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Inside The Wonderful World Of Audemars Piguet During Watches And Wonders 2026 Fratello
Audemars Piguet During Watches Apr 30, 2026

Inside The Wonderful World Of Audemars Piguet During Watches And Wonders 2026

Audemars Piguet was back in Geneva after a seven-year absence, and it felt like it had never left. A watch salon at which the biggest and most prestigious watch companies strut their stuff just isn’t the same without AP. And that’s why its return to the show felt so natural. But while every other participant […] Visit Inside The Wonderful World Of Audemars Piguet During Watches And Wonders 2026 to read the full article.

Introducing: The Bradley Taylor Ardea Hodinkee
Patek Philippe Level II service certification Apr 29, 2026

Introducing: The Bradley Taylor Ardea

What We Know Bradley Taylor, a Canadian independent watchmaker working out of a 1,000-square-foot workshop in North Vancouver, has released the Ardea, his third watch and first with an in-house movement. Taylor, a rising talent in the space, trained in Le Locle under Henrik Korpela, earned a Patek Philippe Level II service certification in Geneva, and produced two sold-out series before beginning work on the Ardea in late 2023. The Ardea is offered in stainless steel or platinum 950 and measures 37.8mm in diameter with a 46.4mm lug-to-lug and a thickness of 10.9mm, including the crystals. The sapphire caseback is very slightly domed for wrist comfort, and the watch is rated to 5 ATM.  The dial is 925 sterling silver, engine-turned on a rose engine that Taylor estimates is roughly 120 years old, and he restored it over three months. The pattern is a 36-scallop rosette with a progressive phase shift between each concentric pass, producing a characterful swirling texture. After the engraving, the dial is depletion-gilded, a silversmithing process that involves repeated heating and acid treatment until the dial's surface is pure silver. It is then sealed with Zapon lacquer. The text and markings are pad-printed on a Tampoprint machine that Taylor also restored himself. The applied numerals are machined from solid platinum and hand-polished to a spherical shape. The dial lettering and wordmark were designed by Ian Brignell, a Toronto typographer whose work includes the Paramou...

Early Audemars Piguet Single-Button Chronograph Wristwatch Emerges at Christie’s Geneva SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Single-Button Chronograph Wristwatch Emerges Apr 28, 2026

Early Audemars Piguet Single-Button Chronograph Wristwatch Emerges at Christie’s Geneva

One of the highlights in Christie’s upcoming Geneva auctions taking place on May 11, 2026, is the Audemars Piguet “Coussin Tortue” single-button chronograph wristwatch, serial number 41’849. It is an exceedingly rare watch, being one of a batch of three examples that were the first ever chronograph wristwatches made by Audemars Piguet (AP). Moreover, the watch has been in the same family since new, and is consigned by a descendent of the original owner who bought the watch in 1943. Also notably is the fact that this watch has been comprehensively – but sympathetically and artfully – restored by AP. This “cushion turtle” wristwatch has a platinum case and two-tone, solid gold dial, while the movement is a LeCoultre, just like the others in the batch of three watches. The first of the three was in white gold, following by two in platinum, including this example. Interestingly, this watch was delivered to retailer Veuve Louis Goering in La Chaux-de-Fonds in 1937, but only sold six years later. The tepid demand for such watches perhaps explains why, according to Christie’s, AP made a total of six single-button chronograph wristwatch movements, but the remaining three were only cased and sold over a decade after this one. Restored perfectly Besides being extremely rare and also unexpectedly beautiful, this watch stands out for having been enjoyed “extensive” restoration at Audemars Piguet. Ordinarily restoration would be frowned upon, but the watch was pre...

Cartier Highlights Some Luxurious Bracelets with their Watches & Wonders Releases Worn & Wound
Cartier Highlights Some Luxurious Bracelets Apr 28, 2026

Cartier Highlights Some Luxurious Bracelets with their Watches & Wonders Releases

The Cartier appointment at Watches & Wonders this year was, as always, a dizzying experience. The incredible breadth of the collection is unlike anything you’ll see at Palexpo during Watches & Wonders week, and it always amazes me how freely these incredibly valuable, intricate creations are freely passed around a table of watch media types to handle, photograph, and try on. It would be absolutely impossible to run down everything we were shown in our meeting, but I keep coming back to a selection of releases that zero in on Cartier’s unique bracelet making capabilities.  This is not something I normally expect from Cartier, but maybe I should. I think for the most part we recognize Cartier as masters of design and shape – there have been so many great case designs over the brand’s history it’s impossible to recount them all here. Some have become genuinely iconic and some have been a bit lost to history, but their ingenuity and creativity is second to none and they have the reputation they deserve as a design first brand for good reason.  In our mind’s eye, collectively, we typically see these watches on straps. But for certain references a bracelet is key to understanding not just the visual design language, but in how these watches wear. Because a great bracelet doesn’t complete the look of a watch, it makes or breaks the experience of having it on your wrist, and can take a watch from being a beautiful design object to something you’d actually want to...

