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Stella Dial Rolex

1970s-80s lacquered colour dials for Rolex Day-Date; red / turquoise / salmon / lavender. Auction range $200k-$1M+.

Hands-On: Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Master Control Chronomètre Perpetual Calendar Ushers In A New Era WatchAdvice
Jaeger-LeCoultre s Master Control Chronomètre Sep 22, 2026

Hands-On: Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Master Control Chronomètre Perpetual Calendar Ushers In A New Era

I take the new Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Chronomètre Perpetual Calendar hands-on to discover how the Maison has combined an ultra-thin complication with its first integrated bracelet design! What We Love: Impressively slim perpetual calendar architecture Beautifully executed integrated bracelet design Excellent proportions to suit a range of wrist sizes What We Don’t: Pink gold and toffee dial lack contrast Calendar adjustments still require a corrector No factory strap alternative currently offered Overall Rating: 9.5/10 Value for Money: 9.5/10 Wearability: 9.7/10 Design: 9.5/10 Build Quality: 9.5/10 Jaeger-LeCoultre has created a bold new direction for its Master Control collection with the introduction of the Master Control Chronomètre family. This new collection brings an integrated bracelet to the Maison for the very first time, while taking the traditional elegance of the Master Control and presenting it through a more contemporary design. Did Jaeger-LeCoultre Perfect The Integrated Bracelet Watch? (Hands On) Hands On With The Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Chronometre Date Power Reserve The Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Chronomètre Date and Master Control Chronomètre Date Power Reserve Reviews! The Master Control Chronomètre family introduces three new models: the Chronomètre Date, the Chronomètre Date Power Reserve and, lastly, the most complicated of the three, the Chronomètre Perpetual Calendar. Jaeger-LeCoultre first introduced the Master ...

Both Online And Offline: The New H. Moser & Cie. Off-Grid Is The Digital Watch For Enthusiasts Fratello
H. Moser & Cie Off-Grid Sep 21, 2026

Both Online And Offline: The New H. Moser & Cie. Off-Grid Is The Digital Watch For Enthusiasts

Today, H. Moser & Cie. is going digital with the new Off-Grid, a watch that takes the brand’s minimalist approach into some untapped territory. Available in two versions, the Off-Grid combines a 42.6mm PVD-treated steel case with a skeletonized dial and a digital display at 6 o’clock. One version pairs blue PVD with a Blackor […] Visit Both Online And Offline: The New H. Moser & Cie. Off-Grid Is The Digital Watch For Enthusiasts to read the full article.

Bone-Chilling News: Charlie Adds Five Updated Concordia GMT Watches To Its Lineup Fratello
Sep 19, 2026

Bone-Chilling News: Charlie Adds Five Updated Concordia GMT Watches To Its Lineup

Arctic surfing — why not? And why not do it in style? Charlie, a small independent watch brand from Paris, adds five updated Concordia GMT watches to its lineup, and not only are they adventure-proof, but they also have a certain je ne sais quoi flair. It must be the subtle dial colors of the […] Visit Bone-Chilling News: Charlie Adds Five Updated Concordia GMT Watches To Its Lineup to read the full article.

Has Longines Mastered The Monopusher Chronograph? (Hands-On) WatchAdvice
Longines Mastered Sep 17, 2026

Has Longines Mastered The Monopusher Chronograph? (Hands-On)

Longines has put a new spin on another classic complication, but does the function translate to form? Let’s find out! What We Love: Modernised take on heritage design Big but easy to wear Ludicrous value proposition What We Don’t: Dial feels slightly shrunken Unusual clasp system Is a manual wind chrono still the way to go? Overall Rating: 9.25/10 Value for Money: 10/10 Wearability: 9/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 9/10 Watch brands pay tribute to their heritage in different ways. Some do this by way of lineage, where iconic aspects of their design or craftsmanship are carried forward into the modern day. Others do this through innovation, respecting their history of disruptive advancement by introducing new technical breakthroughs with every consecutive piece. However, esteemed watch brand Longines takes a different route: reviving and overhauling watches from its exhaustive archives. Even a slight glance towards its catalogue is indicative of such dedication. Almost all of Longines’ watches, through both design and engineering, uphold what is nearing two centuries’ worth of tradition. But for as often as it loves to resurrect archival pieces, it does so in a way that feels organic to the brand’s longstanding philosophies. Earlier this year, that ethos manifested itself in the Conquest Heritage Central Power Reserve, a reintroduction of a timepiece from the lesser-known horological history of the 1950s. This time, they’ve gone even further back to the early...

