Hodinkee
HODINKEE Radio: Episode 59: Typographer Jonathan Hoefler, James Bond, And A Fistful Of Diamonds
You'll never look at a watch dial the same way again.
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Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: The Chopard Alpine Eagle, a new contender in luxury steel sports
The Chopard Alpine Eagle is a watch that has roots in the 1980s when their St. Moritz model was released. It was during a period when the stainless steel luxury sports watch boom was in full swing. Case in point, between 1980 and 1995, the St. Moritz model alone sold 50,000 pieces. Now, the St. … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Chopard Alpine Eagle, a new contender in luxury steel sports appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Looking back at the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph
Editor’s note: Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak is unquestionably one of the most important wristwatches of all time and it is steeped in history for so many reasons. For a start, the unique aesthetics of the now iconic watch and integrated bracelet were designed by the doyen of horological design, Gérald Genta, in less than 24 hours. … ContinuedThe post Looking back at the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Sotheby’s Removes A. Lange & Söhne No. 41000 ‘Jahrhunderttourbillon’ From November 2019 Masterworks Of Time Auction – And You Won’t Believe Why
Sotheby’s justifiably described the tourbillon pocket watch No. 41000 as the most important watch made by A. Lange & Söhne. Nicknamed the Jahrhunderttourbillon ("tourbillon of the century") and introduced in 1900, it was until recently part of Sotheby’s bombastic Masterworks of Time auction. However, Sotheby's has removed the Jahrhunderttourbillon from the upcoming November auction and here Elizabeth Doerr reveals why.
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: The Hublot Big Bang Unico SORAI
Hublot has teamed up with the initiative Save Our Rhino Africa/India (SORAI) to create the fetching, limited edition Hublot Big Bang Unico SORAI. Stylised to mimic the tonal colours of Africa’s vast bush land, the new Big Bang Unico SORAI’s 45mm case is finished in microblasted beige ceramic, as is the watch’s bezel. Providing a … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Hublot Big Bang Unico SORAI appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
The new Tutima Flieger Automatic in green
While the brand has moved into the realms of haute horologerie with minute repeaters, in-house chronograph movements, top-grade finishing, it also retains an accessible collection. The Flieger Automatic is one such watch.
Quill & Pad
Our Predictions In The Iconic Category Of The 2019 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG): Creating Future Icons Or Rewarding Existing Ones?
The GPHG Iconic category is for watches entered as “men’s or ladies watches from an emblematic collection that has exercised a lasting influence on watchmaking history and the watch market for more than 25 years.” Our panel is split, but has a clear favorite. Is it also yours?
SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Introduces the Aquanaut Singapore 2019 Ref. 5167A-012 (With Pricing)
Since its introduction in 2007, the popularity of the Aquanaut 5167A has followed on the coattails of the Nautilus Ref 5711/1A. And now for the occasion of the Watch Art Grand Exhibition in Singapore, Patek Philippe has unveiled a special-edition Aquanaut ref. 5167A-012 with red accents and a red strap. The dial features the Aquanaut’s traditional chequerboard motif, but with red minute markers and a red central hand. The addition of colour is a nod to Singapore’s flag, which is red and white. Though the cosmetic changes are minimal, the overall effect of which is nonetheless striking and appealing. Depth rated to 120m, the case remains 40mm in diameter and is paired with a red composite strap. It houses the cal. 324 S C, which is visible through a sapphire case back that has been printed with the inscription “Patek Philippe Singapore 2019”. The cal. 324 S C is the brand’s central-rotor automatic movement that is fairly ordinary but attractively finished. It offers a short 35- to 45-hour power reserve, and as with all of Patek Philippe’s current movements, it is fitted with a Gyromax balance wheel, which is essentially a free-sprung, adjustable mass balance, as well as a silicon Spiromax hairspring. Key facts Diameter: 40mm Height: 8.1mm Material: Stainless steel Water-resistance: 120m Movement: cal. 324 S C Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds; date Winding: Self-winding Frequency: 28,800bph, or 4Hz Power reserve: 35 to 45 hours Strap: Red composite Pr...
