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Longines Introduces a Conquest Heritage Limited Edition for the Year of the Snake Worn & Wound
Longines Introduces Jan 6, 2025

Longines Introduces a Conquest Heritage Limited Edition for the Year of the Snake

Over the holiday break, I frequented the local Chinese restaurant not once, not twice, but three times. And each time, before my General Tso was brought to the table, I would pore over the paper placemat, going to the list of everyone’s birth year in my head. Oh, he’s definitely a horse, I’d think. Her? A dragon…eh, I don’t see it. I, myself, am a Sheep, which makes sense considering I’m pretty much useless and wear a lot of wool. But the real star of the show is the Snake. Representing wisdom, rebirth, and vitality – I’m cautiously optimistic about what 2025 may bring for us. And that optimism is only fortified by the string of new watches that are coming from Longines right out of the gate for the New Year. Their latest limited-edition, a Conquest Heritage model designed to honor the Chinese zodiac, is a bold, thoughtful design, and a welcome addition to this year’s Lunar New Year offerings from some of our favorite brands.  What’s noticeable first about this new edition to the Conquest Heritage line-up is the sunray gradient dial that’s as eye-catching as it is unique. Being a traditional color in the Chinese New Year tradition, red seems a fitting choice that also helps to set this specific reference apart from the more neutral dial colors of the line, which is all beige, black, and silvers. The gradient is a particularly smart choice, giving the lumed gold indices room to shine, while not being too vibrant against the stainless steel case. On th...

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Sunday Morning Showdown: Rolex GMT-Master II 126710GRNR Vs. 116710LN Fratello
Rolex GMT-Master II 126710GRNR Vs Jan 5, 2025

Sunday Morning Showdown: Rolex GMT-Master II 126710GRNR Vs. 116710LN

Welcome to the first Sunday Morning Showdown of 2025! We hope you have enjoyed the holidays and are ready for our first battle of the new year. So make yourself a nice warm cup of coffee, and let’s get rolling! Today, we’ll play a game called Find the Differences. OK, although that is a joke, […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Rolex GMT-Master II 126710GRNR Vs. 116710LN to read the full article.

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Haute-Rive Honoris 1 Reviewed by Tim Mosso: Impressive 1,000-hour Power Reserve plus Flying Tourbillon Quill & Pad
Oris 1 Reviewed Jan 4, 2025

Haute-Rive Honoris 1 Reviewed by Tim Mosso: Impressive 1,000-hour Power Reserve plus Flying Tourbillon

While Tim Mosso has seen watches with long power reserves, huge power reserves, and absurd power reserves, the result always looked as outwardly awkward as it was technically adept. Every watch he has encountered with a power reserve beyond ten days was massive. But the Haute-Rive Honoris 1 is a compact marvel through clever design.

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A Look Back At Vincent’s Top 20 Microbrand Watches Of 2024 Fratello
Jan 4, 2025

A Look Back At Vincent’s Top 20 Microbrand Watches Of 2024

As someone who solely writes about watches from micro/independent brands, I’m pleased to share my list of their 20 best releases of 2024. And there is a lot to talk about, of course. The list below is simply organized in alphabetical order by the brand name. All watches listed are ones I’ve handled in the […] Visit A Look Back At Vincent’s Top 20 Microbrand Watches Of 2024 to read the full article.

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Do Analog-Digital Watches Give You The Best Of Both Worlds? Fratello
Jan 4, 2025

Do Analog-Digital Watches Give You The Best Of Both Worlds?

Analog-digital watches are making a comeback. Here are a few fantastic examples of compelling designs from popular brands to consider. The aesthetically pleasing design of an analog watch and the added functionality of a digital complication make a strong case for including analog-digital watches in any enthusiast’s collection. Let’s take a look. When I say […] Visit Do Analog-Digital Watches Give You The Best Of Both Worlds? to read the full article.

