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Results for Above the Date Window

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Above the Date Window: Steve McQueen's Monaco and What Sotheby's Catalogues Really Tell You

How a sliver of dial real estate above the date window decodes provenance on every screen-worn Heuer Monaco that has passed through Sotheby's and Phillips.

H. Moser & Cie x The Armoury Endeavour Small Seconds Total Eclipse: The Dark Side Of Elegance Quill & Pad
H. Moser & Cie x Feb 10, 2022

H. Moser & Cie x The Armoury Endeavour Small Seconds Total Eclipse: The Dark Side Of Elegance

As the resident gentleman of Quill & Pad, the H. Moser & Cie x The Armoury Endeavour Small Seconds Total Eclipse should have Martin Green's name written all over it. Yet when he first saw the watch, he didn’t boil over with excitement. This is not the first logoless, minimalistic watch that Moser has made, so what does it add to what is already there? Read on to discover the answer.

CHEAP BASTARD: The Leff Amsterdam Tube Watch Time+Tide
Feb 10, 2022

CHEAP BASTARD: The Leff Amsterdam Tube Watch

Okay, you got us, this piece is a smidge over the $500 AUD benchmark that we hold so dear at this penny-pinching, open-your-wallet-and-moth-flies-out column. But the ROI is worth it. There are a number of colourways in Leff’s Tube Collection but for out-and-out handsomeness, we’re drawn to the steel and pearl combination. The first thing you’ll … ContinuedThe post CHEAP BASTARD: The Leff Amsterdam Tube Watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Cartier And HBO’s ‘And Just Like That,’ The ‘Sex And The City’ Sequel (Attention: Spoilers Ahead) Quill & Pad
Cartier Feb 9, 2022

Cartier And HBO’s ‘And Just Like That,’ The ‘Sex And The City’ Sequel (Attention: Spoilers Ahead)

One streaming series Elizabeth Doerr was really looking forward to was 'And Just Like That,' the much-anticipated sequel to 'Sex and the City.' She has always loved the taboo-laden adventures of the quartet of New York City fashionista heroines of this story and their diverse love lives – escapism at its best with lots of funky fashion to ogle and girl talk to laugh along with. It was the perfect show for Cartier to fill with product placement, too, even if reviews haven't been the greatest. Here's why.

Havid Nagan Debuts with the Clean and Geometric HN00 SJX Watches
Havid Nagan Feb 9, 2022

Havid Nagan Debuts with the Clean and Geometric HN00

After two years of development, Havid Nagan has finally made its debut with the HN00 Titanium. An unusually well-honed design for the inaugural watch of a brand that originated on Kickstarter, the HN00 combines an original case with an attractive guilloche dial, as well as a respectable micro-rotor movement. The genesis of Havid Nagan lay in its founder Aren Bazerkanian’s goal of producing a relatively accessible watch that incorporates elements typically found in pricier timepieces. So Mr Bazerkanian launched a modest Kickstarter campaign in 2019 to fund the prototyping process. Initial thoughts The HN00 is notable for managing a fairly original design that contains thoughtful details. Most impressive is the barleycorn guilloche dial covered in glossy, lacquer that mimics enamel. While the pattern is common, the HN00 dial is especially fine, especially around the centre of the dial where the grain converges and diminishes in size. Importantly, the dial has done away with superfluous elements such as a date or seconds hand, which presents the guilloche in all its glory. Even with the proliferation of the cushion-shaped case, the squarish case of the HN00 stands on its own. It avoids calling to mind watches from the likes of Panerai or Patek Philippe. The dimensions of the case are restrained, though it does feel a bit on the thick because neither the bezel nor the case back are sloped, while the case middle is tall, resulting in substantial verticality. At US$8...

The Leica ZM 1 and ZM 2 Have Finally Arrived SJX Watches
Feb 8, 2022

The Leica ZM 1 and ZM 2 Have Finally Arrived

Originally announced in 2018, the Leica L1 and L2 (now renamed ZM 1 and ZM 2) wristwatches have finally made it to market. Developed with the help of a German watchmaker but very much a proprietary product, the ZM 1 and ZM 2 are both powered by variants of the same cleverly constructed calibre that is an impressive debut for the camera maker’s horological venture. Initial thoughts The Leica watch has a restrained, Germanic aesthetic with interesting details, but more importantly an interesting, thoughtful movement. Developed from the ground up for Leica, the calibre features useful complications like a power reserve and hacking, zero-reset seconds, but executed in an unusual yet practical manner. At the same time, the patented pull crown is novel without sacrificing functionality. The design of the movement is also appealing, with its partially open-worked bridges cleverly exposing the key components of the going train and complications The watch is big, but not excessively large. Considering the size of the calibre, the case dimensions are acceptable. That said, this is the limit, any larger and the case would be enormous. It helps that the styling is attractively low key. The dial and case appear simple at a distance, but reveal their details up close. The hands and hour markers, for instance, echo each other, while the crowns are finely knurled. Leica also avoided a common pitfall of watches inspired by other technically-oriented industries, no doubt thanks to Achim H...

