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Big Bang Hublot

Hublot's 2005 "Art of Fusion" chronograph that reshaped 21st-century luxury.

TWO FUTURE G-SHOCK ICONS: THE 40TH ANNIVERSARY FULL CARBON 5000 Worn & Wound
Casio Engineer Kikuo Ibe’s vision Nov 15, 2023

TWO FUTURE G-SHOCK ICONS: THE 40TH ANNIVERSARY FULL CARBON 5000

Anniversaries in the watch world are kind of a big deal. Maybe even too big, according to some, but there’s something to be said about a design and model that has not only stood the test of time but has also come to define its entire genre within the industry. G-Shock and its iconic DW-5000 series watch has done exactly that. It’s incredible considering that 40 years have gone by since Casio Engineer Kikuo Ibe’s vision became a reality. Story has it that Ibe began to conceptualize what a truly shock-resistant watch could be when his own mechanical watch fell and shattered on the ground after a collision with a fellow pedestrian. In the early 1980s, a specialized team at Casio, nicknamed “Team Tough”, began to test and develop prototypes. During this time, Ibe famously found inspiration from a rubber ball on a playground. Eventually engineers incorporated this rubber core idea into the very first G-Shock, model DW-5000C, in 1983. Four decades of innovation and iteration later, Casio is proud to present the culmination of the latest and greatest in technology, material science, and coloration: The 40th Anniversary Full Carbon 5000 Limited Edition. Anniversaries in the watch world are kind of a big deal. Maybe even too big, according to some, but there’s something to be said about a design and model that has not only stood the test of time but has also come to define its entire genre within the industry. G-Shock and its iconic DW-5000 series watch has done exactly...

Sotheby’s sale of two George Daniels x Roger Smith watches had a record-breaking result Time+Tide
Patek Philippe watches But it Nov 8, 2023

Sotheby’s sale of two George Daniels x Roger Smith watches had a record-breaking result

When a big auction house presents their latest catalogue of lots, it is expected that it will be filled with various Rolex and Patek Philippe watches. But, it is not an everyday occurence for two incredibly rare and historically significant watches from the likes of George Daniels and Roger W. Smith to pop up – … ContinuedThe post Sotheby’s sale of two George Daniels x Roger Smith watches had a record-breaking result appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Fall is Here: Saying Bye to Bracelets and Hello to Straps Worn & Wound
Nov 7, 2023

Fall is Here: Saying Bye to Bracelets and Hello to Straps

It may be hard to believe, but we’re already well into November as fall is in full swing. Pool parties are giving way to grateful gatherings, and the shorter days usher in a more demure mood. In the same spirit, big and brash bracelet-clad watches are set aside for more modest pieces – often on straps – befitting of the autumn vibe. The Windup Watch Shop is truly your one-stop-shop for all things straps, from NATOs; to rubber; to leather; to steel. Stepping up your strap game and trying new combinations is a tried and true method to keeping your collection feeling fresh. But if a new watch for the season is what you are after, the Shop also has you covered with several leather-paired watches that fit the fall theme and are ready to slip under that cozy sweater you’ve been looking forward to wearing all year. It may be hard to believe, but we’re already well into November as fall is in full swing. Pool parties are giving way to grateful gatherings, and the shorter days usher in a more demure mood. In the same spirit, big and brash bracelet-clad watches are set aside for more modest pieces – often on straps – befitting of the autumn vibe. The Windup Watch Shop is truly your one-stop-shop for all things straps, from NATOs; to rubber; to leather; to steel. Stepping up your strap game and trying new combinations is a tried and true method to keeping your collection feeling fresh. But if a new watch for the season is what you are after, the Shop also has you covere...