Time+Tide
Size is the prize: 3 seriously big watches
While there are many watch enthusiasts out there who consider timepieces with a case size of between 36mm and 40mm to be sitting in the “Goldilocks” zone, there are watches in existence that most certainly do not conform to this notion. These timepieces are made for enthusiasts who want something that has genuine presence on … ContinuedThe post Size is the prize: 3 seriously big watches appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Introduces the Minute Repeater Tourbillon Singapore 2019 Ref. 5303R (With Price)
Of the special edition watches created for the Watch Art Grand Exhibition Singapore 2019, one is entirely new, and it also happens to be the most complicated – the Minute Repeater Tourbillon Singapore 2019 Ref. 5303R-010. The model reference reveals the key design feature of the watch, like the preceding ref. 5304R, the new watch has no dial, so the mechanics below are revealed in all their glory. This creates a first for a Patek Philippe wristwatch – it shows the tourbillon regulator at six o’clock, something that has historically been hidden on the back of all wristwatch tourbillons. Protecting the tourbillon The rationale for hiding the tourbillon from view was to prevent exposure to UV light, which can ostensibly break down the lubricants that keep the tourbillon in optimum running condition. Consequently, the sapphire disc over the tourbillon regulator has a UV protection coating to prevent the lubricants from being exposed to sunlight. A reworked movement The new ref. 5303R is powered by the R TO 27 PS movement, which combines a minute repeater and tourbillon. Though it’s based on the longstanding cal. R 27, the movement was significantly reengineered to show off the striking mechanism under the dial. Amongst the changes are a larger base plate, as well as a rearrangement of the hammers and gongs, which required 20 new components to be added. Interestingly, the hammers have been slightly ground down around the edges that point towards the hands, so as ...
Revolution
Unveiled in Singapore: Patek Philippe Ref. 5303R Grand Complication in Rose Gold
Patek Philippe launched the new Ref. 5303R Grand Complication in Rose Gold at the Patek Philippe Watch Art Grand Exhibition in Singapore.
Hodinkee
Introducing: The Patek Philippe Aquanaut Ref. 5167A For The Singapore Grand Exhibition
The steel sport watch gets a new red treatment.
Quill & Pad
Grand Seiko Spring Drive Chronograph GMT SBGC203: You Can Have It All
The Grand Seiko Spring Drive Chronograph GMT SBGC203 has a bold appearance due to both its generous diameter of 43.5 mm and even more so by the large chronograph pushers and crown. Despite being such a substantial watch, Martin Green was surprised how well it sat and wore on his modestly sized wrist. Here he summarizes a week wearing this versatile all-rounder.
Hodinkee
Recommended Reading: 'Abstract Season 2' Includes An Awesome Episode About Watches And Typeface Design
The Netflix series is back – and with something special for watch lovers.
Revolution
On Her Wrist: Audemars Piguet Millenary Frosted Gold Philosophique
Audemars Piguet welcomes a new ladies watch that tells time differently. Here’s how the Millenary Frosted Gold Philosophique looks and feels on the wrist.
SJX Watches
First Look: Patek Philippe Grand Exhibition Singapore 2019 Limited Editions (With Prices)
The Patek Philippe Watch Art Grand Exhibition Singapore 2019 opened today for a sneak preview of the monumental showcase of watchmaking and horology. It includes everything from watchmaker demonstrations to a look into the art of enamelling, explained by no other than master artisan Anita Porchet herself; more on those in upcoming stories (or you can also buy the hardbound catalogue with proceeds going to charity). For now, here’s a peek at the highly anticipated limited edition watches produced for the event. The outline of the Singapore 2019 collection is simple: four relatively accessible watches, two grand complications, and a variety of unique Rare Handcrafts clocks, pocket- and wristwatches. All of the limited edition watches bear “Patek Philippe Singapore 2019” on the case back, printed if the back is sapphire, and engraved if the back is solid. The first is the Aquanaut Singapore 2019 ref. 5167A-012 in steel, a variation of the standard model. It has a dial with the minute track and seconds hand in red, matched with a red strap. This is limited to 500 pieces, and priced at 22,400 Swiss francs, or 33,500 Singapore dollars. (Full details on the Aquanaut here.) It’s accompanied by the Aquanaut Luce Singapore 2019 ref. 5067A-027 in steel for ladies that has a red dial and strap, also a variation of the standard model. Only 300 will be made, with a retail of 19,900 Swiss francs, or 29,800 Singapore dollars. Also for ladies is the Calatrava Pilot Travel Ti...