Calling Up and Coming Watchmakers – The F.P. Journe Young Talent Competition SJX Watches
F.P. Journe Young Talent Competition Open Feb 7, 2022

Calling Up and Coming Watchmakers – The F.P. Journe Young Talent Competition

Open to watchmakers aged between 18 and 30 from anywhere in the world, the F.P. Journe Young Talent Competition (YTC) is an annual affair that seeks to identify the most promising watchmakers of the future. Interestingly, any candidate who has “must have independently designed and created a timepiece and/or technical construction” can participate, whether or not he or she has formal training. A candidate can enter any type of timepiece – last year’s winner was 29-year old Mario Scarpatetti, whose entry was a longcase clock with a patented secular perpetual calendar mechanism of his own invention. The Kalendar Perpeten clock made by last year’s winner, Mario Scarpatetti Mr Scarpatetti won a CHF20,000 grant sponsored by Singapore retailer The Hour Glass, which is once again the prize for the YTC 2022. The winner will the selected by a jury of industry notables that include Francois-Paul Journe himself, Philippe Dufour, and Giulio Papi, who will make their choice according to four criteria: originality, technical complexity, aesthetics and finishing, as well as quality of make. Candidates can submit their entries on fpjourne.com.  

Recommended Reading: The In-Depth Guide to the F. P. Journe Octa Chronographe SJX Watches
F.P. Journe s most intriguing offerings Feb 5, 2022

Recommended Reading: The In-Depth Guide to the F. P. Journe Octa Chronographe

A short-lived model in production for just a few years – it was replaced by the Centigraphe in 2008 – the Octa Chronographe was nevertheless one of F.P. Journe’s most intriguing offerings in technical terms. While based on the standard cal. 1300 found in the simpler Octa models, the chronograph movement utilised a stopwatch mechanism integrated into the base plate under the dial. In other words, the chronograph was integrated but located where a modular setup would typically be. As a result the Chronographe remained the same height as less complex Octa models (though that thinness would cause a variety of problems with the functionality, especially with the date). Its technical details – which vary across generations – are just one aspect of the watch detailed in A Collector’s Guide for the Octa Chronographe by F. P. Journe by Shawn Mehta, founder of independent watchmaking merchant Watch4Moi. (At the same time it’s worth revisiting the guide to the F.P. Journe Tourbillon Remontoir d’Egalite that I wrote in 2016, making it one of the first-ever Journe “guides”.) Octa Chronographe no. 001 that sold at Phillips in November last year Though the first in numerical sequence, it was not actually the first example produced as indicated by its details Unlike many recent “guides” that rely on plagiarisation or secondary sources, Mr Mehta’s article cite facts and figures from F.P. Journe itself. For instance, he tells us that only 35 examples of the Octa Ch...

Patria Brigadier Flyback Chrono: Run, Don’t Walk, It’s The Best Value Swiss Made Automatic Chronograph Of The Year Quill & Pad
Feb 3, 2022

Patria Brigadier Flyback Chrono: Run, Don’t Walk, It’s The Best Value Swiss Made Automatic Chronograph Of The Year

Every time Ian Skellern writes the words “relatively affordable” here on Quill & Pad, he braces himself for the stream of comments reminding him that he must live in an alternative reality to most of the world. So he doesn't describe the Patria Brigadier Flyback Chrono as relatively affordable (though compared to most of the watches we review on Quill & Pad he thinks it well merits that description), but he does think that it’s fantastic value and the bargain of the year. And here he explains why.

Montblanc Flexes With The New Meisterstück Calligraphy Solitaire Burgundy Quill & Pad
Montblanc Flexes Feb 2, 2022

Montblanc Flexes With The New Meisterstück Calligraphy Solitaire Burgundy

A fountain pen’s nib is the source of its magic. Yes, there are many beautiful pens out there but without a great nib a pretty pen is just a pretty pen. A good pen point can transform an ordinary writing experience into a memorable melding of mind and hand. Montblanc’s new Meisterstück Calligraphy Solitaire Burgundy Lacquer is a desirable pen by any measure, not the least of which is contributed to by its 18-karat gold flexible nib.

