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Quill & Pad
Top Burgundy has exploded like a firecracker factory set alight. From very much a second fiddle to Bordeaux when it comes to the great wines of France, Burgundy is now the flavor of the month, attracting prices that have skyrocketed into the stratosphere and beyond, both on release and on the secondary market. Everyone wants the great Burgundies. And Domaine Mongeard-Mugneret is one of the crown jewels.
Hodinkee
First introduced in 2009, the Omnium is back with all-new tech.
Deployant
Bulova is presents a re-edition of their original 1973 Chronograph "31008-6W" timepiece, popularly known as the "Parking Meter."
Hodinkee
An exhibit nearly a century in the making.
SJX Watches
Having made it a point to collaborate with contemporary artists – last year the brand recruited tattooist Dr Woo to design a watch – Roger Dubuis has now turned to Hajime Sorayama. Best known for his mirrored, metallic female robots – which were the centrepiece of Dior’s 2019 men’s collection – the Japanese illustrator applied his aesthetic to Roger Dubuis’s signature time-only wristwatch to create the Excalibur Sorayama Monobalancier. The Excalibur is perhaps the quintessential face for the Roger Dubuis of today. Skeletonised and sharply sculpted, the watch – as well as its movement – have been reworked by Mr Sorayama in the manner of his trademark robot drawings. Both the watch case and movement gain the rounded, mirror-polished finish that define Mr Sorayama’s work, which extends to depictions of Mickey Mouse and dinosaurs. A typical Sorayama work: Untitled, 2018. Image – Art Basel Initial thoughts Roger Dubuis’ current offerings are ultra-modern timepieces that are done well in both construction and finish, but they are often overshadowed by their traditional predecessors. That’s a shame because watches such as the Monobalancier are amongst the better examples of a sporty, skeletonised watch. Already original and creative in both the movement and case, the Monobalancier is now made more appealing with the Sorayama touch. The artist has given the watch a makeover that’s subtle yet significant, reshaping some elements and giving most of t...
Deployant
The 1970s were a period of upheaval and turmoil for the mechanical watchmaking industry. This was the time of the “quartz crisis” during which the advent of quartz watches, with its superior accuracy at a much lower cost, had posed an existential threat to the Swiss watch industry. The quartz crisis led to a majorRead More
Hodinkee
Plus, some of our favorite watches that we spotted during the Las Vegas tournament.
Hodinkee
Fresh from London for the launch of the new Ranger, Mark Kauzlarich joins Jack and James to chat about the latest from Tudor.
Quill & Pad
The Louis Moinet Only India is an intricate and colorful display of craftsmanship with a celestial hook that Joshua Munchow can’t ignore: a small fragment of the original Shergotty meteorite used as a centerpiece for the dial honoring aspects of Indian culture.
Hodinkee
The pair's sophomore collaboration continues the aqua-blue ethos.
Hodinkee
He changes outfits, but never the TAG in our watch-related movie of the week.
SJX Watches
Introduced just last year, the Promaster Mechanical Diver 200m is an distinctive and compelling “tool” watch with an over-the-top style and impressive specs that include a hardened titanium case and magnetism-resistant movement. Now the watch returns in even more striking livery in a limited edition that will be available only in Asia. Dressed in green and gold, the Promaster Mechanical Diver 200m Asia Limited Edition “Green Anaconda” has a hobnailed dial and bezel, while the case, bracelet, and bezel are all black coated. Initial thoughts The original model was easy to like, especially if you like chunky dive watches. Its technical features are amongst the best in at its price segment, while the slightly exaggerated styling also helps it stand out in the crowded segment of affordable dive watches. What the first version lacked, however, was flair. Thought the watch was big and hard to miss, it was dressed almost entirely in shades of grey, which felt too restrained for the size and design. The “Green Anaconda” certainly took that lesson to heart with its striking colours that leave the hobnail patterning seem even more obvious than before. The colours and textures are brought out even more by the contrast with the black-coated case and bracelet. They are finished in diamond-like carbon (DLC), resulting in a charcoal finish that’s slightly glossy. The dark finish also makes the watch look smaller than it is, which is useful given its 46 mm diameter. With...
Revolution
Patek Philippe combines its Annual Calendar and Travel Time complications in a new watch that is very elegant, very dynamic, and in the words of its president Thierry Stern, “very Patek.”
