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Time+Tide
While you might've heard of the Bambino or Mako, Buffy brings you the full-low-down on Orient.The post The ultimate Orient watch guide that demystifies the popular entry-level brand appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
H. Moser & Cie. is marking the 70th anniversary of its retailer in Southeast Asia with the Pioneer Perpetual Calendar Concept MD Purple Enamel Sincere Platinum Jubilee Edition. The first model in the Pioneer line to feature an enamel dial, this is also Moser’s inaugural venture into a grand feu enamel dial in purple fumé, which is translucent, smoked, and executed on an engraved dial base. It’s matched with a two-colour case of 18k red gold with titanium inserts treated with black diamond-like carbon (DLC), containing the manual-wind in-house HMC 808 movement that offers seven days of power reserve and more importantly, the brand’s innovative and concise perpetual calendar mechanism. Initial thoughts The new Pioneer perpetual it showcases typical Moser aesthetics and craft in a restrained style, with the details only apparent up close. At a distance the perpetual calendar is barely discernible with the dial having only the month and date along with two tiny pointers. But the purple flinqué enamel dial is stunning up close, with the textured surface showing through the translucent enamel. And the combination of the Pioneer case that’s rated to 120 m along with the fired enamel dial is unusual, giving the semi-sporty model a more refined aspect. Leaving aside the aesthetics, the watch is notable for the HMC 808 movement, still one of the cleverest perpetual calendar movements on the market two decades after its introduction. The case back is etched with the Sincer...
Fratello
With the summer holidays approaching, it’s time to talk about summer watches. Thomas started this series with his three favorite summer watches at three different price points. We are looking for one pick under €1,000, another under €10,000, and an unlimited-budget option. It seems like a fairly straightforward task, but as it turns out, it’s […] Visit Fratello Favorites: The Best Summer Watches At Three Different Price Points - Jorg’s Picks From Certina, Sinn, And Hublot to read the full article.
Monochrome
Considering how time is indicated on most watches – hands rotating 360-degree around the dial – it is no surprise that the vast majority of timepieces available on the market have round cases. But there is always room for creativity, originality and audacity. Watches don’t have to be round to be either striking or elegant. […]
Time+Tide
In the rising warmth of the European summer, new ocean-inspired watches are bringing a breath of fresh air to this torrid weather.The post New releases from Parmigiani Fleurier, Ulysse Nardin, Gerald Charles and more appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Deployant
The Tudor Black Bay Ceramic "Blue" is a notable addition to the Black Bay lineup, featuring a 41mm matte black ceramic case and a striking matte blue dial. This model retains the METAS-certified master chronometer MT5602-U1 movement, ensuring high precision and anti-magnetic properties. The watch is equipped with a hybrid leather and rubber strap, as well as a fabric strap, both complementing the blue dial.
Monochrome
Introduced in the 1970s during the rise of quartz movements, which were poised to dominate the industry, threatening to eclipse and eradicate mechanical mechanisms almost entirely, the ETA 2892 has become one of the most renowned and widely used self-winding calibres produced by the Swatch Group’s giant movement maker. Like the ETA 2824, the 2892 […]
Quill & Pad
One of the things Martin Green admires about Moser is that they seem to design each and every individual watch. The new Streamliner Tourbillon Wyoming Jade is a case in point.
Worn & Wound
We love quartz watches at Worn & Wound. For many of us, they were the first watches we ever wore, and represent a foundation of enthusiasm that has stretched on for years. There are many, many facets to quartz, and if you think of quartz watches simply as “affordable” alternatives to mechanical, you’re missing out on a lot of history, unique design, and special movements that simply aren’t possible with a mechanical caliber. One of my favorite little quartz rabbit holes is the output of traditional, high-end Swiss brands during the earliest days of the technology, leading up into the period often referred to as the “quartz crisis.” It’s fascinating to look back and see how these brands handled such a major shock to a centuries old industry, and the quartz watches produced by the most storied Swiss brands during this period are almost always significant, carrying with them design attributes that effectively distinguish them from traditional mechanical watches. The Girard-Perregaux Casquette is one of my favorite examples of a storied Swiss brand experimenting with quartz at the very beginning. The Casquette first appeared in 1976 and was brought back as the Casquete 2.0 in 2022 in a limited edition that quickly sold out to some degree of fanfare and acclaim. The watch has what is now frequently referred to as a “driver’s style” orientation, with an LED display that displays the time digitally when viewed from the side. In the mid-1970s, this certainly ...