Observations and Takeaways at Watches & Wonders 2026 SJX Watches
Rolex as it always does Apr 27, 2026

Observations and Takeaways at Watches & Wonders 2026

The biggest booth at Watches & Wonders 2026 (W&W;) belonged to Rolex, as it always does. Looming three stories high, the Rolex booth was home to some of the most talked-about and polarising watches of the fair, as it always is. Rolex took the occasion of the centenary of its water-resistant Oyster case to roll out a line-up of surprising watches, perhaps the most unexpected from Rolex in a while. The collection included a Daytona with a fired enamel dial, Boetti-esque Oyster Perpetual, and a return of the little-loved but technically impressive Yachtmaster II. The vast, three-story Rolex booth. Image – Watches & Wonders In a first, Rolex gave its popular sports chronograph a vitreous enamel dial, or grand feu enamel in watchmaking parlance. The industrial and engineering achievement is impressive; it’s not just a new livery and this Daytona is more than meets the eye. The enamel is melted glass, as is tradition, but instead of a metal base, the enamel is on a ceramic substrate that is in turn mounted on a brass plate. While there is some debate whether the ceramic substrate makes it enamel in the traditional sense of the word, I consider it enamel. The new enamel dial harks back to the “porcelain” dial Daytona of yore More importantly, the key characteristic of the dial is thinness, recording-setting thinness in fact, which means that Rolex has achieved an enamel dial with all of the qualities of enamel, lustre, fade-resistance, colour, without compromising thicknes...

Hands-On With The Roger Dubuis Excalibur Biretrograde Calendar In Steel During Watches And Wonders 2026 Fratello
Roger Dubuis Excalibur Biretrograde Calendar Apr 27, 2026

Hands-On With The Roger Dubuis Excalibur Biretrograde Calendar In Steel During Watches And Wonders 2026

Now you can get the characteristic features without the exorbitant price. Well, the Poinçon de Genève-certified Roger Dubuis Excalibur Biretrograde Calendar in steel is hardly a cheap watch, but it is the gateway to the Roger Dubuis universe. And what a way to enter the world of hand-crafted high horology it is. With its 40 […] Visit Hands-On With The Roger Dubuis Excalibur Biretrograde Calendar In Steel During Watches And Wonders 2026 to read the full article.

Hands On: Patek Philippe Nautilus Ref. 5610P and Vacheron Constantin Overseas Ultra-Thin SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Overseas Ultra-Thin Comparison Apr 27, 2026

Hands On: Patek Philippe Nautilus Ref. 5610P and Vacheron Constantin Overseas Ultra-Thin

Comparison is often said to be the thief of joy, but the numerous attributes of the Patek Philippe Nautilus ref. 5610P and Vacheron Constantin Overseas Self-Winding Ultra-Thin ref. 2500v are arguably best understood in a side-by-side format. The watches are extraordinarily similar — each watch features a platinum case and bracelet, a slim micro-rotor automatic movement, and a rare two-hand, no-date configuration. Beyond their tangible similarities, both watches are limited editions priced within 7% of one another, and were launched to mark milestone anniversaries of their respective collections. Initial thoughts Rarely do rival brands treat collectors to such a perfect match-up. Patek Philippe and Vacheron Constantin could hardly have done more to go toe-to-toe, and have unexpectedly made 2026 the golden age of the platinum sports watch. The original Patek Philippe Nautilus from 1976 was provocative precisely because it was made in steel at a time when ‘high-end’ still meant precious metal. Five decades later, the steel sports watch trend has arguably peaked, making the stealthy platinum ref. 5610P a fitting tribute. It captures the look of the original without diluting its legacy with yet another steel variant. While Vacheron Constantin has dabbled in steel sports watches since as far back as 1977 with the 222, the Overseas collection only debuted in 1996. Now in its third generation, the Overseas has evolved into a substantive rival to both the Patek Philippe Nauti...

