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Hands On: Daniel Roth Tourbillon Rose Gold SJX Watches
Daniel Roth Aug 29, 2024

Hands On: Daniel Roth Tourbillon Rose Gold

Following the revival of Daniel Roth with the launch of the limited edition Tourbillon Souscription last year, the brand is now building its catalogue with the Tourbillon Rose Gold, which will be a regular production model. The Tourbillon Rose Gold is a variation of the original with tweaks to the decoration and material, but most significantly, the new tourbillon is fitted with a display back that shows off the DR001 movement. Initial thoughts It was expected that Daniel Roth would follow up with a regular production tourbillon, so the Tourbillon Rose Gold is not surprising. Like the Souscription, it has an obviously high quality of make in construction, finishing, and details. Both the dial and case are 5N rose gold so it is strikingly pink, giving it a stronger presence than the Souscription, which in comparison is low key. It was a shame that the DR001 movement was hidden in the Tourbillon Souscription because the calibre is worth admiring. The movement is high quality in both design and finishing, boasting many details that enthusiasts now regard as key elements of haute horlogerie. The quality of finishing is impressive. In fact, the movement decoration is as good as some small-scale independent brands, reflecting the attention to detail that has characterised the resurrected Daniel Roth brand. Admittedly, such fine finishing isn’t as rare as it once was, since it is now sought after by enthusiasts and specialist subcontractors have sprung up to cater to that deman...

Konstantin Chaykin Claims Title for Thinnest Mechanical Watch SJX Watches
Richard Mille outdoing each other Aug 29, 2024

Konstantin Chaykin Claims Title for Thinnest Mechanical Watch

The race towards nothingness in ultra-thin watches has picked up in the last years, with brands like Bulgari and Richard Mille outdoing each other in the thinnest-watch stakes. Now Konstantin Chaykin wins the race with his ThinKing, a prototype that comes in at a staggering 1.65 mm in back-to-back thickness - making it the thinnest mechanical timepiece today. Currently the ThinKing is a concept watch in its second prototype stage, constructed and executed by the Moscow-based independent watchmaker, with three pending patents linked to its development.  Initial thoughts While the technical merits are impressive, the watch seems bland on its face, or at least face-on. It appears to be a large, flat piece of steel with a dull finish, sporting twin eye-like registers for the hours and minutes. The ThinKing doesn’t have the visual flair of Richard Mille RM UP-01 Ferrari or Bulgari Octo Finissimo Ultra. But it is easily recognisable as a Wristmon, the brand’s signature collection of “rolling eye” watches. Since it is only a prototype and the aesthetics are not yet refined for commercial production, the ThinKing’s appearance can be overlooked. The brand name engraved in an arc resembling a smile The ThinKing is absurdly thin at 1.65 mm. This makes it 0.05 mm thinner than the previous record holder for the thinnest mechanical watch, the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Ultra Mark II. Although imperceptible to the naked eye, the minute reduction is amazing from a technical point...

Introducing – An Overview of all the New Watches for the Comeback of Favre Leuba Monochrome
Favre Leuba As we recently discussed Aug 29, 2024

Introducing – An Overview of all the New Watches for the Comeback of Favre Leuba

As we recently discussed with Patrik Hoffmann, long-established brand Favre-Leuba is making a comeback with ambitious plans. To revive one of the oldest names in the watch industry, Hoffmann aims to position the brand within its historical price segment (between CHF 2,000 and 4,500), offering affordable yet high-value watches with a strong vintage inspiration – […]

Albishorn Debuts with the Maxigraph SJX Watches
Massena Lab Aug 29, 2024

Albishorn Debuts with the Maxigraph

Amongst the brands making their debut this summer is Albishorn, which has teamed up with Massena LAB for the Maxigraph, a vintage-inspired regatta timer with a proprietary movement. The Maxigraph is the first watch from Albishorn, a new brand founded by Sébastien Chaulmontet. A lawyer by training, Dr Chaulmontet pivoted to build a career in the watch industry, designing movements at La Joux-Perret and most recently, Sellita. Initial thoughts The Maxigraph is an impressive debut from Dr Chaulmontet. Though arguably similar in concept to other Massena LAB projects, the Maxigraph feels more original since it’s not anchored to any particular historical brand. The bright red chronograph pusher at nine o’clock, for example, is not something you’d see in a vintage catalogue. The polychromatic sector dial and bi-directional rotating bezel are attractive and legible, while the semi-circular countdown register and running indicator add a pleasing degree of asymmetry to the design. The asymmetry continues at night, with an unusual pattern and the use of both green and blue Super-LumiNova for the hour and minute hands, respectively. One of the most appealing characteristics of the Maxigraph is its case, which calls to mind oversized tool watches like the Longines ref. 5824 military chronograph. But unlike that 47 mm beast, the Maxigraph is a manageable 41 mm at the bezel (sloping inwards to just 39 mm at the case middle). The case thickness of 13 mm is typical for this type o...

