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IWC’s Pilot’s Chronograph 41 Finally Gets a Ceramic Case Worn & Wound
IWC s Pilot’s Chronograph 41 Apr 11, 2023

IWC’s Pilot’s Chronograph 41 Finally Gets a Ceramic Case

In the midst of what can only be described as Ingenieur Mania at Watches & Wonders a few weeks ago, IWC quietly unveiled a pair of watches in their Pilot collection that would have certainly been the headline grabbing highlights in almost any other year. It’s interesting in terms of strategy (they clearly wanted to focus heavily on the new Ingenieur, a watch that has been long requested by collectors and clearly represents years of fine tuning) and because, well, the new Pilot’s Chronographs on display were kind of awesome, and show that even in an off year, IWC is completely committed to maintaining their King of the Pilot Watch status.  What we have here are two 41mm Pilot’s Chronographs in ceramic, which represents the first time the brand has gone ceramic in this particular size. You’ll recall that last year the marquee releases were two colored ceramic Pilot’s Chronos (in “Tahoe” white and “Woodland” green), but both were in a somewhat unwieldy 44.5mm case. The 41mm size was introduced in steel in 2021, a welcome downsize from the 43mm case IWC had been using immediately prior, and has since seen versions in titanium and Ceratanium. IWC has demonstrated a fondness for variety when it comes to materials, so it was only a matter of time before the smaller pilot chrono got the ceramic treatment.  First up, the Pilot’s Chronograph in “Oceana,” a shade of blue developed with Pantone, and inspired by the color of overalls worn by members of the Uni...

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Checking out the Sinn T50s in Geneva Worn & Wound
Sinn T50s Apr 11, 2023

Checking out the Sinn T50s in Geneva

The Sinn U50 is one of those watches that watch enthusiasts collectively knew would be a huge hit when it launched in 2020. Though essentially a shrunken-down U1 (with half the water resistance), it was Sinn doing what they do best. Humbly making incredibly rugged, high-spec, modern tool-watches, and making it seem easy. Thin at 11.3mm, well-sized at 41mm x 47mm for a modern, but not oversized fit, and built to withstand 500 bar of pressure, it demonstrated that good engineering prevails over scale. The only problem has been a lack of new versions since launch. There was a blackout LE with a dark MOP dial, which was cool, if not for everyone (Sinn’s head of marketing, Sabine Kleiter wears this watch, and it always looks striking). And then the U50 Pro, which was a date-free remix, with the crown up at 10. Another great-looking version, it was sadly limited to 150 pieces and to the North American market. Both are great, but neither a true addition to the line. And then, in 2023, we got what we wanted. Well, sort of. Rather than building on the U50, Sinn launched a sibling watch called the T50. At a glance, they seemed a lot alike, but there are quite a few differences as well making them a slightly different beast. If I were to liken it to something, it would be the higher-priced sport trim of the same base model car. They have the same dimensions and general design, particularly regarding the case, but are made out of hardened titanium, gold bronze (a patent-pending allo...

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Andy Richter shares the painful story of how his Rolex, gifted to him by Conan O’Brien, was stolen Time+Tide
Rolex gifted Apr 11, 2023

Andy Richter shares the painful story of how his Rolex, gifted to him by Conan O’Brien, was stolen

Watch theft has unfortunately become a dark cloud over the watch world of late. There’s been a noticeable rise in these robberies in recent years and, due to rising concerns, it has definitely had an impact on how and where people wear their watches.  One such victim of this crime was Andy Richter – the … ContinuedThe post Andy Richter shares the painful story of how his Rolex, gifted to him by Conan O’Brien, was stolen appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Oris Adds Some Bling to the Aquis: Hands-On with the New Aquis Date Diamonds Worn & Wound
Oris Adds Some Bling Apr 11, 2023

Oris Adds Some Bling to the Aquis: Hands-On with the New Aquis Date Diamonds

At this point, I think we all have a fairly solid understanding of the appeal of a gold watch. The heft, the rarity, and the luster of gold all appeal to our reptile brains in ways that are almost innate. Zach Weiss broke it down here back in 2021, and in the nearly two years since that article was conceived, we’ve only grown more gold-curious as a team. But as much as we talk about a growing appreciation for gold, there’s another tangentially related segment of watchmaking that doesn’t get nearly the same level of attention, at least from enthusiasts. But a new watch from Oris made me rethink my relationship to these watches.  No, I’m not talking about watches with Muppet-clad date displays. I’m talking about diamonds, an entirely different level of opulence. In a modern context, watches that have been set with diamonds most frequently fall into one of two categories: watches marketed exclusively toward women, or the completely iced out custom jobs that you sometimes see on red carpets, music videos, and in New York City’s diamond district. With the new Aquis Date Diamonds, Oris is asking us to rethink the stone by incorporating them into a watch that’s truly sporty, and also by making them accessible.  Oris goes about this by using lab-grown, as opposed to mined, diamonds. Lab-grown diamonds have increased in popularity in recent years as manufacturing techniques have gotten better and better, delivering stones that are identical optically and chemically ...

