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Fratello Favorites: The Best Summer Watches At Three Different Price Points - Daan’s Picks From Seiko, Ressence, Rolex, And More Fratello
Ressence Rolex Jul 19, 2024

Fratello Favorites: The Best Summer Watches At Three Different Price Points - Daan’s Picks From Seiko, Ressence, Rolex, And More

Yes, it’s time to talk about watches for summer because that is indeed the season we’re in right now. This series is a nice reminder of that because the weather gods haven’t shown us any summer yet here in the Netherlands. I keep telling my six-year-old daughter that we’re actually in the middle of summer […] Visit Fratello Favorites: The Best Summer Watches At Three Different Price Points - Daan’s Picks From Seiko, Ressence, Rolex, And More to read the full article.

Visiting the Vacheron Constantin Manufacture SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Manufacture Jul 19, 2024

Visiting the Vacheron Constantin Manufacture

The Plan-les-Ouates district of Geneva is well-known for its concentration of watchmaking facilities, earning it the nickname “Plan-les-Watch”. But the standout structure is arguably the Vacheron Constantin (VC) manufacture, which houses both management functions and production under one roof – or more specifically, under one curving metal skin that wraps over the top of the building from east to west. The area’s other prominent residents include Rolex, Patek Philippe, and Piaget, but you can also find numerous other brands like Frederique Constant, Harry Winston, and Laurent Ferrier clustered together in what feels like a large office park. “Plan-les-Watch” is where most of the actual watchmaking in Geneva gets done, since most brands have relocated their production facilities to the suburbs over time, leaving FP Journe as the only industrial operation in the city’s historic center. And it is here that power is expressed through architecture, from the imposing black glass facade of the Rolex building to the superyacht-like decks that wrap around the Patek Philippe manufacture. The reception at the manufacture. Image – Vacheron Constantin Completed in 2005 to celebrate VC’s 250th anniversary, the Vacheron Constantin building was designed by Bernard Tschumi Architects as a single building. A second wing was then added by the same firm in 2014, increasing both production space and staff amenities.  A key emphasis of the building is lighting, with expansive...

Breitling Teams Up with NBA Superstar Giannis Antetokounmpo SJX Watches
Breitling Teams Up Jul 19, 2024

Breitling Teams Up with NBA Superstar Giannis Antetokounmpo

Breitling’s latest collaboration is a pair of limited-edition Chronomats conceived together with Giannis Antetokounmpo, the Greek-Nigerian basketballer who plays for the NBA’s Milwaukee Bucks. The entry-level model is the Chronomat Automatic GMT 40 Giannis Antetokounmpo in stainless steel, an edition of 1,750 pieces. And then there’s the Chronomat B01 42 Giannis Antetokounmpo in 18k red gold that’s limited to 250. Both share the same dial with baton indices, finished in a green reminiscent of the Milwaukee Bucks’ team colours. And NBA superstar himself gets a unique creation: an all-red gold Chronomat B01 42 with the same green dial but with the registers and flange in contrasting white, along with Eastern-Arabic numerals (pictured above). Initial thoughts The Giannis Antetokounmpo editions are essentially identical to the respective standard Chronomat models, save for the dial colour that’s  a brighter shade of green, along with the basketballer’s discreet “GA” as the second hands counterweight. The chronograph has the addition of a basketball emblem on the seconds register. The basketball elements in the design are minimal, so the two are a good cosmetic alternative to the standard models, even for someone who doesn’t follow basketball since the sport. That’s especially so since the Giannis Antetokounmpo editions are priced the same as the standard models: the GMT costs US$6,150, while the B01 chronograph is US$42,500 on the red gold Rouleaux brac...

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Citizen Celebrating 35 Years Jul 18, 2024

Recapping Windup in a Lake 2024 Presented by Citizen Celebrating 35 Years of Promaster

In 1971, banker-turned-explorer Peter Gimbel set out on a 5-month voyage aboard the Terrier VIII to be the first person in the world to capture a Great White shark on film. He cobbled together an eclectic team for this adventure, including everyone from conservationists and shark experts to filmmakers and writers. This expedition resulted in the documentary film Blue Water, White Death, which has since become a cult classic within the diving community, and features a slew of very unique, very 70s dive watches to boot. Among the crew of early underwater luminaries (Stan Waterman, Ron and Valerie Taylor, anyone?), Gimbel also saw fit to hire budding singer/songwriter Tom Chapin along as a guitar-slinging jack of all trades, whereupon he became the natural soundtrack for the film. Tom’s role in this expedition is considered to be the inspiration for filmmaker Wes Anderson’s inclusion of Brazilian folk singer Seu Jorge in his sea-set feature The Life Aquatic with Steve Zissou. Both films result in support of an eternal truth, that the best boat rides are the ones with folk singers aboard. For the last three years, the Windup Watch Fair in Chicago has brought enthusiasts from as far south as Texas and from as far north as Canada to gather and geek out on watches from around the world. Beginning with the first year of Windup Chicago, a dedicated team of watch enthusiast divers started an adjacent activity, affectionately dubbed “Windup in a Lake.” Each year, this intrepi...