New releases from Omega, Spinnaker, Ming and more Time+Tide
Omega Spinnaker Ming Oct 28, 2023

New releases from Omega, Spinnaker, Ming and more

For this week’s selection, we have a healthy mix of incredible timepieces from the highest echelons of watchmaking, and more cheerful collaborations that give the world of watches a more joyful edge. After years of competition between the big brands for the lightest watch, we have a new player in this race, with independent darling … ContinuedThe post New releases from Omega, Spinnaker, Ming and more appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Ming Surprises with What Could Be the Lightest Watches Ever Made Worn & Wound
Ming Oct 27, 2023

Ming Surprises with What Could Be the Lightest Watches Ever Made

If you spend enough time writing about watches, you’ll eventually be nearly blinded to all of the press releases touting world records of some kind. Sometimes it feels like a month doesn’t go by that a brand isn’t touting a watch that is the thinnest ever, the lightest ever, the most water resistant ever, the most complicated, and various permutations and combinations of all the above. Almost always, these record setters come from big brands, with years of research and untold amounts of historical backing behind them. So it was with considerable interest that we saw a message from Ming earlier this week, advising that they’ve just made the lightest mechanical wristwatches ever. Or, they probably have. A “record” wasn’t exactly claimed, but the watches are really, really light.  The LW.01 emerges from their Special Projects Cave, the skunkworks operation that sees Ming doing their most experimental work. The goal here was to simply make the lightest watch they could using the resources available to them, while keeping it wearable and practical in the manner of other Mings. The process took years, but the result is a (possible) record breaker that, somewhat astoundingly, is still immediately recognizable as a Ming first and foremost.  With ultrathin and ultralight watches, the process always seems to start with case construction, as this is a component of the watch where mass can most easily be engineered away. The LW.01 forgoes traditional case construction ...

Panerai Leans Traditional with the Radiomir Officine PAM01385 SJX Watches
Panerai Leans Traditional Oct 27, 2023

Panerai Leans Traditional with the Radiomir Officine PAM01385

Pared back in style, this vintage-inspired limited edition from Panerai takes a simple approach in revisiting a historical design. With a faux-aged dial colour and conical crown, the Radiomir Officine PAM01385 celebrates the anniversary of the original Radiomir prototype of 1935. Priced well at just over US$5,000, it’s a limited edition with just 300 examples being made.  Initial thoughts  The execution of this is clean and will please those who appreciate historical Panerai design. There is nothing added on that doesn’t need to be there, and there are small details which play to those who know their Panerai history. It’s not an exact remake of a vintage model, but has a functional aesthetic that sticks to the spirit of the originals. As an aside, while I’ve never been a fan of mock ageing, the “tropical” dial is an even colour that doesn’t have a fake gradient to it, and so it can arguably be seen as a simple colour choice, rather than recreating faded pigment.  Another notable detail is the 45 mm case. Oversized by most standards, it’s actually more compact than the average historical Radiomir as well as modern-day remakes, which were usually 47 mm. This makes it more wearable, while still looking big enough to retain the Panerai feel. Given the historical background of this design, and the appealing, no-frills design, the price of US$5,400 is good value, particularly when compared against Panerai models like the Radiomir California. With just 300 piec...

Omega Introduces a New Ceramic Compound to their Collection and Puts a Titanium Movement in the New Planet Ocean Worn & Wound
Omega Introduces Oct 25, 2023

Omega Introduces a New Ceramic Compound to their Collection and Puts a Titanium Movement in the New Planet Ocean

The Lightness Wars continue today with the release of the new Seamaster Planet Ocean Dark Grey, a ceramic dive watch with a GMT complication that isn’t just another ceramic sports watch. The new reference is filled with technological advancements on the materials and watchmaking fronts that Omega claims give it an improved strength to weight ratio compared to prior watches made from similar materials. Omega’s first big innovation here is the use of silicon nitride ceramic for the case, a lighter ceramic compound that is also very robust. Omega claims it is two times lighter than the Zircon ceramic used throughout the rest of their catalog, and according to their spec sheet the watch weighs in at 107 grams. The color of the case is a cool grey, and seems clearly intended to evoke the tactical lightweight feel of titanium. The other (and perhaps more significant) feature of the new Seamaster is that the dial and movement are both made from titanium, which goes a long way to reducing the total weight of the watch. The movement inside is the Master Chronometer Calibre 8906, which of course has been given the full METAS treatment.  All that titanium on the inside and fancy ceramic on the outside will hopefully lead to featherweight wearing experience, because this watch is big by any standard. The case measures 45.5mm in diameter and 17.4mm tall. The lug to lug measurement is 51.5mm, which seems almost reasonable given the hefty diameter. It’s a Planet Ocean, so water re...

