anniversary lineup is made up of five unique versions of Franck Muller’s triple-axis tourbillon wristwatch, each set with 28.4 carats of baguette-cut gemstones. One of the five watches is complete – the others are still being put together – and is on display at an exhibition in Singapore taking place from now till September 13, 2022. The diamond-set version with a rainbow-finished movement that’s now on show in Singapore Initial thoughts Franck Muller is one of the leading practitioners of lavishly-jewelled complicated watches, while Cortina Watch has long been a champion of high-jewellery watches, so the anniversary Vanguard tourbillons make sense both ways. While the large-format bling has a niche appeal, the Vanguard Revolution 3 movement is interesting in itself. In fact, the movement is quintessentially Franck Muller in how it highlights the tourbillon. Here the tourbillon regulator is less about mechanics than visual spectacle. Not only does the tourbillon twi-axial and spherical, it also ...
Quill & Pad
Complete List And Photos Of All Shortlisted Watches In The 2022 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG)
The 2022 edition of the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) has just published its list of shortlisted (“nominated”) watches in the runup to the eagerly anticipated red-carpet event in Geneva on November 10, 2022. Ian Skellern shares all of the finalist watches in each category here. Let us know your favorites!
Deployant
Time travellers: Six dual time zone watches for the globetrotter
Dual time zone watches are certainly one of the accessories for the frequent travellers. Here, we are looking at six timepieces that will do the job.
Hodinkee
Introducing: The Ming 20.11 'Mosaic' Puts A Miniature Metropolis On The Wrist
The laser-etched sapphire dial means a light show like you've never seen before.
Hodinkee
Introducing: Crypto Bros, This One's For You – The Bitcoin Watch From Jacob & Co.
The sun might be setting on cryptocurrency, but the Astronomia Solar Bitcoin is just approaching the horizon.
Hodinkee
Introducing: Ulysse Nardin Searches For Success At The End Of The Rainbow
A newly independent watch brand gets in on the multicolored-gem trend.
Deployant
Review: The New Patek Philippe Annual Calendar Travel Time Ref. 5326G
Patek Philippe introduces its first ever wristwatch combining the annual calendar and travel time complications, the Ref. 5326G.
Hodinkee
The Spec Sheet: The Radiomir PAM210 Is The Watch Of Panerai Past And Present
And maybe the future, too? You be the judge after watching this 60-second video on a modern icon.
Time+Tide
HANDS-ON: The Dan Henry 1975 is a diver that’s playful yet refined and costs under $300
While the last few releases from Dan Henry have focused on the post-WWI era of military chronographs, the micro-turned-major brand return to a more lighthearted spirit with their most “modern” watch so far - the Dan Henry 1975. While the concept of a diving watch rose throughout the 1950s and was popularised in the 1960s, … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Dan Henry 1975 is a diver that’s playful yet refined and costs under $300 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
In-Depth: Trilobe's Unorthodox Approach To Watchmaking Is Winning Fans All Over The World
Here's everything you need to know about the next-gen French watchmaker.
Hodinkee
Introducing: Downsizing De Bethune's Perpetual Calendar With The DB25sQP
A smaller size for the brand's ever-gorgeous QP.
SJX Watches
Panerai Introduces the Luminor BiTempo PAM01360 and PAM01361
Traditionally all about vintage-inspired, “Marina Militare” dive watches, Panerai has recently been rolling out complications with a minimalist, contemporary execution, such as the recent Luminor pepertual calendar. Sharing a similar aesthetic perhaps more practical – and certainly more affordable – is the new Luminor BiTempo PAM 1360 and PAM 1361, a GMT wristwatch with striking baby-blue accents on a blue or black dial. The PAM 1361 with a radially-brushed blue dial Initial thoughts Given its large diameter and clean dial, the Luminor accommodates complications well while still maintaining its characteristic minimalist style – if the additions are integrated properly. Panerai managed that with the BiTempo, which manages to incorporate a date, second time zone, and power reserve indicator without hindering the recognisable Panerai aesthetic. In fact, the BiTempo could pass for a time-only Luminor from across a room. That said, the second time zone isn’t a new complication for the brand – the movement is an existing calibre – so the novelty is mainly in the facelift that changes dial details like the enlarged date display and blue accents. While I appreciate that the baby blue indicators are legible, I find the colour overly pastel for the low-key, military-inspired styling. Legible both day and night Twin time zones The BiTempo has a 44 mm Luminor 1950 case with its trademark crown guard. The “sandwich” dial has the signature Luminor layout with ov...