An Entirely New Watch Concept from Lebond Worn & Wound
Jul 18, 2024

An Entirely New Watch Concept from Lebond

If you choose to, it’s really easy to look around the watch industry and throw up your hands in frustration that there are no new ideas. Even as we move through a period of what many hardcore enthusiasts agree is a new Golden Age of inventiveness in the affordable watch space, there’s a lot of evidence that many are playing it safe. Brands both big and small, at all price points, tend to revert to proven formulas that they know will work for them. The idea, after all, is to sell watches, so you can’t really blame anyone for deciding to lean on past performance in the hopes that it will predict future success. But that makes a brand like Lebond that much more interesting. They’re not leaning on any proven formulas, and not only are they trying something genuinely different, but brand owner Asier Mateo is actually relinquishing control of the design of each piece year in and year out.  I would describe Lebond as a fairly high concept and niche brand. The style of these watches will not appeal to everyone, and collectors would seem to benefit from a long view of the brand – it will all make a lot more sense in five, ten, or twenty years, if all goes according to plan. The idea is relatively simple: each year, Lebond releases a new watch designed by a different well known architect. Mateo is an architect himself, and founded the brand as a vehicle to expose watch lovers to the work of the world’s most talented architects. Of course, he’s also aiming these watche...

Farer Combines the Monopusher Chronograph and GMT SJX Watches
Farer Combines Jul 18, 2024

Farer Combines the Monopusher Chronograph and GMT

Farer unveils the Monopusher GMT in two variants, Cobb and Segrave, names might be familiar to those following the brand, as they were also the names of its now-discontinued single-button chronograph models. The new Monopusher GMT offerings are essentially identical in design to their respective predecessors but now sport a second time zone. Both models share the same cushion-shaped stainless steel case, similar to that used for the Chronograph Hand-Wound, but thicker to accommodate the triple-stacked hands in the centre. Initial thoughts Micro brands occupy a unique niche in the market. They often equip their watches with no-frills but cost-efficient ETA or Selita calibres, or even cheaper movements, but set themselves apart aesthetically while excelling at marketing online. Farer is a perfect example of this, which is not necessarily a bad thing. The hand-wind Sellita calibre inside the Monopusher GMT is elaboré grade, but still basic. Farer, however, has done a good job at dressing it up. The Segrave on a “Milanese” bracelet And over on the front, the overall design is simple and clearly vintage inspired, but still manages to possess the Farer aesthetic thanks to its use of geometric shapes and primary colours. The cushion-shaped case has a familiar 1970s style, but it stands out with a knurled surface on the recessed case sides. Priced at US$2,195, the Farer Monopusher GMT is priced similar to its “micro” brand competitors but offers good value compared to e...

Video – A Closer Look at Laurent Ferrier’s Natural Escapement and the Micro-Rotor Movement Monochrome
Laurent Ferrier Jul 17, 2024

Video – A Closer Look at Laurent Ferrier’s Natural Escapement and the Micro-Rotor Movement

Today, for our latest in-depth video, we’re going technical. This is what MONOCHROME is all about, after all. Sharing the knowledge behind fine horology and understanding how our beloved mechanical watches actually work. Today’s topic is one dear to our hearts, as it combines everything we love in fine watchmaking: high-end finishing, mechanical ingenuity, profound […]

Insight: Governors of Minute Repeaters, Sonneries, and Other Striking Watches SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin cal 1731 Jul 17, 2024

Insight: Governors of Minute Repeaters, Sonneries, and Other Striking Watches

Repeaters are one of the most complicated mechanisms in watches and over the years the complication has been refined by successive generations of watchmakers. Now, perhaps more than ever, watchmakers dedicate absolute attention to perfecting the quality, speed, accuracy, and durability of the striking works. Various components are required to chime the tunes of time with hammers and gongs. Paradoxically, amongst the most crucial parts of a chiming watch are those that work quietly, or silently, in the background – the governor. One of the most recent new repeater calibres, the A. Lange & Söhne Richard Lange Minute Repeater What is a governor? The governor regulates the speed of the striking pattern, in other words the pace of the individual chimes. A repeater movement contains a separate gear train for the repeating works, which are powered by their own smaller, auxiliary spring. The last component of this train consists of the governor. The governor’s task is to introduce resistance in the repeater train, allowing it to be regulated. Therefore, less resistance accelerates the striking speed, while more resistance slows down the repeater chimes. The Vacheron Constantin cal. 1731 with the secondary spring visible between the hammers The fine-tuning of the repeater’s speed is prized as an essential factor in ensuring a perfect series of chimes. If the pace is too fast, the vibrations of the gongs produce jarring overtones that cancel each other out. If too slow, not o...