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Breguet Rings in the Year of the Snake with a Stunning Limited Edition Worn & Wound
Breguet Rings Jan 3, 2025

Breguet Rings in the Year of the Snake with a Stunning Limited Edition

Well folks, January is here, and that can really only mean one thing when it comes to new watch releases: we are about to be bombarded with Lunar New Year limited editions. They started to trickle out just before things began to shut down for the holidays, and by the time I dared to sign into my work email for the first time in 2025, press releases from brands of all kinds were waiting for me, heralding the launch of new watches to celebrate the Year of the Snake. This has been a tradition for as long as I’ve paid attention to watch media, and probably a whole lot longer. In some ways, I think we all have to admit, it’s quite cynical. It’s an easy way for brands to (hopefully) cash in as the growing Chinese luxury watch market looks for ways to mark a major point on their calendar. But the watches themselves, quite often, are really quite good, often living near the higher end of a brand’s catalog, serving as an example of particular craft techniques. That’s certainly the case with this year’s entry from Breguet, Breguet Classique 7145 Lunar New Year 2025, a watch that showcases the brand’s signature guilloche work, as well engraving and miniature painting techniques.  The Classique 7145 Lunar New Year 2025 starts with a simple, 40mm rose gold case, with fluting along the case walls, another signature Breguet design characteristic. While 40mm is on the large side for a modern dress watch, it makes sense in a watch like this as a way to properly showcase the ...

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Hands-on – The Captivating Beauty of the De Bethune DB28XP Steel Wheels Tourbillon Monochrome
De Bethune DB28XP Steel Wheels Tourbillon Jan 3, 2025

Hands-on – The Captivating Beauty of the De Bethune DB28XP Steel Wheels Tourbillon

Denis Flageollet, master watchmaker and the “mad genius” behind De Bethune’s creations, is passionate about the “great patrimony of classical watchmaking” and resolved to contribute calibres “worthy of the 21st century” (32 calibres to date). While many associate De Bethune with sleek futuristic vessels, Flageollet’s attention to classical finishings and pursuit of chronometric excellence reflect […]

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Longines’ High-Frequency Chronometer Gets a Carbon Composite Case SJX Watches
Longines High-Frequency Chronometer Gets Jan 3, 2025

Longines’ High-Frequency Chronometer Gets a Carbon Composite Case

Arguably under appreciated, the original Ultra-Chron High-Beat Diver was a precision timekeeper with a high-frequency movement, the L.836.6. With the high-spec movement, the watch was appealing, albeit pricey by Longines’ standards. Now the brand has given the model an upgrade with the Ultra-Chron Carbon. The Ultra-Chron Carbon retains the familiar cushion-shaped case, but now in carbon composite, giving it lightness and a modern aesthetic that contrasts well with the retro, 1970s origins of the design. Initial thoughts The Ultra-Chron Carbon stands out for its blend of an advanced, industrial movement, composite materials technology (undoubtedly thanks to the Swatch Group’s vast industrial base), and a vintage-inspired aesthetic. Although it’s simply a modest variation of an existing model, the new Ultra-Chron marks the brand’s first venture into non-traditional case materials in the modern day. Priced at US$4,900, the Ultra-Chron Carbon commands a notably higher price than its stainless steel counterpart. While it does offer technical advantages - such as the carbon composite case and a high-frequency (5 Hz) movement - the watch still feels a little expensive relative to alternatives, especially since Longines is primarily a brand that competes in a lower price range. More broadly, the Ultra-Chron Carbon is not a like-for-like vintage remake, which is a good thing. But Longines can arguably do more with its movements. Given that the brand’s enthusiast-orien...

