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Deployant
Recently, we have been tasked with a budget of SGD 20,000 to get a new watch for ourselves. There are so many considerations when it comes to buying a watch and these are the watches that we have shortlisted.
Monochrome
One of my most memorable experiences when tumbling down the mechanical watchmaking rabbit hole is handling my very first tourbillon watch. I had already been writing for MONOCHROME for a while when it happened, and I knew about the complication and its function, but I had never handled one in person. It was at the […]
Quill & Pad
If you’re at all a Lange enthusiast like GaryG, you’ll likely understand the most compelling reason for buying the Odysseus is that it's an A. Lange & Söhne watch you can wear every day.
Fratello
It’s always exciting to discover a new watch brand, even more so when it was founded in your hometown. As we’re practically neighbors, I sat down for lunch with Vincent Bakker, one of the three founders of Calgari, to learn more about this Amsterdam-based brand and its watches. The adventure started by selling off-the-shelf watches, […] Visit Hands-On With The Calgari Dimora Panda And Pierre Morlet - Two Affordable Meca-Quartz Chronographs to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
In case you couldn’t tell, we’re fans of Tudor in these parts. Yeah, yeah, nothing new; everyone likes a Tudor, but man, even in head-to-head combat, it’s hard to find much fault with their watches. Well, I’ll tell you a secret: I do have an issue with them. It’s not a big issue, per se, but it’s not nothing, either. Here’s the deal: when you get one, you choose which strap you want, and that’s it. Want the rubber and the bracelet? You better buy two. Ok, perhaps that’s an exaggeration, but as far as Tudor’s website goes, you can’t order the straps separately. Maybe an AD can, but who’s got time for all that? Now, hear me out; the other thing is that they make very good bracelets. If you, like me, are prone to the occasional Black Bay purchase, you will choose the bracelet over the other options. But those other options, the rubber in particular, are just so damn nice. What’s a collector to do? Well, for Tudor Black Bay 54 owners, there’s a new solution from our friends in Singapore, Delugs. Rubber straps are all well and good, but there’s just something special about one meant for your watch. One fitted to the exact shape of the lugs for that modern, integrated look. Introducing the Delugs Integrated Rubber CTS straps for various watches, including the BB54. Delugs was kind enough to send one over for some sweat-errr– road testing, so here are my thoughts. Despite the setup, I’m actually not a huge rubber strap person. I’m not a huge br...
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Worn & Wound
With a history that dates back to the founding of the Shokosha Watch Research Institute in 1918, Citizen Watch Co. was formally established in 1930 with the goal of creating high-quality yet accessible timepieces for the Japanese market. Headquartered in Nishitokyo, Tokyo, Japan, Citizen is one of the world’s largest and most vertically-integrated watch manufacturers. With a history that dates back to the founding of the Shokosha Watch Research Institute in 1918, Citizen Watch Co. was formally established in 1930 with the goal of creating high-quality yet accessible timepieces for the Japanese market. Headquartered in Nishitokyo, Tokyo, Japan, Citizen is one of the world’s largest and most vertically-integrated watch manufacturers. The post Just A Minute With The Citizen Series8 890 appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Monochrome
The Seiko Presage Style60’s collection is both popular, growing fast and a nice throwback to a bygone decade (yes, the 1960s, obviously). The latest pair of watches, ref. SRPL07 and SRPL09, don’t reinvent the wheel, but add classy touches with a slightly smaller case, a very nice new bracelet and a fixed bezel. Dial colours […]
Deployant
A new addition to the highly technical Arnold & Son Double Tourbillon collection. This time a piece unique in white gold with a unique amber dial.
Fratello
Let me begin with a piece of advice: if you think you actually want to buy this watch, you might be better off just going straight to the Laventure website instead of reading this article. By the time you’ve finished, chances are that the reference of your choice will have already sold out. Now, for […] Visit Introducing: The Laventure Transatlantique II GMT - Now Smaller And Available In Two-Tone to read the full article.
Monochrome
The Frederique Constant Highlife collection launched in 1999 with an interchangeable, integrated strap/bracelet at an affordable price, making the desirable “luxury Swiss sports watch” accessible to many. The collection ultimately went dormant but was relaunched in 2020 to great fanfare with musician, producer and brand ambassador The Avener. In 2022, the brand introduced the Highlife […]
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Quill & Pad
As the saying goes, “There’s an ass for every seat.” John Keil still finds it hard to believe that some watch designs are ever even considered, much less actually produced and ultimately purchased. In fairness, the following list may not actually contain the five ugliest watches ever, but they sure aren’t easy on the eyes.
