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Results for Above the Date Window

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Above the Date Window: Steve McQueen's Monaco and What Sotheby's Catalogues Really Tell You

How a sliver of dial real estate above the date window decodes provenance on every screen-worn Heuer Monaco that has passed through Sotheby's and Phillips.

Louis Moinet Introduces the Memoris Spirit 40 Fratello Edition SJX Watches
Omega Moonwatch But Aug 15, 2022

Louis Moinet Introduces the Memoris Spirit 40 Fratello Edition

Based in the capital city of the Netherlands, Fratello Watches is a watch magazine best known for having coined the social media hashtag “Speedy Tuesday” dedicated to the Omega Moonwatch. But its latest announcement comes from the realm of independent watchmaking in the form of the Fratello x Louis Moinet Memoris Spirit 40 Chronograph Limited Edition. A new take on Louis Moinet’s signature chronograph, the Fratello edition will be available on its website on August 16. The 25-piece limited edition employs orange accents to dress up the open-worked aesthetic of the Memoris Spirit, which has a laterally-coupled, column wheel-equipped chronograph constructed on the dial. Initial thoughts More compact than past Louis Moinet chronographs, the Memoris Spirit 40 is wearable and lightweight, although it remains a notably thick watch due to the height of the movement. The height is justified because the watch is all about the movement, which is obviously interesting. All of the intricacies of the chronograph mechanism are exhibited on the dial, making it one of the few watches to have a traditional chronograph set-up visible on the front. However, the base movement relies on the architecture of the Valjoux 7750, which is a good thing from a reliability and functionality perspective, though one would hope for something fancier at this price point. The styling of the watch is simpler than the average Louis Moinet, but still elaborately conceived. The lugs, for instance, are ope...

The Bulgari Octo Finissimo S Silvered is the watch designer’s favourite version of this modern classic. Here’s why… Time+Tide
Bulgari Octo Finissimo S Silvered Aug 13, 2022

The Bulgari Octo Finissimo S Silvered is the watch designer’s favourite version of this modern classic. Here’s why…

Responding to the admittedly fair criticism of offering a sports watch with just 30-metre water-resistance , Bulgari created the S line, with a slightly thicker steel case and screw-down crown, upping the water resistance to 100 metres. The Bulgari Octo Finissimo S Silvered opts for an exercise in supreme subtlety, as the dials adopt the sublime … ContinuedThe post The Bulgari Octo Finissimo S Silvered is the watch designer’s favourite version of this modern classic. Here’s why… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The TAG Heuer Connected Porsche Edition can talk to your car (assuming it’s a Porsche) Time+Tide
TAG Heuer Connected Porsche Edition can Aug 12, 2022

INTRODUCING: The TAG Heuer Connected Porsche Edition can talk to your car (assuming it’s a Porsche)

When car manufacturers and watch brands team up, the word ‘heritage’ gets thrown around a lot. It’s true that watchmaking and motorsport have gone hand in hand for decades and they have a lot of shared history to pull from, but it may also be that mechanical watches just can’t escape that rose-tinted prison of … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The TAG Heuer Connected Porsche Edition can talk to your car (assuming it’s a Porsche) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

As Serena Williams retires, we remember how she wore the hell out of an Audemars Piguet Black Panther Time+Tide
Audemars Piguet Black Panther Editor’s Note: Serena Aug 10, 2022

As Serena Williams retires, we remember how she wore the hell out of an Audemars Piguet Black Panther

Editor’s Note: Serena Williams is one of the greatest athletes of all time – she has 23 grand slam singles titles to prove it. But last night, she announced that she is retiring from professional tennis and (probably) stepping away after the upcoming US Open.  In a column for Vogue, the 40-year-old wrote: “Maybe the best … ContinuedThe post As Serena Williams retires, we remember how she wore the hell out of an Audemars Piguet Black Panther appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Armin Strom Orbit Manufacture Edition: The Subtle Difference Is Black Quill & Pad
Armin Strom Orbit Manufacture Edition Aug 9, 2022

Armin Strom Orbit Manufacture Edition: The Subtle Difference Is Black

For a relatively small manufacture like Armin Strom, scaling the production is not an easy thing, nor something that is always as desirable as it looks. However, creating watches that remain virtually unobtainable for most (potential) clients also isn't. That is why Armin Strom is already releasing the second edition of the Orbit, which is also limited to 25 pieces.