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Chanel Introduces the Lion Astroclock SJX Watches
Chanel Introduces Apr 10, 2023

Chanel Introduces the Lion Astroclock

Titled Chanel Interstellar, the 2023 watch collection debuted by Chanel was inspired by “science fiction, space and time travel”. The line-up naturally included exotic variations on the J12, but the most impressive timekeeper wasn’t a wristwatch but a desk clock, the Lion Astroclock. Anchored by a lion, the Astroclock is typical Chanel in style. Almost entirely matte black, it has discreet touches of extravagance in the form of brilliant-cut diamonds on the hands, which form the unusual, planetarium-style time display. The lion is a reference to Leo, Coco Chanel’s zodiac sign Initial thoughts Monochromatic, sculptural timekeepers with the occasion gemstone setting, Chanel’s top-of-the-line clocks possess an easy, intrinsic appeal. The Astroclock is no different. At a distance, it probably won’t look particularly interesting on a desk, but up close the refined execution is visible. All the details within the glass sphere – the three-dimensional time display, polished surfaces, and brilliant-cut diamonds – need to be admired up close. With its US$350,000-ish price tag, the Astroclock is probably more expensive than it should be considering the relatively simple L’Epee movement, but it is impressive. Symbolism Clean and entirely in matte black, the Lion Astroclock echoes the styling of the Chronosphere clock of 2018, but with added astronomical elements that reference Coco Chanel. Standing about 35 cm high, the Lion Astroclock is comprised of a base enclosin...

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The most hypnotising telemeter dials you can buy now Time+Tide
Apr 10, 2023

The most hypnotising telemeter dials you can buy now

Although the 2020s is a young decade so far, we’ve already been treated to a wealth of dial enrichment from textures, colours, and even shapes from plenty of big-name brands who traditionally don’t take risks. While that demonstrates a growing trend towards watch enthusiasts enjoying more characterful watches, that doesn’t mean that it’s anything new. … ContinuedThe post The most hypnotising telemeter dials you can buy now appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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A Week In Watches Ep. 44: The New Releases You (Probably) Missed Worn & Wound
Frederique Constant more hits from Chopard Apr 9, 2023

A Week In Watches Ep. 44: The New Releases You (Probably) Missed

Welcome to episode 44 of A Week In Watches, a week where we recover from the hustle bustle of Watches & Wonders, and ponder some of the releases that may have slipped through the cracks. We talk about a new world timer watch from Ming, a few new watches from Frederique Constant, more hits from Chopard, and even a new LM Perpetual variant in steel from MB&F; (more from the M.A.D. House coming soon!). Stay tuned as we get our hands on many of these new release for more in-depth reviews. We also caught wind of a new batch of cities selected to sell the MoonSwatch Mission to Moonshine, for one day only this past week. What will this mean for future availability? Do we want more of these special edition MoonSwatches? Let us know in the comments or head over to YouTube to join the discussion. In total this may have been a somewhat low key year for Watches & Wonders, but there was still plenty to explore and discover, even on the fringes and outside of the show itself. We’ve got an inside look at a few other shows taking place in Geneva last week, so keep an eye out for more from the likes of Sinn, DeBethune, F.P. Journe, Doxa, and others. Let us know what releases caught your eye and what you’d like to see reviewed here at Worn & Wound. This week’s episode is brought to you by the Windup Watch Shop. The post A Week In Watches Ep. 44: The New Releases You (Probably) Missed appeared first on Worn & Wound.