Introducing: The IWC Ingenieur 50th Anniversary Limited Editions (Live Pics) Hodinkee
IWC Ingenieur 50th Anniversary Limited Sep 15, 2026

Introducing: The IWC Ingenieur 50th Anniversary Limited Editions (Live Pics)

What We Know Today, to mark 50 years of Gérald Genta's Ingenieur SL design, IWC has released two limited-edition modern Ingenieur revival models in stainless steel. Both versions feature the same new dial design in the main 40mm size and a smaller 35mm case. It's a tribute to IWC's slice of Genta history, a throwback to 1976, when Genta's design of the Ingenieur SL, ref. 1832, was first born. The original integrated-bracelet "Jumbo" Ingenieur SL's 40 mm size was ambitious for its time, and sadly the market did not reward it—the release was a commercial failure. IWC notes that it made only 598 pieces between the Ingenieur SL's launch in 1976 and 1983. But today, given the public's general affinity for Genta's iconic integrated-bracelet designs, the fiftieth anniversary of the SL design may be well timed. It references a more obscure dial variant of the Jumbo SL, one with a vertically brushed silver-plated dial rather than the more familiar grid pattern. The exhibition caseback of the 35mm model. In this modern iteration, the specs remain identical to the current 40mm and 35mm models, with the 35mm featuring an exhibition caseback to showcase the Caliber 47110 inside. The 40mm model, with its IWC-manufactured 32111 caliber, has a closed caseback and a soft-iron inner case for increased magnetic-field protection. In a nod to the anniversary, a "50" is printed right below the Ingenieur logo at 6 o'clock, where the "SL" would have been on the original. Each reference is limi...

Czapek returns to its Geneva roots with two very different shades of blue Time+Tide
Czapek returns Sep 9, 2026

Czapek returns to its Geneva roots with two very different shades of blue

Czapek celebrated its new flagship at Quai des Bergues 27 by releasing two limited editions during Geneva Watch Days 2026. The Quai des Bergues Midnight in Geneva pairs a 40.5mm steel case with a dark blue aventurine dial and Czapek’s seven-day, manually wound Calibre SXH1. The Place Vendôme Complicité Glacier Blue places its open-worked double-escapement … Continued

A. Lange & Söhne Introduces Limited Edition 1815 Up/Down Models in a Smaller Size Worn & Wound
A. Lange & Sohne Sep 8, 2026

A. Lange & Söhne Introduces Limited Edition 1815 Up/Down Models in a Smaller Size

A Lange & Söhne has introduced new limited edition versions of their 1815 Up/Down model, one of the brand’s key references for years. The Up/Down is a true enthusiast favorite, prized by Lange collectors for its unique and very German presentation of the power reserve on the dial, located within a circular subdial at the 8:00 position. This style of power reserve indicator is traced back to German pocket watches made in the late 19th century, and I personally have always loved the way it looks on Lange 1815s.  The new references are newsmaking primarily because they are sized down from the brand’s current standard 1815 Up/Down, which measures in at 39mm. The original Up/Down, which is highly collectible today, had a 35.9mm case when it debuted. The case size of these new limited editions, in either white or pink gold, comes in at 37.5mm. That seems to me to be a pretty good compromise for a watch like this, which has always been conceived as a pure dress piece. It remains impressively thin, with a case height of 8.7mm.  The dial is a cool, desaturated blue, with silver subdials for the power reserve and running seconds at 8:00 and 4:00, respectively. The color here would appear to be a bit of a tribute or callout to the original Up/Down, which was available in a similar but not quite identical shade. Blue is a color Lange frequently returns to for special editions and limited releases. Otherwise, the dial is fairly standard 1815 Up/Down fare, which is to say it’s ...

