Hodinkee
A Note On The Future Of Hodinkee
Spoiler alert: It looks a lot like its past, and I think you're going to like it.
Results for Mainspring Types and Alloys
29,862 articles · 1,973 videos found · page 619 of 1062
Hodinkee
Monochrome
Hands-on – Ready for the Olympics, The Omega Speedmaster Chronoscope Paris 2024 is a Winner
The 2024 Paris Olympics, which will start later this week, mark 92 years of Omega‘s legacy as the official timekeeper for the Games. Since 1932 and for the 31st time, the Omega Timing team, with its unparalleled expertise, extensive personnel, and tons of equipment, will support the competing athletes. To truly grasp the extent of […]
Fratello
Hands-On With The New Dietrich ED-1 - Featuring A Soft Hexagonal Case
Designing anything, including watches, is an iterative process. You move from one design to another, and every time, you get a bit closer to what you had in mind. I’m not a designer, but Emmanuel Dietrich, who founded the Dietrich brand in 2010, is. When you look at his previous designs, you can see that […] Visit Hands-On With The New Dietrich ED-1 - Featuring A Soft Hexagonal Case to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Laurent Ferrier Introduces the Grand Sport Tourbillon Sincere Platinum Jubilee
While Laurent Ferrier originally made its name with timepieces that paid homage to traditional watchmaking, the brand has recently evolved towards to a more contemporary style, especially with its Sport collection that marries solid, classical mechanics with sporty case designs. The latest addition to the line is the Grand Sport Tourbillon Sincere Platinum Jubilee Edition, a limited edition in rose gold and green guilloche that celebrates the 70th anniversary of Singapore-based retailer Sincere Fine Watches. Initial Thoughts The Sincere edition is essentially a Grand Sport Tourbillon dressed in a warm and appealing palette. The green dial complements the 5N rose gold case, a rich combination that conveys a sense of old-school luxury and refinement, which suits the commemorative occasion well. Unusually, it is presented on a strap, instead of a bracelet that has been the norm for most of Laurent Ferrier’s sports watches to date. The strap makes the watch more wearable – a bracelet would mean a lot of gold – and also slightly more accessible in terms of price. In typical Laurent Ferrier style, the quality of execution is high. The dial is made by Voutilainen’s Comblemine while the movement is decorated to an impressive level (though the bridges have a simpler linear brushed finish instead of the more traditional striping). Intrinsically, the Sincere edition is an appealing iteration, but the Laurent Ferrier Sport line in general feels ambiguous as the design not e...
Fratello
Fratello On Air: Talking About Watch Bracelets
Welcome to another episode of Fratello On Air. This week, we discuss watch bracelets and cover a wide range of subtopics about these important devices that fasten watches to our wrists. It’s another listener suggestion, and we hope you enjoy the show! For our listeners, the watch content begins after approximately 20 minutes. Watch bracelets […] Visit Fratello On Air: Talking About Watch Bracelets to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Hands On: Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Tourbillon Chronograph ‘Collection Excellence Platine’
Vacheron Constantin’s flagship launch for the year is the Les Cabinotiers “The Berkley” Grand Complication, but it a 1 kg pocket watch with 63 complications and an eight-figure price tag commissioned by a billionaire insurance entrepreneur. For more ordinary well-off persons, the brand’s halo product is the Tourbillon Chronograph Collection Excellence Platine. Based on a model launched in pink gold in 2020, the Tourbillon Chronograph Collection Excellence Platine is a large but elegant watch executed to a high level, with both fine movement decoration and the usual all-platinum CEP treatment. A periodic offering from Vacheron Constantin (VC) since 2006, the Collection Excellence Platine (CEP) is a series of limited editions that are variations of regular production models enhanced with the liberal use of platinum throughout the watch. Typically that means a platinum case and clasp, which are ordinary, but also an unusual sandblasted platinum dial and also a strap stitched with platinum-and-silk thread. Initial thoughts I’ve always liked the CEP series because it’s a subtle twist on the standard version, with the differences only really apparent to those in the know. At the same time, because the CEP treatment is simple, it often works better on some models than others. With the CEP line now almost 20 years old, there are about a dozen CEP editions to demonstrate that point. The platinum treatment arguably works best with more complicated watches like the Tradit...
