Hodinkee
Introducing: Kollokium Projekt 02 Variant B Gets Deeper And Darker With First Public Sale Of Sophomore Model
Kollokium's first public sale of its topographical, multi-layer dialed three-hander gets a darker, brutalist bent.
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Hodinkee
Kollokium's first public sale of its topographical, multi-layer dialed three-hander gets a darker, brutalist bent.
SJX Watches
Episode 31 of the SJX Podcast digs into two major industry reports - one from Vontobel on the primary market and one from EveryWatch on the secondary - and what they reveal about where value is concentrating in the watch industry. SJX and Brandon discuss the K-shaped nature of the market, the dominance of F.P. Journe among independents, and Cartier’s remarkable ability to sell across every price tier. The discussion also touches on the role of emotion in driving purchase decisions, the financialisation of the hobby, and why market reports have limited utility for collectors. Listen now on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, and YouTube.
Teddy Baldassarre
Given the rapid, cyclical nature of trends, it seems that the cultural zeitgeist proclaims every few years that “the 90s are so back.” I think the better question is, did the 90s ever really leave? Well, it's a good a time as any to revisit the 1990s watches that defined this seminal decade. Since the recent release of Ryan Murphy’s “Love Story” limited series retelling of Carolyn Bessette and John F. Kennedy Jr.’s relationship is gripping the pop-cultural imagination, it seems that I can’t open my phone without being digitally transported back to the 90s. While I could resist this specific flavor of nostalgia, it feels more fun to dive right in and lean into the latest obsession with the 90s, translating it into the context of watches. The 90s, after all, is quite a quirky and compelling era of watchmaking. Case sizes were getting bigger, marketing was getting flashier, the industry was still righting itself after the quartz shakeup, and designs that still ring relevant today made their initial debuts. So without further ado, let's hop on in the metaphorical time machine to take a journey through the defining watches of the 90s. [toc-section heading="Cartier Tank Française"] Image: Sotheby's Selfishly, I’m going to kick us off with one of my favorite watches that came out of the 90s. Pretty much an immediate hit when it debuted in 1996, the Tank Française is where Cartier’s iconic design adopted a more laidback attitude. A marked shift from the forma...
Hodinkee
All that and more in this week's edition of Hodinkee's What's Selling Where column.
Time+Tide
Fortis looks to upgrade the toughness of its deep-sea diver with a new DLC coating that also gives it a monochrome look.The post Fortis adds a new layer of toughness to the Marinemaster appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
The Jura balcony awakens under the March sun. Between sky and mountains, the village of Sainte-Croix and the l’Institut de la Mécanique d’Art (IMA), seem suspended in silence. Yet behind this tranquillity lies one of the most remarkable centres of mechanical art, also known as the automata, for the institute is home to the Association Mec-Art pour la Mécanique d’Art, which is also open to the public to further its mission to promote the craft of automata. “Watchmaking mechanics is industry – serial production. Mechanical art is about unique pieces, for which we use entirely different methods. Some brands focus exclusively on one or the other, while others operate at the crossroads of both – like De Bethune,” explains Denis Flageollet, the cofounder of De Bethune who founded the Association Mec-Art in 2016 together with François Junod and Nicolas Court, both automaton makers. IMA occupies the building originally constructed by Reuge in 2016, which was acquired by De Bethune in 2023. The building now hosts mechanical art activities for Reuge, Van Cleef & Arpels and De Bethune, as well as the Association Mec-Art. “Mechanical art depends on an ecosystem of artisans,” he adds, pointing to the uniquely concentrated geography of Sainte-Croix, “the only town where all these skills coexist.” François Junod agrees, “We live in a natural incubator. Here, everyone talks about mechanical art.” It is precisely for this reason that when Junod was invited to ...