Hands On: Dominique Renaud Pulse 60 SJX Watches
Apr 27, 2026

Hands On: Dominique Renaud Pulse 60

Accomplished movement constructor Dominique Renaud makes a compelling return with the Pulse 60, a slow-beating timepiece featuring a 1 Hz oscillator. An important name in the post-quartz era, Mr Renaud has recently re-emerged alongside Julien Tixier under the Renaud Tixier brand. The Pulse 60 marks his first signed watch in nearly a decade — following the million-dollar DR01 Twelve First, which resulted in a single unique piece. Initial thoughts When speaking today of advancing the theory and practice of horology, the conversation usually centres around cutting-edge materials, novel tribology research or reimagined complications. The Dominique Renaud (DR) Pulse 60 contradicts this trend and instead goes back in time to put a new spin on an old idea.  The slow beating 1 Hz Pulse 60 bets on classic chronometry, when heavy balances paired to slow and steady running rates were the champions of precision. Going one step further, DR slowed the oscillator to 1 Hz — or just one oscillation per second. In the era of ever-higher frequencies, the counterintuitive choice seems at first like a deliberate act of self-sabotage.  But after analysing the novel movement in the Pulse 60, it’s my opinion that it should prove to be a reliable timekeeper, and more than just a proof of concept. After Antoine Martin’s ill-fated Slow Runner, DR has produced a fully functioning 1 Hz timepiece by employing a smaller balance and — crucially — raising the amplitude ceiling to over 360°....

Sunday Morning Showdown: Nomos Club Sport Neomatik Worldtimer Vs. Frederique Constant Classic Worldtimer Manufacture Fratello
Frederique Constant Classic Worldtimer Manufacture It’s Apr 26, 2026

Sunday Morning Showdown: Nomos Club Sport Neomatik Worldtimer Vs. Frederique Constant Classic Worldtimer Manufacture

It’s Sunday morning, which means it’s time for a nice cup of coffee and an early morning watch battle. On top of that, this is the first one after Watches and Wonders 2026 officially ended. This week has predominantly been one of reflecting on the new introductions and, for the Fratello team members who were […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Nomos Club Sport Neomatik Worldtimer Vs. Frederique Constant Classic Worldtimer Manufacture to read the full article.

Watches, Stories, & Gear: Tim Cook Steps Down, a James Brand Favorite Gets an Upgrade, and Amazing Photos From Artemis II Worn & Wound
Apr 25, 2026

Watches, Stories, & Gear: Tim Cook Steps Down, a James Brand Favorite Gets an Upgrade, and Amazing Photos From Artemis II

“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear. Artemis II Flyby Photos It’s easy to plunge oneself into the nihilism that is our current political landscape, but the photos taken during the Artemis II mission offered something of an unfamiliar sensation upon viewing them. What was it…I can almost put my finger on it…oh yeah, a sense of hope.  Taken during Artemis II’s seven-hour flyby around the Moon on April 6, these images show the lunar far side in remarkable detail, along with an in-space solar eclipse. While, of course, this feat in itself is impressive, there was something else that seemed to touch the hearts and imagination of us back on Earth – a trust in science, a camaraderie with our Canadian neighbors (one of the astronauts on board was Jeremy Hansen with the Canadian Space Agency), and a change in perspective that, no matter what’s buzzing in the news cycle, we really are just a little blue marble rolling around the universe. Beef, Season 2 Netflix’s original series Beef is back for a second season, garnering similar critical acclaim as its first. This season, we meet an all-new cast, including Oscar Isaac, Carey Mulligan, Charles Melton, and Cailee Spaeny, and an all-new drama, focused ...