Fratello
Introducing: The Second Version Of The Doxa Sub 300T Clive Cussler
You may have missed it, but last week would have marked Clive Cussler’s 93rd birthday. The famous adventure author wrote over 80 books and sold over 100,000,000 copies before passing away in 2020. Both Cussler and Dirk Pitt, his most famous protagonist, were known to wear Doxa watches. This spawned a fruitful relationship with the […] Visit Introducing: The Second Version Of The Doxa Sub 300T Clive Cussler to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Scales Down the Royal Oak Double Balance Wheel Openworked
Audemars Piguet (AP) first unveiled the Royal Oak Double Balance Wheel Openworked in 2016, in full-sized 41 mm format. It’s a technically interesting take on the brand’s signature luxury-sports watch. While it is a time-only watch, the skeletonised movement sports a pair of mirrored, superimposed balance wheels and hairsprings. Though already available in 37 mm with a sparkly “frosted” case or entirely gem-set, the 37 mm model wasn’t offered in the classic Royal Oak finish. Now the movement makes its debut in a compact 37 mm case in the traditional brushed-and-polished finish. It’s available in either pink or white gold with the open-worked movement colour-matched to the case metal. Initial thoughts The Double Balance Wheel model is something of a halo model for the Royal Oak range. Though it is not complicated in the functional sense, it is equipped with an interesting feature that theoretically contributes to chronometry. Add to that the distinctive aesthetics of the skeletonised movement, and the result is a watch that is classical Royal Oak in design yet more sophisticated in technical terms. The original 41 mm model, however, was fairly large, and the angular form of the Royal Oak accentuated the size. The original 37 mm models were extravagant and perhaps too over-the-top for everyday wear. The new pair is easily more wearable and should appeal to a wider audience. The new models are each priced at US$98,100, which is comparable to the earlier versions...
Worn & Wound
G-SHOCK’s Latest NASA Themed Watch is Here
This past weekend marked the 55th anniversary of the moon landing, unquestionably one of the greatest achievements in the history of humanity. When Neil Armstrong set foot on the lunar surface, it changed the world forever. We all know the story of Omega, the Speedmaster, and how that chronograph became the “moonwatch,” but there are plenty of other brands and watches that have attempted to jump on the moon landing and NASA bandwagon in some way. Some of these are successful, some of them are not. But one series of releases that I’ve always thought of as genuinely pretty charming are G-SHOCK’s NASA themed watches, the fifth iteration of which was recently unveiled. I think one of the reasons these watches work is because you could argue that NASA and G-SHOCK are organizations that share a certain ethos of problem solving rooted in science. NASA, of course, is in the business of solving problems related to the foundations of physics. The fundamental challenge of getting to the moon, after all, is escaping the earth’s gravity. There’s no moonshot if you can’t get out of low earth orbit. G-SHOCK, on the other hand, has a far more niche interest: creating the most indestructible, shock resistant watch possible. Through materials research and a lot of trial and error, they’ve been the kings of tough watches for decades. The new GW6900-NASA241 takes design inspiration from an unusual but appropriate source: old-school Casio calculators. You can imagine that a...
Monochrome
Hands-on – Trilobe Performs a Moonlight Serenade with its Les Matinaux L’Heure Exquise
Founded by Gautier Massonneau, French brand Trilobe abandons the conventional approach of displaying time with central hands. Instead, Trilobe inverts the formula and sets time in motion with counterclockwise rotating discs for the hours, minutes and seconds indicated by static trefoil pointers. Trilobe’s first collection, Les Matinaux, bears the name of a René Char poetry […]
Worn & Wound
Review: the Venezianico Redentore Bellanotte
I’ve never been to Venice, so I’m ill equipped to comment on how accurate the representation of St. Mark’s Square is on the dial of the new Venezianico Redentore Bellanotte, perhaps the brand’s most ambitious watch to date. What I am prepared to say, however, is that the new watch is impressive, charming, and full of little surprising details. And while it’s ultimately not a watch I’d personally wear day to day, it’s full of individual elements that I really love, and I’ve come away from it genuinely impressed at what Venezianico is capable of producing at what frankly feels like a made up price point. The fact that this watch comes in at under $1,000 is honestly kind of insane. Let’s back up a bit, though, because Venezianico is a brand that’s still new enough and small enough that they might require an old-fashioned introduction before we get to the watch at hand. As you may have guessed, Venezianico is an Italian brand, founded by brothers Alberto and Alessandro Morelli in 2017. They have a varied collection that includes watches across sport and dress categories, but they’re tied together by design elements inspired by the city of Venice, filtered through a modern design sensibility with little touches of classicism thrown in. The brand prides itself on its engineering acumen and has experimented quite liberally with materials, finding interesting uses for forged carbon, tungsten, mother-of-pearl, and aventurine in watches where you wouldn’t n...
Hodinkee
This Week In The Shop: Four New-For-2024 Watches From Zenith
From a penchant for retro revival flair to new material experimentations for the Chronomaster Sport and beyond – Zenith contains multitudes.