WatchAdvice
Omega Seamaster Diver 300M Review
We recently had the opportunity to spend a weekend with the white dial Omega Seamaster Diver 300M, thanks to Omega Australia. Although this model was released in March this year at Time To Move 2019, the watch isn’t available for purchase just yet – so this was the first time I’ve had the chance to see it in the metal. The white dial variant of the Seamaster Diver 300M was an addition to the existing collection, and somewhat of a sleeper when launched, so I’ve been hanging to get some hands-on time with the timepiece. First impressions The white Seamaster Diver 300M is a handsome watch. The design is modern and forward-looking, at a time when a lot of dive watches are still looking to their past for inspiration. The build quality is impressive, and the price is right. If you’re a fan of dive watches, I highly recommend you check out the highly versatile Omega Seamaster Diver 300M collection, which is a compelling proposition in the $5,000 – $10,000 dive watch category. The case The stainless steel case comes in at 42mm, and 20mm between the lugs. On wrist, the case is comfortable, and hugs nicely. The Seamaster Diver 300M wears slightly smaller than your typical 42mm watch, which is due to the shorter lugs that balance out the larger case. Housed inside is the Omega Master Chronometer Calibre 8800, a self-winding movement, with METAS approval. Boasting a capable 55-hour power reserve, the Calibre 8800 is visible through a sapphire crystal display caseback. The ...
SJX Watches
Seven Watches to See at Patek Philippe’s Grand Exhibition Singapore
Starting this weekend, the theatre inside Singapore’s Marina Bay Sands resort will become home to the epic, 16-day Patek Philippe Watch Art Grand Exhibition, the biggest and longest such event ever staged by the brand. Open from 28 September to 13 October, the enormous showcase of horological artefacts and prowess will take visitors through the company’s history while delving into its many innovations and milestones. Divided into 10 themed rooms, the exhibition will present a comprehensive array of timepieces spanning centuries, including the first ever perpetual calendar wristwatch, as well as legendary grand complications like the record-setting Calibre 89. Some 400 timepiece will be on display – all detailed in a hardbound catalogue that will be sold to benefit charity – and here are seven highlights of the show that are worth a second look. The first perpetual calendar wristwatch Although the distinction of inventing the first perpetual calendar watch goes to English watchmaker Thomas Mudge, who created it in 1762 – and the Patek Philippe Museum owns one such Mudge creation – it was Patek Philippe that built the first ever perpetual calendar in a wristwatch, back in 1925. It was a one-off creation powered by a movement dating to 1898. Initially developed for a women’s pendant watch, the compact calibre only found a home 27 years later inside the landmark wristwatch. Crucially, it was also an instantaneous perpetual calendar, with calendar i...
Time+Tide
RECOMMENDED READING: Instagram’s influence on movement finishing
SJX Watches recently published a fascinating story by Brandon Moore that takes a look at the impact that Instagram and other social media platforms have had on the scrutiny and importance of watch movement finishing. Moore talks to former Patek Philippe watchmaker and founder of Akrivia watches, Rexhep Rexhepi, about the influence of the social … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: Instagram’s influence on movement finishing appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: The Omega Seamaster 50th Anniversary of On Her Majesty’s Secret Service
OK, we’ll skip the whole “shaken, not stirred” routine and skip to the salient facts. Omega has just released its latest Bond-themed timepiece, the Omega Seamaster 50th Anniversary of On Her Majesty’s Secret Service – and it’s pretty awesome. Limited to just 7007 pieces (see what they did there?), the Bond watch pays homage to, … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Omega Seamaster 50th Anniversary of On Her Majesty’s Secret Service appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Introducing: The Bulgari Octo Roma Grande Sonnerie Perpetual Calendar Diamonds (Live Pics & Pricing)
Bulgari's most over-the-top watch gets even more impressive.
SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Announces Singapore Grand Exhibition Catalogue
As Patek Phillippe’s 16-day Watch Art Grand Exhibition in Singapore counts own to its opening this weekend, the watchmaker has revealed a limited edition, hardbound catalogue detailing the exhibition that will be available only at the event. A must-have for any horological library, the commemorative book includes every timepiece that will be on display at the exhibition, which is the largest to date. The tome encompasses a diversity of clocks, pocket and wristwatches spanning four centuries, from the world’s first wristwatch made for Countess Koscowicz of Hungary to some of the most complicated watches ever created – including the landmark Caliber 89 – as well as watches currently in production. The catalogue will also include the limited edition watches, clocks and pocket watches produced especially for the Singapore Grand Exhibition. The Calibre 89 Proceeds from the sale of the catalogue will benefit the National Museum of Singapore, the nation’s oldest museum. Funds raised will go towards boosting the museum’s programmes that preserve the arts and cultural heritage of the city state. Patek Philippe is no stranger to supporting the National Museum, as the catalogue donations follow its support of the redevelopment of the museum in 2015, the year of Singapore’s 50th anniversary since independence, with the creation of a unique Dome Clock that was sold at auction to fund renovation of the museum’s trademark glass rotunda. The Farquhar Coll...