Bell & Ross Looks to the Motorcycle World for their Latest, the BR 03-94 Blacktrack Worn & Wound
Bell & Ross Looks Oct 23, 2023

Bell & Ross Looks to the Motorcycle World for their Latest, the BR 03-94 Blacktrack

One of my favorite episodes of Seinfeld is “The Chicken Roaster,” the eighth episode of season 8. You probably remember this one: it involves a Kenny Rogers Roasters restaurant opening across the street from Kramer’s apartment, and eventually he switches apartments with Jerry to get some sleep (because obviously the big neon sign is keeping him up all night) which leads to some of the funniest moments in the history of the show (Jerry’s recollection of a late night phone call with Bob Sacamano will always stay with me). But the B-plot is great, too. It follows George and his saga with a Russian hat, intentionally left behind in the apartment of the woman who sold it to him, who of course he tries to date. This is a trick, he explains, to keep her interested. Like a jingle you can’t get out of your head. And that’s kind of how I feel about Bell & Ross. They have worked their way into my brain like a catchy pop song. They’re a mainstream brand that is capable of doing some truly weird stuff, and as someone who spends a lot of time observing and thinking about industry trends, I just find that fascinating. Their latest, the BR 03-94 Blacktrack, is squarely in the weird category, and a rare collaboration with an outside designer, Sacha Lakic.  Lakic is known primarily for being the founder of Blacktrack, a Luxembourg based maker of custom cafe racers and other motorcycles. The new BR 03-94 takes specific inspiration from his BT-06 motorcycle, which can be seen p...

IWC Scales Down the Pilot’s Chronograph Top Gun Mojave Desert SJX Watches
IWC Scales Down Oct 19, 2023

IWC Scales Down the Pilot’s Chronograph Top Gun Mojave Desert

After recently introducing a pilot’s watch with a fully-luminous dial and the Big Pilot perpetual in white ceramic, IWC continues to grow its aviation-inspired offerings with the Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 Top Gun Mojave Desert. First introduced as a limited edition in 2019, the sand-coloured ceramic chronograph is now regular production and in a more wearable size of 41 mm. Initial thoughts One of the standouts in the Top Gun collection has been the Mojave Desert with its beige tones – definitely an unusual colour for a oversized sports watch. However, the colour was only applied to larger models to date. The reintroduction of the Mojave Desert in a more compact size, and standard production to boot, is a good thing – though probably not such a good thing for owners of the limited edition version. The smaller case helps with wearability, making this desirable colour combination available to a wider audience. Size aside, there is no major point of difference. The same can be said for price: the new Mojave Desert chronograph retails for US$11,700, mirroring the price tag of the other ceramic chronographs in the collection. A new size, but same style The Mojave Desert chronograph is the latest addition to the “Colours of Top Gun” collection that draws inspiration from the US Navy’s flight school. The colour choice for this model is influenced by the Mojave Desert that surrounds the US Navy’s TOPGUN fighter pilot academy, and its pilots’ distinctive flight...

A Week In Watches, Episode. 65: Seiko Prospex Welcomes New Land References; Baltic Changes Course Worn & Wound
Montblanc /Minerva Oct 15, 2023

A Week In Watches, Episode. 65: Seiko Prospex Welcomes New Land References; Baltic Changes Course

A Week In Watches returns with big news from Seiko, who revealed a pair of new Prospex references which celebrate the brand’s history in land-based watches. The pair of limited editions each pick up something special from Seiko’s history, starting with the SPB411 GMT, a watch that recalls the Navigator Timer of the ’60s, which was Seiko first GMT to feature a rotating bezel. The second is a revival of the Landmaster in celebration of its 30th anniversary, where Seiko has brought back the 3 dimensional compass bezel and blue gradient dial. Both work exceptionally well, and highlight the brand’s deep tool watch roots at their very best. Elsewhere we were thrilled to see a new release from Baltic this week, which shifted away from old-school-cool dive watches and put focus on classic field watches. The frame works brilliantly here with lumed applied numerals, a svelte case, and a trick crown that sits flush with the case wall. The watch boasts 4 different dials at launch, and is a welcome expansion of the brand’s refined sense of design. Finally, new releases from Nomos and Ming, as well as a collaboration between Montblanc/Minerva and Collective round out the news that’s caught our attention this week. Catch the full episode below for the run down, and be sure to leave a comment on your thoughts in the video for us to highlight in the next episode. Thanks to this week’s sponsor, Shinola, for their support. To commemorate 10 years of American design and manufact...