Fratello Talks: Our Vintage Watch Wishlists Fratello
Aug 29, 2024

Fratello Talks: Our Vintage Watch Wishlists

Hello, and welcome to Fratello Talks! Today, Nacho, RJ, and Thomas share their vintage watch wishlists. As you can imagine, these guys spend a lot of time thinking about watches. But when they’re not writing about the latest releases, they’re often lusting after (and hunting down) vintage watches online. It’s a hazard of the job. […] Visit Fratello Talks: Our Vintage Watch Wishlists to read the full article.

Tudor Introduces a New Blue Black Bay Chronograph on the Eve of Geneva Watch Days Worn & Wound
Tudor Introduces Aug 28, 2024

Tudor Introduces a New Blue Black Bay Chronograph on the Eve of Geneva Watch Days

The watch world descends upon Geneva this week for Geneva Watch Days, which means new releases, which have been on a slow drip all summer, are suddenly on a more aggressive clip. While several dozen brands are official participants in Geneva Watch Days, like Watches & Wonders, other brands tend to jump in on the fun and coordinate releases and even take meetings outside the official program. Tudor is never one to let an opportunity like this pass, and even though they aren’t officially on the docket, they’ve dropped a new release on the eve of the festivities.  The Black Bay Chronograph “Blue” Boutique Edition is exactly what it says on the tin. Here we have a blue panda rendition of the brand’s premier chronograph model, with a deep blue dial and silvered subdials at 9:00 and 3:00. And yes, availability is said to be limited to “select Tudor boutiques.”  This release comes just a few months after Tudor surprised us with an extremely limited pink edition of the Black Bay Chrono. That watch has proven to be among the most sought after new releases of the year, and while the pink dial is certainly the star, the secret weapon is the inclusion of the fantastic five-link bracelet, which saw it’s debut in the chrono lineup on the pink edition. It’s back for the “Blue” Boutique, and based on Tudor supplied imagery alone, I’m prepared to say this is the correct bracelet for this watch, full stop.  In terms of specs, all the key data is carried over from ...

Introducing Gagà Laboratorio, a New Independent Watch Brand with Italian Flare Worn & Wound
Bvlgari Aug 28, 2024

Introducing Gagà Laboratorio, a New Independent Watch Brand with Italian Flare

Two prominent industry insiders have recently collaborated to establish a new watch company, Gagà Laboratorio, based in Switzerland. Mo Coppoletta will serve as the Art Director, and Ruben Tomella as the owner of the Italy based Gagà Milano brand and the newly formed company, Gagà Laboratorio. Mr. Tomella has had a successful tenure with Gagà Milano for two decades. He founded brand offshoot Manufacture Gagà in Switzerland, which has focused on creating high-end products for Gagà Milano in collaboration with leading industry partners, including the development of tourbillon movements in partnership with Hysek, a Swiss independent brand. In 2020, Mr. Tomella decided to redirect the activities of the Swiss company and embarked on establishing a new brand, Gagà Laboratorio. The mission of Gagà Laboratorio is to create entry-level luxury timepieces that emphasize design while maintaining high-quality movement standards. To achieve this vision, he partnered with artist Mo Coppoletta, a long-time friend. Together, they have initiated this new chapter for Gagà. Mo Coppoletta is a world-renowned artist, designer, and tattoo artist, known for his collaborations with Bvlgari on two Octo Finissimo limited editions featuring his tattoo artwork. In my interview with Mr. Tomella, he discusses the vision of Gagà Laboratorio. “After 16 years in the watchmaking industry at the helm of Gagà Milano, in 2020, I felt a strong pull towards the world of independent watchmaking and d...

How To Travel With Your Watch Worn & Wound
Aug 28, 2024

How To Travel With Your Watch

We are currently in the peak vacation travel season, and for us watch enthusiasts, thinking about traveling with our watches can be stressful. Do you wear your most expensive watch? Should you bring multiple watches? If you bring numerous watches, do you put them in your carry-on luggage? What do you store them in? What about TSA security at the airport? All these questions can be daunting, and we wouldn’t blame you for leaving your nice watches at home. Our timepieces are meant to be enjoyed, worn, and have memories built into them. What better memories are there than traveling on holiday? We are currently in the peak vacation travel season, and for us watch enthusiasts, thinking about traveling with our watches can be stressful. Do you wear your most expensive watch? Should you bring multiple watches? If you bring numerous watches, do you put them in your carry-on luggage? What do you store them in? What about TSA security at the airport? All these questions can be daunting, and we wouldn’t blame you for leaving your nice watches at home. Our timepieces are meant to be enjoyed, worn, and have memories built into them. What better memories are there than traveling on holiday? The post How To Travel With Your Watch appeared first on Worn & Wound.

