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Top collectors react to the leftfield Tudor Black Bay 58 in 18K gold. Would they buy it? Time+Tide
Tudor Black Bay 58 Apr 13, 2021

Top collectors react to the leftfield Tudor Black Bay 58 in 18K gold. Would they buy it?

Recently I published my thoughts on the new Tudor Black Bay 58 18K in yellow gold. Tudor really surprised us all this year at Watches & Wonders, throwing their hat in the ring for the higher price tier of precious-metal watches. Personally I think the watch is stunning, but nothing is perfect. I would have … ContinuedThe post Top collectors react to the leftfield Tudor Black Bay 58 in 18K gold. Would they buy it? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Patek Philippe Introduces the Calatrava “Clous de Paris” Ref. 6119 SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Introduces Apr 13, 2021

Patek Philippe Introduces the Calatrava “Clous de Paris” Ref. 6119

Though now often overlooked in favour of a luxury-sports watch, the Calatrava is perhaps the quintessential Patek Philippe – it was introduced in 1932 and named after the brand’s emblem – possessing a diversity of designs that all share an elegant simplicity. Patek Philippe’s second instalment of new watches at Watches & Wonders 2021 focus on fine, sophisticated wristwatches – it also just announced a striking new perpetual calendar – and naturally encompasses the Calatrava, which sees the addition of the Calatrava “Clous de Paris” ref. 6119. A tribute to well-known Calatrava models such as the ref. 3919 and its successor, the ref. 5119, the ref. 6119 blends several signature elements of past designs in a larger case to create a more contemporary guise that’s available in rose or white gold. Importantly, the ref. 6119 is powered by the newly-developed, hand-wind cal. 30-255 PS, a large, thin movement with twin barrels – and an impressively high moment of inertia for the balance wheel. The cal. 30-255 PS Initial thoughts I’ve always been a fan of the Calatrava, especially variants with a hinged, “hunter” back like the ref. 5227. Best described as fine watches for gentlemen, they typify Patek Philippe’s traditional and refined approach to watchmaking. But the cases of previous generations of the Calatrava were relatively small – the ref. 3919 was 33 mm, while the ref. 5119 had a 36 mm case. And more recent models, like the 40 mm ref. 6007 int...

INTRODUCING: Supersized gem-set bezels bring the dazzle with the Bulgari Allegra Time+Tide
Bulgari Allegra Jewellery Apr 13, 2021

INTRODUCING: Supersized gem-set bezels bring the dazzle with the Bulgari Allegra

Jewellery and watches have always been interlinked, but there is a quantum leap from a gem-set bezel to the intricate wrist-worn jewellery of Bulgari. Set deep within their Roman DNA, the pure exuberance of the Italian Dolce Vita comes alive in the Bulgari Allegra. This is dazzling joie de vivre on a strap that willfully … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: Supersized gem-set bezels bring the dazzle with the Bulgari Allegra appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Vacheron Constantin delivers the dazzle of diamonds in the Égérie collection Time+Tide
Vacheron Constantin delivers Apr 12, 2021

Vacheron Constantin delivers the dazzle of diamonds in the Égérie collection

The new Égérie collection from Vacheron Constantin presents the beguiling combination of Haute Horlogerie with Haute Couture. Merely seeing the photos makes me jealous of my wife, as this is something I surely cannot classify as unisex. But maybe for once, that’s a good thing. While citing inspiration from the world of high fashion, there … ContinuedThe post Vacheron Constantin delivers the dazzle of diamonds in the Égérie collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Patek Philippe Introduces the Ref. 5236P In-line Perpetual Calendar SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Introduces Apr 12, 2021

Patek Philippe Introduces the Ref. 5236P In-line Perpetual Calendar

Shortly after launching the Nautilus ref. 5711/1A in green, Patek Philippe is taking the covers off something far more serious in terms of mechanics – the Ref. 5236P In-line Perpetual Calendar. Clearly inspired by vintage perpetual calendar watches like the refs. 3448 and 3450 (and a dial that’s modelled on a vintage Calatrava), the ref. 5236P is ranks as amongst the most notable Patek Philippe calendar watches of recent years – both in terms of design as well as its newly-developed movement. Bearing a close resemblance to the ref. 5235 Annual Calendar – an under-appreciated watch that I regard highly – the new ref. 5236P is equipped with a built-from-scratch calendar module that’s as complicated as some entire perpetual calendar movements. And it is powered by a refined and improved version of the uncommon cal. 31-260 micro-rotor movement that was so far only found in the ref. 5235. The cal. 31-260 PS QL in the new ref. 5236 An under-dial view of the calendar mechanism with the four co-planar discs at top Initial thoughts While clearly inspired by historical designs, the ref. 5236P manages to be different – and the most compelling perpetual calendar in Patek Philippe’s catalogue. The design heritage is clear: the ref. 5236P shares the same case style as the ref. 5235 annual calendar (which I like). Admittedly the ref. 5236P perhaps a bit too big to be as elegant as Patek Philippe’s most refined cases, but the size combined with the distinctive design m...