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Thierry Stern has no plans to sell Patek Philippe and is set to introduce the first new collection since 1999 Time+Tide
Patek Philippe Apr 9, 2023

Thierry Stern has no plans to sell Patek Philippe and is set to introduce the first new collection since 1999

When you have the most sought-after watch in the world, it takes humongous cojones to kill it off. While some would say it is insanity, Patek Philippe CEO Thierry Stern, who elected to discontinue the coveted 5711 Nautilus in steel, would probably argue it is discipline. A calculated effort that respects the trust and loyalty … ContinuedThe post Thierry Stern has no plans to sell Patek Philippe and is set to introduce the first new collection since 1999 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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Urwerk auctions the UR-105M Trinity piece unique, inspired by a prehistoric monster Time+Tide
Urwerk auctions Apr 9, 2023

Urwerk auctions the UR-105M Trinity piece unique, inspired by a prehistoric monster

Not many watch brands can be proud of the fact that their watches are inspired by dinosaurs, but the deviant horologists over at Urwerk can claim at least two pieces that have drawn inspiration from these overgrown lizards – the UR-100 T-Rex and UR-105 T-Rex. It is the latter that serves as the base for … ContinuedThe post Urwerk auctions the UR-105M Trinity piece unique, inspired by a prehistoric monster appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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10-year-old treasure hunter at a Sydney beach reunites lost 1975 Cartier Santos with its owner Time+Tide
Cartier Santos Apr 8, 2023

10-year-old treasure hunter at a Sydney beach reunites lost 1975 Cartier Santos with its owner

If you ever lose a watch at Mosman’s Balmoral beach in Sydney, it would seem there is a particular family you need to call to increase your odds of its retrieval. The Daily Mail reported that an elderly British man lost his 1975 Cartier Santos watch while visiting the Sydney beach, but thankfully enlisted a … ContinuedThe post 10-year-old treasure hunter at a Sydney beach reunites lost 1975 Cartier Santos with its owner appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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The Panerai Radiomir California offers a more compact take on their classic dial Time+Tide
Panerai Radiomir California offers Apr 7, 2023

The Panerai Radiomir California offers a more compact take on their classic dial

The Panerai Radiomir California is their first California dial in a 45mm case. For the first time, Panerai have experimented with a faux-aged PVD case. The green and gilt dial gives the watch a lot of old-world charm thanks to modern techniques. Panerai haven’t been the fastest brand to pick up on new trends historically, … ContinuedThe post The Panerai Radiomir California offers a more compact take on their classic dial appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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In Discussion: We Chat With Chris Grainger Inside the IWC Booth at Watches & Wonders Worn & Wound
IWC Booth Apr 7, 2023

In Discussion: We Chat With Chris Grainger Inside the IWC Booth at Watches & Wonders

One of the most talked about releases this year came courtesy of IWC in the form of a new Ingenieur that takes the watch back to its Gerald Genta design era of history. You can see our hands-on impressions of that watch right here. The new watches take clear inspiration from the 1970s footprint, but offer a quite contemporary execution that won’t be mistaken for anything throwback. But that’s not all people were discussing at their year’s Watches & Wonders, the IWC booth made one of the biggest impressions of the whole fair, setting a funky ‘70s engineering aesthetic against the new watches, which even included a Mercedes C-111 mkIII concept car right in the booth.  During our visit to the booth, we ran into IWC CEO (and Worn & Wound Podcast alum) Chris Grainger, who gave us the scoop on the new watches and the booth itself. This watch was a long time coming, as you might imagine, and Chris takes us through some of the development of the design we see today. Oh, and those crown guards? It seems that we’re the only ones that spent any real time stressing about them. See more of our coverage of Watches & Wonders 2023 right here, and head over to our YouTube channel for more of our video content. The post In Discussion: We Chat With Chris Grainger Inside the IWC Booth at Watches & Wonders appeared first on Worn & Wound.

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Big Watches, Small Wrists Part 6: Hublot big love Time+Tide
Hublot big love Today we Apr 7, 2023

Big Watches, Small Wrists Part 6: Hublot big love

Today we enter the world of the Hublot Big Bang, yes that’s right, Hublot one of the most polarising watch brands on the market. They were made famous by the likes of Jay-Z whose lyrics: ”I’m still the man to watch, Hublot on my left hand or not” and his Hublot-centric collection outline his continued … ContinuedThe post Big Watches, Small Wrists Part 6: Hublot big love appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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SJX W&W; Highlights – The Unexpected and the Well-Executed SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Calatrava 24-Hour Display Travel Apr 7, 2023