The future of luxury watch marketing is 3D Time+Tide
Oct 7, 2023

The future of luxury watch marketing is 3D

Watches are big business, and despite periodic highs and lows, the industry is estimated to wind up 2023 at nearly US$100 billion. Naturally, competition is fierce, and brands are always looking for new ways to stand out from the crowd. Of course, this can happen when you release a great product, but getting consumers’ attention … ContinuedThe post The future of luxury watch marketing is 3D appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

A Roundup of High End IWC Releases from the Last Month Worn & Wound
IWC Releases from Oct 4, 2023

A Roundup of High End IWC Releases from the Last Month

If you think IWC has been catching their breath after reimagining the Ingenieur earlier this year, think again. The Schaffhausen-based brand has been busy dishing out high end watches over the last month – headlined by the Big Pilot’s Watch 43 Tourbillon Markus Bühler – as well as heavy hitters through partnerships with automotive powerhouses. From complications to composite materials, there’s a lot to dig into here. Travel back to winter 2008 for a moment. The global economy is still roiled in recession, the federal funds rate is zero, and IWC marches out one of the rarest and most distinctive references ever: the Big Pilot’s Watch Edition Markus Bühler (Ref. 5003). Named after famed IWC apprentice Markus Bühler, the watch featured airplane turbines on the dial and also on its movement. A few years earlier, Bühler’s concept had won the top prize at the Prix IFHH de l’Horlogerie (now known as the Concours IHC), and IWC only made a limited run of twelve pieces. A decade and a half later we meet its successor, the Big Pilot’s Watch 43 Tourbillon Markus Bühler. It’s platinum, it’s 43mm, and it’s a real unit. True to form, the turbine is back but has now been integrated into a flying (haha) tourbillon. IWC has crafted the turbine blades from a titanium alloy for weight saving and even repurposed its upper cage as the regulator. The hairspring is attached to one of the blades, allowing a watchmaker to adjust the zero crossing of the balance simply by ...

Seiko Recreates the Classic Reference 6117 with the New Prospex Land Mechanical GMT Worn & Wound
Seiko Recreates Oct 3, 2023

Seiko Recreates the Classic Reference 6117 with the New Prospex Land Mechanical GMT

Seiko made some big news this morning, with the long rumored announcement of a new version of their classic 6117 Navigator Timer. That vintage reference is critically important for many Seiko collectors, an early GMT from 1968 in the same familiar design language of many classic Seiko sports watches. With new GMT calibers now in production, many enthusiasts expected the timing was right for a modern rendition of the 6117, and today they got their wish in the form of the SPB411, the Seiko Prospex Land Mechanical GMT Limited Edition. This new reference is a fairly faithful rendition of the classic watch from the 60s, with modern components and design choices only where they’re most appropriate, and plenty of restraint everywhere else (no Prospex logo on the dial!). For GMT fans and Seiko collectors, the SPB411 is a significant new release.  All the hallmarks of the 6117 would appear to be present in the SPB411. Namely, the distinctive cushion case, the rotating 24 hour bezel, and a slate gray dial. The “Navigator Timer” wordmark no longer appears on the dial, but otherwise it’s a solid recreation, with rectangular hour markers and thin, block hands carried over to the new release, as well as a short red arrow GMT hand. That gray dial has a sunray finish, and we get a date window at 3:00 with a contrasting white background. Most importantly for fans of the original, the case size has remained consistent. The SPB411 comes in at 38.5mm in diameter, just about half a mi...

Which Rolex Movement Takes the Top Spot? A Watchmaker’s Comparison of Rolex Calibers 3135 and 3235, plus Which is Better? – Reprise Quill & Pad
Rolex Movement Takes Sep 19, 2023

Which Rolex Movement Takes the Top Spot? A Watchmaker’s Comparison of Rolex Calibers 3135 and 3235, plus Which is Better? – Reprise

Ask any watchmaker about the Rolex 31 family of calibers and the story will be the same: it has stood the test of time. Ashton Tracy hasn’t met a single watchmaker who doesn’t love working on these workhorse Rolex movements. They are easy to service, keep great time, and stand up to abuse. Put simply: they work. So how does it stand up to big brother, Find out right here!