Watches & Wonders: Nomos Introduces the Club Sport neomatik Worldtimer in a Classic Colorway Worn & Wound
Nomos Introduces Apr 24, 2026

Watches & Wonders: Nomos Introduces the Club Sport neomatik Worldtimer in a Classic Colorway

A year removed from last year’s Watches & Wonders, it’s clear that Nomos had the accessible watch of the show, and maybe of the year, with the Club Sport neomatik Worldtimer. Introduced initially in rhodium plated silver and blue dial executions, along with a handful of limited edition colorways that turned out to be incredibly highly sought after, the new Nomos Worldtimer became a bit of a phenomenon among a certain type of watch enthusiast. Over the course of the last year, we’ve seen Nomos return to the Worldtimer a few times with new limited editions, always appearing to sell out quickly. Given the appetite for this watch, it’s no wonder that Nomos would go back to the well a year later to introduce yet another variant. This one, though, immediately feels like the colorway that should have existed all along.  The new Club Sport neomatik Worldtimer in a white silver plated dial is a permanent addition to the collection. And it should be – this is basically the colorway that defined Nomos through their early years, and the period of time where they really grew as an enthusiast driven brand across the larger Watch Internet. This simple silvery white is, for most people, the dial color they imagine in their head when they close their eyes and think of a Nomos. It’s simple, minimal, and very much core to the Nomos brand identity. While they’ve certainly become known in recent years as being more freely experimental with color (to great effect – I own a mult...

Bring a Loupe: A White-Gold Vacheron Constantin, An IWC Mark XII, And A Cartier Bamboo Coussin Hodinkee
Vacheron Constantin Apr 24, 2026

Bring a Loupe: A White-Gold Vacheron Constantin, An IWC Mark XII, And A Cartier Bamboo Coussin

It was bound to happen. I've written nine Bring a Loupes, covering 38 watches (excluding Strays or Buyer Beware watches). Two weeks back, I picked a clunker of a Doxa Sub 300T, which, among other issues, had the wrong hands (I'd actually been more concerned with the dial), and in my enthusiasm for vintage Doxa divers, I screwed up and included it. My apologies, though, as Coleman Hawkins consoles, "If you aren't making mistakes, you aren't really trying." Scorekeeping the picks from two weeks ago, the Esso Breguet sold for €15,2000, the Juvenia Arithmo's still available, the Blancpain Bund sold for €15,500, the Doxa Sub 300T passed, the Chaumet sells Friday afternoon and has been bid to $12,000 at the time of writing, and the black dialed Seamaster sold for CHF 1,000. Strays A Universal Genève Railrouter. For sale on OmegaForums. A Gübelin Cioccolatone at Monaco Legend this weekend. For absolutely no reason whatsoever, here's a lovely Doxa Sub 300. As Stefon (from SNL) would say, this watch has it all: original (correct!) black hands, no-T dial, signed expandro bracelet and screw-down crown, and, of course, the OG thin case. These early thin-cased Doxa Sub 300s were made for only a year, and aside from minor paint loss on the bezel, this looks like an excellent example. If the Doxa's not your flavor and/or diving's not your bag, maybe this UG Railrouter'll do it for you. I have an overdeveloped fondness for railroad watches, which fondness is equaled by my appreciati...

Unpacking Patek Philippe’s Latest Novelties from the 50th Anniversary of the Nautilus and Beyond Worn & Wound
Patek Philippe s Latest Novelties from Apr 23, 2026

Unpacking Patek Philippe’s Latest Novelties from the 50th Anniversary of the Nautilus and Beyond

Perhaps only second to Rolex, Patek Philippe’s novelties rank among some of the most highly anticipated at each year’s Watches & Wonders. The maison (like Rolex) is one of a select few brands that notoriously keeps its models under strict lock and key until the fair. Despite receiving the press kit in our inboxes that fateful morning, we all know nothing really compares to seeing the watches in the metal. Once you’ve been attending Watches & Wonders for many years, you know the Patek Philippe choreography well. The booth is one of the sleekest and most well-appointed each year, standing brightly lit and with a commanding presence directly across from the moodier Rolex outpost. As you pass through the threshold, you’re met with a warm and serene vibe that may surprise some for such a prestigious and traditional brand. After mingling with representatives from every major U.S. media outlet, you’re all ushered into the expansive roundtable room at the back of the booth. Here, you must choose your seat carefully in front of the covered tray you hope will reveal the novelty you’re most excited to see. At the moment of the grand unveiling, gloved experts from the maison lift the coverings off the trays in perfect synchronicity, marking the start of the dance, which moves counterclockwise around each station featuring a different watch family. This year, I choose well, beginning my journey with the 50th anniversary Nautilus models. Here, we have three new executions of...