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In-Depth Retrospective: A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk “Luminous” SJX Watches
Casio ns I was already Jan 3, 2025

In-Depth Retrospective: A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk “Luminous”

I was there when the Zeitwerk “Luminous” was launched at SIHH in January 2010, just a few months after the launch of the original Zeitwerk in May 2009. To say that I was impressed with the Zeitwerk “Luminous” when I first saw it that year is an understatement. Already the original Zeitwerk was, and is, a landmark in contemporary watchmaking. A luminous version, well, what could be better? Even though the most complicated Lange debuted that year was the Tourbograph Honeygold “Homage to F. A. Lange” for the 165th anniversary (an odd milestone to celebrate but that’s another story), the glow-in-the-dark Zeitwerk was the star. Enough of a star that Johann Rupert, the controlling shareholder of Richemont, has been spotted wearing one on several occasions. I was already a longtime fan of the brand, but that Zeitwerk “Luminous” was astonishing. Even though it was, strictly speaking, merely a cosmetic variation, the Zeitwerk “Luminous” was cool – and that was a big deal for a brand like Lange. I wrote this about the watch at SIHH 2010: “[It] is absolutely unconventional… even avant-garde… During the day this has a dark, almost brooding look, but at night it glows tenaciously… This avant-garde PVD Lange is utterly cool (yes, “Lange” and “cool” in the same sentence). It is a tad gimmicky, but the lesson is this: gimmicks are forgiven if a watch is truly high quality and innovative.” I wasn’t the only one who thought that way, because thoug...

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New Seiko x Shohei Ohtani Limited Edition Prospex GMT Divers For 2025 Teddy Baldassarre
Seiko Jan 2, 2025

New Seiko x Shohei Ohtani Limited Edition Prospex GMT Divers For 2025

Just announced by Seiko is a pair of limited-edition Prospex watches done in collaboration with Los Angeles Dodgers phenomenon Shohei Ohtani. The SBEJ023 and SBEJ025 are both takes on the 1968 Heritage Diver’s GMT, which was released back in 2023 as the first mechanical GMT in the Prospex collection. These two diver GMT watches will come in the iconic Dodger Blue colorway, with the SBEJ023 having a blue bezel with black dial and the SBEJ025 sporting a blue bezel with contrasting white dial. While not totally on theme here, I recall Ohtani wore a Grand Seiko SBGJ217 back in 2023 when he signed with the Dodgers. For a little context, these aren’t the first Seiko watches done in collaboration with Ohtani. The first was the Prospex Diver SBDC191, which came in out in 2023, while he still played for L.A.'s other baseball team, the Angels of the American League. That watch had the red seconds hand and dial text as well as Ohtani’s signature on the clasp. These new watches have the Ohtani’s number 17 highlighted in red on the GMT rehaut and his signature engraved on the bracelet clasp. The SBEJ023 and SBEJ025 share the same basics as the standard 1968 Heritage Diver’s GMT, recognizable for its vintage-inspired, Marine Master-esque design. Measuring 42mm wide, 12.9mm thick, and with a 48.6mm lug-to-lug measurement, these watches are water-resistant to 200 meters and boast a very well-made ceramic bezel. The real GMT nerds will be a little disappointed with the lack of ...

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Hands-On: the Doxa Sub 200T Worn & Wound
Doxa Sub 200T Doxa Doxa Jan 2, 2025

Hands-On: the Doxa Sub 200T

Doxa, Doxa, Doxa. There’s a lot about the current incarnation of the brand to like and a lot that leaves us enthusiasts questioning what’s going on and why. Which honestly, is fine. It’s cool to see a brand experiment and find out what works for them, but a lot of people seem to expect a straightforward dive watch experience from the brand that draws from its strong history rooted in adventure and aquatic exploration. While I had some strong opinions, I did not “fill in the vacuum with my no-holds-barred opinion” (read Meg’s take on the Doxa Sub 200T Diamonds, it’s a good one). Clearly, the diamond-encrusted $9,400 take on this watch is not in my wheelhouse. But what about the $1,590 version that captures all of the classic Doxa charm in an extremely well-wearing package? It seems to have been overshadowed as of late by the diamond-laden version, but hopefully this hands-on can bring it back into focus a bit.  While I’m not a huge Clive Cussler fan (never read anything by the guy), I don’t have any Jacques Cousteau documentaries queued up on my Youtube, and most of my time spent in the ocean is standing on the shore in knee-deep water trying to catch a striped bass at the expense of sleep, I do appreciate a good dive watch. I used to own a Doxa Sub 200, which I really loved and still miss from time to time. Doxa can make a heck of a watch and they always nail the wearability factor in the 200 lineup. Let’s take a look at what makes this diver an excell...

