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FRIDAY WIND DOWN: This is the worst thing in the watch world ever Time+Tide
Aug 19, 2022

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: This is the worst thing in the watch world ever

There’s a necessary change of format to this week’s Wind Down because we’ve discovered the worst thing in the watch world ever. Admittedly, there’s some pretty stiff competition out there in a nefarious scene full of flippers, fakes and 4 o’clock date windows. But a forthcoming auction at Bonhams really takes the horological biscuit. The … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: This is the worst thing in the watch world ever appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The IWC Portugeiser Automatic and Chronograph in white and blue Time+Tide
IWC Portugeiser Automatic Aug 19, 2022

INTRODUCING: The IWC Portugeiser Automatic and Chronograph in white and blue

Without any unnecessary fluff or circumstance, the two latest additions to the IWC Portugeiser range are simply gorgeous and elegant designs with a focus on contrast. While the last few years have shown an exciting trend towards more colourful and expressive watches, it can sometimes feel like there isn’t much available for those who prefer … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The IWC Portugeiser Automatic and Chronograph in white and blue appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Up Close: Franc Vila FVF1 C2 Tourbillon Superligero SJX Watches
Aug 18, 2022

Up Close: Franc Vila FVF1 C2 Tourbillon Superligero

Short for “Franc Vila Founder”, FVF is a tale of redemption. Founded by the namesake designer, FVF is the second act of the Spanish watch designer, one he embarked on after his first went off the rails as many independent watch brands tend to do. FVF’s inaugural watch is the FVF1 C2 Tourbillon Superligero. It’s an original look and at a glance there’s nothing linking it to the creations of the original Franc Vila brand – a good thing in my estimation. But look closely and hints of the earlier designs emerge. Most importantly the FVF1 reveals itself as an impressively executed watch – the movement has an interesting construction, excellent finishing, and an original aesthetic. Mr Vila has made his comeback in style. NB: The watch pictured is a prototype that’s been worn so it shows wear. The FVF1 has a flying tourbillon, roller day indicator, day and night display, and a 100-hour power reserve Rising from the ashes Born in Valencia but now a longtime resident of Switzerland, Mr Vila founded his namesake brand in 2005 and rode the wave that buoyed modern, flamboyant independent watchmaking for the next decade or so. Propelled by Mr Vila’s convivial personality, Franc Vila became one of the hot brands of the era. During those heady days, it could sell several dozen tourbillons and minute repeaters a year, making it one of the top clients of now-defunct complications specialist BNB Concept. A classic from the original Franc Vila brand, the Tourbillon Planèta...

The Baltic x Peter Auto Tricompax is a racing chronograph with retro swagger Time+Tide
Baltic x Peter Auto Tricompax Aug 18, 2022

The Baltic x Peter Auto Tricompax is a racing chronograph with retro swagger

The art of the vintage-inspired watch, especially when done by a young brand such as Baltic, is in honouring the allure of the past while remaining relevant to a modern audience. Nostalgia has always played a big part in human culture, but we must also accept that there is no stopping the flow of time … ContinuedThe post The Baltic x Peter Auto Tricompax is a racing chronograph with retro swagger appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS ON: Is this green Omega Seamaster 300 the most attractive ever? Time+Tide
Omega Seamaster 300 Aug 18, 2022

HANDS ON: Is this green Omega Seamaster 300 the most attractive ever?

Green, green, oh… green. In 2021, green was the undisputed colour of the year with every watch manufacture under the sun presenting a design in the hue. Sure, you can’t go wrong with a black or white dial – their versatility is unmatched. But collectors need colour to liven up their watch boxes, and even … ContinuedThe post HANDS ON: Is this green Omega Seamaster 300 the most attractive ever? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Panerai Watches Guide Teddy Baldassarre
Panerai Aug 17, 2022

