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Results for Above the Date Window

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Above the Date Window: Steve McQueen's Monaco and What Sotheby's Catalogues Really Tell You

How a sliver of dial real estate above the date window decodes provenance on every screen-worn Heuer Monaco that has passed through Sotheby's and Phillips.

Patek Philippe Introduces the Ref. 5470P 1/10th of a Second Chronograph SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Introduces Apr 6, 2022

Patek Philippe Introduces the Ref. 5470P 1/10th of a Second Chronograph

Just after the curtain fell on Watches & Wonders 2022 – on the day after the fair closed in fact – Patek Philippe unveils one of its technical highlights for the year, the 1/10th of a Second Monopusher Chronograph ref. 5470P-001. In a first for the Geneva watchmaker, the chronograph is equipped with a high-frequency balance that beats at 36,000 vibrations per hour, or 5 Hz. The high-beat movement results in a lighting seconds hand that completes one revolution around the dial every 12 seconds, allowing the chronograph to precisely record elapsed times with a resolution of 1/10ths of a second (barring user error). This lightning seconds hand runs in tandem with the regular chronograph seconds hand, resulting in an unusual sight on the dial when the chronograph is running. Initial thoughts While lightning seconds chronographs have been done before, it’s surprising to see a traditionalist brand such as Patek Philippe have a go at the complication. The function is often associated with brands with a sporty, contemporary aesthetic like TAG Heuer and Zenith. In terms of aesthetics, the ref. 5470P is another example of the brand continuing to move towards a more modern, striking style, even for otherwise classical models. But under the hood is where it shines. Despite the seemingly simple idea of tacking on an additional gear train for the 1/10th of a second hand, the movement inside underwent a deceptively complex modification. And in typical Patek Philippe fashion, the co...

Audemars Piguet Unveils the Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Extra-Thin RD#3 SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Unveils Apr 6, 2022

Audemars Piguet Unveils the Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Extra-Thin RD#3

Having unveiled the first all-new Royal Oak “Jumbo” ref. 16202 earlier this year to mark the model’s 40th anniversary, Audemars Piguet has now taken the covers off the first “Jumbo” tourbillon. Possible thanks to the newly developed movement found in the ref. 16202, the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Extra-Thin RD#3 has exactly the same dimensions, but also boasts a flying tourbillon. Initial thoughts Recent Royal Oak tourbillons were bulky compared to the svelte time-and-date “Jumbo”, largely because they utilised movements developed for use across Audemars Piguet’s range of watches. Last year’s Royal Oak automatic tourbillon, for instance, was 41 mm in diameter and shares the same movement as the Code 11.59 tourbillon. In contrast the new “Jumbo” tourbillon is equipped with a movement conceived specifically for the model, one that allows the case to retain the dimensions of the original Royal Oak ref. 5402 of 1972. As a result, the “Jumbo” tourbillon is surely an appealing watch, because the lines and proportions of the original Royal Oak are practically ideal. Granted, the addition of the tourbillon is a matter of taste – you may or may not like the aperture on the dial that reveals the regulator. I like the look, with one caveat: I wish the “AP” emblem was retained on the dial. “Jumbo” but elegant The new tourbillon is essentially the ref. 16202 with the addition of a tourbillon regulator. It has exactly th...

MICRO MONDAYS: The Maen Manhattan 37 delivers an integrated-bracelet watch at a bafflingly great price Time+Tide
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak have gone Apr 4, 2022

MICRO MONDAYS: The Maen Manhattan 37 delivers an integrated-bracelet watch at a bafflingly great price

In case you haven’t received the memo, stainless-steel, integrated-bracelet watches are white-hot. Scratch that: more like a Texas-sized asteroid flying straight into the centre of the sun-hot. Over the past several years, models like the Patek Philippe Nautilus and Audemars Piguet Royal Oak have gone from finely crafted-yet-anachronistic curiosities of ‘70s watch history, to the … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The Maen Manhattan 37 delivers an integrated-bracelet watch at a bafflingly great price appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Model Thin: Piaget Tribute To The Altiplano Ultimate Concept Watch Quill & Pad
Piaget Tribute Apr 3, 2022

Model Thin: Piaget Tribute To The Altiplano Ultimate Concept Watch

Piaget's Altiplano Ultimate Concept unique piece introduced at Watches and Wonders 2022 is nothing if not contemporary in its construction, but it is also an ode to history, telling the story of the Altiplano Ultimate Concept in notable detail, the watch that was for several years the thinnest mechanical in the world. Nancy Olson takes a look at this world record-setting ultra-thin marvel.