Worn & Wound
The Divers Sixty-Five has been a staple in the Oris collection since 2015. In the near decade since its inception, we have seen many iterations. Many of these have been community-driven, and there have also been collaborative projects with multiple prominent media outlets and retailers. It would be an understatement to say that Oris has its finger on the pulse of the watch world, and their latest offering proves just that. New for 2024, they are introducing the Divers Sixty-Five 400 in 38mm. The great thing about being an independent watch manufacturer is the freedom to do what they believe is right. For some time, they have been asked to make a Divers Sixty-Five with the Calibre 400 movement, without a date display, in the enthusiast favorite 38mm size, and that’s exactly what this is. It is made of stainless steel and comes with a matching monochromatic unidirectional bezel with a minute scale in relief. Not only does the Calibre 400 offer 120 hours of power reserve, but it also comes with a class-leading 10-year warranty and 10-year service intervals. The watch is only available with the rivet-style stainless steel bracelet and features a vibrant green dial. It has a diameter of 38mm, a thickness of 12.6mm, and a lug width of 19mm. The watch is in-house regulated to be accurate to within -3/+5 seconds per day, which exceeds COSC tolerances. The movement is visible through the screw-down exhibition case back, and it is water-resistant up to 100m. This new model fulfill...
Worn & Wound
There is almost no end to watches inspired by motorsport, but very few watches take that inspiration and do anything truly unique with it. Just yesterday, we brought you news of a new TAG Heuer Carrera that, in my opinion, is something of a by-the-numbers collaboration between an automaker and a luxury watch brand. It has design notes that convey a watch that’s sporty and modern, the “Porsche” wordmark prominently featured on the case itself, and it’s a Carrera, a collection that is naturally imbued with racing history. I’ve written about a lot of watches that say “Porsche” on them in one way or another, but it’s honestly difficult to tell them apart after a while. Singer Reimagined takes an entirely different approach. The brand itself is part of the Singer Group, which rose to prominence with their bespoke restorations of vintage Porsche 911s. What Singer brings to the table is a very unique and highly specialized perspective. You might love it or hate it, but they don’t suffer from the same problems that inevitably plague large luxury watch brands, namely casting an impossibly wide net, resulting in products that, even when ostensibly “niche,” have a certain generic quality to them. Being intrinsically connected to the car world, it’s no surprise that Singer only makes chronographs. Expanding on the very idea of the chronograph in an adventurous way is part of what makes Singer Reimagined exciting. Their chronographs use unconventional movement...
Monochrome
Cuervo y Sobrinos is the only major watch brand with solid Cuban roots, celebrating specific time periods and locations in Cuban history. For example, the previous Robusto Churchill Limited Edition honoured Winston Churchill’s fondness for Havana tobacco. The new Robusto Sans Souci looks back at 1950s Cuba, specifically the Sans Souci night venue just outside […]
Fratello
Every field has its lingo, and the watch world is no exception. As Fratello writers, we try to be aware of our use of language and the implications that come from our specific choice of words. Regardless, sometimes we are taken aback when certain terms unintentionally trigger strong reactions in readers. Recently, we noticed that […] Visit Is It Time To Revise The “Holy Trinity” Of Watchmaking? to read the full article.
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Two Broke Watch Snobs
Check out our hands-on video review of the Forstner-A12, an affordable watch that pays homage to the Bulova Accutron Astronaut.
Fratello
Hello there, and welcome to another episode of Fratello Talks. This week, Thomas, Lex, and Nacho discuss Seiko watches. A Seiko is a staple of most watch enthusiasts’ collections, whether it’s a first-ever mechanical watch or an inexpensive curiosity, a vintage rarity in museum-worthy condition, or anything in between. And though there will certainly be […] Visit Fratello Talks: Why Everyone Loves Seiko Watches to read the full article.
Teddy Baldassarre
Longines has just revamped its Conquest line of watches – the modern Conquest line – by injecting into it a new sense of color, and a not-so-novel, but nonetheless appreciated, approach to sizing. When it comes to color, the brand unveiled three pastel dial shades in its 34mm variants within the Conquest lineup. But other big news is the addition of a 38mm sizing where previously you were left only to be able to choose 41mm at the “large” end of the spectrum. While the eye-catching pastel dials in blue, pink, and light green certainly took much of the release spotlight around the new Conquests, they only come in 34mm sizing and I can’t help but think that the less flashy dials in the new 38mm format is the real show-stealer here. We say this all the time, but it’s becoming increasingly clear that 38mm is that sweet spot for watch diameters. More and more brands are dabbling in the 37-38mm range as well. I wrote about the Zenith Defy Revival A3648 (in my debut article here at Teddy no less) which clocks in at 37mm. Then we have the Tudor Black Bay 54, and of course the fan-favorite Hamilton Khaki Field Murph 38 just to name a few. In short, 38mm is where it’s at, as is the simple time and date watch format in steel on a bracelet. Just look at how popular the Rolex Oyster Perpetual line is as a bare bones steel sports watch. Okay, that watch has no date, but it does bear a visual resemblance to these new Conquest models. I could just as easily throw the Dat...