Panerai Watches Guide

Tracing its roots to the 19th Century but bursting on the cultural scene on the cusp of the 21st, Panerai is an overnight success more than 100 years in the making. From humble and very utilitarian beginnings as a maker of tools and instruments for military divers in the 1930s, the Florentine watchmaker has become a powerhouse in the luxury sector, its unapologetically militaristic and indisputably masculine designs blurring the lines between tool watch and luxury item like few brands before or since. Here is the story of Officine Panerai and an overview of the modern Panerai watch collections. Guido Panerai and the First Radiomir Giovanni Panerai opened his watchmaking shop on Ponte Alle Grazie in Florence in 1860, and with the help of his son Leon Franceso built it into the ancestral Italian city’s first retailer of Swiss watches as well as its first watchmaking school. When Giovanni’s grandson Guido took over the business, near the turn of the century - and acquired his wife’s family business, which made tools and hardware for military use, including combat sights, compasses and depth gauges - it had become essentially two companies: Orologerie Svizzera, the shop that sold prestigious Swiss watch brands like Patek Philippe, Vacheron Constantin, and Rolex; and Guido Panerai & Figlio, primarily a supplier of precision instruments and diving equipment to the Royal Italian Navy, or Regia Marina.  As a military provider, Panerai recognized the need early on f...

The Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda chronograph is the essence of sporty luxury Time+Tide
Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda chronograph Aug 17, 2022

The Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda chronograph is the essence of sporty luxury

Parmigiani Fleurier’s approach to design has taken a minimalist turn of late, most notably with the Tonda PF collection. Nevertheless, as a maker of luxury sports watches, they’re still striving to find ways to implement that athletic aesthetic into their pieces, and the ones we had the pleasure of looking at here give a great … ContinuedThe post The Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda chronograph is the essence of sporty luxury appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Did Grand Seiko just give us the perfect two-watch collection? Time+Tide
Grand Seiko just give us Aug 17, 2022

Did Grand Seiko just give us the perfect two-watch collection?

A few days ago, as I sat in front of my watch box, a familiar thought crossed my mind. One I’ve already shared with you all before. And that’s the feeling that I own too many watches. Some may consider this a random thought but when 10 watches are staring back at you, it’s not … ContinuedThe post Did Grand Seiko just give us the perfect two-watch collection? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

In Depth: Louis Vuitton Tambour Spin Time Air SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton Tambour Spin Time Air Aug 15, 2022

In Depth: Louis Vuitton Tambour Spin Time Air

Since it acquired Geneva complications specialist La Fabrique du Temps in 2012 Louis Vuitton has been steadily growing and refining its complicated watch offering. Last year it debuted the Carpe Diem minute repeater with automaton, the most complex watch LDFT has developed to date. But the signature completion of Louis Vuitton (LV) is still the patented three-dimensional jumping hours known as Spin Time. The complication relies on 12 cubes to indicate the hours, rotating one by one every hour. Since its introduction in 2009, the Spin Time has been iterated into a variety of formats, including a GMT, regatta countdown chronograph, and most recently a glow-in-the-dark extravaganza. But its most refined form is arguably the Spin Time Air launched in 2019 that has a dozen “floating” cubes arrayed around a movement suspended between the front and back crystals. Initial thoughts The Spin Time Air has all the elements of an interesting watch. Both transparent and striking, the “floating” display brings to mind historical mystery timepieces, with the tall Tambour case serving as the perfect frame for the suspended display. But it is the cubic hour display sets it apart. The hour display is truly unique, even when compared against the most exotic in independent watchmaking. It brings to mind Urwerk’s cubic display found in the UR-210, but that’s a three-dimensional reinterpretation of the wandering hours, whereas the Spin Time is actually an innovative take on the jum...