Hodinkee
Introducing: Royal Oak In Royal Blue: The New Ceramic AP Perpetual Calendar
Audemars Piguet has a case of the high-complication blues.
Hodinkee
Introducing: Czapek Gives The SXH1 Movement A Makeover With These Bold Quai Des Bergues Models
A classic take on classic watchmaking enters the 21st century.
SJX Watches
Tudor Introduces the Pelagos 39
In a perhaps unsurprising but very much a welcome move, Tudor has just taken the covers off the Pelagos 39, a scaled-down and slightly dressed up version of its “professional” diver’s watch. Rated to 200 m and just 11.8 mm tall, the Pelagos 39 is essentially a condensed version of its bigger brother. Initial thoughts No doubt in response to feedback, Tudor has been steadily trimming the sizes of its key models. The brand has preserved the key technical features of the watches while reducing the case diameter, dialling back on the chunkiness of its first-generation models. The Black Bay Pro was a smaller GMT and a few months later the Pelagos 39 arrives as the smaller “pro” diver. Besides the smaller diameter, the new Pelagos is also thinner, so it will no doubt be more easily wearable on an everyday basis than its 42 mm counterpart. Wearability aside, the Pelagos 39 is evidently caters to enthusiasts in other ways. It has a symmetrical dial with no date display, while the text above six include a single line in red. It’s difficult not to like the Pelagos 39. The Pelagos 39 also has subtle changes to the dial and bezel finish that differentiate it from the larger models. The brushed finish on those components give it a little bit more shine, avoiding the muted, functional appearance of the earlier Pelagos watches. As is typical for Tudor, the Pelagos 39 is priced at just US$4,400. Considering its build quality and movement, that ranks it amongst the best in cla...
SJX Watches
Greubel Forsey Introduces the GMT Balancier Convexe
Having made its debut in Greubel Forsey’s watches a decade ago, the world time is one of the brand’s distinctive complications with its large titanium globe. While the original iteration of the world time wristwatch came to an end last year with the all-black final edition, Greubel Forsey has taken the covers off its successor, the GMT Balancier Convexe. The three-dimensional world time sphere has been retained, but almost all else has been redesigned on the new model. Beside adopting the streamlined aesthetics of the brand’s bestselling sports watches like the Balancier S2, the display now has local and world time arranged concentrically in a traditional, Louis Cottier-style display in a first for the brand. Initial thoughts Despite its complex looks and US$400,000 price tag, the GMT Balancier Convexe is relatively simple for a Greubel Forsey. In fact, it’s the brand’s first world time watch without a tourbillon. As a result, the new GMT is as much about design as mechanics. The GMT demonstrates how GF is implementing its sports watch styling across practically all of its line-up. The GMT has a streamlined “Convexe” case and does away with the asymmetrical bulge traditionally used to accommodate the globe. Because of its curved profile and hidden lugs, Convexe case allows the GMT to pass as a moderately sized watch despite being 46.5 mm in diameter, allowing it to wear smaller. To go along with the sporty case style, the dial has been given a new look. ...
SJX Watches
Hautlence Returns with the Linear Series 1
The sister company of H. Moser & Cie., Hautlence is a maker of highly contemporary watches that’s been on ice for several years as its owners completed Moser’s resurrection. Now Hautlence is making a comeback with a trio of watches led by the Linear Series 1. Adopting the TV-shaped case that’s historically the brand’s signature – but now matched with an integrated rubber strap – the Linear Series 1 features a retrograde hours on a straight-line scale along with a flying tourbillon at six o’clock. Initial thoughts Hautlence was founded in 2004 and found success during the subsequent boom in the luxury watch industry. Its fortunes faded together with that era of good times, so it is perhaps fitting that the brand is now being revived in the midst of another boom. The Linear Series 1 smartly returns to the TV-screen case that defined the brand since its inception. When combined with the open dial it is distinctive at a distance and recognisable as a Hautlence. Naturally the case design has been tweaked for today’s tastes, so it gets an integrated rubber strap. The sporty stance of the new look is appealing, although the integrated strap and folding clasp means it won’t fit perfectly on all wrists. Mechanically the Linear Series 1 is the result of a Moser base movement and an Agenhor module (that was originally developed for RJ-Romain Jerome), so it has solid technical credentials. Besides a retrograde hours, the movement also have a flying tourbillon with do...