SJX W&W; Highlights – The Unexpected and the Well-Executed

Because it was the world’s biggest watch brands showing off their latest products at Watches & Wonders (W&W;), surprises seemed unlikely. Yet there were a few surprises at the fair, with several coming from the most conservative brand of all, Rolex, which debuted the now infamous “Bubbles” and “Puzzle”. But the unexpected aside, the fair also saw a number of well-executed new models that were just right, most notably from Cartier, which stuck to what it does well. The Tank Normale in yellow gold with a matching bracelet Surprises A surprise launch, but certainly not unexpected as a highlight, is the Patek Philippe Calatrava 24-Hour Display Travel Time ref. 5224R. Although it appears to be a typical Calatrava at a distance, the ref. 5224R is elegantly different. For one, it is surprisingly large for a Calatrava at 42 mm but typically thin at under 9 mm. The ref. 5224R More unusual is the 24-hour display that is a convenient and smart method of showing two time zones without the need for a day and night indicator. But as is often the case with Patek Philippe, the novelty of the watch was not invented. Its key features, namely the time display and case size, are rooted in history – the watch is modelled on the oversized Chronometro Gondolo pocket watches of the early 20th century. But at over US$57,000, the ref. 5224R is unusually expensive for a two-time zone watch, though that is explained in part by the high-end movement inside that’s shared with the top-of-t...

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Understanding Grand Seiko design at a deeper level with GS designer Akira Yoshida Time+Tide
Grand Seiko design Apr 7, 2023

Understanding Grand Seiko design at a deeper level with GS designer Akira Yoshida

Grand Seiko has attracted a wide base of watch enthusiasts to their products. Previously an underdog trying to break through in regions outside of Japan, there has to be some special quality to the DNA of their watches to garner attention away from usual suspects like Rolex and Omega. Irrefutably the special ingredient in the … ContinuedThe post Understanding Grand Seiko design at a deeper level with GS designer Akira Yoshida appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

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The Rolex Explorer Welcomes New 40mm Case Worn & Wound
Rolex Explorer Welcomes New 40mm Apr 6, 2023

The Rolex Explorer Welcomes New 40mm Case

Just a few short years ago, Rolex surprised all of us by returning the Explorer to its 36mm roots, after a relatively short stint at 39mm. I discuss that move and the watch itself at length in this review of the ever charming 124270. While many lamented the change, there is certainly no shortage of larger sport watches across the Rolex catalog to choose from. This year, Rolex again returns to the Explorer, adding an entirely new size option to live alongside the 36mm case, offering something for everyone with a new Explorer 40 reference 224270. They’ve managed to fix some of the odd proportion issues that plagued the old 39mm 214270 in the process.  The new Rolex Explorer 40 at left, existing 36 at right. The Explorer 40 was was one of many new releases from Rolex this year, and largely fell into quiet territory alongside blockbusters like a new Daytona, a titanium Yacht-Master, an entirely new formal range called Perpetual 1908, and a pair of unusually colorful watches in the OP and Day-Date range. But, for fans of the Explorer missing a larger option, this was a momentous release worth celebrating. This simple, perhaps iconic even, Rolex dial is now more accessible to more wrists than ever, and more options are always a good thing in my book. The Explorer 40 is exactly what it sounds like, a slightly scaled up Explorer with the same dial and case design as the 36. Most importantly, the scale and proportions of the 3, 6, and 9 Arabic numerals, as well as the block hour...

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A Picture of Good Stealth: Luminox Unveils the Master Carbon SEAL Automatic Worn & Wound
Luminox Apr 6, 2023

A Picture of Good Stealth: Luminox Unveils the Master Carbon SEAL Automatic

When it comes to military watches, my mind draws a bold red line between two distinct types. First, there’s the batch that originates from the vintage kin. You know, the Dirty Dozen field watch, the stoic flieger, and of course the quintessential stainless steel diver. Then there’s the modern and robust digital watch equipped with the innovative case material and a slew of multi-functions that you’d need more than two hands to count. But the happy medium between the two has always been within Luminox, a brand that has fostered and maintained a partnership with the U.S. Navy SEALs for three decades and counting. The latest addition to the Navy SEAL Luminox collection blends together a new case material and their patented Luminox Light Technology, while still keeping the spirit of analog time – it’s called the Master Carbon SEAL Automatic inspired by the Frogmen’s grind, grit, and durability. The Master Carbon SEAL Automatic utilizes a lightweight and rugged case made out of CARBONOX+. This forward-looking material boasts ultra-strong and weatherproof properties that in weight, equates to three times lighter than titanium. The unique feature that comes along with the “+” in the CARBONOX+ name is its stealthy gray tint which also displays the fingerprint-esque carbon fiber pattern that is individual to each watch. Except with the Master Carbon SEAL Automatic, the carbon fiber execution is much more subtle, displaying less of the white swirls we’ve seen in ot...