Hands-On: the Chronoswiss Pulse GMT Worn & Wound
Chronoswiss Pulse GMT I love Sep 8, 2026

Hands-On: the Chronoswiss Pulse GMT

I love the experience of a truly unique watch. A watch that, despite doing what the rest of them do, for all intents and purposes, is still unlike anything you’ve strapped to your wrist. This goes beyond the dial to the case, bracelet, time-telling, movement, etc. It doesn’t have to encompass all of those things, but when it does, it reminds you that there is still creativity in the watch world. The Chronoswiss Pulse GMT is one such watch. It’s almost hard to describe the Pulse GMT. It’s something between an integrated-bracelet sports watch and a conceptual neo-futurist travel thingamajiggy. Frankly, had I been told it was a prop from *Gattaca* or another stylized sci-fi film, I might have believed it. Its lines are fluid and complex, except when they aren’t, touching on biomorphic forms while also speaking to the traditional inspirations the brand was founded on. It’s not an easy watch to digest at a glance, presenting conflicting forms, and yet it works. Well, for me it does, but I like weird watches. And regulators. And weird regulators. Starting with the case and bracelet, though integrated, there is a merging of two concepts. Ignoring the bracelet entirely, the central case measures 41.4mm x ~48mm x 13.6mm to the top of the slightly domed sapphire crystal and draws from the brand’s historical DNA, but mutates it substantially. The coined-edge bezel and caseback become notched instead. Less ornate but still textural, it gives more diver than pocket watch....

TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Sport Hands-On Review: A Bigger, Sportier Carrera WatchAdvice
TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Sport Hands-On Sep 7, 2026

TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Sport Hands-On Review: A Bigger, Sportier Carrera

TAG Heuer has just unveiled the new Carrera Chronograph Sport, staying true to the model’s DNA, but in a more beefed-up fashion! What We Love The classic Carrera case shape is still immediately recognisable The move to 42mm makes the Carrera Sport much more wearable than the previous generation The green dial and silver dial variants look particularly good in person What We Don’t At 42mm, it is still a reasonably substantial watch The more robust design won’t have the same versatility as the 39mm Carrera Glass Box The blue dial and black dial models are not as eye-catching Overall Rating: 8.5 / 10 Value For Money: 8/10 Design: 8.5/10 Wearability: 8.5/10 Build Quality: 9/10 The TAG Heuer Carrera has never really needed an introduction. It has been one of the defining chronographs in the TAG Heuer collection since Jack Heuer introduced it in 1963, and over the years I’ve had the chance to wear and review plenty of different versions. Now, with the new Carrera Chronograph Sport, (just in time for the Madrid Grand Prix, as TAG Heuer is the race sponsor, I might add), TAG Heuer has taken the familiar Carrera formula and given it a little more presence, a sportier feel and, importantly, some better proportions. The new TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Sport models As you may imagine, this is not my first time wearing a TAG Heuer Carrera. I’ve reviewed plenty of Carreras over the years, from the revamped Glass Box models introduced in 2023 through to the Rose Gold Carrera ...