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W Worn & Wound
Worn & Wound
Jan 2, 2025

Lookbook: Get On Track with the Cadola Lydden Hill

Many of the automotive-inspired watches we love as enthusiasts often walk the line of being just out of reach. This can be due to pricing, styling, or branding. Cadola has set out to change all that, making approachable auto adjacent designs for the next era of enthusiasts. Their design language is fashionable, their branding is accessible, and most importantly their pricing is reasonable. This means that the rising generation of both racing and watch fans has a new alternative to turn toward in order to scratch their auto-inspo itch. The post Lookbook: Get On Track with the Cadola Lydden Hill appeared first on Worn & Wound.

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We See Why The Raymond Weil Millesime Is Award Winning WatchAdvice
Raymond Weil Millesime Jan 2, 2025

We See Why The Raymond Weil Millesime Is Award Winning

In this revisited article we originally published early in 2024, we take a look at the (then) new Raymond Weil Millesime with Mario going hands on with the Challenge Watch Award Winning piece from 2023’s GPHG. Originally published April 22nd, 2024 What We Love: Every design element feels exceptionally thought-out Appears larger than on paper, but wears comfortably and true to size A spec & design monster for the price point What We Don’t: Some design elements feel slightly unnecessary Lack of a date can bug some people Would have liked a more finished movement Overall Rating: 8.75/10 Value for Money: 8/10 Wearability: 9/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 9/10 After the Piaget Polo Date Review, Chamath opened the floor to me, asking what other watches I wanted to review. Unlike last time, I didn’t jump straight into the annals of priceless and inaccessible haute horlogerie. With my newfound experience in reviewing timepieces, it felt right not to give him a heart attack this time. So, instead of asking for an MB&F; or an Urwerk, I gleefully drafted a shortlist of five timepieces to review. There wasn’t a real theme, rhyme or reason with the pieces I requested. I chose pieces not based on brand, price or reputation, but on what intrigued me the most horologically. It was hard to restrict myself to five, (There are so many I love!) but my feeble mind would have exploded before I managed to compile everything I wanted to see. Enter Geneva brand Raymond Weil – a relat...

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The Seiko Power Design Project Returns in 2025 SJX Watches
Seiko Power Design Project Returns Jan 2, 2025

The Seiko Power Design Project Returns in 2025

Building on the success of the Power Design Project: Incredibly Specialized Watches, an annual design-focused exhibition inaugurated last year, Seiko has just opened the 2025 event Tokyo’s trendy Harajuku district. Open from now till February 16, 2025, this year’s exhibition delves further into combining watchmaking and design in innovative and whimsical ways to create concept watches that are distinct from the brand’s conventional offerings. Amongst the watches designed by six of Seiko’s designers is one conceived for the perfect boiled egg, and even a watch for a vampire that distinguishes between day and night. The “Vampire” watch, distinguished by its red dial and gemstone-accented bezel Among the exhibition’s other notable creations is a “tool watch” for a ninja. Entirely in black, this tells the time in a tactile manner. It’s even paired with a wrap-around strap inspired by the traditional Japanese archery glove. Featuring an all-black aesthetic that evokes the stealth of a ninja. Power Design Project: Incredibly Specialized Watches 2 takes place from December 20, 2024 to February 16, 2025, at Seiko Seed, an exhibition space owned by the watchmaker. It’s open to the public from 11:00 am-8:00 pm daily (with the last admission at 7:45 pm). Admission is free. Seiko Seed Harajuku 1-14-30 Jingumae Shibuya-ku, Tokyo For more, visit seiko-design.com.  

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