Time+Tide
Marcus enlists Zach to help him navigate an astounding $680K worth of Laurent Ferrier sent to his studio for shooting.The post In the Metal: Marcus explores $680,000 worth of Laurent Ferrier appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Two Broke Watch Snobs
Christopher Ward has long been known for bridging the gap between high-end watches and accessibility. Their latest release, the C65 Super Compressor Elite, is a masterclass in this philosophy. A tribute to vintage dive watches, it blends cutting-edge technology with a nostalgic design that harkens back to the golden era of underwater exploration. Let’s dive into the details.
Monochrome
Let’s go straight to the point. Bremont, one of the foremost British watch brands, is changing. The founding brothers, Nick and Giles English, are no longer the faces of the company, which has had a new CEO for about a year now: Davide Cerrato. As expected, his arrival has meant a new strategy, starting with […]
SJX Watches
A new livery for one of Zenith’s most popular models, the Defy Skyline Skeleton White Ceramic shares the styling of its siblings like the Defy Skyline 36 mm but with a few notable tweaks including a white ceramic case and blue-treated skeletonised movement. And though it appears to be a simple time-only watch, the Defy Skyline features a discreet complication in the form of a “lightning” small seconds hand that completes one rotation every ten seconds. Initial thoughts Zenith has recently been playing it safe with new launches by building on current bestsellers, like the Defy Skyline. The new skeleton in white ceramic is a good looking watch, and an excellent execution of one of Zenith’s modern-day classics. The combination is also novel. Although each key element of the watch is common in itself – a skeleton movement plus the white ceramic case and bracelet – they are relatively uncommon together. The Defy Skyline Skeleton on the wrist However, the Defy Skyline arguably tries too hard to capitalise on the recent (and waning) popularity of integrated-bracelet sports watches. It is not difficult to see a resemblance to the Royal Oak, in particular the one-off Royal Oak made for Only Watch 2023, making it a bit cliché. Priced at US$17,500, the Defy Skyline Skeleton in white ceramic is a decent value proposition compared to similar watches, most of which are from pricier brands like Hublot or Audemars Piguet. Besides the ceramic case and bracelet, it stands out ...
Monochrome
German brand Stowa was founded in 1927 and became one of the five official suppliers of B-Uhren to the German Luftwaffe. Capitalising on the brand’s rich aviation history, Stowa, now in the hands of Tempus Arte Group, released its first batch of contemporary pilot’s watches in 1997. While the reissues capture the classic looks of […]
Worn & Wound
Whether you’re a seasoned high horology watch enthusiast, or a dedicated sports watch collector, everyone needs at least 1 or 2 easy to wear quartz watches. There are times when you don’t want something attention grabbing on your wrist, times when you’re in a rush out the door, and also some situations where you don’t want to risk damaging or getting a valuable watch unnecessarily dirty if you can avoid it. This is where the lovely quartz watch segment saves us. Not all Quartz watches fall into this ideology though, after all there are Quartz powered Royal Oaks and various other ultra high-end quartz watches that would serve no replacement as a beater watch. The watches we’re going to discuss today generally veer more towards affordability without compromise. These are watches that can be just as interesting as their mechanical counterparts – but they also serve as a “simple decision” watch, or perhaps just as a change of pace away from the mechanical theme within your personal collection. G-SHOCK GWM5610-1 ($150) Does G-SHOCK really need an introduction? Not really. This is a brand that’s become just as venerable as some of the most prestigious watch houses in the industry. They’ve built a name for themselves as being indestructible digital sports watches with resin cases that make excellent everyday wear watches. While the brand has a huge repertoire of models, some of them such as the GWM5610-1, truly stand out for their aesthetics as well as their...
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Monochrome
This spring, Montblanc introduced the latest addition to the Unveiled Minerva series, the Unveiled Minerva Monopusher Chronograph. Like the 2022-2023 releases, the Unveiled Secret Minerva Monopusher Chronographs, it showcases the beautiful mechanics of the underlying movement in an exciting and visually captivating way. The new Unveiled Minerva Monopusher Chronograph continues the inverted calibre concept with […]
Teddy Baldassarre
Many watch companies have a history of supplying timepieces for military units around the world, from Blancpain and Tudor’s dive watches for the French Navy to Hamilton’s field watches for World War II troops to IWC’s pilot watches for German and later British air forces. However, only one watch company has been an official supplier to the U.S. armed forces throughout nearly its entire existence, and it’s a company that many watch enthusiasts might be hearing about for the very first time: Marathon Watch Company. Read on for more background and a comprehensive rundown of the brand's collection. The Marathon Watch Company, one of the very few family-owned watch brands in existence and one of the even fewer based in Canada, traces its lineage all the way back to 1904. Its predecessor, the Weinstrum Watch Company, was founded by the Wein family, Russian immigrants who originally settled in New York City. (Another branch of the family changed their last name to “Wenger” and founded another Canadian watch business under that name, though it’s not to be confused with the better known Wenger company in Switzerland, today part of Victorinox.) In 1939, family scion Morris Wein carried on the family trade with the founding of Marathon, basing it not in New York but in Montreal, Canada, where the family had moved during the 1920s - not exactly a hotbed of watchmaking even at the time, but an ideal home base for the mission that the company began in 1941: supplying dep...
