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New: MB&F; Horological Machine 9 ‘Flow’
MB&F; extends the HM9 model line with two new models in titanium and red gold, with two dial styles. Introducing the MB&F; HM9 "Flow".
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MB&F; extends the HM9 model line with two new models in titanium and red gold, with two dial styles. Introducing the MB&F; HM9 "Flow".
Hodinkee
Titanium, ceramic, and an always-on display!
Time+Tide
Editor’s note: The Marine is Breguet’s star of the show at the moment, with a profusion of new models in the house - including some chic titanium options - but we can’t help but have a soft spot for this elegant beast, the Breguet Marine 5817 Big Date. What a looker … We’re willing to … ContinuedThe post A different kind of luxury sports watch – the Breguet Marine 5817 Big Date appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
There an Omega with a titanium movement, some shared love of old-school photography, and even a covert military operation. This week's got it all.
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Omega updates the Aqua-Terra collection with a Ultra Light model, in Gamma Titanium and a telescopic crown. Developed with golfer Rory McIlroy.
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SJX Watches
Omega’s latest debut is a surprising one, an incredibly light wristwatch that is also incredibly expensive – traditionally territory held by brands like Richard Mille. Weighing just 55g, or about 10 sheets of A4 printer paper, the Seamaster Aqua Terra Ultra Light is made almost entirely of titanium, right down to the bridges and plate of the movement. And it retails for US$48,600. Developed in collaboration with Omega ambassador Rory McIlroy, a four-time majors champion and former world number one, the Aqua Terra Ultra Light is ostensibly conceived to be worn by athletes during competitions. A new(ish) alloy The case is 41mm but made from what Omega calls Gamma Titanium, which is actually titanium aluminide (TiAl), a relatively new titanium alloy that’s prized for its hardness and corrosion-resistance, even at high temperatures. That’s why it’s used for the blades of jet engines, amongst other things. Because the watch is meant to be worn by sportsmen, the crown is recessed and telescopic. It sits almost flush with the case when not in use, but a gentle push pops it out for winding and setting. And the dial is also titanium, but fashioned from a more common grade 5 alloy. It’s is finished with the signature horizontal fluting of the Aqua Terra range. The first titanium movement More unusually, the cal. 8928 Ti inside is also made mostly of titanium. The bridges and base plate are made of ceramised titanium, which is titanium coated with ceramic. The movem...
Hodinkee
The latest in lightweight mechanical sports watches from Omega features a movement made in ceramized titanium.
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After bringing Laureato firmly back into the spotlight, Girard-Perregaux increases the case size and makes the watch look more sporty. Laureato Absolute is entirely clad in black PVD-treated titanium and water-resistant to 300 metres.
SJX Watches
Singapore retailer The Hour Glass kicked off its 40th anniversary limited editions with the all-platinum Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph, now followed by a pair of watches from leading independent watchmakers, De Bethune and Urwerk. The Singapore retailer is getting a three-piece limited edition based on the current UR-105, but one that’s also a throwback to the brand’s early creations. In aged bronze and titanium, The UR-105 “The Hour Glass” similar to the UR-105 CT Bronze unveiled earlier this year, but streamlined and sans the sprung lid over the front – a simplification of the design that’s also an improvement. Appropriate enough for a retailer that’s been selling Urwerk for 15 years, the commemorative edition features elements borrowed from Urwerk models over the years, creating a watch that’s a nostalgic reminder of the brand’s foundational watches from the early 2000s. UR-103 reborn The UR-105 was launched in 2014 as the successor to the UR-103, first launched in 2003. The bestselling Urwerk to date and arguably the brand’s signature watch, the UR-103 was the watch that made Urwerk a champion of avant-garde mechanical watchmaking. A nod to that milestone watch, the commemorative UR-105 features a U-shaped sapphire crystal, just as it was on the UR-103.03. While the very first version of the watch, the UR-103.01, featuring a narrow, curved window for the time, the UR-103.03 of 2005 expanded the view with a far larger cry...
SJX Watches
De Bethune is the latest amongst a number of watchmakers to take the covers off a commemorative edition to mark the 40th anniversary of Singapore watch retail powerhouse The Hour Glass. For the occasion, De Bethune has put together a variant of its signature DB28 with sprung lugs that’s entirely clad in brilliant, blued titanium. First unveiled in polished titanium in 2018, the Steel Wheels is essentially a DB28 wearing a little less. A partially open-worked dial – which is actually the delta-shaped barrel bridge – reveals its pair of skeletonised barrels and gears. While the original Steel Wheels captures the essence of De Bethune, combining its trademark design with the brand’s fundamental technical innovations, it was lacking a generous dose of blued titanium, a gorgeous, heat-treated alloy that is synonymous with the brand. Colour consistency That has now been rectified with the DB28 Steel Wheels Blue, arguably the purest – and bluest – distillation of the brand’s core values and technical achievements. It features an intense, mirror-polished, blued titanium case and dial that form a striking contrast against the exposed inner mechanics. Though blued titanium is also used by other brands today, De Bethune was amongst the first to mirror-polish its titanium cases and more crucially, started using heat treatment to blue titanium way back in 2006. An example of an early De Bethune using blued titanium, a DB25L from 2010 with a blued dial...
