Hodinkee
Hands-On: The Krayon Anywhere Universal Sunrise-Sunset Complication
One of the most sophisticated sunrise-sunset watches is drop-dead elegant as well.
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Hodinkee
Time+Tide
FRIDAY WIND DOWN: The five most inflated Rolex references may surprise you, and plenty more
If you read Time+Tide regularly, you’ll know that stainless steel Rolex watches are almost exclusively more expensive on the secondary market than they are at retail. This isn’t a new phenomenon, though it does seem to have taken on a new life with the advent of the “waiting list”, an ethereal allocation system that Rolex … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: The five most inflated Rolex references may surprise you, and plenty more appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
WatchAdvice
Rado Captain Cook Green Dial Review
Rado’s Captain Cook collection is by far one of the brands most iconic lines, a watch, as they say, designed to stand the test of time. Back when Rado released the first Captain Cook model, the Swiss Brand wasn’t known or associated with dive watches. Many of the watch brands back in the day attempted to delve into the different categories of watchmaking to expand their horizons, and Rado was no different. Typically being a dress watchmaker, Rado designed and released their first dive watch, the Captain Cook timepiece, in 1962. Captain Cook Green dial reference R32105313 The name Captain Cook was of course given to honour the explorer Captain Cook. The original 1962 Captain Cook was a serious dive watch, with a case built to survive approximately 220m of watch depth. Back in 2017, Rado re-released the 1962 Captain Cook model with a 1:1 recreation of the original, all with updated movement and materials. The design of the 2017 watch was kept the same as the original, as they retained the 37mm case sizing, red numeral on date wheel, shape of hour indices and hands, down to the spinning anchor at 12’clock position. The watch community loved this re-edition of what is a classic dive watch upon its release. With the watch becoming popular, Rado decided to make multiple iterations of the Captain Cook, with many different versions with different coloured dials being released. Earlier this year, Rado released a new variation of the Captain Cook, with the new timepiece now ...
Time+Tide
EDITOR’S PICK: Great value complications – the Clifton Baumatic Day-Date Moon-Phase
Editor’s note: With watch collecting skewing towards sports models, there is definitely room for more classic and complicated watches in our collections. Now I know what you’re thinking: more complicated means more cost. This, however, is not necessarily the case. In fact, we recently covered a watch that fits the bill. When Watches & Wonders … ContinuedThe post EDITOR’S PICK: Great value complications – the Clifton Baumatic Day-Date Moon-Phase appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Boston goes 50% bigger than Vegas with largest Rolex showroom in America to open next month
WatchPro published an article today announcing the largest Rolex showroom in America is set to open in Boston in December. Originally meant to open earlier but delayed due to the COVID-19 crisis, the 4600 square foot showroom will be located within Long’s Jewelers – beating out current record holder Watches of Switzerland and their 3000 … ContinuedThe post Boston goes 50% bigger than Vegas with largest Rolex showroom in America to open next month appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
VIDEO: The TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph collection, a sharp new formula for a classic
In a year that sees TAG Heuer peaking with vintage inspiration, the new TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph collection comes sliding into our feeds as a fresh take on a classic. There is strong inspiration from its ’60s heyday, while a contemporary 42mm case, and a sparkling new engine inside in the Heuer-02 movement, inspires a … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph collection, a sharp new formula for a classic appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Hunting for the Grail Watch: The Lange 1
We all have a grail watch, or watches. Some people define the grail watch as something they will not be able to obtain in their lifetime. Some define it as something just along the border between difficult and impossible, be it financial or availability. Sometimes it’s oddly specific, down to the detail of the typeRead More
Time+Tide
Did this couple really just use a six-year-old to steal an Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore?
Look, we get it. Waitlists are frustrating, and watches are commanding higher values and premiums than ever before. But this has to be a new low. A Romanian couple has been caught red-handed, or rose-gold handed, attempting to steal a Royal Oak Offshore in rose gold from Audemars Piguet worth £67,000 GBP from venerated department … ContinuedThe post Did this couple really just use a six-year-old to steal an Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Our Predictions In The Jewellery Category Of The 2020 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG): Our Panelists Are Split For A Winner (Again)
The GPHG foundation’s rules for the Jewellery category state that the watches must demonstrate exceptional mastery of the art of jewelry and gem setting. This is an especially difficult category to judge from still photos as you really need to touch and manipulate the jewelry and see the gems reflecting from different angles. Our panelists settle on two favorites as top contenders despite the fact that they haven't had a chance to handle these treasures.