Lange’s Triple Split is Now a Platinum Panda SJX Watches
Sep 4, 2026

Lange’s Triple Split is Now a Platinum Panda

Arguably the most accomplished A. Lange & Söhne chronograph – and undoubtedly the largest – the Triple Split returns for the third time in the best looking guise yet. Now in platinum for the first time, the new Triple Split has a silver dial with dark grey registers – a “panda” dial done Lange style. Following the last iteration in pink gold from 2021, the latest Triple Split is a new take on the familiar model, so the rest remains the same, including the chunky case that’s 15.6 mm high and accommodates the magnificent, multilayered L132.1 that can measure a pair of elapsed times of up to 12 hours, a world first and only. Initial thoughts The new Triple Split is merely a cosmetic variation on the model, but it’s probably the most appealing version of the model to date. The “panda” dial is a pale grey that reminds me of a long-ago Lange limited edition chronograph, while the dark grey sub-dials are a striking feature rarely found on Lange chronographs. Likewise, the case is identically sized, but now in platinum. The immediate impression of the Triple Split is one of size and weight – now even weightier thanks to the platinum case. It’s a reassuring feeling, albeit at the expense of balance on the wrist and ergonomics. This sensation is de rigueur for complicated Lange watches. In keeping with Lange’s recent confidence, the Triple Split is more expensive than its prior iterations, even accounting for the platinum case. But as is the case with the b...

Golden Obsidian for Gérald Genta’s Minute Repeater SJX Watches
Ming having both options Sep 3, 2026

Golden Obsidian for Gérald Genta’s Minute Repeater

One of the most striking watches to debut at Geneva Watch Days is a new variant of Gérald Genta’s Minute Repeater featuring a dial made of Golden Obsidian. In variation from last year’s debut, it’s forgone the glossy black onyx dial in favour of naturally formed volcanic glass. Initial thoughts Beyond the dial the only change is the strap, still with its signature centre-lug though now in a brown calfskin which nicely dresses down the overall package. It’s a perfect example of the brand’s ethos as they expand the collection: methodical, deliberate and measured. Small changes that stack up and give buyers more choice, and the addition of the Golden Obsidian alongside the Onyx shows how one small change can take a watch from classical and serious to relaxed and charming — having both options in the lineup should help satisfy still-healthy demand for stone dials perfectly compliment each other and goes far to round out a healthily expanding lineup for Gérald Genta. Obsidian dial Golden obsidian is a variant of the jet-black volcanic obsidian you’re likely familiar with. It forms naturally when lava cools rapidly and traps microscopic pockets of iron, air and gas bubbles forming organic striations and graining through the glass. These imperfections give golden obsidian its warmth and shimmer, changing dramatically as light hits it from different angles. What it does share with stone is its unique formation, so no two Golden Obsidian dials will be alike. Like wi...

Introducing - New Versions of the Bremont Terra Nova Jumping Hour, Including a New 35mm Size Monochrome
Bremont Terra Nova Jumping Hour Sep 1, 2026

Introducing - New Versions of the Bremont Terra Nova Jumping Hour, Including a New 35mm Size

Marking a pronounced design shift for the British watchmaker, Bremont released the bold Terra Nova Jumping Hour model in 2025. A field watch inspired by early 20th-century military pocket watches and World War I trench watches, the Jumping Hour comes with two different displays: a 38mm montre à guichet-style watch with a covered dial and […]

These are 9 Under the Radar Enamel Dials You Should Know Worn & Wound
Vacheron Constantin Jaquet Droz Aug 27, 2026

These are 9 Under the Radar Enamel Dials You Should Know

Probably one of the proudest informal titles I’ve garnered in my nearly 15-year career in the watch industry is “the resident enamel girl.” As a refresher, I fell in love with the artform in a hands-on workshop during a press trip several years ago and have gone on to complete three different apprenticeships in Switzerland studying the craft. I have an immense appreciation not only for the beauty of enamel dials but also the meticulous creative process behind them. Enamel dials were long held in esteem as one of the elements of watchmaking reserved for the elite, much like high complications. It’s no small feat to bring a well-executed enamel dial to life. The materials, tools, machines, and the expert level of training for the craftspeople were once gripped tightly by top brands like Patek Philippe, Breguet, Vacheron Constantin, Jaquet Droz, and Van Cleef & Arpels. Let me be clear – in practice, brand clout ultimately does not correlate to the best enamel dials. There’s a particular maison not named here (and who I will not call out by name) but who is one of the biggest names in the industry, with every resource at their disposal, and one of their recent and highly popular enamel dials is unbearably mediocre if you give it a look under a loupe. Thankfully, the collector community is starting to come around to this notion that enamel from independent brands can be equally good if not better than the old guard. If you need further proof, here are nine under the...