Hands-on – The Roger Dubuis Excalibur Double Tourbillon Cobalt Chrome Monochrome
Roger Dubuis Excalibur Double Tourbillon Cobalt Aug 28, 2024

Hands-on – The Roger Dubuis Excalibur Double Tourbillon Cobalt Chrome

Hyper Horology. A term coined by the Roger Dubuis manufacture that perfectly describes its complex and extravagant watchmaking style. The brand doesn’t shy away from uniquely creative and colourful expressions, regularly incorporating exotic materials stemming from the automotive or aeronautical world. Roger Dubuis’ latest adaptation of its cornerstone Excalibur collection not only incorporates a double […]

Bangalore Watch Company’s Latest is Inspired by Himalayan Rescue Helicopters Worn & Wound
Aug 28, 2024

Bangalore Watch Company’s Latest is Inspired by Himalayan Rescue Helicopters

As India’s luxury market continues to grow, there has been an opportunity for more domestic-made brands to shine. One such brand is the Bangalore Watch Company. Since 2018, the brand has been making timepieces that are inspired by the rich landscape and heritage of the subcontinent. One such series of watches, MACH 1, has centered on the Indian Air Force. Past iterations have focused on various motifs, from formation aerobatics to aircraft carriers. For their latest launch, Bangalore Watch Company has set their sights to the clouds and high-altitude helicopters. The Himalayas have long captivated the cultural imagination of the world – and especially those in India. With over 1,600 peaks with a towering 6,000 meter presence, the mountain range inspires both fear and awe. It’s incredible, then, to think that some of the top aviators in India use helicopters for reconnaissance and resupply operations in some of the most challenging flying conditions on the planet. Enter the Mach 1 Avalanche, inspired by the harsh beauty of the Himalayan peaks and the danger that is intrinsically tied to the airspace. This is first evident with the “Frostpeak” dial, inspired by freshly fallen snow, which shimmers with a motif de grain that plays with light in varying conditions. The bright red minute hand, coated with Super-Luminova, draws inspiration from airspeed indicators and the vibrant colors of mountain rescue helicopters while the case back is engraved with an image of a hel...

Introducing – The Boutique-Only Tudor Black Bay Chrono Blue Monochrome
Breitling derived automatic movement including Aug 28, 2024

Introducing – The Boutique-Only Tudor Black Bay Chrono Blue

First presented in 2017, the Tudor Black Bay Chrono surprised a bit the brand’s fans with its mix of classic dive watch elements (solid water-resistance and snowflake hands) and racing cues, with the chronograph function and external tachymeter bezel. Multiple editions of this watch will follow, all powered by a Breitling-derived automatic movement, including the […]

Introducing – The L’Epée 1839 X MB&F; Albatross, the Friends’ Most Audacious Co-Creation Ever Monochrome
MB&F; Aug 28, 2024

Introducing – The L’Epée 1839 X MB&F; Albatross, the Friends’ Most Audacious Co-Creation Ever

In 10 years, MB&F; and L’Epée 1839 (recently acquired by LVMH) have created no fewer than 15 clocks, all more impressive and creative than the next. Far from the dust-collecting clock you’ll find on your favourite aunt’s mantlepiece, the collaboration between these two watchmakers has resulted in robots, octopods and sci-fi vessels from another world. […]

First Look – The Vacheron Constantin Métiers d’Art The Legend of the Chinese Zodiac – Year of the Snake Monochrome
Vacheron Constantin Métiers d’Art Aug 28, 2024

First Look – The Vacheron Constantin Métiers d’Art The Legend of the Chinese Zodiac – Year of the Snake

Coinciding with Watches & Wonders Shanghai, Vacheron Constantin gets a head start on the 2025 Chinese New Year and releases two limited editions celebrating the Year of the Snake. An annual tradition now for the past 12 years, the brand’s richly decorated Chinese Zodiac pieces not only pay homage to China’s cultural traditions but highlight […]

Hands On: Piaget Polo Skeleton Ceramic SJX Watches
Piaget Polo Skeleton Ceramic Aug 28, 2024