Time+Tide
GENEVA WATCH DAYS: The Bulgari novelties find a luxe upgrade for the Octo in gold
In March this year, Bulgari released the world’s thinnest mechanical watch with the Octo Finissimo Ultra, only to be beaten again in July by the Richard Mille RM UP-01 Ferrari by just 0.05mm. While creating another record-breaking watch within a handful of months would be inconceivable, the Bulgari lineup for Geneva Watch Days offers an … ContinuedThe post GENEVA WATCH DAYS: The Bulgari novelties find a luxe upgrade for the Octo in gold appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Introducing: The First Oris Divers Sixty-Five With Caliber 400 To Enter Serial Production Has A Surprise Bezel (Live Pics & Pricing)
Give me all the bezels.
Quill & Pad
Why The A. Lange & Söhne Tourbillon Pour Le Mérite Is One Of The Most Historically Important Modern Wristwatches – Reprise
Why is this timepiece important from a holistic view of horological history? The reasons are manifold and include the unheard-of technology nestled within its movement, the audacity of a German newcomer in challenging Swiss status quo, and the symbolic value for A. Lange & Söhne's rebirth as well as the golden age of mechanical timepieces.
Quill & Pad
Andersen Genève x Asprey Heures Du Monde: An Exquisite Double-Signed Trip Around The World
Despite having made more than 100 pièces uniques among a grand total of approximately 1,500 timepieces spanning 42 years of a truly inventive career, independent watchmaker and co-founder of the A.H.C.I. Svend Andersen has become particularly known for the worldtimer, a complicated timepiece displaying the time in 24 time zones. Here Elizabeth Doerr shares a brief history of worldtimers and blue gold while looking at the Andersen Genève x Asprey Heures du Monde.
Hodinkee
Happenings: Hyla Ames Bauer To Lecture At The Horological Society Of New York
The famous watch and jewelry writer will discuss the history of the Quartz Crisis.
Deployant
Bicycles on TGIFridays: Featuring the new (2022 model year) Orbea Orca M30
Chillout! Its Friday! And for this relaxed end of week feature, we showcase the Orbea Orca M30 of a friend with Shimano 105.
SJX Watches
Breguet Facelifts the Classique Calendrier 7337
One of the longest-lived models in Breguet’s line-up, the Classique Calendrier 7337 has been in the catalogue since the 1980s before being revamped in 2009 to give the model its current proportions. Now Breguet has given the 7337 a gentle cosmetic makeover with a redesigned dial. Despite changing none of the fundamentals, the new dial gives the 7337 a distinctly different look that is amongst the most modern in the brand’s Classique collection. Initial thoughts The new 7337 modernises a longstanding model in Breguet’s lineup, one that was originally inspired by pocket watches the brand made in the 19th century. The redesign certainly succeeds in giving the 7337 a more contemporary flavour, so anyone who finds the original design overly old fashioned will appreciate the facelift. However, the new look loses some of the classical elegance that defines Breguet in my opinion. And it also loses the quirky elegance that was characteristic of the original dial layout. Design aside, the new 7337 is very much identical to the earlier model in terms of movement and construction, which means the quality is excellent, as is typical of Breguet. Considering the quality of build, materials – the guilloche dial for instance is solid gold – and the historically-significant brand name, the new 7337 is a reasonably priced proposition at US$43,000, which is identical to the earlier version and unchanged for several years. Breguet pocket watch no. 3833, c. 1823 Symmetrical, mostly De...
Hodinkee
Grails: Why I Still Don't Own The A. Lange & Söhne Of My Dreams
I mean, besides the price.
SJX Watches
Delma Introduces the Quattro Diver’s Watch
A small, family-owned brand that focuses on affordable sports watches, Delma already has a half dozen-strong lineup of dive watches, but its latest is certainly the most novel. Rated to 500 m, the Quattro is a chunky dive watch with an unusual feature: the case module can be detached from the lugs and installed on a decompression plate. Initial thoughts Chunky dive watches are common across a wide range of the price spectrum, but most so at the affordable end. So the latest from Delma seems like yet another player on a crowded field. But the Quattro is interesting in a few respects. For one, the wide bezel and recessed crown give it an unusual enough look that it stands apart from the competition. Then there’s main attraction, a bayonet mechanism that allows the watch to be installed on a decompression plate. It’s questionable whether this has much functionality for a diver, but it does make the Quattro different. But detachable case notwithstanding, the Quattro is pricey for a watch powered by a Sellita movement. Seiko’s many Prospex dive watches are about a quarter less expensive, while Sinn’s ultra-robust U1 is only slight more expensive. Three ways Massive at 44 mm wide and 15.3 mm high, the case of the Quattro locks into a frame with the lugs via a bayonet-lock mechanism. A tiny sliding button on the side of the case releases the locking mechanism, while the frame is essentially a milled steel ring with the lugs at each corner. The release button is next to th...