Introducing: The AnOrdain Model 1 Porcelain (Live Pics) Hodinkee
Anordain Model 1 Porcelain Live Aug 27, 2026

Introducing: The AnOrdain Model 1 Porcelain (Live Pics)

What We Know Today, Glaswegian brand AnOrdain, known for its handcrafted grand feu enamel dials, introduces the second entry in its porcelain dial series with the Model 1 Porcelain. Counterintuitively, it follows last year's Model 2 Porcelain, which marked the brand's first watch with a porcelain dial. While the dials are still produced by hand in AnOrdain's Glasgow workshop, using a traditional porcelain-making process (no zirconium ceramic sheets or injection-molded clay slurry), the firing of the clay and vitreous glaze at high heat for these porcelain dials can be done at a much larger scale. AnOrdain provides a comparison here of production rates—50 vitreous enamel dials per month across seven enamellers, while one ceramic specialist can produce 30-40 porcelain dials. And though it may be easy to assume porcelain dials are more forgiving and capable of higher yields, the brand notes that the final dials come from an approximate total of 300 produced, meaning there's still a mighty high rejection rate associated with porcelain dialmaking. The Model 1 Porcelain starts with, well, the brand's Model 1 case design in stainless steel. It is a reasonably compact watch, with a diameter of 38mm, a lug-to-lug measurement of 46mm, and a thickness of 11mm. The Model 1 silhouette features a short lug design with broad outer polished faceting, making the lugs feel even slimmer on the wrist. Polishing is also found on the smooth, rounded bezel, while the midcase and screwed-in cas...

Reinvented Royter Debuts Hand-Engraved Nova SJX Watches
Rexhep Rexhepi unobtainable Aug 25, 2026

Reinvented Royter Debuts Hand-Engraved Nova

Brooklyn-based independent watchmaker Dan Royter takes a new direction with the Legacy Series Nova Edition, entirely unlike his past portfolio of chronographs. The first entry in the brand’s new chapter combines a hand-engraved, burgundy lacquered silver dial with a high-end movement from Andreas Strehler in a mid-sized steel case. The Nova is an enormous step up for the budding American independent in terms of design, decoration, and price. Initial thoughts The impressive artistry of the Nova is surprising given Royter’s humble roots building white-label ETA 7750-powered chronographs, before exploring more ambitious dials with an emphasis on customisation. For a one-man operation, the launch of the Nova seemingly means the end for the DR-02 chronograph. Until recently, Royter was the DR-02 and the DR-02 was Royter. Much of the recent explosion of independent watchmaking has concentrated on this genre of three-hand watches with finely decorated movements and artful dials, or, as is increasingly common, exposed movements. However, the sudden flood of new entrants to this once (nearly) non-existent segment hasn’t resulted in a supply glut. Rather, demand from collectors has grown far faster, making watches from blue-chip brands like Dufour, Voutilainen, and Rexhep Rexhepi unobtainable and raising the floor for less-established brands. Royter signs his work in the manner you’d expect of a master engraver. The point of this preamble is to explain, not justify, why the ...

Hands On: Roger Dubuis Excalibur Biretrograde Perpetual Calendar SJX Watches
Roger Dubuis Excalibur Biretrograde Perpetual Calendar Aug 24, 2026

