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WATCHES & WONDERS: The IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Top Gun collection expands Time+Tide
IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Top Mar 30, 2022

WATCHES & WONDERS: The IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Top Gun collection expands

Editor’s Note: Watches & Wonders means a bombardment of fresh releases, so we’re offering a quick overview of each brand’s new novelties – touching on each new reference or collection and their headlining points. Stay tuned throughout the week for deeper coverage, some of which will include live pics and our hands-on perspective. But for … ContinuedThe post WATCHES & WONDERS: The IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Top Gun collection expands appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

WATCHES & WONDERS: Panerai diversifies the Submersible range Time+Tide
Panerai diversifies Mar 30, 2022

WATCHES & WONDERS: Panerai diversifies the Submersible range

Editor’s Note: Watches & Wonders means a bombardment of fresh releases, so we’re offering a quick overview of each brand’s new novelties – touching on each new reference or collection and their headlining points. Stay tuned throughout the week for deeper coverage, some of which will include live pics and our hands-on perspective. But for … ContinuedThe post WATCHES & WONDERS: Panerai diversifies the Submersible range appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Tudor Introduces the Black Bay Pro SJX Watches
Tudor Introduces Mar 30, 2022

Tudor Introduces the Black Bay Pro

Tudor finally introduces a more compact GMT watch with the Black Bay Pro, which is 39 mm and equipped with a fixed bezel. With slightly retro styling, the Black Bay Pro nonetheless has all the features that characterise Tudor, including a proprietary movement with a silicon hairspring as well as the newly-developed T-Fit micro-adjustment clasp. Initial thoughts The Black Bay Pro is what I have been hoping for, a more compact Tudor GMT. It has a 39 mm case just like the Black Bay Fifty-Eight, the perfect size in my estimation. And it has a true GMT function thanks to the MT5652 inside. It also sports a useful upgrade: the T-Fit clasp that allows for micro-adjustment on the fly, giving this a feature usually found on pricier watches. The aesthetic certainly beings to mind the Rolex Explorer II ref. 1655, which is a good thing (and it was probably designed with a knowing wink). Arguably the only downside is the case thickness. At 14.6 mm high the watch is thick, though not excessively so. It does not feel ungainly on the wrist, although the flat, vertical case sides do accentuate the height. Another only potential downside is the fixed bezel, which means the watch cannot track the third time zone that’s possible on the standard GMT. It’s not a dealbreaker for me since the third time zone functionality is something I never use on a GMT watch. Still, the Black Bay Pro is an impressive value proposition all things considered, and certainly one of the best buys of the fair. F...

WATCHES & WONDERS: Jaeger-LeCoultre go star-gazing with the Stellar Odyssey collection Time+Tide
Jaeger-LeCoultre go star-gazing Mar 30, 2022

WATCHES & WONDERS: Jaeger-LeCoultre go star-gazing with the Stellar Odyssey collection

Editor’s Note: Watches & Wonders is the biggest watch fair of the year, and, with nearly 40 brands presenting, there is a ton of ground to cover. So, for your convenience, we’re offering a quick overview of each brand’s new novelties – touching on each new reference or collection and their headlining points. Stay tuned throughout the … ContinuedThe post WATCHES & WONDERS: Jaeger-LeCoultre go star-gazing with the Stellar Odyssey collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

A. Lange & Söhne Introduces the Odysseus Titanium SJX Watches
A. Lange & Sohne Mar 30, 2022

A. Lange & Söhne Introduces the Odysseus Titanium

Debuted three years ago, the Odysseus is still a one-model collection with the Datomatic, though versions in different metals are steadily added to the family. And the latest is the most intriguing to date, because the Odysseus is entirely clad in titanium, marking a first for the German watchmaker. Initial thoughts The expansion rate of the Odysseus collection is surprisingly slow given most of its peers have quickly added complicated models such as a chronograph rather soon. But thankfully the Odysseus titanium is an interesting addition, despite being simply the result of a change in the material. It is indeed the material that distinguishes the latest, not just from its counterparts but also from the competitors. A natural choice for sports watches, titanium is nevertheless uncommon amongst luxury sports watches, especially when combined with Lange’s peerless finishing. And Lange certainly knows it’s special, because it is the first limited-edition Odysseus, ever. It’s also the priciest, costing about 40% more than the white gold model, which is exorbitant to say the least – and slightly opportunistic – but demand will doubtlessly outstrip supply. Titanium and more While the use of titanium is intruiguing, that alone is certainly not enough to make for a compelling Odysseus, just because Lange has set a high bar for watchmaking. And it doesn’t disappoint. On top of being end-to-end titanium, the finishing on the case and bracelet is also entirely different....