“It may patina, but it won’t go green.” Omega President sheds more light on Bronze Gold in our Top 5 new Omega video Time+Tide
Omega President sheds more light Apr 12, 2021

“It may patina, but it won’t go green.” Omega President sheds more light on Bronze Gold in our Top 5 new Omega video

There were two burning questions I wanted to ask the President of Omega, Mr Raynald Aeschlimann after seeing the new watches that have been revelead in 2021. The first was about the most hotly anticipated reboot of a major model in my time as a watch journalist; the migration of the 3861 movement into the … ContinuedThe post “It may patina, but it won’t go green.” Omega President sheds more light on Bronze Gold in our Top 5 new Omega video appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The Hublot Big Bang Integral Tourbillon Full Sapphire Time+Tide
Hublot Big Bang Integral Tourbillon Apr 12, 2021

INTRODUCING: The Hublot Big Bang Integral Tourbillon Full Sapphire

Hublot truly is a pioneer in watch materials. Their motto “The Art of Fusion” is not just a tagline, it is a prime directive that drives all of their manufacturing. By thinking ahead, and pushing the boundaries of what a manufacturer can do, they are able to execute things many (if not all) brands are … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Hublot Big Bang Integral Tourbillon Full Sapphire appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Vacheron Constantin Introduces Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin in White Gold SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Introduces Overseas Perpetual Calendar Apr 11, 2021

Vacheron Constantin Introduces Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin in White Gold

The style du jour in luxury watches today, the integrated-bracelet sports watch – exemplified by the Nautilus and Royal Oak – describes many of the most desirable watches today. Though a newcomer relative to its peers, it would be remiss to look past the Overseas, which is as thin, distinctive, and finely finished. Now Vacheron Constantin has unveiled perhaps the best versions of the model yet – the Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin and the Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin Skeleton – both in white gold with dials in blue. Initial thoughts Both watches aren’t new – the Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin was first introduced in 2016, while the skeleton variant was launched last year. The novelty is merely the new colour, as well as the white gold case for the skeleton model (which was previously only available in pink gold). Compared to the previous iterations, the new blue-and-white-gold combinations give the two watches a modern, understated aesthetic that makes them perhaps the most attractive models in the entire Overseas line. My pick of the pair is the skeleton model, which eminently striking, with its open-worked aesthetic – with all the intricate mechanics on display – elevating the look to another level. My pick would be the skeleton model Both new models are priced about 10% more than their predecessors in pink gold, which is more or less in keeping with the industry norm of pricing white gold slightly high (due to ostensibly hi...

Up Close: Arnold & Son Luna Magna SJX Watches
Arnold & Son Apr 11, 2021

Up Close: Arnold & Son Luna Magna

Announced at Watches & Wonders 2021, the Arnold & Son Luna Magna boasts an exceptionally large spherical moon phase display that sits serenely on a dial made of aventurine glass. Powered by an in-house movement like all Arnold & Son (A&S;) watches, the Luna Magna typifies the sort of smartly-executed simple complications that A&S; excels at. The hand-wind movement is sharply finished, while the moon phase sphere is an unusual combination of two halves in aventurine glass and white marble. Initial thoughts The Luna Magna has simple but striking aesthetics. The dial is symmetrical and made up of classical details like Romain numerals and blued hands. But it has a very, very large moon phase display that’s also spherical. So it doesn’t try to do very much – the dial shows hours, minutes, and age of the moon – but it does the moon phase well. A&S; describes it as the “largest moon ever built into a wristwatch”, which I do not dispute in principle, and it certainly looks the part. But strictly speaking, “ever” is inaccurate, for the spherical moon in the Konstantin Chaykin Lunokhod is the same 12 mm in diameter. While A&S; did have extra-large moon phase display in a past model, it was a flat moon phase, lacking the three-dimensionality of the Luna Magna. That size of the moon sphere means it requires substantial clearance under the crystal, which leaves the total case height, including the crystal, a tall 15.9 mm. The moon seen from the back The movement inside is...