SJX Watches
Zenith Introduces the Defy Classic Carbon
A line of sports watches that’s modern in style and mechanics, the Defy was previously available only in mostly traditional materials, namely titanium, ceramic, or gold. But the base model now gets an upgrade with the Defy Classic Carbon that has a carbon-composite case, and more interestingly, a bracelet entirely in carbon composite. Initial thoughts Carbon composites are desirable in engineering for their lightness and strength, which is why they are used in aircraft bodies and Formula 1 cars. In watchmaking the material is useful for its lightness, but even more useful for its distinctive look. It is widely used for watch case, and sometimes in movements, so it’s no longer as novel as it was. This isn’t the first carbon-composite case for Zenith; the El Primero Lightweight of 2013 claims that title, while the El Primero Defy 21 is currently in the catalogue. So the Defy Classic Carbon isn’t groundbreaking, but it does look good. The liberal use of carbon composite suits the design well, with the techno-organic random pattern of the composite going well the open-worked dial, resulting in a sporty, fresh look that’s the best amongst all of the base-model Defy watches. The version equipped with a carbon fibre bracelet looks best naturally, because of the coherent, unbroken aesthetics and also rarity – while carbon-composite case are common, an integrated bracelet in the material is rare. Weighing just 65 g with the bracelet – about half the weight of a si...
Time+Tide
Retail versus secondhand: which 5 Rolex models have the most inflated prices on the seconds market?
We track down the five most price-inflated Rolexes.The post Retail versus secondhand: which 5 Rolex models have the most inflated prices on the seconds market? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
Revolution Awards 2020
On our last issue of every year, it has become tradition for us to celebrate by sorting through the wide array of watches launched over the course of the year and bestowing awards among the best of the best.
Time+Tide
Bausele is the official watch provider of the Royal Australian Air Force Centenary with two historically inspired designs
There aren’t many watch brands that can proudly claim to be Australian, but Bausele is one of the select few. Founded by Christophe Hoppe in 2011, Bausele have just announced their partnership with the RAAF to produce two watches that will celebrate the Royal Australian Air Force Centenary in 2021. It is exciting news that … ContinuedThe post Bausele is the official watch provider of the Royal Australian Air Force Centenary with two historically inspired designs appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
De Bethune Introduces the DB28GS Yellow Submarine
De Bethune builds watches that are deliciously futuristic in form and construction, though it has rarely applied its house style to sports watches. Last year’s DB28GS Grand Blue is a bona fide sports watch, with plenty of water resistance and dynamo-powered illumination. Now it’s been given a new look with the DB28GS Yellow Submarine, which has a richly-gilded case that is actually titanium heat treated to create a bronze-gold oxide layer on its surface. Initial thoughts Measuring 44 mm wide and 12.8 mm high, the DB28GS is even chunkier than most De Bethune watches, which are already quite large. The original DB28GS Grand Blue is mostly a monotonous grey, with some blue accents, giving it a technical, rugged style. Even though it is just a change in colour, the yellow case of the Yellow Submarine gives it an entirely new look. The gold finish is luxe but more bronze in tone, and also combined with a brushed surface finish, giving the watch a warm, slightly aged look. And the new case colour gives the watch more contrast – it definitely pops – making it more visually attractive than its predecessor. The original DB28GS was a pricey watch, and so is the new Yellow Submarine. But fortunately it costs almost the same at 95,000 Swiss francs, or about 4% more than its predecessor. Yellow titanium De Bethune’s inventiveness is most prolific in its movements, but also extends to cases. Its signature case material is heat-blued titanium – where the alloy is heated ove...
Quill & Pad
Our Predictions In The Divers Category Of The 2020 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG): We Have An Unexpected Favorite
The GPHG Diver's category contains watches linked to the field of diving, whose functions, materials, and design are suited to this activity. Diver's watches are fairly straightforward and the most successful ones tend look very much alike. However most of our panelists selected a winner from the outfield that looked very different to the norm.
Time+Tide
The two TAG Heuer Carrera 160 Years – the perfect two-watch-one-brand collection of 2020?