WATCHES & WONDERS: The Baume et Mercier Classima collection delivers a range of sporty everyday warriors Time+Tide
Mar 30, 2022

WATCHES & WONDERS: The Baume et Mercier Classima collection delivers a range of sporty everyday warriors

Editor’s Note: Watches & Wonders means a bombardment of fresh releases, so we’re offering a quick overview of each brand’s new novelties – touching on each new reference or collection and their headlining points. Stay tuned throughout the week for deeper coverage, some of which will include live pics and our hands-on perspective. But for … ContinuedThe post WATCHES & WONDERS: The Baume et Mercier Classima collection delivers a range of sporty everyday warriors appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Vacheron Constantin Introduces the Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Chronograph “Salmon” SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Introduces Mar 30, 2022

Vacheron Constantin Introduces the Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Chronograph “Salmon”

Vacheron Constantin opens its doors at Watches & Wonders 2022 with diversity of timepieces ranging from the sporty to artisanal, but its most classical offering is the Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Chronograph in a fashionable “salmon”. With the model having been launched over a decade ago and then gently upgraded in 2016, the new version is merely a facelift. But still it’s noteworthy for combining a platinum case with a “salmon” dial, both currently desirable attributes, which should help make this a strong seller (which also explains why it will only be available at boutiques). Initial thoughts The highlight of the new Traditionnelle is the dial – the only element that’s different compared to the original launched six years ago. Though less intriguing because it’s popular and common today, the new dial is nevertheless a good move that gives the model a new lease of life. While the rest of the watch apart from the dial isn’t new, it does have several features that make it stand out, most obviously the large, 43 mm case with a flat, wide bezel, a bold look for a relatively classical watch. While the large diameter does improve the legibility of the complex dial, it will not appeal to traditionalists who favour smaller cases. But the movement will certainly appeal to traditionalists. The cal. 1142 QP, which is based on the Lemania 2310, was long the movement of choice in a variety of old-school classics such as the Patek Philippe ref. 5970. Vacheron ...

A. Lange & Söhne Introduces the Richard Lange Minute Repeater SJX Watches
A. Lange & Sohne Mar 30, 2022

A. Lange & Söhne Introduces the Richard Lange Minute Repeater

A. Lange & Söhne first unveiled their first minute repeater in 2013, in the form of the Grand Complication. It took two more years for the unveiling of a simpler – yet still complex – model in the form of the Zeitwerk Minute Repeater. Finally, seven years later, Lange unveils the Richard Lange Minute Repeater – a no-frills, classical three-hander with the coveted chiming feature. Initial Impressions Surprisingly slim and impressive in terms of acoustics, the Richard Lange Minute Repeater feels like a conservative release from the brand, but one that is much needed in the brand’s lineup – especially for those looking for a classically-styled minute repeater compared to the Zeitwerk. At first glance, it feels like an odd watch relative to the rest of Lange’s catalogue – we’ve taken for granted that Lange usually designs movement that are distinctively unique, especially for complications. In fact, the minute repeater mechanism and overall layout feel like a traditional Swiss calibre, albeit one with a German aesthetic. This can be forgiven as there’s only so many ways to design a minute repeater in a classic three-hander. And the brand still innovates – the repeater has practical high-end features compared to most of its peers, such as safety mechanisms and eliminating the pauses between the hour and minute strike. But arguably the best quality of the watch is its tactile feel. It feels and sounds good on the wrist – the case is unusually thin for a La...

Panerai Introduces the Luminor Goldtech Calendario Perpetuo PAM01269 SJX Watches
Panerai Introduces Mar 30, 2022

Panerai Introduces the Luminor Goldtech Calendario Perpetuo PAM01269

Continuing its evolution from military watchmaker to one with a broader and civilian repertoire, Panerai introduces the Luminor Goldtech Calendario Perpetuo PAM01269. A variant of the minimalist Luminor perpetual calendar first unveiled last year, the PAM1269 has a dial made of tinted sapphire that reveals the concentric calendar discs underneath. And like many recent Panerai limited editions, the PAM 1269 is accompanied by an “experience”, in this case a trip to Florence (plus an NFT). The reverse of the watch includes the year and month displays, along with the power reserve indicator Initial thoughts If I were to just skim through the new watch releases of the year, I would have missed this Panerai because at a distance, it looks like any other Panerai. But it is more than that. Apart from being just a smartly conceived perpetual calendar, the watch includes an all-expenses-paid trip to Florence curated by Panerai. Given Panerai’s historical connections to Florence and its status as a leading luxury watchmaker, I imagine the trip would be filled with experiences impossible to obtain otherwise. The dial is open-worked yet highly legible Putting the trip aside, the watch itself is a marvel of clarity – a lot of information is displayed on the front and back in a manner as minimal as possible. The comprehensive display includes a second time zone and four-digit year indicator. Notably, the indicators on the front are also linear – everything is contained on a h...

