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Above the Date Window: Steve McQueen's Monaco and What Sotheby's Catalogues Really Tell You

How a sliver of dial real estate above the date window decodes provenance on every screen-worn Heuer Monaco that has passed through Sotheby's and Phillips.

Omega Unveils the Speedmaster Calibre 321 in Canopus Gold SJX Watches
Omega Unveils Jan 4, 2022

Omega Unveils the Speedmaster Calibre 321 in Canopus Gold

Omega’s opening act for the year is a splendid reinterpretation of the first-ever Speedmaster, the ref. 2915-1 of 1957. More accurately, it’s a splendidly luxurious take on the vintage original. The Speedmaster Calibre 321 in Canopus Gold is equipped with (almost) the same movement as the ref. 2915, and retains the same dimensions – but it’s entirely in Omega’s proprietary white gold alloy and enhanced with extras like an onyx dial and enamelled tachymeter scale. Entirely in Canopus gold, Omega’s own white gold alloy Initial thoughts Omega is starting 2022 in a big way with a heavyweight timepiece that perfectly encapsulate the brand’s historical greatness – which naturally means a Speedmaster. And it’s not just any Speedmaster, but arguably the ultimate iteration of the Moon Watch: the cal. 321 in a CK2915-1 case. The result is a watch that seems straight out of 1957 at a glance, but one that’s definitely heftier and shinier up close. The new Speedmaster does a good job at evoking a perfectly preserved example from the 1950s, thanks to clean dial that avoids faux patina. The purely modern aesthetic makes sense, since it gives the watch its own identity and clearly distinguishes it from the vintage originals and later remakes, most notably the 1957 Trilogy Speedmaster released in 2017 for the 60th anniversary of the model. That said, the new Speedmaster isn’t particularly creative – it does feel a little like yet another Speedmaster – since i...

Vacheron Constantin Introduces the Les Cabinotiers Grande Complication Bacchus SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Introduces Jan 4, 2022

Vacheron Constantin Introduces the Les Cabinotiers Grande Complication Bacchus

Vacheron Constantin is starting the year in a big way with the Les Cabinotiers Grande Complication Bacchus. A double-faced grand complication, the Bacchus is part of the brand’s annual collection of one-of-a-kind timepieces. The Bacchus ranks amongst the most complex watches produced by Vacheron Constantin, thanks to the cal. 2755 GC16 that’s made up of over 800 parts. Though the Geneva watchmaker has used variations of the same calibre in past watches, the Bacchus is unusual even amongst its siblings because of its case decoration, which includes both hand engraving and gem setting, forming a grapevine motif in relief on both sides of the case. The star chart display on the reverse of the Bacchus Initial thoughts The Bacchus is the sort of grand complication that makes a statement, belonging in the same category of watch as the Patek Philippe Sky Moon Tourbillon. It’s extremely large, very complex, and impossible to miss on the wrist. Though a one-off creation, the Bacchus is not the first two-faced grand complication from Vacheron Constantin. In fact, several past models, notably the Phoenix of 2018, have contained variations of the same calibre found in the Bacchus. But the Bacchus has a unique decoration, in fact one of the most elaborate to date. The minute repeater is activated by turning the bezel, leaving the case free of a traditional slide Vacheron Constantin’s grand complications are frequently engraved, but Bacchus seems to be the first – or at least...

Biondi-Santi Brunello Di Montalcino: One Of The World’s Great Wine Estates And One With An Extraordinary History Quill & Pad
Jan 3, 2022

Biondi-Santi Brunello Di Montalcino: One Of The World’s Great Wine Estates And One With An Extraordinary History

Ken Gargett recently had the good fortune to partake in a wine-tasting lunch with well-heeled friends and judge who brought the best wines. The best (though there was some controversy) was a 1989 Krug champagne. But there was no debate over the best red: a 2010 Biondi-Santi Brunello di Montalcino from Tuscany. Here he shares some of the fascinating history of Biondi-Santi and its wines.