For me, the TAG Heuer Carrera 160 Years Silver Limited Edition (available for purchase here) could quite possibly be my favourite from the maison in the last 20 years, and I am not exaggerating. This is a pure Carrera chronograph, a sharp, clear and distilled version of its forefather, the silver monochrome Carrera 2447SD. It … ContinuedThe post The two TAG Heuer Carrera 160 Years – the perfect two-watch-one-brand collection of 2020? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
IN-DEPTH: An independent watchmaker explains why the new Grand Seiko 9SA5 caliber is so remarkable
Editor’s note: Grand Seiko turned heads at the start of 2020 with the announcement of a brand new in-house movement – the Grand Seiko 9SA5 caliber. It was first launched in the Grand Seiko SLGH002 60th Anniversary Limited Edition, a quintessential yellow gold dress watch from the Japanese watchmaking firm, and it left jaws on … ContinuedThe post IN-DEPTH: An independent watchmaker explains why the new Grand Seiko 9SA5 caliber is so remarkable appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Getting some Eichi, or Wisdom, from macro monster @horomariobro
Within the watch community, you will hear the phrase “in the metal” a fair bit. With some watches it is as simple as paying a quick visit to an authorised dealer to become more acclimated with a watch. However, not all watches are available to view in-store – and no, this is not a conversation … ContinuedThe post Getting some Eichi, or Wisdom, from macro monster @horomariobro appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Hands-on review: The Rolex Submariner Ref. 124060 new for 2020
The new Rolex Submariner is an improvement of the 2019 edition, with a larger case size and an upgraded movement. Lesser mentioned improvements include an anti-reflective crystal. The difference between the models are less discernible but becomes apparent when the 2 watches are side-by-side.
Time+Tide
You voted on your favourite Fantasy Watch Collection 10K and the winner is…
The people have spoken, and it is clear that within the Fantasy Watch Collection 10K I was the people’s champion. I take great pride in my victory, listening to Queen’s “We Are the Champions” as I type this story. But I recognise I could not have won without your support, and thank you, the readers, … ContinuedThe post You voted on your favourite Fantasy Watch Collection 10K and the winner is… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Rolex Submariner Deconstruction Video: Warning, Don’t Try This At Home – Reprise
Ever wondered what the inside of a Rolex Submariner looks like, then (sensibly) thought better of trying to find out? Well, wonder no more. The Watches TV has teamed up with The Naked Watchmaker, Peter Speake, to take a modern Rolex Submariner completely apart – diving right into the heart of this famous diver’s watch.
Time+Tide
Trump versus Biden: Forget politics, whose watch collection do you prefer?
We will have to wait to see who wins the election next week in the race for the presidency of the United States. In the meantime, we thought it would be a good time to check in and see what watches President Trump and former Vice President Biden have been wearing as of late. Politics … ContinuedThe post Trump versus Biden: Forget politics, whose watch collection do you prefer? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Ressence Introduces the Type 5X Automobili Amos
Conceived to mark the brand’s 10th anniversary, the “X” series of watches is a quartet of models that started with the Type 1 Slim X, and now continues with the brand-new Type 5X Automobili Amos. Equipped with a bezel to measure turbocharged engine warming and cooling times, the Type 5X is the result of a collaboration between Ressence and Italian race-car driver Eugenio Amos. Husband to a member of the Missoni fashion dynasty, Mr Amos’ namesake company is best known for the Lancia Delta Futurista “restomod”, a race car based on the 1980s Lancia Delta, a car famous for dominating the World Rally Championship in the late 1980s. The concept is similar to what Singer Vehicle Design is doing for the Porsche 911 (specifically the 964 of the early 1990s); Singer, as it happens, has its own line of wristwatches. Initial thoughts The Type 5X is a good-looking variation of the standard Type 5. The tweaks to the typography, colours, and bezel are attractive. But it has a narrow appeal, basically car enthusiasts who appreciate the history of the Lancia Delta and that era of automobile racing. Because it costs not much more than the standard model, the Type 5X is probably a no brainer for anyone who does appreciate that history. But for anyone else it is a bit too esoteric. The Lancia Delta Futurista More broadly, the strengths and weaknesses of the Type 5X are the same as those of the standard model. The watch is ingenious, inventive, and truly unique, while possessing e...
SJX Watches
Auction Watch: Double F.P. Journe Pisa Orologeria Editions at Ineichen
Once a leading auctioneer for high-end pocket watches in the late 20th century, Zurich-based Ineichen is now also specialised in wristwatches. Its upcoming November auction includes an intriguing pair of F.P. Journe watches – a Resonance and tourbillon naturally – both from limited editions made for Pisa Orologeria. Located in Milan, Pisa is one of Italy’s more storied watch retailers. It is a family-run business and prominent enough that a good number of watch brands – ranging from A. Lange & Söhne to Vacheron Constantin – once created limited editions exclusively for Pisa, back when brands used to do such things. Both F.P. Journe watches going on the block at Ineichen were limited editions made for Pisa, and share the same uncommon silver-and-grey livery. The first watch is a Resonance made to mark the 60th anniversary of Pisa in 2000. It has standard 40 mm case and rose gold movement, with an extremely unusual dial. Made of white gold, the dial features dark grey, ruthenium-plated sub-dials with white markings, an unusual combination then and still today. Only five were made, and only one has been sold publicly before – another example sold for 106,250 Swiss francs at Christie’s Geneva in 2015, which was then a record price. The market for F.P. Journe watches has since taken a turbocharged ride upwards, which means the 2015 price will probably be left in the distance at next month’s auction. The next Pisa edition was a follow up to the Resonance. It’...