Aeronom Aero One BLK Time+Tide
Ball Watch Co but any fan Sep 18, 2023

Aeronom Aero One BLK

Industrial watch design comes up a lot when discussing brands such as Hublot and Ball Watch Co, but any fan of Rammstein can assure you that nobody does industrial like the Germans. Aeronom was founded to be brash and bold, inspired by the urban sprawls of city architecture, streetwear and hip-hop. Their first release focused … ContinuedThe post Aeronom Aero One BLK appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Interview: Lange CEO Wilhelm Schmid Talks Retail and CPO SJX Watches
Rolex buying Bucherer Sep 14, 2023

Interview: Lange CEO Wilhelm Schmid Talks Retail and CPO

Very few will have missed the news of Rolex buying Bucherer, and all of the reactions to it. Given the big change this poses to the world of watch retail, when we were recently given the chance to speak with Wilhelm Schmid, chief executive of A. Lange & Söhne, we thought it the perfect opportunity to get his insight on the current retail landscape.  We sat down with the seasoned leader – now the longest-serving brand boss in Richemont – at this year’s Concours of Elegance, the classic car show at Hampton Court Palace, surrounded by the sounds of vintage V8s revving in the distance. Now that the world has exited the pandemic for good, the way we shop seems to be going back to normal and the shifts that brands made during those turbulent years are either being undone or slowly wound down in the hope that customers are willing to go back to the old ways of doing things and getting out to physical stores. Mr Schmid is certainly of the mindset that a face-to-face connection is the only way to sell one of their watches, as we discovered in our discussion below.  Not only did we talk about how the German brand plans to change their retail strategy moving forward, we also queried him on the Bucherer takeover and how Lange is adapting the to rising tide of brands developing certified pre-owned (CPO) offerings.  The following interview has been edited for clarity and length.  Wilhelm Schmid (left) with the best-in-show winner at the Concours of Elegance 2023 RPS: Perhaps...

TAG Heuer Introduces the Monaco Night Driver, a Moody, Fully Lumed Interpretation of the Classic Monaco Aesthetic Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko s “Godzilla” anniversary piece Sep 14, 2023

TAG Heuer Introduces the Monaco Night Driver, a Moody, Fully Lumed Interpretation of the Classic Monaco Aesthetic

I have a friend in the local watch collecting community – let’s call him “Eric,” because that’s his name – and in the ongoing group chat between us and a handful of (sometimes) like-minded watch enthusiasts, a concept has emerged that we like to refer to as the “Eric Watch.” Eric has a very particular taste. He likes big watches, lots of lume, and is almost always drawn to the unusual. His collection, if you grouped all the watches he’s over owned together in a lineup, would be a real Island of Misfit Toys scenario. Watches go in and out of his collection at a rapid clip (instead of saying “congrats” when he posts a new acquisition, we like to say “good luck with sale”) but at various times he’s owned at least four different quartz Speedmasters, the Mario Kart Carrera, a black coated Cartier Santos, and a whole bunch of Breitlings made from materials ranging from “Breitlight” to gold. His ultimate grail watch is Grand Seiko’s “Godzilla” anniversary piece. You get the idea.  When I saw the press release for the new Monaco Night Driver from TAG Heuer, I thought to myself, “This might be the ultimate Eric Watch,” and in fact wondered if it was designed by an artificial intelligence that had somehow downloaded his consciousness. First of all, it’s a Monaco. I’ve lost count of the number of Monaco pics he’s sent to the group chat over the years – let’s just stipulate that he’s a fan. Also, the titanium case is coated in bla...

Swatch x Blancpain collab has debuted. But will it have the same lasting momentum as the MoonSwatch? Time+Tide
Blancpain collab has debuted But Sep 8, 2023

Swatch x Blancpain collab has debuted. But will it have the same lasting momentum as the MoonSwatch?

Well, considering the big launch yesterday I think we all know what the news of the week is: the new Swatch x Blancpain BioCeramic Scuba Fifty Fathoms collection. The Swatch x Omega MoonSwatch was a groundbreaking collaboration. Upon its debut, not only did it shake up watch enthusiasts, it also affected the mainstream. Genuine collectors … ContinuedThe post Swatch x Blancpain collab has debuted. But will it have the same lasting momentum as the MoonSwatch? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.