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Urwerk Marks 10 Years of the EMC with the SR-71 SJX Watches
Urwerk Marks 10 Years Aug 21, 2024

Urwerk Marks 10 Years of the EMC with the SR-71

Urwerk’s highly technical and unique approach to watchmaking is captured in the EMC SR-71, a limited edition of 10 pieces to mark the 10th anniversary of a model that has a built-in user-regulation device. This edition boasts a special and tangible link to military aviation with a crank handle from alloy retrieved from the fuselage of an SR-71 “Blackbird”, the famous Cold War-era, supersonic spy plane. Initial thoughts Although sci-fi and even extravagant in terms of mechanics, materials, and shapes, Urwerk timepiece have a certain hyper-functional, instrument-like quality to them. Trademark features like the “oil change” indicator make its watches feel like actual pieces of machinery. The original EMC was launched in 2014 as an endeavour in blending traditional watchmaking with contemporary electronics and micro computing technology. Though advanced, the EMC complication is esoteric and never really gained traction. However, for a specific niche of watch geeks and nerds, the EMC is an intriguing and original idea. The bit of an SR-71 “Blackbird” in the watch adds to the geeky appeal without being too gimmicky. The EMC is not the only watch with a piece of the SR-71 in it – in fact other such watches are mostly far less expensive – but it is certainly the most advanced and innovative. The Blackbird connection Fundamentally identical in terms of function and mechanics, the EMC SR-71 is special because it features components made from an alloy recast from t...

Hands-On With The Oris Aquis Great Barrier Reef IV WatchAdvice
Oris Aquis Great Barrier Reef Aug 21, 2024

Hands-On With The Oris Aquis Great Barrier Reef IV

In this review, I get a hold of the fourth Aquis rendition commemorating one of Australia’s greatest natural wonders! But is it truly a standout? Let’s find out! What We Love: Dial is unique yet elegant and possibly timeless Wears extremely well Supremely capable movement for the price point What We Don’t: Uniquely coloured dials are always a point of caution Can it come in any smaller sizes? The price point is contentious Overall Rating: 8.6/10 Value for Money: 7.5/10 Wearability: 9/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 9/10 Everyone loves a bit of independence in their lives. Having your own slice of agency signals freedom to do whatever you please – like buying watches, for example – without having to worry too much about the consequences.  But, of course, it’s not that simple. Agency, and by association freedom, can be an elusive thing, which is why we oftentimes find ourselves getting attached to characters, products and brands associated with the idea of finding freedom. Not everyone can break the Matrix like Neo, ‘Just Do It’ like Nike or beat up their boss like Stone Cold Steve Austin, so we live vicariously through those that operate, or are perceived to be operating, on an independent level. In the watch industry, Oris is one of the finest examples of freedom and independence in watchmaking. Having followed their slogan to “Go Their Own Way” since 1904, their perception of freedom is conveyed through their dedication to independent design, techn...

Introducing – The Complex Urwerk EMC Gets A Stealthy SR-71 ‘Blackbird’ Makeover Monochrome
Urwerk EMC Gets Aug 21, 2024

Introducing – The Complex Urwerk EMC Gets A Stealthy SR-71 ‘Blackbird’ Makeover

Flying higher, longer and faster than any aircraft that came before it, the Lockheed SR-71 Blackbird is a legendary marvel of engineering. So much so, that it still inspires people to this day. People like Martin Frei and Felix Baumgartner, the gifted duo behind the hyper-technical independent watchmaker Urwerk. Their latest is the EMC SR-71, […]

Microbrands vs. Independent Watchmakers: The Rise of (Relatively Affordable) Microbrands Quill & Pad
Aug 21, 2024

Microbrands vs. Independent Watchmakers: The Rise of (Relatively Affordable) Microbrands

In recent years, several factors have come together resulting in the exponential rise of microbrand watches. This new microbrand wave is one of the biggest developments in the broader watch market. I would mention here that not all microbrands are equal. There are many watches out there that, to be honest, are not worth your time. However, some microbrands are getting it right as Raman Kalra highlights here.