Hands On: Roger Dubuis Excalibur Biretrograde Perpetual Calendar

The Roger Dubuis (RD) Excalibur Biretrograde Perpetual Calendar is something of a bridge across eras for RD, combining the brand’s seminal biretrograde calendar format with the 2000s-era Excalibur case, executed in RD’s current lavishly layered house style. The revised perpetual calendar module brings plenty of haute horlogerie finishing to the dial side, and should prove more reliable than past iterations as well. Initial thoughts The Excalibur Biretrograde Perpetual is a new model, but it feels like a watch that has always been around, combining several familiar Roger Dubuis elements. Chief among them is the biretrograde format, which has been a staple of the brand since its founding era. When the Excalibur Biretrograde Calendar debuted last year, we speculated that a perpetual version was likely in the pipeline, and we didn’t have to wait long to find out. In terms of design, it’s pure RD through and through. The brand has offered glimpses of a return to its roots — the Hommage La Placide was well-received by neo-vintage enthusiasts — but it’s clear the brand remains committed to this bolder, more flamboyant vision of haute horlogerie that it has been championing since the launch of the Excalibur in 2005, albeit at a smaller size. Of course, the design won’t appeal to everyone, but that might be a good thing. Taste convergence favours the classics, but the polarising Excalibur aesthetic will appeal to those who appreciate traditional watchmaking but are ...

IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 Le Petit Prince Review: Two Materials, Two Personalities WatchAdvice
IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 Aug 21, 2026

IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 Le Petit Prince Review: Two Materials, Two Personalities

I take IWC’s latest Le Petit Prince chronographs for a hands-on review to discover how two materials completely transform the same design. What We Love Eye-catching white ceramic case and deep-blue dial contrast Ceramic model is lightweight and comfortable to wear, despite its substantial dimensions Two distinct personalities across ceramic and steel What We Don’t Full white ceramic edition lacks everyday versatility Both models are still relatively thick on the wrist 46 hour power reserve is modest by modern watchmaking standards. Overall Rating: 8.6 / 10 Value For Money: 8.7/10 Design: 8.5/10 Wearability: 8.7/10 Build Quality: 8.5/10 To mark 20 years of its collaboration with the heirs of Antoine de Saint-Exupéry, IWC expands its Le Petit Prince lineup with new Pilot’s Watch Chronograph editions in stainless steel and white ceramic. This was one of IWC’s main themes for Watches & Wonders 2026, with a wide range of models carrying the signature Le Petit Prince design. There are few collections as closely connected to IWC’s modern identity as the Pilot’s Watch, which carries a design inspired by the functional appearance of cockpit instrumentation. The Pilot’s Watch Chronograph then combines this aviation-inspired design with one of IWC’s best-known mechanical strengths in watchmaking: chronographs. IWC Schaffhausen’s connection to the story of Le Petit Prince began in 2006, when the Swiss watchmaker started collaborating with the descendants of Fren...

Racing Heritage Reimagined: The Subtly-Charming Chopard Mille Miglia Classic Chronograph Raticosa Fratello
Chopard Mille Miglia Classic Chronograph Aug 17, 2026

Racing Heritage Reimagined: The Subtly-Charming Chopard Mille Miglia Classic Chronograph Raticosa

The race might have finished, but the watch remains. The Chopard Mille Miglia Classic Chronograph Raticosa also looks good when you’re not behind the wheel of a Mercedes‑Benz 300 SL Gullwing storming the 968 meters-high Raticosa pass in the Tuscan-Emilian Apennines. This Lucent steel chronograph with its eggshell dial is an all-year, all-rounder that looks […] Visit Racing Heritage Reimagined: The Subtly-Charming Chopard Mille Miglia Classic Chronograph Raticosa to read the full article.

Is The Piaget Polo Signature Date Exactly What The Brand Needed? (Hands-On) WatchAdvice
Piaget Polo Signature Date Exactly Aug 14, 2026

Is The Piaget Polo Signature Date Exactly What The Brand Needed? (Hands-On)