Hodinkee
Solid sizing, great specs, and a fair price to boot? The new Ranger is what field watches are all about.
SJX Watches
The result of a collaboration between a Danish clockmaker and design studio , the Moonwork is a tall, sculptural clock that stands almost two meters high. It’s an old-school pendulum clock in function but entirely contemporary in expression, from the thin, minimalist frame to the clever time display without hands. Danish clockmaker Rune Bakkendorff worked together with fellow Danes of design studio Ahm&Lund; to create the clock, which made its debut late last year at the Cabinetmakers Autumn Exhibit 2021, a Scandinavian furniture fair that took place in Copenhagen. The Moonwork at the furniture exhibition. Photo – Scandinaviandesign.com Initial thoughts A thoughtfully designed object, the Moonwork is attractive on several levels. At first glance, it is slender, simplistic, and hardly resembling a clock save for the pendulum. But paradoxically it is a clock, making the featureless time display is immediately intriguing. It is a clock, but not quite. The Moonwork does away with the conventional telling of the time and instead displays the lunar cycle – the moon phase is projected onto the white porcelain dome that forms the dial. An impractical but beautiful solution, this makes the Moonwork more of a sculpture that indicates the passing of the time. Remove the white porcelain dome and the entirely mechanical workings of the clock are revealed, although moon phase projection relies hundreds of LED bulbs that are hidden behind a silver sphere that rotates slowly to ca...
Hodinkee
Max Büsser and his cohorts at his horological think tank, MB&F;, have, without question, created a bewildering variety of watches over the years that have used horology as a jumping off point for the exploration of a highly idiosyncratic vocabulary of watchmaking, in which mechanics put themselves at the service of an aesthetics that freely mingles everything from pop culture to science fiction to sometimes alarming arachnomorphism, and beyond. However, what MB&F; thus far has largely not addressed itself to is the world of traditional complications – other than the tourbillon, used by MB&F; for its aesthetic impact, you will look in vain for anything beyond a simple calendar or a moonphase. Now, however, MB&F; and Büsser have gotten into the complications game in a big way: they’ve launched their own perpetual calendar, and, what’s more, they’ve done so with an in-house movement, with a variation on the perpetual calendar mechanism unlike anything we’ve seen so far.
Hodinkee
A king among complications meets the ice queen of metals.
SJX Watches
Launched as part of the “Homage to F.A. Lange” 175th anniversary collection in HoneyGold two years ago, the 1815 Rattrapante was the only one of the trio that was all-new model. In fact, it was the German watchmaker’s first pure-play split-seconds chronograph, and surprisingly svelte by its standards. Though the anniversary edition sold out swiftly, the watch is making a comeback with a platinum case and silver dial. A pleasing and familiar combination most often seen on its simpler models, the silver-and-blue livery is uncommon for Lange chronographs, which tend to have dark-coloured dials, making the new split-seconds unusual. The anniversary 1815 Rattrapante Initial thoughts Essentially variation of the original with different case and dial, the new 1815 Rattrapante is still noteworthy because the original in HoneyGold was limited to only 100 pieces but deserved a broader audience because it was appealing on several levels. The watch is thin and understated, unlike most Lange complications, but nevertheless boasts a movement with the visual depth and impeccable decoration typical of the brand. While the new model has the standard movement decoration instead of a frosted finish, the most obvious difference between the two is on the front. The platinum version has an understated, tone-on-tone look that I prefer over the high-contrast look of the anniversary model. While the all-silver look may seem too simple at a glance, it’s been given a bit of life with red...
Revolution
Jeremiah speaks with CEO and owner of H. Moser & Cie, Edouard Meylan, who was in Singapore to introduce a limited edition Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon Skeleton to commemorate the 50th Anniversary of local luxury watch retailer Cortina. The partnership between Moser and Cortina goes back two generations and looks set to grow in the Asia […]
Deployant
As promised here is our hands on detailed review of the new Greubel Forsey Tourbillon 24 Secondes Architecture. With live photography.
Hodinkee
Powerhouse dealers Analog:Shift and Collectability team up for Meeting Point, a New York exhibition of Patek Philippe's atomic age master clocks – including an ultra-rare clock bearing the Rolex and Patek double signature.
Hodinkee
Finding the right color for these cases required more than looking at a paint swatch.
Hodinkee
HYT lumes large with propriety materials and a new complication designed to capture the light of the moon.