Introducing: The Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical 36mm Fratello
Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical 36mm Apr 23, 2026

Introducing: The Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical 36mm

With the Khaki Field Mechanical 36mm, Hamilton revives a lesser-known U.S. military navigator’s watch from around 1970. While a niche reference, even by Khaki Field standards, it’s one that makes a lot of sense in today’s smaller-watch landscape. The good news here is that Hamilton stays rather true to the original spec. Cool stuff! This […] Visit Introducing: The Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical 36mm to read the full article.

Does The New Off-Catalog Rolesium Rolex Cosmograph Daytona Really Have A Grand Feu Enamel Dial? Fratello
Rolex Cosmograph Daytona Really Have Apr 23, 2026

Does The New Off-Catalog Rolesium Rolex Cosmograph Daytona Really Have A Grand Feu Enamel Dial?

There’s nothing like a bit of confusion when it comes to terminology used in the description of watches. There’s something better, however - confusion caused by Rolex watches. At this year’s Watches and Wonders, the dial of an exclusive offering caused a bit of a storm in the watch community because of the use of […] Visit Does The New Off-Catalog Rolesium Rolex Cosmograph Daytona Really Have A Grand Feu Enamel Dial? to read the full article.

First Look – The New TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 500 Date; Going Deeper, Staying Cool Monochrome
TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 500 Date Apr 23, 2026

First Look – The New TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 500 Date; Going Deeper, Staying Cool

With all the attention focused on the new and important TAG Heuer Monaco references (Steve McQueen and Evergraph), the introduction of the Aquaracer Professional 500 Date at Watches and Wonders 2026 was a quieter one. Still, with this new release, the brand fills a gap in its dive watch range. Positioned between the refined, everyday-capable […]

Fratello Talks: Watches And Wonders 2026 Debrief Fratello
Apr 23, 2026

Fratello Talks: Watches And Wonders 2026 Debrief

Another Watches and Wonders is in the books, and as always, it takes a moment to process everything. Between the main fair at Palexpo, meetings across Geneva, and visits to the various satellite events around the city, the week becomes a blur of watches, conversations, and quick (yet lasting) impressions. Only afterward do the highlights […] Visit Fratello Talks: Watches And Wonders 2026 Debrief to read the full article.

Watches & Wonders: Frederique Constant Offers a Smart Update to their Classic Worldtimer Manufacture Worn & Wound
Frederique Constant Offers Apr 22, 2026

Watches & Wonders: Frederique Constant Offers a Smart Update to their Classic Worldtimer Manufacture

Frederique Constant has built themselves a nice little niche delivering complicated watches at relatively affordable and impressive price points. While their perpetual calendar is probably the most impressive in terms of straight up value (somehow it still comes in under $10,000, even after years of rising prices throughout the sector) it’s the Worldtimer Manufacture that is likely their true signature. It’s a genuinely accessible complication that, at the time it was introduced, was novel in a watch well under the five figure mark.  Over the years there have been a number of variants introduced, but little has changed as far as the actual execution of the watch. That changes with the introduction of a trio of new worldtimers, all sporting the new manufacture movement, designated FC-719. The new caliber allows two nagging issues to be addressed: case size and dial clutter.  If you’re familiar with Frederique Constant’s Worldtimer Manufacture, you’ve likely already noticed that the large subdial at 6:00 displaying the date has been completely removed. A no-date worldtimer is a big change, but there’s no denying that the dial is significantly cleaner without the date. It allows the dial motif, a representation of a globe, common enough on these watches, to fully stand on its own. Dial options for this refreshed worldtimer include a limited diamond set version, a version on a strap with iridescent blue ocean waters, and a bracelet version with a more matte blue ...

Business News: Timothée Chalamet Joins Urban Jürgensen As Minority Partner And Creative Advisor Hodinkee
Urban Jürgensen Apr 22, 2026

Business News: Timothée Chalamet Joins Urban Jürgensen As Minority Partner And Creative Advisor