Watches that will help you calm down and cheer up Time+Tide
Aug 15, 2022

Watches that will help you calm down and cheer up

We don’t want be party-poopers here, but let’s face it, the End Times do increasingly seem to be nigh. Reasons not to be cheerful include global warming, the pandemic, the ongoing war in the Ukraine and escalating tensions in Taiwan. Throw in a spot of monkeypox and the fact that a pint of beer now … ContinuedThe post Watches that will help you calm down and cheer up appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS ON: The Horage Supersede is an indy GMT that overdelivers on expectations Time+Tide
Aug 15, 2022

HANDS ON: The Horage Supersede is an indy GMT that overdelivers on expectations

The watch space has arguably never been more exciting and this is largely due to the rise of independents and microbrands. To permeate through so many established brands, these smaller players know they need to deliver standout timepieces – whether through distinct aesthetics or exceptional value propositions. One independent that has definitely caught the attention of … ContinuedThe post HANDS ON: The Horage Supersede is an indy GMT that overdelivers on expectations appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Louis Moinet Introduces the Memoris Spirit 40 Fratello Edition SJX Watches
Omega Moonwatch But Aug 15, 2022

Louis Moinet Introduces the Memoris Spirit 40 Fratello Edition

Based in the capital city of the Netherlands, Fratello Watches is a watch magazine best known for having coined the social media hashtag “Speedy Tuesday” dedicated to the Omega Moonwatch. But its latest announcement comes from the realm of independent watchmaking in the form of the Fratello x Louis Moinet Memoris Spirit 40 Chronograph Limited Edition. A new take on Louis Moinet’s signature chronograph, the Fratello edition will be available on its website on August 16. The 25-piece limited edition employs orange accents to dress up the open-worked aesthetic of the Memoris Spirit, which has a laterally-coupled, column wheel-equipped chronograph constructed on the dial. Initial thoughts More compact than past Louis Moinet chronographs, the Memoris Spirit 40 is wearable and lightweight, although it remains a notably thick watch due to the height of the movement. The height is justified because the watch is all about the movement, which is obviously interesting. All of the intricacies of the chronograph mechanism are exhibited on the dial, making it one of the few watches to have a traditional chronograph set-up visible on the front. However, the base movement relies on the architecture of the Valjoux 7750, which is a good thing from a reliability and functionality perspective, though one would hope for something fancier at this price point. The styling of the watch is simpler than the average Louis Moinet, but still elaborately conceived. The lugs, for instance, are ope...

MICRO MONDAYS: The CIGA Design Blue Planet won a GPHG award, yet is still surprisingly affordable Time+Tide
Aug 15, 2022

MICRO MONDAYS: The CIGA Design Blue Planet won a GPHG award, yet is still surprisingly affordable

During my time at Time+Tide, the flow of curious timekeepers coming across my desk has been constant, yet, the CIGA Design Blue Planet stands out as one of the more notable ones. As the first Chinese brand to ever win an award at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève, claiming the Challenge Watch Prize in … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The CIGA Design Blue Planet won a GPHG award, yet is still surprisingly affordable appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Evolution of a collection: Nick Faldo’s watch box steers well clear of the rough Time+Tide
Aug 14, 2022

Evolution of a collection: Nick Faldo’s watch box steers well clear of the rough

There wasn’t a dry eye in the house when golfing and broadcast legend Sir Nick Faldo recently ended his final broadcast as CBS’ golf analyst for the past 16 years. With a career that includes 41 tournament wins, including three British Open and three Masters victories, as well as captaining the European Ryder Cup team, … ContinuedThe post Evolution of a collection: Nick Faldo’s watch box steers well clear of the rough appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Bulgari Octo Finissimo S Silvered is the watch designer’s favourite version of this modern classic. Here’s why… Time+Tide
Bulgari Octo Finissimo S Silvered Aug 13, 2022

The Bulgari Octo Finissimo S Silvered is the watch designer’s favourite version of this modern classic. Here’s why…

Responding to the admittedly fair criticism of offering a sports watch with just 30-metre water-resistance , Bulgari created the S line, with a slightly thicker steel case and screw-down crown, upping the water resistance to 100 metres. The Bulgari Octo Finissimo S Silvered opts for an exercise in supreme subtlety, as the dials adopt the sublime … ContinuedThe post The Bulgari Octo Finissimo S Silvered is the watch designer’s favourite version of this modern classic. Here’s why… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: New Grand Seiko 9F GMTs, gift-giving footballers and Louis Monet x Fratello Time+Tide
Grand Seiko 9F GMTs gift-giving footballers Aug 12, 2022