Ulysse Nardin Introduces the Freak S SJX Watches
Ulysse Nardin Introduces Apr 2, 2022

Ulysse Nardin Introduces the Freak S

Perhaps a sleeper hit of Watches & Wonders 2022, the Ulysse Nardin Freak S is an intriguing evolution of the brand’s trademark watch that makes its debut just as Ulysse Nardin has become an independent brand. The Freak S is equipped with twin balance wheels, but mounted on a central carousel as is de rigueur for a Freak. Initial thoughts The first twin-balance watch from Ulysse Nardin, the Freak S is perhaps the coolest iteration of the model since its inception in 2001. It has come a long way since the original, having been obviously enhanced in both style and performance. While its most obvious feature are the double balances, the Freak S also includes several details that enthusiasts will appreciate. For starters, it is a purebred Freak. Like the original, it does without a conventional dial, hands, and crown. In comparison, some of the more recent Freaks are more conventional in their execution. Thanks to double balances linked by a differential, the carousel is more striking than ever, while promising improved timekeeping. At the same time, the brand’s proprietary “Grinder” system means the Freak S is self-winding, eliminating the hassle of manually winding the huge mainspring via the notched back. Twin balances with a differential The overarching theme of a Freak is a movement that stands out, literally. The movement sits on three levels – carousel, barrel, and winding system, all arranged one over the other. Most of the movement, including the oscillat...

Bell & Ross Introduces the BR 03-94 Multimeter SJX Watches
Bell & Ross Introduces Apr 2, 2022

Bell & Ross Introduces the BR 03-94 Multimeter

Bell & Ross is back with another square instrument watch in black ceramic, but this time taking a sharp turn away from its traditional emphasis on no-nonsense, military-inspired style. Instantly different from the typical B&R; offering, the BR 03-94 Multimeter prioritises colours and shapes, sacrificing the legibility in favour of style – which is not actually a bad thing. Initial thoughts The BR 03-94 Multimeter is ostensibly an instrument. The multi-scale dial can measure heart rate, respirations, or speed of travel for three forms of locomotion. But that’s how it works in theory. It’s filled with an overload of colours, letters, and numbers, providing the wearer with five different scales to go with the chronograph, including three types of tachymetric scales, one each for running, biking, and driving. Admittedly all that is more for aesthetic effect that practical usage. The dial isn’t the easiest to read, especially when driving or biking, but it certainly looks cool. It’s strikingly different from the usual military-inspired look of B&R;, which can be monotonous. Multi-scale The various scales on the dial are highlighted in different colours – orange, bottle green, white, pale green and forest green. And each scale is accompanied by its own base and unit indicator, so the wearer can use the watch as a measuring device when the scale is read in tandem with the running chronograph seconds hand. While the look is poles apart from the fighter jet instrument o...

VIDEO: IWC boss Chris Grainger-Herr is the watch world’s most energetic man Time+Tide
IWC boss Chris Grainger-Herr Apr 2, 2022

VIDEO: IWC boss Chris Grainger-Herr is the watch world’s most energetic man

“Look how fast Chris Grainger-Herr walks!” Andrew exclaims at one point in this video as he follows the IWC boss into his booth. It’s a throwaway line but it’s actually instructive, because Chris would appear to be the watch world’s most energetic man. His exploits yesterday offer the perfect example. One moment he’s casually welcoming … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: IWC boss Chris Grainger-Herr is the watch world’s most energetic man appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Krug Champagne: A Story Of Krugists Earning Five Cases Per Year Every Year For The Rest Of One’s Life And Wine Tasting Like “. . . Angels Have Descended From Heaven” – Reprise Quill & Pad
Apr 2, 2022