Timothée Chalamet has gotten really deep into independent watchmaking lately. He's shown up at press events, basketball games, and on the red carpet, wearing everything from a Simon Brette to a Franck Muller and even an Akrivia AK-06. He's also been wearing a neo-vintage Urban Jürgensen from time to time. But it seems like he's always rotated back to his trusty Urban Jürgensen UJ-2, the time-only watch that launched with the brand's revival last summer. He wore the watch promoting the movie Marty Supreme, and again later, when he won the Golden Globe for Best Male Actor in a Motion Picture – Musical or Comedy for that same film. And now, in a move that makes his passion for the brand official, he's gotten on board as a minority partner and creative advisor. Timothée Chalamet wears an Urban Jürgensen UJ-2 as he attends the 83rd annual Golden Globe Awards at The Beverly Hilton on January 11, 2026 in Beverly Hills, California. (Photo by Kevin Mazur/Getty Images) In a press release provided by the brand, Alex Rosenfield, CEO of Urban Jürgensen, says that Chalamet's passion for independent watchmaking isn't just him hopping on a trend, but rather a part of his passion for craft and quality of work. "We want to work together to advance our mission of bringing a contemporary perspective to the world of independent watchmaking while remaining grounded in what has always defined it," says Rosenfield. The Urban Jürgensen UJ-2, UJ-1, and UJ-3, from our story on the brand rev...

Good Vibrations: Armin Strom reveals  the Minute Repeater Resonance 12:59 First Edition Quill & Pad
Armin Strom reveals  Apr 22, 2026

Good Vibrations: Armin Strom reveals  the Minute Repeater Resonance 12:59 First Edition

We all know that watchmakers love complications. Throughout history, the quest for ever greater chronometric precision has produced a wide range of mechanisms, like the tourbillon, which has been mastered by many and improved. The post Good Vibrations: Armin Strom reveals  the Minute Repeater Resonance 12:59 First Edition appeared first on Quill & Pad.

Hands On: Patek Philippe Calatrava 24-Hour Alarm 5322G SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Calatrava 24-Hour Alarm 5322G Apr 22, 2026

Hands On: Patek Philippe Calatrava 24-Hour Alarm 5322G

Patek Philippe’s mastery of complications is evident at all levels. The brand’s ability to elevate even simple complications is on full display in the Calatrava 24-Hour Alarm 5322G, a smaller and more focused take on the alarm watch than the discontinued spider-like Alarm Travel Time 5520P from 2019. This puts the most refined alarm movement on the market in the popular hobnail-flanked Calatrava case, capped with punchy green and blue fumé dials. Initial thoughts Launched in 2019, Patek Philippe’s Alarm Travel Time ref. 5520 was a polarising design from the start, with the appearance of four crowns - three of which were actually screw-locked pushers - when combined with the four lugs giving the watch an octopoid appearance. Looks aside, it was Patek Philippe’s first wristwatch with an alarm, and introduced a refined new calibre. This year Patek Philippe builds on that foundation without the travel time functionality and streamlined looks, eliminating the appearance of an awkward double crown setting system. There is no actual change to the base movement’s functionality - save the deletion of the travel time module. Perhaps a decade ago this bright green dial, or even the blue, would feel out of place in a high-grade watch, but today it fits right into the brand’s extremely colourful and contemporary catalogue. Even so, the dial design is sure to be polarising, especially the conflict between the 12 o’clock marker and alarm indicator, which the latter s...

Hands On: Patek Philippe Calatrava 24-Hour Alarm Ref. 5322G SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Calatrava 24-Hour Alarm Ref Apr 22, 2026

Hands On: Patek Philippe Calatrava 24-Hour Alarm Ref. 5322G

Patek Philippe’s mastery of complications is evident at all levels. The brand’s ability to elevate even simple complications is on full display in the Calatrava 24-Hour Alarm 5322G, a smaller and more focused take on the alarm watch than the discontinued spider-like Alarm Travel Time 5520P from 2019. This puts the most refined alarm movement on the market in the popular hobnail-flanked Calatrava case, capped with punchy green and blue fumé dials. Initial thoughts Launched in 2019, Patek Philippe’s Alarm Travel Time ref. 5520 was a polarising design from the start, with the appearance of four crowns - three of which were actually screw-locked pushers - when combined with the four lugs giving the watch an octopoid appearance. Looks aside, it was Patek Philippe’s first wristwatch with an alarm, and introduced a refined new calibre. This year Patek Philippe builds on that foundation without the travel time functionality and streamlined looks, eliminating the appearance of an awkward double crown setting system. There is no actual change to the base movement’s functionality - save the deletion of the travel time module. Perhaps a decade ago this bright green dial, or even the blue, would feel out of place in a high-grade watch, but today it fits right into the brand’s extremely colourful and contemporary catalogue. Even so, the dial design is sure to be polarising, especially the conflict between the 12 o’clock marker and alarm indicator, which the latter s...