Monochrome
Following the sudden and surprising departure of Antoine Pin in January, after being at the head of TAG Heuer for just over a year, the Swiss watchmaker owned by French luxury powerhouse LVMH has just announced the appointment of a new CEO – after several shakups, following the departure from this role in 2013 of […]
Time+Tide
The new Girard-Perregaux Minute Repeater Flying Bridges reminds a perhaps Laureato-focused audience what the brand was really built on.The post Girard-Perregaux emphasises centuries of in-house mastery with its new Minute Repeater Flying Bridges appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
With subtle refinements comes a next step in this integrated bracelet throwback that shows Nivada Grenchen is not resting on its laurels. The post Nivada Grenchen’s new F77 MKII stuns with a Dark Blue Aventurine dial appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
We’ve been following the horological adventures of Vincent Bonnaud (1991, France) since 2021, when he introduced his first BND dive watch. What caught my attention was that Vincent received a lot of praise for his BND watch from former Rolex ambassador and COMEX diver Théo Mavrostomos. Someone who worked for COMEX for two decades and […] Visit Meet The Third Iteration Of The BND Dive Watch to read the full article.
Hodinkee
Celebrating 160 Years of Horological Tradition!
Monochrome
If you’ve been reading MONOCHROME for some time now, you might know that I have a very strong connection with the Rolex Explorer 36mm, in particular the 1990s reference 14270. Not only is it a watch that I consider to be the perfect example of what a yougntimer is, but it’s also, in my books, […]
Worn & Wound
The post The Art of Packing for Venice: A Spring Grand Tour with Venezianico appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Monochrome
Since its debut in 2023, Vulcain’s Skindiver Nautique has quickly moved from a niche revival piece to a regular part of the brand’s present-day catalogue. These watches draw inspiration from Vulcain’s 1960s skin-diving models. Back then, diving as a hobby was gaining popularity, and compact, practical dive watches like the Nautique felt at home both in and […]
Monochrome
People often say “bigger is better”, but also “big things come in small packages”. While both statements can be very true in multiple aspects of life, it also goes for watches. In some instances, you want a bit of size and heft in a watch, while on other occasions, you want something a bit more […]
Time+Tide
In time for International Women’s Day, we shine a light on some of the women in watches you ought to know about by now.The post To celebrate International Women’s Day, here’s some of the best female-led watch brands appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
There’s an endless amount of mechanical wristwatches on the market today from a seemingly endless amount of brands (large and small), but almost all watches fall into a specific style (assuming it’s not from MB&F; or Urwerk). However, many take on multiple roles and blur those lines – an Audemars Piguet Royal Oak is a […]
Deployant
CASIO EDIFICE Joins Forces with TOYOTA RACING to Accelerate the Future of Motorsports
Monochrome
Following the success of the Millesime collection, a series of vintage-inspired, 1930s-based watches, Raymond Weil went on to revamp one of its older collections, the Toccata. For nearly 50 years, the Toccata has explored the realms of shaped dress watches, finding inspiration in classically composed music. But at the end of 2025, RW presented the Toccata Heritage, […]
SJX Watches
Last month Vontobel published its annual report on the Swiss watch industry, revealing a startling shakeup for the pecking order, with a rapidly growing share of the market going to industry giants, anaemic growth, and a few signs of hope. Another of the key points made in the report published by Vontobel, a family-controlled Swiss private bank, is influence of external factors beyond the industry’s control, like the strong Swiss franc and continuously climbing gold prices, but which have nonetheless played a major role in its recent development. Long the go-to publication for industry insiders, the Vontobel watch report has been published annually for well over a decade - and since 2021, the report has been authored by Jean-Philippe Bertschy, the bank’s head of Swiss equity research (pictured above). The strong franc Before getting into the numbers, it’s worth looking at the broader macroeconomic environment affecting the industry. The strong franc and weak dollar are headwinds for the export-oriented Swiss watch industry, and, like erratic US trade policy and soaring gold prices, entirely outside its control. In nominal terms, total Swiss watch exports declined for the second year in a row, down 1.7% to CHF25.5 billion, following a 2.8% decline the year before. However, the Swiss franc’s appreciation casts a more sympathetic light on these numbers. For example, if you sold a watch for US$100 this time last year, that revenue would have converted to about CHF90....