Hey, wait, so this Tudor Black Bay 58 is silver not steel? What differences are there, then? Time+Tide
Tudor Black Bay 58 Apr 11, 2021

Hey, wait, so this Tudor Black Bay 58 is silver not steel? What differences are there, then?

When you think of Tudor watches, you typically think of stainless-steel, value-driven offerings. But Tudor surprised us all, making the leap to yellow gold as well as silver for the Tudor Black Bay 58. While the Tudor Black 58 18K presents a formidable step up in price, the new Tudor Black Bay 58 925 in … ContinuedThe post Hey, wait, so this Tudor Black Bay 58 is silver not steel? What differences are there, then? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: Same shape, different recycled materials. Panerai take sustainability to the next level… Time+Tide
Panerai take sustainability Apr 10, 2021

INTRODUCING: Same shape, different recycled materials. Panerai take sustainability to the next level…

Panerai maintains a strong focus on sustainability. This is expressed through the construction and metallurgy of their watches, right down to recycled materials for their fabric and leather straps. Their new Luminor Marina eSTEEL™ is the latest example of this valiant endeavour. Throw in Panerai’s generosity in making their own research publicly accessible and their … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: Same shape, different recycled materials. Panerai take sustainability to the next level… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The Zenith Defy 21 Spectrum collection turns the volume up to 11 Time+Tide
Zenith Defy 21 Spectrum collection Apr 10, 2021

INTRODUCING: The Zenith Defy 21 Spectrum collection turns the volume up to 11

You know the phrase “Business on the outside, party on the inside”? Well Zenith has flipped that with the new, very limited-edition Zenith Defy 21 Spectrum line. The business is on the inside with that magnificent dual-escapement El Primero 9004 automatic movement – but there’s no doubting that it’s party time on the outside. A … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Zenith Defy 21 Spectrum collection turns the volume up to 11 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Vacheron Constantin Unveils the Traditionnelle Split-Seconds Chronograph Collection Excellence Platine SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Unveils Apr 10, 2021

Vacheron Constantin Unveils the Traditionnelle Split-Seconds Chronograph Collection Excellence Platine

First revealed in 2015 inside the Harmony Grande Ultra-Thin Complication Chronograph, the cal. 3500 is a thin, split-seconds chronograph movement with a beautiful construction and novel peripheral winding mechanism. After a brief hiatus, the cal. 3500 has returned at Watches & Wonders 2021 with the Traditionnelle Split-Seconds Chronograph Ultra-Thin Collection Excellence Platine. Cleaner and more formal in style than the Harmony of 2015, the new Traditionnelle split-seconds boasts the same gorgeous cal. 3500, and because it’s a Collection Excellence Platine (CEP) edition, a solid platinum dial. Vacheron Constantin is on a roll with the CEP watches in 2021, with the Traditionnelle split-seconds being the second CEP edition for the year, after the elegant and quirky American 1921. Initial thoughts I was wowed by the cal. 3500 when it made its debut in the Harmony split-seconds chronograph in 2015, and found it a shame that the movement disappeared from the catalogue. The cal. 3500 deserved to be revived, and now it has been. Beautifully traditional in its construction and endowed with intricate and elegant details, the cal. 3500 is one of the finest modern-day chronograph movements. Beyond its aesthetics, it is also exceptionally thin at just 5.2 mm high, making it a feat of construction. And it is also innovative with its peripheral winding mechanism, which is admittedly not new but almost never found on classically handsome movements. The cal. 3500 The Traditionnelle sp...

Cartier Introduces the Santos-Dumont Extra-Large Limited Editions SJX Watches
Cartier Introduces Apr 10, 2021

Cartier Introduces the Santos-Dumont Extra-Large Limited Editions

Having introduced several Santos-Dumont limited editions last year that all sold well, Cartier has followed up with a pair of Santos-Dumont Extra-Large watches, both also limited editions but featuring dials that are notably unconventional for the Santos. Leaving the Santos Dumont XL distinct from earlier iterations of the same model, the new dial design features a spiral, stamped guilloche in its centre, along with reflective Arabic numerals for the hours. It’s found on both the new editions, one in platinum that’s accompanied by a pair of cufflinks, and the other a more affordable, two-tone iteration in steel and pink gold. Initial thoughts While attractive, most of last year’s Santos-Dumont models were in the Large case size – except for the ultra-pricey platinum, box-set edition – which despite the name is relatively small by modern standards. The Santos-Dumont XL, on the other hand, is a good size that’s large enough while still being thin and elegant. The pair of new watches are both XL size, making them ideal for anyone who found last year’s trio too small. Though the case design remains identical, Cartier smartly bestowed a new dial design on the new pair, which leaves them looking surprisingly unusual. Though the dial design is clearly inspired by vintage Cartier watches from the early 20th century, the Arabic numerals are novel for Cartier, which makes the two new models unconventional but still appealing. I don’t typically like two-tone watches...