H. Moser & Cie. Introduces the Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon “Cortina Watch” SJX Watches
H. Moser & Cie Introduces Aug 8, 2022

H. Moser & Cie. Introduces the Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon “Cortina Watch”

A great deal of meaning is placed on anniversaries in watchmaking and Cortina Watch is celebrating its Golden Jubilee in 2022 with a slew of limited edition watches and a very special clock. The latest timepiece for the Singapore retailer’s milestone anniversary is the H. Moser & Cie. Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon Skeleton “Cortina Watch 50th Anniversary”. A variant of the Endeavour tourbillon, this 10-piece limited edition watch features the brand’s signature fumé dial in blue, along with a one-minute flying tourbillon equipped with an uncommon cylindrical hairspring.  Initial thoughts The watch combines the elegant and minimal design typical of Moser with the more contemporary that results from the cleanly open-worked movement. And despite being based on an existing model that was just introduced in March of this year, the Cortina edition is still impressive, largely thanks to the skeletonised movement. The cylindrical hairspring maybe be an anachronistic novelty rather than a practical innovation, but one that is rare in modern watchmaking, visually interesting, and historically significant, being rooted in 19th century marine chronometers. Moser aesthetics At 42 mm in diameter, the Cortina edition has the same dimensions as the standard model in white gold. In contrast, the Cortina version is in 18k red gold. Time is indicated on a domed sub-dial at 12 o’clock with the graduated “Funky Blue” finish that is synonymous with Moser. But unlike most othe...

The biggest mistakes you can make when buying vintage Rolex (and how to avoid them) Time+Tide
Rolex Aug 7, 2022

The biggest mistakes you can make when buying vintage Rolex (and how to avoid them)

EDITOR’S NOTE: Jeff Hess is one of the world authorities on Rolex. As CEO of Duber Time and owner of Old Northeast Jewellers and Hess Fine Auctions, he’s bought vintage Rolex for almost 40 years and is the co-author of Rolex Wristwatches: An Unauthorized History (Schiffer Publishing). Here he explains some of the most common pitfalls you’ll face … ContinuedThe post The biggest mistakes you can make when buying vintage Rolex (and how to avoid them) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Ibiza! Capri! St Tropez!  The Hublot Loves Summer Collection captures the feel-good holiday spirit Time+Tide
Hublot Loves Summer Collection captures Aug 7, 2022

Ibiza! Capri! St Tropez! The Hublot Loves Summer Collection captures the feel-good holiday spirit

With record-breaking temperatures searing Europe this summer, it’s safe to say the beaches are an incredibly popular destination right now. To celebrate the launch of pop-up boutiques in three of Europe’s most beautiful coastal areas, Hublot have released a limited-edition watch for each branch. We’ve seen Hublot produce summer-loving watches before, but these new models … ContinuedThe post Ibiza! Capri! St Tropez! The Hublot Loves Summer Collection captures the feel-good holiday spirit appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Fortis Flieger F-39 is a capable alt-take on a pilot’s watch Time+Tide
Fortis Flieger F-39 Aug 6, 2022

The Fortis Flieger F-39 is a capable alt-take on a pilot’s watch

Fortis has taken inspiration from the heavens for years, whether that be via space flights, or through creating impressive pilot’s watches. Starting in the late 80s, the first Fortis Flieger had a classic type-B layout, sword hands and no-nonsense case architecture. By 1994, Fortis’ functional approach already saw light of day, as they introduced a utilitarian … ContinuedThe post The Fortis Flieger F-39 is a capable alt-take on a pilot’s watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Zodiac Watches: A Comprehensive History and Guide to the Modern Collec Teddy Baldassarre
Zodiac Aug 3, 2022