Ming Introduces the Latest Watch from their Special Projects Cave, the Solid Gold 20.01 Series 3 Worn & Wound
Ming Aug 20, 2024

Ming Introduces the Latest Watch from their Special Projects Cave, the Solid Gold 20.01 Series 3

Ming is a brand that tends to elicit strong reactions from enthusiasts. They are certainly not to everyone’s taste, but those who love the brand really love the brand and are among the most enthusiastic collectors I’ve encountered in the watch world. I’ll be honest, Ming’s house aesthetic is typically not for me, personally, but I’ve gained a tremendous amount of respect for the brand as I’ve had a chance to talk to more owners about they find these watches so interesting. A big part of it, as it always seems to be, is the community built around that ownership experience. That community reveals itself in a public way via Ming’s Special Project’s Cave, a kind of skunk-works segment of the brand that is free to experiment as the brand develops new technologies. As Ming always points out when they release a watch from the Cave, the process always involves input from their customers, so you could think of the watches in this series as a real reflection of the brand’s owners. If that’s the case, their latest creation, the 20.01 Series 3, kind of proves my point about the vibrancy of the Ming community.  At a high level, the 20.01 Series 3 is a precious metal chronograph utilizing the excellent AgenGraphe movement by Agenhor. But when you get closer (and closer) you realize that the 20.03 is perhaps the brand’s most avant-garde creation yet, which is saying something considering some of the projects that have come out of the Special Projects Cave to this p...

Our Favorite Pilot And Aviation Style Watches Under For $5,000 Worn & Wound
Aug 20, 2024

Our Favorite Pilot And Aviation Style Watches Under For $5,000

Pilot-style watches represent one of the most popular segments within the industry. Introduced at the dawn of aviation in the early twentieth century, pilot’s watches are the original tool watches. They range from simple, time-only designs to complication-filled behemoths with altimeters and slide rules. From heritage-inspired reissues to cutting-edge technology, there’s a pilot watch to suit every style and budget. They inspire a sense of adventure into the unknown, their function-over-form nature, and often rugged good looks, making them ideal for daily wear. Without further ado, here are fifteen of our favorite pilot-style watches under $5,000. The post Our Favorite Pilot And Aviation Style Watches Under For $5,000 appeared first on Worn & Wound.

Introducing – The New MING 20.01 Series 3 with a Fused Borosilicate Dial and an Agengraphe Movement Monochrome
Ming Aug 20, 2024

Introducing – The New MING 20.01 Series 3 with a Fused Borosilicate Dial and an Agengraphe Movement

Founded in 2017 by a group of enthusiasts led by Ming Thein, the Swiss-Malay watch company MING has evolved from a small horological venture into one of the most intriguing independent watchmakers of our time. In 2021, MING introduced the Special Projects Cave, an initiative to foster customer involvement in creating experimental watches while advancing […]

In Depth: Patek Philippe Annual Calendar Travel Time Ref. 5326G SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Annual Calendar Travel Time Aug 20, 2024

In Depth: Patek Philippe Annual Calendar Travel Time Ref. 5326G

The Annual Calendar Travel Time Ref. 5326G is one of Patek Philippe’s most practical watches in the “Compilations” family because it combines two useful functions: a calendar that needs setting only once every four years along with a dual time zone display with double day-night indicators. Smartly constructed such that the calendar indicators move in sync with the local time hand, the ref. 5326G has a vintage-toned aesthetic on a smartly detailed dial, presented in an elaborately decorated case. All of that, however, is packaged with a hefty price tag. Initial thoughts Like its sibling the Calatrava ref. 5226G, the ref. 5326G captures Patek Philippe’s latest generation aesthetic, which is not just about design, but fancy execution of the dial and case. Compared to equivalent models from before, the ref. 5326G takes a more elaborate approach to the habillage, with the hobnailed case flanks being an example. It does, however, still feel like a Patek Philippe. Though it’s relatively large at 41 mm, the case is thin at just over 11 mm, giving the watch an elegant, if wide, profile. The ref. 5326G also stands out for having a movement from the 31-260 family of large calibres that represent the latest and greatest in self-winding Patek Philippe movements. In fact, it’s one of only five references with a 31-260 movement. The cal. 31-260 is unquestionably the most sophisticated of Patek Philippe’s automatic movements, and also the most appealing in terms of design wi...