Time+Tide
VIDEO: The watches of the GPHG are heading to Sydney, and we’d strongly recommend you check them out
We’re heading into awards season for the watch industry, and they don’t come much more glamorous or glitzy than the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG), which is set to take place in - you guessed it - Geneva on November 7. There are 84 watches vying to be named best in show, and the … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The watches of the GPHG are heading to Sydney, and we’d strongly recommend you check them out appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
In-Depth: Diving With The Rolex Oyster Perpetual Sea-Dweller Steel And Gold
A (Lake) Superior dive watch.
Time+Tide
3 seriously underrated watches released in 2019
A great watch should always get the recognition it deserves; however, sometimes that just simply isn’t the case. Whether it’s down to hyped timepieces being unveiled at the same time, the watchmaker in question not being particularly revered, or how the timepiece in question derives its source of power … there are myriad reasons why … ContinuedThe post 3 seriously underrated watches released in 2019 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
The Mysterious Rolex Daytona Zenith “Luna Rossa” at Sotheby’s
The most talked-about watch at Sotheby’s upcoming Important Watches auction in Hong Kong is lot 2300, a Rolex Cosmograph Daytona powered by a Zenith El Primero movement that’s described as “a possibly unique… chronograph wristwatch with a red dial”. And as with all high-profile watches, the auctioneers have given the watch an Italian nickname, “Luna Rossa”, which translates as “red moon”. The reason the “Luna Rossa” is controversial is because such a red dial has never ever been seen before. Usually unicorns are known and whispered about, even if seldom seen, but the “Luna Rossa” has surprised everyone. Experts and insiders I approached have neither encountered nor heard of such a dial, which makes it quite a revelation. But they all agree it is correct – in the sense that all elements are identical to known Rolex dials of the period – though of unknown origin. Sotheby’s itself hasn’t provided much background about the watch, either officially or unofficially. Unlike the unique platinum Daytona “Zenith” that Sotheby’s sold last year, setting a record price for a modern Daytona, which had a backstory that was I managed to uncover, the “Luna Rossa” remains a mystery. The dial is glossy red lacquer, with gold indices and sub-dials When such unusual dials emerge, the immediate question is one of authenticity. The “Luna Rossa” passes the test – the dial is correct in its details. The element usually regarded as crucia...
SJX Watches
Hands-On: A. Lange & Söhne Little Lange 1 “25th Anniversary”
A. Lange & Söhne is marking the 25th year since it first unveiled its modern line-up of wristwatches – led by the iconic Lange 1 – in 1994 with a 10-piece set of special Lange 1 models. The Little Lange 1 “25th Anniversary” is the third watch of the set, which has been progressively unveiled each month, with the last (presumably a Lange 1 Tourbillon) slated to be announced in October. The Little Lange 1 was first conceived in 1998 as a scaled down version of the Lange 1, with the case shrunk to 36mm. But it was originally a men’s watch, catered to markers like Japan and Singapore that wanted a smaller size. So the earlier versions had plain dials, essentially the same dials as found on the full-size Lange 1, but the Little Lange 1 has since evolved into a watch for ladies, so the current versions are only offered with ornate guilloche dials in purple or brown, with the option of a diamond-set bezel. But the Little Lange 1 “25th Anniversary” returns to the original concept of the model, with all frills removed and once again suitable for men. The standard Little Lange 1 with a brown guilloche dial Modern blue The “25th Anniversary” model of the Little Lange 1 pays tribute to the original design with a standard silver dial. In fact, the dial is identical to first generation Little Lange 1 dials, with the exception of the colours and printed indices; the originals had applied markers. As a recurring theme found in the other commemorative pi...
Time+Tide
4 stealth watches to help you fly under the radar
The very utterance of the words “must have” when talking about the ideal watch collection will almost always lead to, at the very least, enthusiastic speculation and, more often than not, heated debate. The Omega Speedmaster, for example, is forever being bandied about as THE watch to have in any discerning collection, and the Rolex … ContinuedThe post 4 stealth watches to help you fly under the radar appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Rediscovering the Rado HyperChrome Ultra Light
Editor’s note: With weather more conducive to anything other than complete hibernation finally starting to creep back into our lives Down Under, it’s got everyone here in the office talking about what watch you should be wearing when the board shorts, bikinis and budgie smugglers come out. Now, we’ve already covered what we think will … ContinuedThe post Rediscovering the Rado HyperChrome Ultra Light appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Sunday Rewind: Talking Watches With Jean-Claude Biver
We sit down with a champion of the Swiss watch industry to learn the stories behind the amazing watches he calls his own.