Piaget’s released a new iteration of their Polo Signature Date, but does it truly embody the brand’s modern creative vision? Let’s find out! What We Love: Shapely, wearable case More distinct dial & identity The rubber strap – still comfortable! What We Don’t: Crown feels slightly small Dead zone when changing times Is it finally recognisable? Overall Rating: 9.25/10 Value for Money: 9/10 Wearability: 9.5/10 Design: 10/10 Build Quality: 8.5/10 For as much as I love watches for their design, technology, or daring in either field, recognition must be recognised as one of the most important elements of a watch brand’s arsenal. When a watch brand goes ‘mainstream’ within the enthusiast community, it brings with it a significant amount of power within the watch world. But it’s usually easier said than done; scant few brands have managed to capture the attention of both hardcore enthusiasts and luxury lovers at the same time. Piaget is a brand that has perennially clung to the fringes of that audience. In the past, they hadn’t been able to tap into the enthusiast crowd with the same level of magnitude as some of their peers in Richemont. While one can easily point the finger towards characteristics like ultra-luxury and exclusivity, it hasn’t stopped other brands of a similar calibre from breaking through. So if not that, then what? Perhaps it’s due to a lack of distinctive visual identity, which in recent years has begun to change. While fans of the ...

IWC Dresses the Big Pilot ProSet IW329603 in Black and Gold for 140 Years of Mercedes-Benz WatchRider
IWC Dresses Aug 14, 2026

IWC Dresses the Big Pilot ProSet IW329603 in Black and Gold for 140 Years of Mercedes-Benz

IWC introduced the Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar ProSet 140 Years Mercedes-Benz on August 13, 2026. Reference IW329603 is limited to 140 pieces, one for each year since the invention of the automobile in 1886. The anniversary edition combines a 42mm stainless steel case with a black-and-gold dial and IWC’s new ProSet perpetual calendar, which can be corrected both forward and backward. The limited IW329603 combines a 42mm steel case, black dial and gold details. Image: IWC. The dial is the best part I like the design, especially the dial. The glossy black surface gives the four subdials enough visual separation, while the solid gold appliqués and gold-plated hands make the display warmer without making it look gaudy. A white minute track keeps the outer edge clear. The date sits at 3 o’clock, the month at 6, the day at 9 and the Double Moon display at 12. A four-digit year window appears between 7 and 8 o’clock. The angled view shows the solid gold appliqués, gold-plated hands and four calendar subdials. Image: IWC. The brushed and polished steel case is 42mm wide and 14mm thick. It remains a substantial watch, especially on my 6.5-inch wrist, but these dimensions are easier to imagine wearing than the traditional oversized Big Pilot format. A convex sapphire crystal has anti-reflective coating on both sides, while the sapphire caseback carries the first joint Mercedes-Benz logo from 1926, combining the three-pointed star with a laurel wreath. That histori...

Hands On: Greubel Forsey Balancier 3 Titanium SJX Watches
Greubel Forsey Balancier 3 Titanium Aug 12, 2026

Hands On: Greubel Forsey Balancier 3 Titanium

The Greubel Forsey (GF) Balancier 3 topped our summer watch wish list thanks to its uncompromising craftsmanship and ergonomic form factor. Though not an altogether new watch — the model debuted in 2023 — the “baby blue” edition updates the formula with a dimpled finish on the prominent Y-shaped bridge that spans the dial. Initial thoughts Greubel Forsey is one of the few artisanal independent brands that has managed to create a distinctive and compelling sports watch. While the style of the Balancier 3 might be an acquired taste for some — especially those who prefer more of a dial — the quality of make is obvious and the finishing is almost clinical in its perfection. This helps justify the steep cost of entry, even for an ‘entry level’ model like the Balancier 3. The Convexe line grew significantly during former CEO Antonio Calce’s tenure, from late 2020 to early 2024, as the brand prepared to scale. Fortunately, the brand pulled the plug on its growth plan and has subsequently reverted to a more balanced line-up, no pun intended. Beyond the blue colour, the primary element that distinguishes this edition is the dimpled finish of the titanium bridge that supports the hand stack. More than just a finish applied for its own sake, the matte treatment helps break up the monotony of mirror-polished elements on the “dial” and provides enhanced contrast with its own mirror-polished bevels. To achieve this look on titanium, the GF developed a new technique...