W Worn & Wound
Worn & Wound
Aug 19, 2024

Tool/Kit: Cycling in Style with Evan Perrone and the Forstner Pilot Ref. F-6B/346

Cycling and watches have more in common than just gears. These enthusiast hobbies also share a mindset and a style that seem to go hand in hand. In this edition of Tool/Kit, our pal Evan Perrone, a professional in the cycling industry, takes Forstner’s new Pilot Ref. F-6B/346 for a spin and talks to us about cycling and traveling on time and in style. Hey Evan! Thanks for being the subject of a Tool/Kit for us. Can you tell us and our audience a little bit about yourself? Where are you based? What do you do for a living? What are your hobbies? Hi I’m Evan Perrone, so glad to be chatting with you today. I’m a native Pittsburgher, born and raised, and that’s where I reside now. My current title is Senior Account Manager and Special Projects. I oversee account business in four states as well as sit on several category committees. These committees help shape future Cannondale’s bicycles and how they come to market. I’ve been with Cannonade for over 4 years now. I love it. I’ve been in the cycling industry in some semblance or another since 2003 and would consider myself an industry veteran. My hobbies do, of course, include cycling, but Worn & Wound has been instrumental in discovering my passion for and interest in watches. I also like anything with wheels, so that includes cars and motorcycles, including vintage varieties… I’m all about it. The post Tool/Kit: Cycling in Style with Evan Perrone and the Forstner Pilot Ref. F-6B/346 appeared first on Worn & Wo...

Hands-on – Meet the Tissot PRX Automatic Chronograph Green, Your Perfect Glamping Companion. Monochrome
Tissot PRX Automatic Chronograph Green Aug 19, 2024

Hands-on – Meet the Tissot PRX Automatic Chronograph Green, Your Perfect Glamping Companion.

The PRX collection continues to capture attention, with Tissot consistently introducing cool new designs that resonate with consumers. This series has become popular for its competitive pricing, appealing aesthetics, and solid performance features. Drawing inspiration from Tissot’s 1978 Seastar – a sports watch with an integrated bracelet – the PRX series (Precise, Robust, with the […]

Hands-On Video Review: Nomos Zürich World Time Midnight Blue Two Broke Watch Snobs
Nomos Zürich World Time Midnight Aug 19, 2024

Hands-On Video Review: Nomos Zürich World Time Midnight Blue

The Nomos Worldtimer is an interesting watch in the German Watchmaker’s catalog. It’s Nomos’ most complicated watch and their second most expensive, underneath the precious metal Lambda collection. The Zurich is called a worldtimer in name, but in reality it serves more as a GMT watch than a true worldtimer. Worldtimer’s tell time across time zones at a glance whereas the Zurich has the ability to advance the local time in 1hr increments while the sub-dial maintains 24-hr time in a set time zone. Nomos has made this watch for a long time. I found articles and blog posts referencing it going back to 2011. This is remarkable, on one hand, because it mean that Nomos’ has resisted the urge to build increasingly complicated watches and focused on truly honing their craft on the existing catalog.

A Late Summer Tradition: Glashütte Original Unveils this Year’s Seventies Chronograph Panorama Date Limited Editions Worn & Wound
Glashütte Original Unveils Aug 19, 2024

A Late Summer Tradition: Glashütte Original Unveils this Year’s Seventies Chronograph Panorama Date Limited Editions