IWC Introduces the Big Pilot’s Watch Shock Absorber XPL SJX Watches
Jaeger-LeCoultre Apr 10, 2021

IWC Introduces the Big Pilot’s Watch Shock Absorber XPL

Most famous for its functional aviator’s watches, most notably the Big Pilot’s Watch, IWC is going even further with the Big Pilot’s Watch Shock Absorber XPL, a highly experimental version of the Big Pilot with extreme shock resistance that was tested by the Fracture & Shock Physics Group at Cavendish Laboratory in Cambridge University. The Big Pilot XPL boasts exceptional shock resistance – made possible with advanced and ingenious engineering – and an eye-watering price tag. Initial Thoughts The Big Pilot XPL is certainly an impressive piece of engineering, with its hyper-modern aesthetic being a result of the shock-resistance mechanism within the case. The look is clean and strikingly legible, as a pilot’s watch should be. Despite its looks, the Big Pilot XPL is not even that big. In fact, at 44 mm wide and just over 12 mm thick, it is one of the smaller Big Pilot models to date. This, together with the lightweight Ceratanium case means that it will likely be quite wearable. Highly legible The Big Pilot XPL will retail for CHF80,000, or about US$87,000, an eye-watering price for a time-only IWC, despite all of the engineering inside. However, it might be a bargain from another perspective – this might just be the cheapest watch with a performance comparable to a Richard Mille. That said, ultra-shock resistant watches have rarely performed well commercially, aside from Richard Mille’s multiple creations. In fact, IWC’s sister company, Jaeger-LeCoultre,...

INTRODUCING: the Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Split-Second Chronograph Ultra-Thin Platine Time+Tide
Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Split-Second Chronogra... Apr 10, 2021

INTRODUCING: the Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Split-Second Chronograph Ultra-Thin Platine

As of late, many watch enthusiasts have broached the subject of what the “Holy Trinity” really means and whether it still holds merit and relevance. For me, while there are many independent newcomers on the scene that fabricate and finish amazing timepieces, none have the rich and uninterrupted history and heritage that Patek Philippe, Audemars … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: the Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Split-Second Chronograph Ultra-Thin Platine appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

King Nerd writes touching personal tribute to the late Prince Philip Time+Tide
Apr 10, 2021

King Nerd writes touching personal tribute to the late Prince Philip

Editor’s note: King Nerd is someone you’re likely to have seen pop up on Time+Tide over the years. Most recently, he was part of our “11 Days of Londoners” series. But since then, he has been prolific to say the least with collaborations spanning George Bamford and Franck Muller, to Dr Martens and even Jaguar. … ContinuedThe post King Nerd writes touching personal tribute to the late Prince Philip appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: Hublot Big Bang Sang Bleu II: A trio in ceramic unlike anything you’ve ever seen Time+Tide
Hublot Big Bang Sang Bleu Apr 10, 2021

INTRODUCING: Hublot Big Bang Sang Bleu II: A trio in ceramic unlike anything you’ve ever seen

When Time+Tide last looked at a Hublot Big Bang Sang Bleu II, we described it as a “geometric ice palace” for the wrist. Well, the three new Sang Bleu II ceramic editions – coming in grey, blue and white – contain one colour that not only doubles down on that idea but also answers the … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: Hublot Big Bang Sang Bleu II: A trio in ceramic unlike anything you’ve ever seen appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

We don’t want to sound like broken records, but Bulgari just broke another world record   Here is our top 5 from 2021 Time+Tide
Bulgari just broke another world Apr 10, 2021

We don’t want to sound like broken records, but Bulgari just broke another world record Here is our top 5 from 2021

I had to ask the question. I was live on Zoom with Fabrizio Buonamasa-Stigliani, we were encouraged to ask anything that was on our minds. So how about this elephant in the room: “Are you nervous about the year you don’t break a world record with one of your watches?” He played a straight bat, … ContinuedThe post We don’t want to sound like broken records, but Bulgari just broke another world record Here is our top 5 from 2021 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: Tudor’s Black Bay Chonograph hits the sweet spot between the Speedmaster and Daytona Time+Tide
Tudor s Black Bay Chonograph Apr 9, 2021