Zodiac Watches: A Comprehensive History and Guide to the Modern Collec

If you’ve only recently discovered Zodiac watches - a strong likelihood, as its most well-known and popular model, the Super Sea Wolf, has only been back on the market since 2015 - you may be surprised to learn that Zodiac traces its watchmaking history all the way back to 1882, and that it launched the first Sea Wolf dive watch back in 1953, placing it in the same historical company as other pioneering dive watches debuting in that seminal year, like the much more heralded Rolex Submariner and Blancpain Fifty Fathoms. Today the most prestigious and historical watch brand within the huge, Texas-based Fossil Group, Zodiac continues its longstanding tradition of offering distinctively styled Swiss Made watches at accessible prices, with some of the most popular models reviving its milestone designs from the mid-20th Century. THE BEGINNINGS Second-generation watchmaker Ariste Calame founded the workshop that would grow into the Zodiac watch company in 1882 in Le Locle, in Switzerand’s Jura Mountains. The first timepieces Calame made there were originally branded under his own name. In 1895, the founder’s son Louis Ariste Calame, who had also trained as a watchmaker, took over the business at the age of 20 and registered the name “Zodiac” in 1908, applying it to the innovative flat pocket watches, called Zodiac Triumph, which the company began producing in 1924, equipped with the in-house Caliber 1617 (below, via Watchuseek). In the wake of World War I, however, ...

G-Shock Introduces the Full-Metal “Octagonal Bezel” GM-B2100 SJX Watches
Aug 2, 2022

G-Shock Introduces the Full-Metal “Octagonal Bezel” GM-B2100

One of G-Shock’s biggest hits in recent years, the octagonal 2100 series appears to be a new design (or one derived from a famous watch reated by Gerald Genta), but is in fact an adaptation of the first G-Shock from 1983, the DW-5000C. Both the 2100 and DW-5000C share an eight-sided bezel, but the bezel of the 1983 watch was an irregular octagon while the 2100 is a regular octagon. Debuted in all-resin and followed by a version in a mix of metal and resin, the 2100 series was never available in metal from end to end until now. The Japanese watchmaker has just taken the covers off an all-steel iteration, the Full-Metal GM-B2100, available in black coating, rose gold plating, and steel. Initial thoughts The original 2100 in colorful resin is a appealing, affordable watch, explaining its popularity. Perhaps part of the appeal is its similarity to the Royal Oak, but there are other reasons that distinguish it from the countless G-Shocks variations, one being its compact dimensions and resulting comfort on the wrist. Now it gets even better with a metal bracelet. Due to the aggressive fluting on the case sides along with the dimples on the bracelet links, the watch has an industrial or military feel, which is perfectly suited to the robust nature of a G-Shock. Ironically, my favorite of the trio is the rose gold-plated version. Besides being an uncommon finish for watches in this price range, there’s a sense of humour in its passing resemblance to a rose gold Royal Oak. The...

Breitling Introduces the Navitimer Singapore Airlines Editions SJX Watches
Breitling Introduces Aug 2, 2022

Breitling Introduces the Navitimer Singapore Airlines Editions

Best known for supplying customised watches to air force squadrons, Breitling has less frequently made watches for civilian aviators, but the brand’s latest is a pair of watches created in partnership with one of the world’s best carriers. Each limited to 100 pieces, the Navitimer B01 Chronograph 41 Singapore Airlines and Navitimer Automatic 38 Singapore Airlines are both dressed in the blue and gold livery of city state’s flag carrier. Initial thoughts For some two decades, Singapore Airlines (SIA) has consistently been ranked amongst the world’s best carriers by airline consultancy Skytrax, so the the tie-up is certainly a good one for Breitling. Fortunately SIA’s corporate colours are a pleasing blue and gold that work well on the Navitimer. The gold accents on the dial give it a slightly more retro feel than the standard models in steel, which uniformly have rhodium-plated markers and hands. For anyone who already likes either Navitimer model but wants something a bit more striking, the SIA editions certainly have their appeal. While the gold accents are appealing, they are the only element that distinguishes the dial of the SIA editions. The chronograph, for instance, is almost identical to the standard Navitimer 41 mm with a dark blue dial, with the only difference being the gold-plated hands and indices. This similarity to the respective standard models is probably the only shortcoming of either edition. Each edition is priced almost 10% more expensiv...