Worn & Wound
It’s a fair assumption that if you’re the kind of enthusiast that’s interested in independent watchmaking, the allure of something a little different isn’t lost on you. The independent watch space is a wildly diverse one that’s full of outsider artisans, but even in a field of outsiders, English watchmaker James Lamb is something of an anomaly. Lamb’s watches genuinely don’t look like anything else on the market. While they’re all time-only affairs, they feature an offset sub-dial layout that frees up the outer portion of the dial to be used as a decorative space. With his Origin Series, Lamb applies strikingly colorful enamel work to the outer dial section. With his latest release, the Linea Edition, Lamb has collaborated with one of the UK’s most respected ornamental engravers, Joanne Ryall, to create a line of watches with beautifully hand-engraved titanium and gold outer dials. While the dials are showstopping displays of handcraft, Lamb’s watches also feature completely handmade cases (read: no CNC machines used), which he crafts out of Argentium silver. Lamb’s case designs are robust and understated; they do a fabulous job of grounding the watch’s bold dial designs, but the craftsmanship that goes into them is something serious horology enthusiasts fawn over. For Lamb, a self-proclaimed watch industry isolationist, doing things like crafting his cases entirely by hand is kind of the whole point of making watches. Lamb deliberately avoids...
Time+Tide
Leveraging the "Beztimate" system of trusted watch buying/selling platform Bezel, watch geeks can now bet on the future prices of watches.The post You might not be able to buy a Rolex, but you can now bet on the future price of one appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
The audacity of Horologer Ming as a watch designer and an independent watchmaker isn’t to be demonstrated anymore… Over its short life, the brand has managed to create a strong identity, yet it never ceases to evolve. Since its debut in 2017, the collective led by designer and photographer Ming Thein has built an impressive […]
Time+Tide
Ballet, jewels, classical music and incredibly impressive mechanical complication come together in this sumptuous statement piece.The post The luxurious mechanical musical dance of the Van Cleef & Arpels Lady Arpels Ballerine Musicale Émeraude appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
Benrus has unveiled a new version of their Sky Chief, a classic pilot’s chronograph that dates to the brand’s 1940s heyday. There are many, many vintage inspired chronographs and re-editions of classic references on the market, so it takes a certain something to stand out from the crowd in this particular watch collecting niche. It appears that Benrus, for this release, has taken the approach of creating a vintage styled chronograph that is truly in line with the proportions of the original, something a lot of brands simply don’t care about, or don’t quite go far enough in emulating. The headline here, I think, is that the new Sky Chief measures in at a very vintage-accurate 36mm in diameter. The original Sky Chief was approximately 35mm, so this is about as close to the original as anyone has a right to expect given the need to use a modern movement. The decision to go small here has two key benefits. First, obviously, the case is going to wear great on a huge variety of wrists. The 36mm diameter is a very accommodating size, and the case height of 11.9mm and lug to lug of 42.5mm make for a watch with classic proportions, at least on paper (we haven’t seen the Sky Chief in person yet). The other important benefit of a smaller case that people do not talk about nearly enough when it comes to watches like this, chronographs in particular, is that you wind up with a far more balanced and cohesive dial. A smaller case of course means less dial space, and for a c...
Monochrome
Still a very young brand (founded in 2018), Norqain has rapidly grown to become an established brand, specialised in adventure watches and anything linked to mountaineering activities. With the Independence, Freedom, Wild One and Adventure collections, Norqain seeks the heights and offers robust watches that often come with serious mechanical credentials. One of the earliest […]
Monochrome
In 2016, Armin Strom rocked the watchmaking scene with the release of its Mirrored Force Resonance, an incredible technical breakthrough that miniaturised the centuries-old concept of synchronised motion into the confines of a wristwatch. Using two independent oscillators coupled by a patented resonance clutch spring, Armin Strom breathed life into Christiaan Huygens’ observation that two […]
Fratello
Part of the fascination that drives my interest in watches is the endless variations in design and, even more so, completely new ideas that result in something I have never seen before. Most of these true innovations come from small independent brands that do not need to cater to the mass market. Recently, I was […] Visit Hands-On With The Kudoke 5 - A Piece Of Art For Your Wrist to read the full article.
Time+Tide
Making final decisions before your big wedding day can be stressful. For watch addicts, it's which watch to wear. Here are some tips...The post 9 of the best watches to wear on your wedding day appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
At the time of starting our main YouTube channel in 2017 discussing watches, Tudor was already well on its way with hit releases like the Black Bay and Pelagos, with MT manufacture calibers furthering the excitement around the brand. However, if we had to identify the start of the second wave for Tudor in the 21st cent
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