“Last year reaffirmed to me the psychological value of wearing a watch” – Luke’s favourite watches of 2021 Time+Tide
Jan 3, 2022

“Last year reaffirmed to me the psychological value of wearing a watch” – Luke’s favourite watches of 2021

Last year, as Melbourne achieved the dubious victory of edging out Buenos Aires to endure the longest hard lockdown in the world, I was mostly working from home. Dear reader, it’s fair to say that during this period, sartorial standards took a sharp nosedive. I couldn’t get a haircut for almost five months and, at … ContinuedThe post “Last year reaffirmed to me the psychological value of wearing a watch” – Luke’s favourite watches of 2021 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Record auction prices, crazy hype, growing waiting lists… Are luxury watches becoming more popular? An economics professor crunches the numbers Time+Tide
Jan 2, 2022

Record auction prices, crazy hype, growing waiting lists… Are luxury watches becoming more popular? An economics professor crunches the numbers

Editor’s note: Brendan Cunningham is a Professor of Economics at Eastern Connecticut State University and the man behind Horolonomics, a blog that explores the economic issues in watchmaking. Are watches really gaining in popularity?  The answer may seem obvious.  Auction houses and certain watch designs are setting all kinds of records.  Wait lists for hype timepieces … ContinuedThe post Record auction prices, crazy hype, growing waiting lists… Are luxury watches becoming more popular? An economics professor crunches the numbers appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: The Hublot One Click Range explores the Swiss brand’s feminine side Time+Tide
Hublot One Click Range explores Dec 25, 2021

HANDS-ON: The Hublot One Click Range explores the Swiss brand’s feminine side

Hublot has a reputation that it upholds firmly. It’s one of masculinity, industrial design, and a sporty capability reinforced by adorning the wrists of celebrity athletes. While this reputation has been integral to their personality since their rise in the 1980s, this love-it-or-hate-it image has caused a massive divide amongst watch fans. Even their Millennial … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Hublot One Click Range explores the Swiss brand’s feminine side appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Vacheron Constantin Introduces the Traditionnelle Complete Calendar Openface SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Introduces Dec 24, 2021

Vacheron Constantin Introduces the Traditionnelle Complete Calendar Openface

One of Vacheron Constantin’s more affordable complicated timepieces, the Traditionnelle Complete Calendar was recently refreshed with a smartly minimalist palette of white gold and grey. And the watchmaker has quickly followed up with the Traditionnelle Complete Calendar Openface, which is more striking – with more complicated aesthetics – thanks to a see-through dial that reveals the calendar works. Initial thoughts Eminently different from the standard version, the Openface is a strong addition to the brand’s calendar line up, especially for those who find the standard models too simple in style – it has a notably unique aesthetic. The new look is the result of a surprisingly simple upgrade. Instead of a skeletonised movement – which is the norm for open-faced watches but far more costly – this has a transparent dial that showcases the intricate wheels and jumpers of the calendar module. Simple as it is, the Openface is nevertheless thoughtfully executed. In typical Vacheron Constantin fashion, attention has been paid to the details in both design and finish to create a pleasing, refined look. One example is the upper section of the dial that’s finished with a radial guilloche, which contrasts with the lower portion in sapphire, giving it visual definition (while also highlighting the branding). The hour markers are secured with feet on both ends, instead of being cantilevered, for extra stability And despite the complex appearance, legibility has prese...

Philippe Dufour’s Reaction To The CHF 11,494,000 Auction Results Of His Grande Et Petite Sonneries, Duality, And Simplicity Plus A Hint Of Something New (Video) Quill & Pad
Dec 21, 2021

Philippe Dufour’s Reaction To The CHF 11,494,000 Auction Results Of His Grande Et Petite Sonneries, Duality, And Simplicity Plus A Hint Of Something New (Video)

In this video, Philippe Dufour and Claude Sfeir discuss the results of the November 2021 Phillips auction featuring the Grande et Petite Sonnerie No. 1 pocket watch (1989), the Grande et Petite Sonnerie wristwatch (1992), the Duality (1996), and the Simplicity (2004). And they drop a hint that something new might well be in the works.

VIDEO: The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore 43mm in titanium – less large, still very much in charge Time+Tide
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore 43mm Dec 21, 2021

VIDEO: The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore 43mm in titanium – less large, still very much in charge

Audemars Piguet have definitely thought outside of the box with many of their recent designs, such as the Code 11:59, Royal Oak Concepts, and the Black Panther, leveraging their traditional know-how to create modern timepieces the other Holy Trinity brands would never dream up. But they also understand when it is time to refine rather … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore 43mm in titanium – less large, still very much in charge appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.