Watch Scrolling: Chris Antzoulis Picks Five Fun Instagram Accounts by Community Oriented Creators Worn & Wound
Jul 16, 2024

Watch Scrolling: Chris Antzoulis Picks Five Fun Instagram Accounts by Community Oriented Creators

It’s been just about a year since we last scrolled. But we’re back, flicking fingers and double tapping with more fervor than ever before. This series started as a way to try and avoid the horrors of losing oneself in doom scrolling through the vastness of Instagram, and to instead serve up a bounty of accounts worthy of your hearts and comments.  As Worn & Wound has broadened its reach, so have we in the depth of our scrolling. While watches may make us drool, we also like to indulge in other hobbies, as well as EDC. Today, contributor Chris Antzoulis picks five IG accounts that he thinks are worth a follow.  @sophies.watch.world   View this profile on Instagram   Sophie Cassaro (@sophies.watch.world) • Instagram photos and videos The world of watches doesn’t have to be so serious all the time, and Sophie routinely invites us into her world, through her Instagram and YouTube account, to share a bit of her wacky humor. Yet, she still manages to deliver on the history of different watches and brands, and brings up relevant questions for us to ponder. Whether it’s asking her followers if they’ve considered neo-vintage quartz watches, or if we’ve paid attention to how different brands choose to market their watches, it’s clear that Sophie wants us to question not only what we enjoy about the watch community, but why we enjoy it, and how we can make it better. And because she delivers the message in a digestible and fun way, it’s easy to engage with her....

Business News: Richemont First Quarter Results, Jewellery Faring Better Than Watches SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin were singled out Jul 16, 2024

Business News: Richemont First Quarter Results, Jewellery Faring Better Than Watches

The first quarter results of Richemont, the Swiss luxury group that just announced a new chief executive, illustrate a well-established trend in the luxury goods industry, with the group’s jewellery brands outperforming its watchmakers in the three months to end June 2024. Dominated by Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels, the Swiss group’s jewellery division eked out a 4% increase in sales, reflecting the strength of the group’s twin jewellery giants. Notably, the revenue growth was “supported by both jewellery and watches”, reflecting the brand equity of each jeweller has carried over into their respective watch offerings. The three jewellery brands – the smallest is Buccellati – accounted for 70% of Richemont’s turnover. Although profit was not announced, the jewellers are also responsible for an even greater share of the group’s profits. Watch weakness In contrast, the watch division saw revenue fall 13%. Amongst the division’s brands are IWC, Panerai, Piaget, and Jaeger-LeCoultre. Interestingly, A. Lange & Söhne and Vacheron Constantin were singled out for their “resilience”. Unsurprisingly, both are haute horlogerie brands that derive the highest proportion of revenue from in-house boutiques, as opposed to third-party retailers. Whether this resilience is durable is an open question, although odds are not in the brands’ favour given their respective product mix, sales strategies, and consumer sentiment. Only available at boutiques At a group leve...

Introducing – The Accessible Tissot Heritage 1938 COSC, Now in a Fresh White-Blue Edition Monochrome
Tissot Heritage 1938 COSC Now Jul 16, 2024

Introducing – The Accessible Tissot Heritage 1938 COSC, Now in a Fresh White-Blue Edition

Released last year, the Tissot Heritage 1938 COSC is a watch that’s hard to not objectively find brilliant. Combining a nice retro design with modern specs and a truly fair price, it even comes equipped with a chronometer-certified movement – making it one of the most accessible Swiss chronometers on the market. This handsome, affordable […]

Hands On: Tudor Black Bay 41 Ref. 7941A1A0NU SJX Watches
Tudor Black Bay 41 Ref Jul 16, 2024