Monochrome
Introducing – The Delma Heritage Chronograph 100 Years Limited Edition
A rather discreet Swiss brand, Delma was founded in 1924 by brothers Adolf and Albert Gilomen as A. & A. Gilomen S.A. in Lengnau and currently operating from the same Swiss town. Following a takeover led by Ulrich Wüthrich in 1966, the company was renamed Delma Watch Ltd. This year, as you’d expect, is an […]
Fratello
A Monday Morning With A Hollywood Movie Star - The Hamilton Khaki Navy BeLOWZERO Auto Titanium
There’s much to say about the Hamilton Khaki Navy BeLOWZERO Auto Titanium, now available in a gray and yellow colorway. You get an awful lot of watch in the physical sense with a polarizing design that leaves plenty of room for debate. And there’s the more glamorous side of the watch that represents its character […] Visit A Monday Morning With A Hollywood Movie Star - The Hamilton Khaki Navy BeLOWZERO Auto Titanium to read the full article.
Quill & Pad
F.P. Journe Chronomètre Optimum Black Label Reviewed by Tim Mosso
Technically, this F.P. Journe watch is called the “Chronomètre Optimum Black Label,” but it should be called the “Ultimate.” That’s how much Tim Mosso reveres and admires a timepiece Journe himself describes as the most accurate mechanical watch he knows how to construct.
Monochrome
Introducing – A New Blue Panda TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon
When TAG Heuer released its Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon in 2016, it created a sensation on the watch market. It was not because of its double complications or its imposing 45mm case and skeletonised dial but because it featured an in-house integrated chronograph movement with a tourbillon regulator (Heuer 02T) and a hyper-aggressive price tag of […]
SJX Watches
Hands On: De Bethune DB28xs Purple Rain
Almost a dress watch done in sci-fi style, the most compact version of De Bethune’s trademark model gained a striking new look this year with the DB28xs Purple Rain. Clad entirely in purple – or more accurately, titanium heat treated to purple – the DB28xs Purple Rain is distinctive and striking because of its sheer colour. Though the colour is novel for De Bethune, the watch incorporates many of the brand’s signature design elements, including a “starry sky” dial and the DB2005 movement with a proprietary titanium and white gold balance wheel. Initial thoughts De Bethune didn’t invented flame-blued titanium, but the material has become something of the brand’s signature. It has been used extensively across its product line, arguably so much that it’s not as novel as it was. De Bethune later tried titanium heated to a bronze-gold finish, but that doesn’t have the vivid hue of blue. Titanium that’s been flamed to purple, however, is as vivid as blue. And the finish is still fairly unique, since it has only been applied to the DB28xs Purple Rain as well as a handful of one-off creations. As a result, while the Purple Rain is only a colour variation of an existing model, it is usually compelling because it is both different and striking. Because it’s essentially the same material as blued titanium, purple titanium will likely have the same durability. Like the blued finish, the purple is actually a thin oxide layer on the titanium that’s created by t...
Fratello
Hands-On With The Impressive Casio G-Shock MRG-B2100B-1A
The Casio G-Shock GA-2100 series became a fan favorite immediately after its introduction and a staple of the collection soon after that. But despite it being one of the defining model lines in the G-Shock collection, we had not seen a premium MR-G version since the introduction of the “CasiOak” silhouette in 2019. That wait […] Visit Hands-On With The Impressive Casio G-Shock MRG-B2100B-1A to read the full article.
Time+Tide
Watches that prove lug-to-lug is the most important measurement
What is lug-to-lug, and why does it matter? Zach explores the idea, and gives some examples.The post Watches that prove lug-to-lug is the most important measurement appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
W
Worn & Wound
Worn & Wound
A Week in Watches Ep. 85: Windup Watch Fair Chicago 2024
On episode 85 of A Week in Watches, Zach Weiss and Zach Kazan co-host from Windup Watch Fair Chicago 2024. With over 60 brands in attendance, it was a fantastic fair. Zach and Zach chose two brands each to talk to, one just debuting and the other a staple with a new release. Zach Kazan spoke to Monta about the Noble GMT, and then Colorado’s 5280 watches, who are creating rose-engine turned, vitreous enamel dials in the US. Zach Weiss then spoke to Chicago’s own Astor + Banks about the SeaRanger M2, as well as ARTEFKT Seven, a new brand that turned a lot of heads at the fair. To stay up to date about future Windup Watch Fairs, such as the New York City fair happening in October, head to WindupWatchFair.com The post A Week in Watches Ep. 85: Windup Watch Fair Chicago 2024 appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Deployant
Six reworked watch icons which captured our imagination
This week: the watch icons which have been reworked and reissued. Here is our selection of six which captured our imagination.