An open letter to Bulgari: Please consider making this version of the Serpenti, and I’ll buy one Time+Tide
Bulgari Please consider making Feb 1, 2022

An open letter to Bulgari: Please consider making this version of the Serpenti, and I’ll buy one

Editor’s note: When I was in Dubai recently for Dubai Watch Week, I had the chance to try on a Bulgari Serpenti in rose gold and white ceramic. The owner of the watch, Eleonor of @theiofj was more than happy to oblige, and I swapped her for my 15500 Royal Oak. It wasn’t just for … ContinuedThe post An open letter to Bulgari: Please consider making this version of the Serpenti, and I’ll buy one appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Anniversary Wine Suggestions For 2022: What To Drink When The Year Is More Important Than The Price Quill & Pad
Jan 31, 2022

Anniversary Wine Suggestions For 2022: What To Drink When The Year Is More Important Than The Price

It never fails: pull out a bottle of wine from a friend or family member’s birth year and the entire event becomes just that little bit more special. Of course, the older we get the harder that becomes, but it is far from impossible. And, of course, if you were so fortunate as to have arrived on earth during a great “vintage,” so much the better. Here, Ken Gargett makes some wine recommendations for celebrating a big anniversary or birthday in 2022.

MICRO MONDAYS: Horon Watches makes a splash with the Ocean Hunter, a collection of 300m divers at an affordable price Time+Tide
Jan 31, 2022

MICRO MONDAYS: Horon Watches makes a splash with the Ocean Hunter, a collection of 300m divers at an affordable price

There is a reason why many microbrands choose a diver as their first offering. It’s a category of watches that is not only robust but offers the brand a platform to say a lot through its design. From the bezel to the case, nothing is off limits when it comes to creating a diver. Thus, … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: Horon Watches makes a splash with the Ocean Hunter, a collection of 300m divers at an affordable price appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Happy Chinese New Year Of The Tiger 2022 With 8 Auspicious Big Cats Featuring On Wristwatches Quill & Pad
Zodiac often using rare artistic Jan 30, 2022

Happy Chinese New Year Of The Tiger 2022 With 8 Auspicious Big Cats Featuring On Wristwatches

It is now a tradition for watchmakers to observe Chinese New Year by creating beautiful, decorative, limited edition timepieces adorned with symbolic depictions of the appropriate sign of the Chinese zodiac – often using rare, artistic techniques paying tribute to the eastern calendar. The Year of the Tiger – which is the third animal in the 12-year zodiac cycle – begins on February 1, 2022. Elizabeth Doerr shares eight auspicious examples here.

Audemars Piguet Introduces the All-New 37 mm Royal Oak Ref. 15550 SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Introduces Jan 28, 2022

Audemars Piguet Introduces the All-New 37 mm Royal Oak Ref. 15550

With 2022 being the 50th anniversary of the Royal Oak, Audemars Piguet has already launched a slew of new models barely a month into the year. While the headline watches are no doubt the Royal Oak “Jumbo” ref. 16202 and its skeletonised sibling, the Royal Oak Selfwinding 37 mm ref. 15550 is a more accessible watch, both in terms of price and availability. It too gets an upgrade for the 50th anniversary in the form of a new movement, the cal. 5900, along with a revamped case, dial, and bracelet. Initial thoughts As familiar as it might seem, the ref. 15550 received as complete a makeover as possible while still retaining the trademark design. Individually the changes are minor but together they create a watch that looks and feels better than the previous version of the mid-size Royal Oak. The tweaks can be spotted even at arm’s length, including the streamlined dial that has been cleaned up to reduce the text, giving it a look similar to that found on the latest-generation Royal Oak 41 mm ref. 15500. The newly minimalist dial works especially well with the mid-size case, with the empty space looking just right. In contrast, the dial style seems almost bland on its larger counterpart. Two lines of text have been eliminated: “AP” at 12 o’clock and “AUTOMATIC” at six The case and bracelet also get their own nips and tucks, though the alterations are far more subtle. Amongst the changes are slightly wider bevels along the edge of the case, making it seem to tap...

Chess Moves: What The January 2022 Sale Of Ulysse Nardin And Girard-Perregaux Have To Do With Brioni Quill & Pad
Girard-Perregaux Have Jan 27, 2022

Chess Moves: What The January 2022 Sale Of Ulysse Nardin And Girard-Perregaux Have To Do With Brioni

On January 24, 2022, two Swiss watch brands, Ulysse Nardin and Girard-Perregaux, were reorganized in response to men’s fashion developments in Rome, Italy. In a vacuum, it is hard to see how one would lead to the other: their connection is the Kering group. And then there's LVMH, but how does that group fit in here? Professor of economics Brendan Cunningham offers some thoughts on how all of this might just go together.