Quill & Pad
Dior Attends The Grand Ball – And The Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève 2020 – With Three New Models
Parisian haute couture house Dior currently has three watches in the running at the 2020 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève, two of which are based on the magnificent Grand Bal concept. Elizabeth Doerr takes a quick look at them.
Revolution
Phillips to Auction Paul Newman’s Other Daytona & One of Six Monacos from McQueen’s Le Mans Film
Phillips Watches to auction Paul Newman’s other Daytona and one of six Monacos sourced for McQueen’s 1970 film, Le Mans at their 2020 New York sale
WatchAdvice
Oris Aquis Date Calibre 400 Review
Oris has been stepping up the game lately with their recent Calibre 400 movement release, and now a watch to house this incredible movement. The Swiss brand’s current collection is made up of high-performance fit-for-purpose mechanical watches. It was a tough choice however, to see which of their current timepieces would be worthy and fit to house the new groundbreaking Calibre 400 movement. First model that was chosen to implement the new calibre 400 is the Oris Aquis Date. Watch advice recently had an in-depth look at the Calibre 400 movement from Oris and how this is groundbreaking for not only the brand but for the watch industry as a whole. For the price that the Calibre 400 movement is offered for and the amount of value you get back, Oris has redefined what a timepiece should provide for the everyday collector. Oris chose to use a model from the Aquis range for the Calibre 400 movement due to characteristics of the Aquis timepieces. The Aquis around the globe is recognised as being an iconic contemporary divers watch. The timepieces are robust, reliable and come equipped with a variety of functions—the perfect candidate for the Calibre 400, a movement that share the same characteristics. Case: The new Aquis Date Calibre 400 comes in a multi-piece stainless steel 43.5mm case. The case has been designed using sharp lines and chamfered edges, creating an overall refined look. The case has a water resistance of 300m (30 Bar), making it safe for swimming and ...
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: The Seiko Presage SRPF41J and SRPF43J raise the bar with new and limited cocktail flavours
The Seiko Corporation, across its various brands, is known for making competitively valued watches with beautiful dials you cannot find from other brands – even at higher price points. The cocktail watches, as of late, have incorporated some gorgeous dial tones and textures, all of which are eye candy to the wearer and those who … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Seiko Presage SRPF41J and SRPF43J raise the bar with new and limited cocktail flavours appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
VIDEO: The Longines Record Australian Limited Edition is a triple threat of pearl dial, diamonds and on-trend oversized case
Despite being an important pillar of the brand today, the Longines Record Collection is sometimes overlooked by the collector community. In its most refined form, the Record Collection represents the clean classicism that is so beautifully embodied by the brand, and offers a breadth of watches tailored for everyday wear. This year Longines have continued … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The Longines Record Australian Limited Edition is a triple threat of pearl dial, diamonds and on-trend oversized case appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Bulgari Introduces the Aluminium Tricolore
Having revived its Aluminium series earlier in the year – the model was first launched in 1998 as an affordable, lightweight sports watch – Bulgari has just announced the Aluminium Tricolore, a limited edition created in collaboration with the Aeronautica Militare, Italy’s air force. Clad in dark blue rubber, instead of the conventional black, the Aluminium Tricolore was also conceived with the pandemic in mind, as revenue from the sale of the first 50 watches will go to a trio of children’s hospitals in Italy. Initial thoughts A faddish watch in the years after its launch, the original Aluminium was discontinued about a decade after its introduction, which means enough time has past that it’s interesting again. The new Aluminium has pretty much the same appeal as the original – an unusual combination of materials, lightness, and affordability – but also some of the same drawbacks, namely neither aluminium nor rubber are as durable as steel. Both materials tend to show wear more easily than steel does. Still it is a good-looking sports watch for a relatively modest price of US$3,000 or so, and the Tricolore is a bit more appealing in its new livery that’s a bit less stark than the black and silver of the standard model. It is also a good thing that the tricolour logo on the dial is discreet, which preserves the overall two-tone look of the Aluminium. Frecce Tricolori Named after the Frecce Tricolori, the Italian air force’s famed aerobatics team, the wa...