INTRODUCING: Tudor’s Black Bay Chonograph hits the sweet spot between the Speedmaster and Daytona

The new, all-steel Tudor Black Bay Chronograph seems to me like the sweet middle ground between two iconic watches.  I have a strained relationship with the Rolex Daytona – not that I can get one at retail – and feel it’s a bit too loud and well, Rolexy, even if I admire the quality. The … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: Tudor’s Black Bay Chonograph hits the sweet spot between the Speedmaster and Daytona appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

IWC Introduces the Big Pilot’s Watch 43 SJX Watches
Panerai  seem Apr 9, 2021

IWC Introduces the Big Pilot’s Watch 43

One of the five makers of the beobachtungsuhr, or B-uhr, supplied to the German Luftwaffe during the second world war, IWC is perhaps best known for its pilot’s watches. And the quintessential modern-day IWC pilot’s watch is arguably the Big Pilot’s Watch, which is modelled on the oversized B-uhr (which translates “navigation watch”). Watches and Wonders 2021 sees a litany of new Pilot’s Watches from IWC, including the Big Pilot’s Watch 43, a more wearable, 43 mm version of its extra-large aviator’s watch that was historically 46.2 mm. The reduction in size is made possible due to the cal. 82100, instead of the seven-day cal. 52110 found in its larger brother. Available with black or blue dials, along with the option of a bracelet, the new Big Pilot sticks to traditional dial colours, with no green on offer, despite the faddish colour being found on the Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 that’s being launched at the same time. The Big Pilot Watch 43 in blue Initial thoughts A theme at this year’s Watches & Wonders seems to be downsizing – brands from Rolex to Panerai seem to be responding to rising demand for smaller cases. By shrinking the Big Pilot from 46 mm to 43 mm, IWC caters to those who still want a biggish pilot’s watch, but one that will be easier to wear. Aside from the reduced size, the new Big Pilot 43 has been pared back in terms of design (which is also a consequence of the new movement). Gone are the date and power reserve display ind...

When the most valuable watch in your collection isn’t worth anything to anyone but you Time+Tide
Apr 9, 2021

When the most valuable watch in your collection isn’t worth anything to anyone but you

My parents moved house a couple of years ago. “Any watches?” I asked as they sorted through 45 years of accumulated stuff. “Yes!” said my mother and went off to grab it. We all hope for the barn-find. A watch pulled out of the sofa, found in a drawer, handed down by a long-dead relative. … ContinuedThe post When the most valuable watch in your collection isn’t worth anything to anyone but you appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: Farer’s new Carnegie Chronograph Sport Time+Tide
Farer s new Carnegie Chronograph Apr 9, 2021

INTRODUCING: Farer’s new Carnegie Chronograph Sport

In its six years, Farer has never shied away from standing out from the crowd. It’s a trait that has served the British brand well in the past, be it through wow factor, unique colour combinations or a daring and devilish eye for wicked dials. But by gosh, golly, whatever your chosen British expletive is … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: Farer’s new Carnegie Chronograph Sport appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Rolex Introduces the Datejust 36 “Exotic Dials” SJX Watches
Rolex Introduces Apr 8, 2021

Rolex Introduces the Datejust 36 “Exotic Dials”

Presented at Baselworld 2018, the current generation Rolex Datejust 36 sticks to the look and feel of its predecessor, but its internals were given a thorough upgrade with a latest-generation cal. 3235 movement. At Watches & Wonders 2021, Rolex has introduced a series of textured dials for the Datejust 36, giving the model a variety of distinct looks, either a palm leaf or horizontal fluted motif. Initial Thoughts Sometimes criticised for a conservative approach to design – Rolex iterates and improves rather than redesigns – the new Datejust 36 now offers the perhaps greatest aesthetic variety in the entire Rolex line up, both in terms of dial styles and colours, but also case materials, and gem setting. Despite being individually different, the new dials fit right into Datejust collection. My favourite is the most affordable of the four, the Datejust 36 with a green dial featuring the palm frond pattern (and a domed bezel and Oyster bracelet) that instantly brings to mind a summer vacation in the tropics. Traditionalists, on the other hand, will likely be drawn to the Datejust in two-tone, yellow-gold Rolesor on a Jubilee bracelet that has a geometric linear dial pattern that echoes the Datejust’s iconic fluted bezel. Notably, the models with the new dials cost the same as the corresponding models with older dial designs. There’s now even more choice in the diverse Datejust line up, with something for everyone. The traditionalist’s choice: the fluted dial is a...