Once again, Glashütte Original is using this relatively slow late summer period in the watch industry to bring us some 1970s inspired funk by way of their extremely underrated Seventies Chronograph Panorama Date. You might recall that each of the last three years saw new references for the chronograph in colors that are seasonally appropriate, and also harken back to a period of watch design when brands were less afraid to experiment. That’s a fitting way to introduce this particular watch to new audiences, since the design itself is very much an ode to 70s sports watches. But it’s also a pretty unique watch in its functionality, and we’ll take any excuse we can find to make sure more people know about it.  First things first: the colors. The “Swimming Pool” dial is a vibrant turquoise color inspired by a location where you’re hopefully still spending a lot of time as August draws to a close. “Watermelon” is a shade of coral that’s a bit less intense than the bright red that probably normally associate with the fruit. If you look back at previous summertime editions of the Seventies Chronograph, these colors might look somewhat familiar (Glashütte Original previously released dials in similar tones that they classified as blue and orange). But it appears that these dials have a more uniform finish than the sunburst treatment seen in earlier editions, and they also add a black ring around each subdial adding what I think is some welcome contrast.  That...

Introducing – The New Ochs und Junior Luna Sole Blue Patina ‘Ferragosto’ Monochrome
Aug 19, 2024

Introducing – The New Ochs und Junior Luna Sole Blue Patina ‘Ferragosto’

Ludwig Oechslin has devoted a lifetime to finding simple solutions to complex problems. His brand, Ochs und Junior, specialises in developing complications with as few components as possible and is renowned for its minimalist, Bauhaus industrial design style. Compressing astronomical features into a disarmingly simple display, the new Luna Sole delivers the time, date, moon […]

It’s An “Icy” Monday In August With Two Diamond-Set Versions Of The Rolex Cosmograph Daytona Fratello
Rolex Cosmograph Daytona Aug 19, 2024

It’s An “Icy” Monday In August With Two Diamond-Set Versions Of The Rolex Cosmograph Daytona

This Monday morning, it is all about making crucial “bling” decisions. Not too long ago we had the pleasure of going hands-on with two diamond-set versions of the Rolex Cosmograph Daytona in white gold: the reference 126589RBR with a “Panda” mother-of-pearl dial on an Oysterflex bracelet and the reference 126579RBR with a “Reverse Panda” “MOP” […] Visit It’s An “Icy” Monday In August With Two Diamond-Set Versions Of The Rolex Cosmograph Daytona to read the full article.

Introducing – The Rado Captain Cook Automatic with White/Blue Gradient Dial Monochrome
Rado Captain Cook Automatic Aug 19, 2024

Introducing – The Rado Captain Cook Automatic with White/Blue Gradient Dial

Following the relaunch of Rado’s classic Captain Cook in 2017 (first introduced in 1962), the diver’s portfolio has expanded significantly with models like the Bronze Collection and Two-Tone Automatics. This latest variant celebrates summer with a nod to tennis and offers three different straps for a new vibe whenever the mood strikes. It’s not the […]

Up Close: Jaeger-LeCoultre Duometre Quantieme Lunaire SJX Watches
Jaeger-LeCoultre Duometre Quantieme Lunaire Earlier Aug 19, 2024

Up Close: Jaeger-LeCoultre Duometre Quantieme Lunaire

Earlier this year Jaeger-LeCoultre unveiled the refreshed Duometre line, with the entry into the new collection being the Duometre Quantieme Lunaire, the only steel model in the line-up so far. The dual train movement is used to power two separate sets of indications, one is the time with hours, minutes, and seconds, and the other a combination of the date, moon phase, and lightning seconds. Made  up of several models sporting an all-new look, this year’s Duometre collection is the first substantial facelift of the model line since its launch in 2007. While the original models had an aesthetic that brought to mind A. Lange & Söhne, the redesigned Duometre models have a more vintage-ish look that incorporates elements that are popular today, including a domed crystal and decorative recesses on the lugs. In terms of mechanical function, however, the new Duometre models are fundamentally the same. The “duo” barrels of the Duometre Initial thoughts The new look is a good one. It’s attractive and still fairly original; although it is vintage inspired, the design avoids looking generic, thanks in part to the distinctive Duometre dial layout. The domed crystal and dial result in the new model looking slightly bigger than the original, but at the same time it feels thinner. The dial layout is essentially the same as on the earlier generation Quantieme Lunaire as the movement is essentially identical. The recognisable double barrels-and-trains construction is evident, wh...