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: New Grand Seiko 9F GMTs, gift-giving footballers and Louis Monet x Fratello

Zach has just departed on a well-deserved holiday and is currently basking on a sun-lounger wearing a Hawaiian shirt loud enough to make your ears ring. So it’s up to me to pick up the Wind Down slack and bring you a few bulletins from the watch world this week. First up, take a minute … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: New Grand Seiko 9F GMTs, gift-giving footballers and Louis Monet x Fratello appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The Seiko Prospex SRPJ53K “Eucalyptus” Time+Tide
Seiko Prospex SRPJ53K “Eucalyptus” Seiko Aug 11, 2022

INTRODUCING: The Seiko Prospex SRPJ53K “Eucalyptus”

Seiko has gone beyond the green and gold to release two watches inspired by Australia’s natural environment that will be limited to the Australasian market. We’ll tackle the first of these now: the Prospex SRPJ35K “Eucalyptus”, but you can read our first impressions of the Prospex SBP347J “Noosa” right here. Both watches are released along … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Seiko Prospex SRPJ53K “Eucalyptus” appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Fantasy Watch Ambassador: Willem Dafoe and the ever-cheeky Konstantin Chaykin Time+Tide
Grand Seiko Aug 11, 2022

Fantasy Watch Ambassador: Willem Dafoe and the ever-cheeky Konstantin Chaykin

Editor’s Note: When Nicolas Cage recently gushed over his Grand Seiko on the red carpet, many of you in the comments noted how he should become an ambassador for the brand – and we agreed it would definitely be a fun pairing. This then got us thinking what other ambassador match-ups we would want to see. … ContinuedThe post Fantasy Watch Ambassador: Willem Dafoe and the ever-cheeky Konstantin Chaykin appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Up Close: Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 5226G SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref 5226G Continuing Aug 11, 2022

Up Close: Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 5226G

Continuing the brand’s well-known intentions to liven up the Calatrava, Patek Philippe unveiled a brand-new take on its quintessential dress watch at Watches & Wonders earlier this year, the Calatrava ref. 5226G-01. The ref. 5226G indicates where the Calatrava line is going – more contemporary design, albeit still informed by vintage models hence the faux vintage lume, which is enhanced with sharper and higher quality detailing. Despite an entry-level watch of sorts (despite a substantial price tag), the ref. 5226G is nonetheless elaborately executed. The hobnail decoration found on last year’s ref. 6119 “Clous de Paris”, for instance, has been repurposed and applied to the case band. The dial gets a pronounced grained finish And the case a clous de Paris decoration Initial thoughts I first encountered the ref. 5226G in larger-than-life format when it appeared on the floor-to-ceiling display on the side of Patek Philippe at Watches & Wonders. The scale of the projection meant the patterned dial and hobnail case were instantly obvious. Though unexpected elements in an entry-level Patek Philippe, they work well together, both on screen and in real life. Patek Philippe at Watches & Wonders 2022 with its oversized digital display. Image – Watches & Wonders When I tried on the watch during the fair, my positive impression was reinforced. Even though the ref. 5226G is a combination of elements not usually put together, it is compelling and appealing in the metal. ...