Krug Champagne: A Story Of Krugists Earning Five Cases Per Year Every Year For The Rest Of One’s Life And Wine Tasting Like “. . . Angels Have Descended From Heaven” – Reprise

Anyone who expresses even so much as a fleeting interest in great wine will soon come across Krug, for many the greatest champagne of all. There are champagne lovers and then there are devotees of Krug: Krugists. Ken Gargett doubts that any other champagne, or wine, has a word to designate its adoring fans. Here he explains why.

F.P. Journe Revives the Vagabondage I – with a Few Tweaks SJX Watches
F.P. Journe Revives Apr 1, 2022

F.P. Journe Revives the Vagabondage I – with a Few Tweaks

One of the most unusual amongst F.P. Journe’s offerings, the Vagabondage I was the first of a trio that combined a tortue case with an unconventional time display, along with dials that feature no branding at all. Launched in 2004 and long gone from the brand’s catalogue, the Vagabondage I now makes a return with a new case, dial, and movement – all of which are improved over the original. Initial thoughts The original Vagabondage I was interesting because of its wandering, jumping hour display, along with the central balance wheel visible on the dial. Eighteen years later the new Vagabondage I is interesting for the same reason, because it is essentially the same watch. While the new Vagabondage I has been updated in several ways, ranging from a larger case to a new movement, it retains the familiar look. That also means it looks like a watch from the early 2000s with a slightly dated air compared to most wandering hours on the market today. But that’s exactly what makes it cool. It is an old idea but one that has been improved in just the right ways. Most important amongst them is the case, which wider and longer than the original, giving it dimensions almost identical to the Vagabondage II and III. It still remains elegant and wearable, but the new case size is more appealing than that of the original, which is a little too small. Inching forward Fans of the brand will be familiar with the story of the Vagabondage, but here’s a quick recap: it start with a on...

Rolex Introduces the GMT-Master II “Left Handed” Ref. 126720VTNR SJX Watches
Rolex Introduces Mar 31, 2022

Rolex Introduces the GMT-Master II “Left Handed” Ref. 126720VTNR

One of the biggest surprises from Rolex at Watches & Wonders 2022 is the GMT-Master II ref. 126720VTNR – the first contemporary, regular-production Rolex with a left-handed or “destro” crown. And just to make it even more different, it is equipped with the brand’s first-ever green-and-black bezel. Initial thoughts A brand that has preserved the signature style of watches for decades, Rolex is all about incremental improvements that are often evident only in the details. That’s exactly the case with the new GMT-Master II, which retains the trademark GMT aesthetic but is rather different. In fact, it is very different, which makes it polarising – you either like it or you don’t. Initially the left-handed crown does look awkward on the left wrist; it feels off somehow. But very quickly you get used to it and it is surprisingly cool. The new ref. 126710VTNR is priced about US$550 more than its counterparts with a conventionally located crown. According to Rolex, the price difference does not result from the rejigged crown position but rather the changes to the testing equipment necessary to accommodate the new crown position. Destro Most obvious is the crown at nine o’clock, which is accompanied by a repositioned date window. It is ostensibly for the left-handed, but will surely find fans amongst right-handers who want something unusual. It is intriguing, just because it’s so different from the rest of the brand’s offering (though Rolex’s sister compan...

VIDEO: The slinky brilliance of the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Ultra – the thinnest mechanical watch of all time Time+Tide
Bulgari Octo Finissimo Ultra – Mar 31, 2022

VIDEO: The slinky brilliance of the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Ultra – the thinnest mechanical watch of all time

You’ve probably seen by now that the watch that keeps breaking records has just broken another, becoming the indisputably thinnest mechanical watch of all time. The Bulgari Octo Finissimo Ultra is the logical successor to that title considering Bulgari’s train of innovation, but the most exciting prospect is that they don’t seem to be settling … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The slinky brilliance of the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Ultra – the thinnest mechanical watch of all time appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.