SJX Watches
A watchmaker with many a musician as brand ambassadors, Audemars Piguet has just unveiled a quintet of sports watches sporting a motif inspired by the digital display of a graphic equaliser, a piece of audio equipment used to vary the volume of frequency bands. Taking its inspiration quite literally, the Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Music Edition has the familiar tapisserie dial pattern but dressed up with the vertical lines of the display on a graphic equaliser. And in its fanciest form, the latest model renders the equaliser motif in colour gemstones that continue onto the bezel. Initial thoughts As with many of the brand’s more extravagant releases, the Music Edition is almost tacky but manages to pull it off. Decidedly modern and very much over the top, the colourful chequerboard is a fun, striking look that distinguishes the watch from every other Royal Oak, which is an accomplishment given the strength of the octagonal design. Traditionalists will sure disprove of the way the tapisserie dial has been reinvented, but it is certainly in keeping with the bold and adventurous style of the Le Brassus watchmaker. And that has its appeal in moderate doses. The secret to such over-the-top watches is to do it infrequently and as long as AP doesn’t repeat this often or regularly, the Music Edition is different and cool. The dial of the gem-set model is blue aventurine glass, adding another layer of sparkle to the watch Between the two dials available, the gem-set versi...
SJX Watches
A venerable retailer of vintage timepieces and independent watchmaking, Shellman marks its 50th year in business. Still in its landmark Ginza store that curiously sits slightly below street level, the Tokyo retailer has announced a series of one-off and limited edition watches to mark the occasion. The latest commemorative edition is a pair from Habring², the Felix Shellman 50th Anniversary and Chrono-Felix Shellman 50th Anniversary, both featuring a discreet champagne-tone sector dial with thoughtful details. The flagship Shellman store in Tokyo’s Ginza district Initial thoughts Habring² offers honest quality and solid engineering, which makes it tangible qualities impeachable, especially in its price segment. So the appeal of a specific Habring² watch boils down to its specific design. While sector dials are common today, perhaps too common, Shellman was a pioneer in this type of design, having debuted its first Habring² with a sector dial in 2017, well before the style became a fad. For that reason, these anniversary watches have a stronger resonance than the average sector dial. The time-only And the two are also intrinsically appealing because of their careful design. At a distance both appear to be typical “sector” dials – attractive but more of the same. Up close, however, the dial designs are both smartly executed with strong attention to detail. The leaf-shape hands, for instance, are a familiar shape, but here they are heavier than usual, giving the ...
Quill & Pad
When Ken Gargett first heard mention of a gin called Monkey 47, he assumed it must fall very much in the novelty category. Then he tried it and it has been his favorite gin ever since. Here Ken shares the story, more than likely a mix of fact and the apocryphal, of how Monkey 47 gin came to be. And it involves a watchmaker!
Hodinkee
Tudor's new 39mm watch is the latest in a line of watches that honors the old while bringing in the best of the new.
Hodinkee
Comic- and watch-nerdery unite on the red carpet.
Hodinkee
Plus, Pedro Pascal rocks two-tone Datejust in our watch-related movie of the week.
SJX Watches
Conceived as a watch for explorers, the Ranger arrived in its current form with an Arabic-numeral dial in the 1960s, although the name dates to 1929. Although the model was revived in 2014, it never really caught on. Now that looks set to change with the brand-new Ranger that’s a subtly but substantial upgrade over its predecessor. Now housed in a better-proportioned case that now contains an in-house movement, the new Ranger becomes Tudor’s most affordable watch with a proprietary movement, thanks to its retail price that starts well under US$3,000. Initial thoughts For watchmaker that excels in affordable, reliable watches, the Ranger makes a lot of sense as it condenses Tudor’s key strengths in a compact, affordable package. The latest version of the model is equipped with the brand’s state-of-the-art features, including an in-house movement and the “T-fit” micro-adjustment clasp, but is priced at just US$2,725 on strap. In fact, the Ranger almost seems like Tudor intentionally making a point that it delivers arguably the best quality-to-price ratio in Swiss watchmaking. It is difficult, maybe impossible, to find another watch with the same tangible qualities for the same price. Aside from its technical features, the new Ranger is an intrinsically appealing watch, largely because it has better proportions and details than earlier version. Now 39 mm wide instead of 41 mm, the case is more appropriately given the design and historical inspiration. The diame...
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