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SJX Watches
Montblanc recently introduced the 1858 Split Second Chronograph with a bronze case, black, multi-scale dial, and a monopusher, split-seconds Minerva movement inside. Priced at just 33,500 Swiss francs, it is a bargain as such things go. Now Montblanc has taken the covers off the one-of-a-kind, titanium version with a blue agate dial created for charity auction Only Watch 2019. Though it costs a bit more – the estimate is 42,000-48,000 Swiss francs – the watch still feels like a steal. The dial is made of blue agate, a hard, semiprecious stone, with a graduated colour that darkens towards the edges. Design-wise it’s the same as that found on the bronze model: inspired by a 1930s aviator’s chronograph made by Minerva, it has a double chronograph scale – a telemeter on the outer rim and a snail-shaped tachymeter in the middle. The contrast of white and red against the blue dial is both refreshing and striking. Notably, the dial forgoes the faux-aged “lume” of the bronze model; the cathedral hands and numerals are instead filled with white Super-LumiNova, letting the retro design speak for itself. The large dimensions of the case remain unchanged from the standard bronze model – 44mm in diameter and 14.55mm high – but it’s significantly lighter thanks to the lightness of titanium. The sapphire caseback reveals the gorgeous, hand-wound and hand-finished MB M16.31. It is essentially the MB M16.29 derived from a pocket watch movement, but w...
SJX Watches
Continuing the tradition of one of a kind dive watches for Only Watch that started in 2015, Tudor has just unveiled the Black Bay Ceramic One. Entirely clad in matte black but composed of several different materials, the Black Bay Ceramic One is starkly different from any other Tudor dive watch. The 41mm case is made of ceramic, while the bezel is black-coated titanium fitted with a ceramic bezel insert. Both the case back and crown and black-coated steel, but the back is unusual – it’s the only Tudor watch with a display back aside from the little loved North Flag. The sapphire back reveals the MT5602 movement, a “manufacture” calibre with 70-hour power reserve and silicon hairspring. The dial is all-black to match, with the markings and text printed in glossy back to distinguish them from the matte black dial surface. The hands and hour markers are filled with black Super-Luminova, which will glow green in the dark, albeit dimly. And the strap is rubber, but lined on the top with matte black alligator, which is the same construction as the rubber-calf strap found on the recently launched Black Bay P01. The Black Bay Ceramic One (ref. M7921/001CN) has an estimate of 4,500-5,500 Swiss francs. If past Tudor watches made for Only Watch are anything to go by, it will blow right past the estimate straight out of the gate and probably finish just over 300,000 Swiss francs. It’ll be sold on November 9, 2019 at Christie’s in Geneva. Visit onlywatch.com for the ...
Hodinkee
A one-of-one titanium and tantalum sports watch from Vacheron Constantin – do you think it's worthy of production?
Time+Tide
Bulgari’s Octo Finissimo family has been shattering records left, right and centre since its introduction in 2014. But the watch that really captured the hearts and minds of fans and critics alike was the Octo Finissimo Automatic - initially offered in sandblasted titanium, and shortly after in distinctive steel and gold versions. Well, this year … ContinuedThe post The stealthy, sexy, surprising Bulgari Octo Finissimo Ceramic appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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The Cartier Santos sees a major design upgrade with its newly cased line. Notably, the profile of the case, bezel and thickness have become more streamlined. The new case also features a quick release strap design, reminiscent of smart watches -- think Fitbit, Apple Watch. But what really makes this design great again and still a novelty despite its otherwise 'fashionable' status lies in the movement of the new Santos de Cartier Chronograph.
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We start Romain Gauthier with a new Insight Micro Rotor Black Titanium now with a blue grand feu enamel dial. RG makes the dial base and works with an enameling to apply the enamel and the final finishing of frosting is done in house by abrasive the shiny enamel finish to get the frosted look.Read More
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De Bethune continues to impress this year with the novelties. We begin with DB28 Yellow Tones. 42.6mm in titanium which is heat treated to achieve this cool yellow/brown colour. With the SS/palladium 3D moonphase. CHF 95,000 LE 25. The lugs are now smaller and articulating. Next the DB21 Maxichrono Re-Edition in a titanium. The lugsRead More
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Zenith focus the 50th Anniversary of the El Primero. We begin with the Zenith Defy Inventor – the commercial edition of the Defy Lab launched in 2017 which we have covered in detail. Case size 44mm in titanium case and aeronity bezel. The frequency is increased from 15Hz to 18Hz. Now triple certified: Chronometer CertifiedRead More
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Bulgari breaks the thinnest records again. Fifth World Record. 2014: tourbillon. 2016: Minute Repeater. 2017: Automatc Micro Rotor. 2918: Tourbillon Automatic. And this year the GMT Chronograph. This year two incredible pieces: First the Finnissimo Chronograph GMT in sandblasted titanium case. Ultra thin Chrono movement of only 3.3mm. Case 6.9mm in an slightly larger 42mmRead More
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CITIZEN gives its Eco-Drive collection an ultra thinning, with their Super Titanium™ Eco-Drive One collection. The watch is super thin, super light, super hard and is completely solar powered.
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Revolution
F.P. Journe brings a new titanium case to the élégante line, an unusual quartz watch powered by an electromechanical movement.
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We kick off with the Girard Perregaux novelties. The new collection: Laureatto Absolute with a magnificent blue dial in a titanium PVD, 44mm and water resistant to 300m. The wwTC. And the Chronograph. The Chrono can be be operated under water. And the hero piece: the GP Cosmos – celestial and terrestrial globes giving theRead More
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We feature a lookbook on three Breguet Classique watches - in a feature with Kevin Seah Bespoke and Gaziano & Girling shoes. Investigating style vs fashion.
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Bell and Ross unveils the new BR-X1 Military. Signature square case in high resistance titanium and a skeletonized sapphire glass dial. Hands-on review.
Time+Tide
The other day we showed you the very heritage-inspired Captain Cook Mark II from Rado. Well, now it’s time for the other side of the coin, the modern take on an old classic. Meet the Rado Tradition Captain Cook Mark III. On paper, it’s a titanium-cased diver with an internal bezel. On the wrist, it’s … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Looking back to the future with Rado’s Tradition Captain Cook Mark III appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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