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The Frederique Constant x Revolution Slimline Monolithic FP(S) Showcases Watchmaking’s Past & Future Revolution
Frederique Constant x Revolution Slimline Monolithic Apr 6, 2023

The Frederique Constant x Revolution Slimline Monolithic FP(S) Showcases Watchmaking’s Past & Future

Wei and Jeremiah take a closer look at Revolution’s latest collaboration with Frederique Constant, a brand whose mission is to bring luxury to a wider audience. In 2021, Frederique Constant introduced the Slimline Monolithic, a watch that replaced all 26 components of the oscillator and escapement, instead employing a single silicon disc as the regulating […]

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Introducing the Frederique Constant x Revolution Slimline Monolithic FP(S) at Watches & Wonders 2023 Revolution
Frederique Constant x Revolution Slimline Monolithic Apr 5, 2023

Introducing the Frederique Constant x Revolution Slimline Monolithic FP(S) at Watches & Wonders 2023

At the end of Day 3 at Watches and Wonders 2023, Team Revolution wound up at Frederique Constant’s booth where Wei held a discussion with an esteemed panel of guests about Revolution’s latest limited edition collaboration: The Frederique Constant x Revolution Slimline Monolithic Future Past (Salmon). This watch is an amalgamation of Frederique Constant’s history-making […]

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The New Ming 29.01 Worldtimer Starts Another New Chapter Worn & Wound
Ming Apr 5, 2023

The New Ming 29.01 Worldtimer Starts Another New Chapter

Ming is back with a follow up to their 19.02 Worldtimer, released four years ago. That watch was something of a game-changer for Ming, adding a new complication to the brand’s repertoire, and served as an expansion of their design language. For the new 29.01 Worldtimer, Ming is once again taking a rather large step forward as the brand continues to refine their aesthetic and reimagine what a Ming can be. The concept of the new 29 series, according to Ming, is liquidity. The designs of watches in this new chapter, starting with the Worldtimer, will be defined by smooth, flowing lines, and an organic appearance. That, you might be thinking, kind of describes just about every Ming ever made. But on the 29.01 the brand has taken steps to make the watch appear seamless, as if it’s all of a single piece. The case does not have a bezel, for example, but the crystal is designed to merge directly into the case itself.  The dial is quite complex and appears to be made of two pieces: a main sapphire dial and a 24 hour metallic dial with a gradient effect. Both are heavily lumed, the sapphire portion with HyCeram ceramic Super-LumiNova X1 lume, but they have been executed in such a way as to appear to be merged together. The use of sapphire in the dial itself, the large box crystal, and in the handset contributes to a sense that all of the dial components are floating across different levels, according to the brand. It’s honestly tough to make sense of in the photos, but we ima...

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Brew’s Latest Metric, in PVD Black, is Inspired by 1980s Car Culture and the Sportiest Metric Yet Worn & Wound
Brew s Latest Metric Apr 5, 2023

Brew’s Latest Metric, in PVD Black, is Inspired by 1980s Car Culture and the Sportiest Metric Yet

Brew’s Metric chronograph has become one of the biggest watch hits in the microbrand space since its introduction just a few years ago. The cycle of restock to sellout has been basically uninterrupted since the Metric made its debut in the summer of 2021, and the line recently saw an expansion with a gold plated version that rewired our expectations of what this watch can be. Now, just a few months out from that gold Metric, Brew has dropped a version in black PVD directly inspired by brand founder Jonathan Ferrer’s love of car culture.  All of the Metrics have a solidly vintage infused vibe, but this one is squarely placed in the 80s, and anyone who has spent any amount of time thinking about cars from that decade will immediately understand the connections Brew is making in the design of this watch. The design is overtly sporty, with bright red accents inspired by instrument clusters on 1980s 911s contrasting sharply with the matte black dial and case. The blasted steel pushers and crown dramatically set off the case, and give the watch a tool-like sensibility. But it’s the sleekness of the black coating on the case and bracelet that does the heavy lifting in connecting this watch to 80s sports cars.  Something that we’ve always appreciated about the Metric is its fidelity to a style of sports watch that became popular in the 1970s, watches with shaped cases in sizes that by today’s standards would be considered a bit undersized, but in their day would have j...

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