HANDS ON: Take flight with the stealthy new Oris ProPilot X Calibre 400 Time+Tide
Oris ProPilot X Calibre 400 Mar 30, 2022

HANDS ON: Take flight with the stealthy new Oris ProPilot X Calibre 400

Have you ever seen a Lockheed Martin F-22 Raptor? Smooth surfaces. A low profile. Amazing cutting-edge specifications. All these things come together to create a fantastical machine. It’s the fighter plane a child from the ’70s would have considered futuristic. And that was the same general feeling I got when I spent time with this … ContinuedThe post HANDS ON: Take flight with the stealthy new Oris ProPilot X Calibre 400 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Mr Rolex reveals! The authoritative take on what’s about to drop… Time+Tide
Rolex reveals! Mar 29, 2022

Mr Rolex reveals! The authoritative take on what’s about to drop…

Rolex is the biggest watch brand on the planet and James Dowling knows more about it than practically anyone. Known as @misterrolex on Instagram, the veteran collector and journalist is the author of The Best of Time: Rolex Wristwatches and has even been referred to as a “Rolex scholar”. That’s why he’s the ideal man to … ContinuedThe post Mr Rolex reveals! The authoritative take on what’s about to drop… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

H. Moser & Cie. Introduces the Pioneer Cylindrical Tourbillon Skeleton SJX Watches
H. Moser & Cie Introduces Mar 29, 2022

H. Moser & Cie. Introduces the Pioneer Cylindrical Tourbillon Skeleton

H. Moser & Cie.’s flagship launch at Watches & Wonders 2022 is the Pioneer Cylindrical Tourbillon Skeleton. While the watch combines elements found in past Moser watches, including the trademark fume dial, it does so in an novel manner, resulting in a watch that looks and feels different from the brand’s current offerings. Initial thoughts The new Pioneer tourbillon combines familiar elements in a novel manner, resulting in an interesting watch that stands apart from the rest of Moser’s offerings. Mechanically it is a variant of the calibre found in the Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon of 2020. The inclined time display of the earlier model has been eliminated, while the movement has been skeletonised in an unusual step for the brand, which has rarely offered skeleton watches in the past. Visually, the Pioneer tourbillon is not obviously a Moser at first glance, although the sub-dial at 12 o’clock is in a smoked blue that is associated with Moser. In fact, the styling of the watch brings to mind the skeletonised watches of Jaquet Droz. Still, the Pioneer tourbillon is interesting and novel enough that its CHF79,000 price tag is fair, putting it amongst the more appealing tourbillons in this affordable(ish) price segment. A sporty tourbillon The new Pioneer was conceived as a sports watch with a tourbillon. The Pioneer case is rated to 120 m of water resistance and positioned as Moser’s elegant sports watch (as opposed to the Streamliner that is an out-and-out spo...

Sinn Introduces the EZM 1.1 S SJX Watches
Sinn Introduces Mar 29, 2022

Sinn Introduces the EZM 1.1 S

Famous for its no-nonsense “tool” watches, Sinn supplied custom-designed chronographs to the tactical unit of Germany’s federal customs agency, ZUZ for short, when the unit was established in 1997. Having reissued the watch in a larger format in 2017, the German watchmaker once again revisits the minimalist chronograph with the EZM 1.1 S conceived for the 25th anniversary of the original. Limited to 500 pieces, the EZM 1.1 S is essentially identical to the 2017 limited edition, except it has the addition of a black coating on the hardened steel case, resulting in an exceptionally high level of wear resistance. Initial thoughts The all-black finish fits the EZM 1.1 perfectly in both style and substance. As far as military-inspired instrument watches go, this is a good one – with a few caveats. But because it’s identical to the earlier EZM 1.1, it has the same drawbacks, namely size and weight, both of which are slightly excessive. While the original EZM 1 designed for the ZUZ was compact and lightweight, the EZM 1.1 feels like a chunky, heavy watch on the wrist. At about US$5,500, the EZM 1.1 S is relatively affordable in absolute terms, but fairly pricey for a chronograph powered by Valjoux 7750, albeit one modified to have a central elapsed minutes. Sinn tech A large part of the Sinn proposition is its proprietary technology that boosts durability. Being one of the brand’s priciest watches, the EZM 1.1 S boasts almost all of the brand’s innovations, starti...

WATCHES & WONDERS: The H. Moser & Cie. Pioneer Cylindrical Tourbillon Skeleton Time+Tide
H. Moser & Cie Pioneer Cylindrical Mar 29, 2022

WATCHES & WONDERS: The H. Moser & Cie. Pioneer Cylindrical Tourbillon Skeleton

Editor’s Note: Watches & Wonders is the biggest watch fair of the year and, with nearly 40 brands presenting, there is a ton of ground to cover. So, for your convenience, we’re offering a quick overview of each brand’s new novelties – touching on each new reference or collection and their headlining points. Stay tuned throughout the … ContinuedThe post WATCHES & WONDERS: The H. Moser & Cie. Pioneer Cylindrical Tourbillon Skeleton appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.