Hands On: Tudor Black Bay 41 Ref. 7941A1A0NU

Among Tudor’s new releases for 2024, the most conservative is undoubtedly the Black Bay 41 METAS ref. 7941A1A0NU, which offers a monochrome, black-and-white alternative to the gilt-and-burgundy ref. M7941A1A0RU-0003 introduced last year. Initial thoughts The new Black Bay 41 (BB41) feels instantly familiar. In fact, it’s a little surprising that it wasn’t already in the collection, being about at straightforward as a contemporary dive watch can be. But what it lacks in surprise, it makes up for in simple, tangible quality. While the BB41 was the original Black Bay – launched a dozen years ago now – it now sits atop a range that also includes the smaller Black Bay 58 and even more compact Black Bay 54. The BB41 METAS’ dimensions of 41 mm by 13.6 mm thick mean it wears similar to a modern Rolex Submariner; those looking for vintage proportions should consider the BB58 and BB54. Of course, the big news is METAS certification for the MT5602-U movement, which now carries a “U” suffix to identify it as a METAS-certified Master Chronometer. The differences from the standard MT5602 used to date are likely minimal, since the movement has always had a silicon hairspring, one of the most important features for resisting the METAS standard’s 15,000 gauss anti-magnetism test. The difference, therefore, is that the movement’s high-performance specs have been confirmed by an independent test. Tudor is all about value, and the BB41 METAS is no exception. Available with...

A Look At The New Momentum UDT Eclipse Synch Solar Two Broke Watch Snobs
Jul 16, 2024

A Look At The New Momentum UDT Eclipse Synch Solar

Momentum has finally answered the call of watch enthusiasts and divers alike with the much-anticipated return of the UDT. For quite a while, fans have clamored for a reissue, and the new Momentum UDT looks like it's the kind of watch that won't disappoint. Momentum states that this modern iteration maintains its predecessor's robust, military-grade toughness while incorporating several thoughtful updates.

Astor+Banks Launches the Sea Ranger M2 Worn & Wound
Jul 15, 2024

Astor+Banks Launches the Sea Ranger M2

Astor+Banks has debuted the long awaited Sea Ranger M2, a watch that brand founder Andrew Perez has been working on, tinkering with, and previewing for over a year. At this weekend’s Windup Watch Fair in Chicago, he finally had production versions on display for all to see, and it was well worth the wait. It’s easily the most refined and well thought out watch in the Astor+Banks catalog, a natural evolution of what came before and a logical extension of the Sea Ranger line. This is a dual crown diver in four colorways: black, blue, army green, and a rich brown the brand refers to as “tobacco.” As you’d expect, one crown controls the time setting and winding duties, while the other rotates the internal bezel, which is lumed on all four variants. This is a really fun effect and the lume is applied liberally for a bright glow that will be genuinely useful in low light situations. The dials all have a matte finish.  The case is 40mm in diameter, 12.5mm tall, and 45.5mm lug to lug. On the wrist it feels very well proportioned, and the overall machining quality and finishing is top notch, and feels like a step up from previous Astor+Banks efforts. The bracelet is a match for the case in finishing quality and has a lovely taper from 20mm down to 16mm at the clasp. Astor+Banks, responding to feedback from collectors, is using the NodeX clasp by Nodus on the Sea Ranger M2, which offers easy micro-adjustments up to 10mm.  The Astor+Banks Sea Ranger M2 has a retail price ...

Christopher Ward Launches a New 38mm Version of The Twelve with the “Ice Cream Collection” Worn & Wound
Christopher Ward Launches Jul 15, 2024

Christopher Ward Launches a New 38mm Version of The Twelve with the “Ice Cream Collection”

In recent years, the Windup Watch Fair has played host to a number of notable debuts from some of our favorite watch brands. It’s a great time to launch a watch, after all. With hordes of watch enthusiasts descending on Chicago’s Venue West over the weekend, brands had a captive audience to launch splashy new releases. Christopher Ward, a Windup mainstay for years, keenly understands this, and jumped at the chance this weekend to debut colorful new versions of The Twelve in a new 38mm case size. The enthusiast favorite size rounds out a varied collection of integrated bracelet sports watches that have driven a lot of interest in the brand since they launched a little over a year ago, and Christopher Ward, as always, is having some fun with color in this new batch.  The brand has dubbed these the “Ice Cream Collection” for their bright colors, all of which are inspired by ice cream and thus feel perfectly timed as a summer watch release. The new, cleverly named colors are Biel-Berry, Mint 38, Peach Sellita, and Made in Mangohead. They all feature the now familiar Christopher Ward flag motif repeated across the dial, and come on integrated stainless steel bracelets as well as color matched rubber straps. We had a chance to see these in the metal in Chicago over the weekend, and, pardon the cliche watch writer terminology, the colors really do pop. My personal favorite is easily the Peach dial, but talking to fair attendees over the weekend it was clear that all of t...