Hands On: Piaget Polo Skeleton Ceramic

In its original form, the Piaget Polo is an all-gold watch emblematic of 1970s style, but the model’s latest incarnation is the opposite. The Polo Skeleton Ceramic has an ultra-thin movement open-worked in a clean, geometric style, presented in brushed black ceramic case. Based on the original in steel, the Polo Skeleton Ceramic is dressed in restrained colours of black, grey, and dark blue, for a minimalist, low-key aesthetic. Initial thoughts The modern Polo has evolved since its original form of 2016, and with the evolution the model has gained its own character. While the original version felt like a typical luxury-sports watch with its patterned blue dial and prominent bezel, the skeleton in ceramic looks original. The matte black ceramic case matches the technical appearance of the movement, though I would have preferred grey or even white Super-Luminova. The blue lume matches the rotor and Piaget’s corporate colour, but it is too unorthodox (and it also glows less brightly). Though finished with the same alternate brushed and polished surfaces as its steel counterpart, the ceramic case feels more refined given the comparative challenge of finishing ceramic to the same degree as steel. The cal. 1200S1 is open worked in a modern style that is typical of many current skeleton movements. All of the bridges have clean lines and surfaces, which complements the case and dial aesthetic. The movement finishing is industrial-haute horlogerie, though I would have employed ...

First Look – The Updated IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Moon & Tide, the First IWC with a Silicon Hairspring Monochrome
Casio n Aug 28, 2024

First Look – The Updated IWC Portugieser Yacht Club Moon & Tide, the First IWC with a Silicon Hairspring

This year, IWC brings the emblematic Portugieser collection under the spotlight, introducing several stunning new additions to the collection, including the impressive Eternal Calendar and updates to several iconic models, such as the chronograph and the 7-day Automatic. On the occasion of Watches and Wonders Shanghai, the brand unveils a new version of its Portugieser […]

The M.A.D.1 Gets a Slimmer, More Wearable Update Worn & Wound
MB&F; Aug 27, 2024

The M.A.D.1 Gets a Slimmer, More Wearable Update

The M.A.D.1 has been a genuine phenomenon since it debuted three years ago. The M.A.D. brand, an offshoot of MB&F;, exists almost by accident. The debut watch was made available to MB&F; friends and family as an affordably priced “thank you” for years of partnership and support, and was eventually made available to the public. Turns out there are a lot of enthusiasts out there who are after a little taste of MB&F; but don’t necessarily have the nearly six figures (or more) for the genuine article. The M.A.D.1, in all of the variants we’ve seen since it launched, has offered fans of independent watchmaking a simulacrum of a much higher end experience, simply by wearing and owning something that originated from the mind of brand founder Max Busser. But, if we’re being honest, there have always been aspects of the M.A.D.1 that could use a little refining to make it more appealing as a watch that you’d actually want to wear day in and day out. The new M.A.D.1S seeks to solve some of those problems.  First and foremost, it’s worth pointing out that isn’t the M.A.D.2, a watch that the brand says has been in the works for some time and will debut next year. Rather, this is an honest to goodness evolution of the original idea, and seems to address some of the common complaints from M.A.D.1 skeptics. The “S” here stands for slimmer, surely the most notable change from the original, which came in at a sometimes comical 18.8mm tall. The new version is just 15mm tall...

Recapping the Worn & Wound Summer Pop-Up Hosted by The James Brand Worn & Wound
Citizen Lōcī Zodiac Aug 27, 2024

Recapping the Worn & Wound Summer Pop-Up Hosted by The James Brand

On Saturday, August 17th, Worn & Wound hit the West Coast to celebrate the opening of the newest headquarters of The James Brand. A large multipurpose space, the Oceanside, California The James Brand location serves as office space, a storefront highlighting their vast collection of EDC items, and now an event space capable of hosting the enthusiast community keen on engaging with and celebrating our shared hobbies. To celebrate its opening, The James Brand invited us out for a one-day-only pop-up event along with our friends from Artefkt, Belmont, Brew, Citizen, Lōcī, Zodiac, and of course, the Windup Watch Shop was there as well. Recently, we have had the pleasure of hosting and attending some excellent meetups allowing us to share our enthusiasm in a more intimate setting. On our first visit to the greater San Diego area, we were overwhelmed by the positivity, passion, and overall good vibes hoisted upon us by the locals. Making the trek down from Los Angeles and up from San Diego, Oceanside became a confluence for both the watch and EDC communities to explore new gear pairings, share their collecting thought processes, and discuss practicality and design. We were blown away by the support and thank all those who attended and shared their passions with us! With The James Brand focusing on minimalistic design with uncompromising functionality, it makes sense that their community and the watch community would overlap. It can sometimes be hard to explain exactly what cau...

First Look – The Autumn-Themed Grand Seiko Elegance Spring Drive SBGA499 Monochrome
Grand Seiko Elegance Spring Drive SBGA499 Aug 27, 2024

First Look – The Autumn-Themed Grand Seiko Elegance Spring Drive SBGA499

This morning we’ve already introduced to you a Grand Seiko watch featuring a deep, rich red dial to evoke the arrival of autumn: the Elegance Karasawa SBGY035 Limited edition. Already a pleasant surprise from the Japanese watchmaker, this watch didn’t come alone and is accompanied by yet another red-toned watch. A sportier, more casual-oriented member […]