Fratello
Sunday Morning Showdown: Oris Divers Sixty-Five Calibre 400 38mm Vs. Tudor Black Bay 54
It’s a summer Sunday morning, so grab your caramel Frappuccino, and get ready for a battle rooted in history. We’re kidding, of course; an early morning battle like this requires a double espresso. But we weren’t kidding about the history-injected showdown that we are presenting to you this morning. We paired the latest 38mm Divers […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Oris Divers Sixty-Five Calibre 400 38mm Vs. Tudor Black Bay 54 to read the full article.
Monochrome
Buying Guide – Five Watches From Affordable To High-End Relying On The Humble Peseux 7001
Simplicity is nothing to be ashamed of, especially when it’s done right. And with the Peseux 7001, a movement that’s pretty much remained unchanged since it was launched over half a century ago, things have been done very right. This calibre is watchmaking reduced to the essence, yet it’s capable of great things! Despite its […]
Quill & Pad
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore T3 Chronograph: The One That Got Away
We’ve all got our “fishing” stories regarding “the one that got away.” John Keil's involves an Audemars Piguet that arguably started the Limited Edition Offshore craze and starred in a movie to boot: the Royal Oak Offshore T3.
Fratello
Fratello’s Theory On How To Find The Perfect Summer Watch
A few weeks ago, we recorded an episode of Fratello Talks on finding the perfect summer watch. In preparation, I thought, “What watches do I wear most during summer, and what do they have in common?” That’s how I came up with a little formula so I could determine what would be the perfect summer […] Visit Fratello’s Theory On How To Find The Perfect Summer Watch to read the full article.
Deployant
New: Delma The Heritage Chronograph 100 Years Limited Edition
Celebrating a century of precision and elegance, Delma introduces the Heritage Chronograph 100 Years Limited Edition. This timepiece follows the success of the sold-out stainless steel Bicompax Heritage Chronograph. The watch is limited to 100 pieces and priced at US$3100.
Fratello
Hands-On With The Chunky But Funky Cimier 711 Heritage Chronograph
You may have never heard of Cimier, but in the early 1970s, the brand produced over 1.5 million watches annually. Unfortunately, despite developing a quartz movement, Cimier struggled during the Quartz Crisis. Eventually, the company reopened its doors in 2003 after mechanical watches had become “cool” (again), opened the Watch Academy in 2010, and started […] Visit Hands-On With The Chunky But Funky Cimier 711 Heritage Chronograph to read the full article.
Monochrome
The Evergreens – The History of the ETA Peseux 7001, The Hand-Wound Classic That Stood the Test of Time
Self-winding calibres are undeniably an advancement, especially those boasting extended autonomy. Yet, there is a timeless ritual, almost archaic, the deliberate act of winding a watch by thumb and forefinger, each click of the ratchet wheel a symphony for the discerning ear. This tactile dance, this connection to the mechanics, is a pleasure some aficionados […]
Worn & Wound
Behind the Scenes with Tudor at Giro d’ Italia
A subtle tactile click of my right finger sends a wireless signal to my rear derailleur as I shift down one cog, my legs ramping up the cadence as my speed increases. Despite the jetlag and poor sleep, I feel as if I have a tailwind. My excitement, fueled by the imagery of chasing down a fellow racer for the win, cuts through the mental fog and gives me another 20 watts. I glance down at my wrist on which the new Tudor Pelagos FXD Chrono “Cycling Edition” is strapped to, checking my time as I ascend the famous Category 2 climb to the Superga. In a few short hours, professional riders from all over the world will be ascending this very same climb in the first stage of the famous Giro d’ Italia. The amount of time passed since I began the ascent accurately revealed my pro-rider fantasy as a delusion, as the true pro’s will be completing this climb significantly faster than my pace. To experience that feeling of a professional cyclist is not by happenstance. It is by intended design and exactly what Tudor strived to deliver in every detail. On this 30 km portion of the route, I am sporting the same kit, riding the same bike, and wearing the official watch of a Tudor Pro Cyclist which is why Tudor has flown me out to Turin, Italy. For the next 48 hours I would be fully immersed into what the life of a professional road cyclist would be when competing in a multi-stage national race. Everything about the next two days would expose me to the extreme precision that a...
Deployant
TGIFriday: Coffee cart on motorcycle: introducing the new Calibrate Coffee
Itinerant coffee vendor, Calibrate Coffee. And one with a La Marzocco Mini on his motorcycle side car. Pulling espresso, and other drinks