Fratello
We are still in the midst of the biggest small-sized revival of the decade, so surely all the bargains have already been snapped up? With patience, you’ll find hidden gems from the late ’90s to the end of the ’00s. But with many of these having been big-watch years, finding small but tough neo-vintage dive […] Visit Pre-Owned Spotlight: Five Small But Tough Neo-Vintage Dive Watches - Featuring TAG Heuer, Breitling, Cartier, And More to read the full article.
Monochrome
Founded in 1934, Airain was one of the original suppliers of the iconic Type 20 chronograph issued to French military pilots in the 1950s and 60s. The brand was dormant until its resurrection in 2020 by Dutch entrepreneur Tom van Wijlick, who also spearheaded the 2014 relaunch of Lebois & Co, which brought back the […]
Monochrome
Ulysse Nardin has always been associated with the sea, from its early days as a purveyor of precision marine chronometers to its current nautical-inspired collection, which includes classical references like the Marine Torpilleur or more contemporary, high-performance Divers. Offered in three case sizes, the more compact 39mm model returns with a stunning mottled neon blue […]
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Time+Tide
We got our hands on three of the five limited edition releases - the Casiotron, Full Metal Square G, and the Baby-G.The post Casio celebrates 50 years in electric blue and fluted gold of the Sky and Sea appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
A new color brings a summer look to Zenith's Defy Skyline collection.
Worn & Wound
Oris has unveiled their latest release in their ongoing “Change for the Better” campaign, a limited edition Aquis with a unique gradient dial. The Great Barrier Reef Limited Edition IV continues a tradition of partnership with the Reef Restoration Foundation, an Australian non-profit whose mission is to protect and restore the Great Barrier Reef. Watches in this series frequently feature evocative, nature inspired dial designs, and the Great Barrier Reef Limited Edition IV is no exception. It also marks the first of these watches to be built on the new Aquis platform that was unveiled at Watches & Wonders earlier this year. The most prominent design detail here is certainly the dial, rendered in a gradient blue that is meant to mimic the turquoise and blue water of the Great Barrier Reef as seen from the air. The gradient effect also captures the natural refraction of the sun’s rays through water, as you’d see if you were diving. This phenomenon is unique in nature and something that only a handful of divers get to see at depth. Oris points out that the vertical gradient seen in this dial design is rare for the brand, as typically their gradient dials emanate from the center. But the verticality here reinforces the idea of a diver descending, and fits the watch thematically. Regular readers will remember that when Oris introduced a revamped Aquis earlier this year, they did so in a multitude of sizes and configurations. This particular limited edition is built ...
Monochrome
Dual regulators were invented by horology’s illustrious grandfathers to improve accuracy and stability. Names like Huygens, who introduced the concept of resonance inside his movements, and others like Breguet, Berthoud and Janvier are all associated with this alignment of double regulators. Coveted by collectors, this rara avis is not extinct and reinterpreted by contemporary wizards […]
SJX Watches
Following last year’s SBGA481, Grand Seiko continues to expand the Sport Collection “Tokyo Lion” series inspired by the big cat in the Grand Seiko emblem. Like its predecessor, the Sport Spring Drive GMT SBGE307 “Tokyo Lion” sports a stylised, angular titanium case inspired by a lion’s paw and a textured dial modelled on a mane, now joined by a red GMT hand. Initial thoughts The “Tokyo Lion” is one of the most distinctive case designs in Grand Seiko’s large catalogue, and also the flagship given its complex finishing (and accompanying price). While most Grand Seiko watches opt for patterned dials and conservative, even bland, case styles, the “Tokyo Lion” makes a statement with its is generous dimensions and angular styling. The design is also particularly suited to Grand Seiko’s signature flat-polishing technique. With their wide, flat surfaces, the claw-inspired lugs are an excellent medium to showcase zaratsu polishing. It is, however, a large case at almost 45 mm wide and 15 mm high, so it’s catered to someone seeking a bold sports watch, and not an old-school Grand Seiko dress watch. The texture of the dial is striking, even though Grand Seiko has no shortage of dial patterns in its offerings. The dial artfully mimics a lion’s mane, giving it more visual depth than the typical Grand Seiko dial. Though few, the red accents on the dial add just enough colour and complement the ivory dial well. The dial might have been slightly dull without th...
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