31 Gold Watches for Men at Every Price Range Teddy Baldassarre
Aug 10, 2022

31 Gold Watches for Men at Every Price Range

Stainless steel sport-luxury watches are definitely having a moment in the watch collectors' spotlight lately, but the enduring appeal of gold watches remains undeniable. Timepieces in precious metals not only project a confident aura of elegance; they also represent a tangible value that can be passed on to future generations. Of course, gold watches tend to be a much more significant investment in terms of price than watches in steel, but watch connoisseurs of more modest means have a fair amount of options as well when it comes to achieving that classic gold look, from plated and PVD-treated models to bi-material (aka two-tone) timepieces that blend some gold elements with steel. In this compilation, we'll list some of our favorites in those more budget-conscious categories as well as some recent standouts in the most popular styles: yellow-gold, rose-gold, and white-gold. GOLD TONE: Those seeking their first gold watch may want to consider some of these gold-plated and PVD options from respected brands that are known for solid quality and attractive designs at attainable prices. Casio Vintage Gold A168GW-9VT Price: $65, Reference: A168GW-9VT, Case Size: 38.6mm x 36.3mm, Case Height: 9.6mm, Crystal: Resin Glass, Water Resistance: Water-Resistant, Movement: Quartz Digital While its most iconic contribution to the watch world is undoubtedly the mega-popular G-Shock, Japan’s Casio offers different styles of digital timekeeping in its retro-influenced Vintage series, t...

Scratching beneath the surface – should you engrave your watch? Time+Tide
Aug 10, 2022

Scratching beneath the surface – should you engrave your watch?

Watches have always been much more than tellers of time. They hold memories and are one of the most personal items someone can own. With that in mind, it shouldn’t be surprising when more is added to the equation by getting a watch engraved. Whether through a message or symbol etched on the back, it’s … ContinuedThe post Scratching beneath the surface – should you engrave your watch? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

As Serena Williams retires, we remember how she wore the hell out of an Audemars Piguet Black Panther Time+Tide
Audemars Piguet Black Panther Editor’s Note: Serena Aug 10, 2022

As Serena Williams retires, we remember how she wore the hell out of an Audemars Piguet Black Panther

Editor’s Note: Serena Williams is one of the greatest athletes of all time – she has 23 grand slam singles titles to prove it. But last night, she announced that she is retiring from professional tennis and (probably) stepping away after the upcoming US Open.  In a column for Vogue, the 40-year-old wrote: “Maybe the best … ContinuedThe post As Serena Williams retires, we remember how she wore the hell out of an Audemars Piguet Black Panther appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Armin Strom Orbit Manufacture Edition: The Subtle Difference Is Black Quill & Pad
Armin Strom Orbit Manufacture Edition Aug 9, 2022

Armin Strom Orbit Manufacture Edition: The Subtle Difference Is Black

For a relatively small manufacture like Armin Strom, scaling the production is not an easy thing, nor something that is always as desirable as it looks. However, creating watches that remain virtually unobtainable for most (potential) clients also isn't. That is why Armin Strom is already releasing the second edition of the Orbit, which is also limited to 25 pieces.

Why my paranoia about toxic metals means I need a gold watch. Maybe several… Time+Tide
Aug 9, 2022

Why my paranoia about toxic metals means I need a gold watch. Maybe several…

I’ve always associated gold watches with Bond villains and 1980s stockbrokers – and yet I still want to be wealthy enough to wear them. Why? Because wearing steel watches freaks me out – even if it is just a little. You see, most watch cases use 316L steel, otherwise known as surgical grade steel. It’s … ContinuedThe post Why my paranoia about toxic metals means I need a gold watch. Maybe several… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

IN-DEPTH: The Longines Spirit Zulu Time Collection Time+Tide
Longines Spirit Zulu Time Collection Aug 9, 2022

IN-DEPTH: The Longines Spirit Zulu Time Collection

The ability to display two time zones on a single dial has cropped up quite a lot over the course of history, but it was rarely more than a niche curiosity before the advent of flying. Now, the idea of a pilot’s watch without a GMT complication feels somewhat incomplete, and that’s why the new … ContinuedThe post IN-DEPTH: The Longines Spirit Zulu Time Collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

MICRO MONDAYS: The RZE Valour 38 delivers a titanium field watch for under $300 USD Time+Tide
Aug 8, 2022

MICRO MONDAYS: The RZE Valour 38 delivers a titanium field watch for under $300 USD

It’s hard to believe RZE have only been around for two years, but they are one of the ultimate microbrand success stories. Having released their first watch in the heart of the 2020 Coronavirus pandemic, nobody particularly expected the emerging business to survive, but during that period, online watch sales skyrocketed. In particular, RZE found … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The RZE Valour 38 delivers a titanium field watch for under $300 USD appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.