Monochrome
On its own, a Laurent Ferrier Classic Micro-Rotor is already a true thing of beauty. The ultra-smooth, almost pebble-like case, the refined architecture of the dial and of course that superbly finished micro-rotor movement with natural escapement. There’s genuinely nothing we would change. However, Laurent Ferrier’s latest iteration of the Classic Micro-Rotor shows it can […]
Worn & Wound
Officine Panerai was the brand that launched the “large watch” craze that began in the early 1990s, long before Sylvester Stallone got involved and before anyone else started making oversized watches. Prior to them, 38mm was considered jumbo, and then suddenly, 44mm was the new normal and everyone else was playing catch-up. Since then, watch sizes have come down. However, Panerai is still doing their thing, and they may have outdone themselves with their latest offering, the Submersible Elux LAB-ID, the world’s first fully mechanical watch with electrical luminescence. Yes, you read that correctly and no, there are no batteries. This is not your father’s push-button background illumination. This technology took 8 years to develop, and several patents are pending. The watch houses 6 barrels, 4 of which power the lighting system through microgenerators that convert mechanical energy into electricity, and 2 that are dedicated to time indication. The P.9010/EL caliber is 31mm in diameter and 10.80mm thick, has 55 jewels and a power-reserve of 3 days (roughly 72hrs), plus 30 minutes of on demand lighting. Not to be bested by the inner workings, the 49mm case is made of Panerai’s proprietary Ti-Ceramitech, crafted from ceramized titanium. It took 7 years of research and development and they have filed a patent for their titanium ceramization process through Plasma Electrolytic Oxidation to achieve a very distinctive blue hue. This process transforms the titanium alloy ...
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Worn & Wound
So far 2024 is a year where brands have been belting out bombastic bangers of watches one after another. So, when a different take on a beloved complication is dropped, we naturally crane our necks to peek at what’s new. The first Swiss chronograph in New Zealand based Beaufort’s lineup highlights the old school idea of a doctor/medic’s watch with a pulsometer as the primary complication. It takes this complication and sets it inside a case and dial that are elegant, yet industrial, but some of the changes made to the chronograph functionality caused me to ask some questions. The Beaufort Pulsatimer, upon quick inspection, might look like your average chrono, but the longer you linger over its construction, the more you’ll start to notice its unique styling. The case is almost totally brushed, with the exception of thinly polished chamfered edges and a polished inner bezel ring. The polished ring steps up from a brushed base bezel ring like the watch is laying its own foundation. And rising once more from the step bezel is a significantly raised box sapphire crystal. All this architecture pulls your eye into a dial that dramatically drops from the crystal with the sloped pulsometer chapter ring. Then we find a beautiful, vertically brushed copper-colored dial that Beaufort calls “Salmon.” They also have an all black, DLC coated version, a reverse panda black and silver dial, and an all silver dial version of the Pulsatimer. The architectural nuances of the ca...
Monochrome
Recently, we co-organized a watch event with ten independent watch brands, welcoming close to 200 guests and spoiling everyone with Michelin-star food and bites, bubbles (and beer), and great coffees prepared by a barista. During the two-day event, appropriately named Taste of Time, the presentations given by the participating brands garnered as much attention as […]
Fratello
It has not escaped your attention that the retail price for a new Omega Speedmaster Professional has recently increased. Omega drastically changed many things, not only under the hood (caliber 3861) but also with different exterior parts than before. A new case, dial, hands, and bracelet were been designed for the Moonwatch, making it aesthetically […] Visit Five Speedy Alternatives To The Current Omega Speedmaster Professional to read the full article.
Deployant
De Bethune releases 2 new iterations of the DB Eight chronograph: in white gold case and royal blue dial, and in a yellow case with a chocolate dial.
Worn & Wound
One of the things we love about independent watchmaking is the ability for a brand to move swiftly on a project based on feedback from their clients, collaborators, and the watch world writ large. A new release from Collective and Armin Strom is a great example of how one good idea can quickly beget another, and in the grand scheme of things it really doesn’t even take that long. Not even two years ago, Collective and Armin Strom released the P.03 Gravity Equal Force, a creative take on one of Armin Strom’s signature designs. The concept behind the original release was to make this bit of high end watchmaking into something truly tactical, and its aesthetic was inspired by apparel, packs, and EDC tools in its finishing, color, and overall vibe. This new release, the P.03 “Night Ops,” takes that idea a step further, and does what arguably should have been done the first time around: blacking out the case. It seems obvious, right? When you think “tactical” in watchmaking, you probably think “black,” at least to some extent. I have to say, though, that until I heard Collective and Armin Strom were making this new edition, the thought never actually crossed my mind that the original should have been black. I think that speaks to the genuine novelty of that first watch. It’s so rare for a haute horlogerie brand like Armin Strom to dabble in EDC inspiration that the first try really sold me. The new Night Ops variant feels like a more fully realized version o...
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