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Above the Date Window: Steve McQueen's Monaco and What Sotheby's Catalogues Really Tell You

How a sliver of dial real estate above the date window decodes provenance on every screen-worn Heuer Monaco that has passed through Sotheby's and Phillips.

Patek Philippe Introduces the “Advanced Research” Minute Repeater Ref. 5750P SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Dec 14, 2021

Patek Philippe Introduces the “Advanced Research” Minute Repeater Ref. 5750P

Just days after the inaugural Nautilus ref. 5711/1A Tiffany & Co. 170th Anniversary sold for just over US$6.5 million, Patek Philippe has announced a wristwatch at the other end of the watchmaking spectrum. The latest in a series of watches focused on experimental new technologies, the “Advanced Research” Minute Repeater ref. 5750P-001 is the ultimate Patek Philippe minute repeater in terms of acoustics. Equipped with a patented amplification device named ‘fortissimo “ff”‘, the ref. 5750P strikes chimes that are so loud they are audible 60 m away according to Patek Philippe. Initial thoughts The ref. 5750P is interesting both mechanically and aesthetically. The R 27 PS movement certainly lives up to the “Advanced Research” label with its amplification mechanism, while the design is practically radical, at least in terms of Patek Philippe grand complications. While the “fortissimo” device relies on a few familiar principles, including a crystal soundboard and perforated case back, it is still novel enough to make it interesting. While other watchmakers have built repeating movements based on the same concepts, including Audemars Piguet with its Supersonnerie, Patek Philippe has done it in a classical fashion with an impressively thin movement that is very much typical of the brand. Visually, the ref. 5750P is radically different from any Patek Philippe repeater. Even the most contemporary of the brand’s striking watches are conventionally classical in...

Three Reasons to check out the White Birch in person, which you can now do at the boutique in Sydney (rejoice) Time+Tide
Grand Seiko fanatics admirers or just Dec 13, 2021

Three Reasons to check out the White Birch in person, which you can now do at the boutique in Sydney (rejoice)

Attention all Grand Seiko fanatics, admirers, or just plain curious creatures! The long anticipated SLGH005 ‘White Birch’ is finally starting to land in Grand Seiko boutiques in Australia. The rate at which these watches sold out from preorders is really quite remarkable, proving that Grand Seiko are no longer an underrated gem of luxury timekeeping. … ContinuedThe post Three Reasons to check out the White Birch in person, which you can now do at the boutique in Sydney (rejoice) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Jaw-Dropping Phillips Auction Of The Tiffany & Co Double-Signed Patek Philippe Nautilus Ref. 5711/1A-018: Some Deep Thoughts And Wider Implications, Plus Auction Video Quill & Pad
Patek Philippe Nautilus Ref 5711/1A-018 Some Dec 12, 2021

Jaw-Dropping Phillips Auction Of The Tiffany & Co Double-Signed Patek Philippe Nautilus Ref. 5711/1A-018: Some Deep Thoughts And Wider Implications, Plus Auction Video

The Phillips watch auction in New York on December 11, 2021 sold a brand-new Patek Philippe Nautilus Reference 5711/1A-018, double signed “Tiffany & Co”. The hammer fell at a jaw-dropping price of $5.35 million. The buyer’s premium on the sale was an additional $1.153 million. Brendan Cunningham reflects on that auction result and the possible wider implications for the market.

EDITOR’S PICK: 5 of the best budget watch brands that get the nod from watch snobs Time+Tide
Vacheron Constantin ContinuedThe post EDITOR’S Dec 12, 2021

EDITOR’S PICK: 5 of the best budget watch brands that get the nod from watch snobs

EDITOR’S NOTE: What’s that you say? You don’t have a spare $6.5m kicking around to buy a Tiffany Blue 5711/1A-018 like the one that sold at auction yesterday? Join the club. Luckily, you don’t have to either as this list suggests a few budget-friendly alternatives.  Not everybody can afford the big guns: Patek Philippe, Vacheron Constantin, … ContinuedThe post EDITOR’S PICK: 5 of the best budget watch brands that get the nod from watch snobs appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

“This is what watch collecting is all about” – Aurel Bacs on the Tiffany Blue 5711/1A-018 selling at Phillips for $6.5M USD Time+Tide
Dec 11, 2021

“This is what watch collecting is all about” – Aurel Bacs on the Tiffany Blue 5711/1A-018 selling at Phillips for $6.5M USD

This week, the watch world was eagerly awaiting what the result of “lot 1T” would be, and, not if it would break the record for the highest hammer price for a 5711 Nautilus, but rather by how much. Watching the bidding live, even remotely you could feel the energy and excitement in the room. For … ContinuedThe post “This is what watch collecting is all about” – Aurel Bacs on the Tiffany Blue 5711/1A-018 selling at Phillips for $6.5M USD appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The new Franck Muller Grand Central Tourbillon Deployant
Franck Muller Dec 11, 2021

The new Franck Muller Grand Central Tourbillon

While there is no doubt the central tourbillon is a complication in its own right, the complication to relocate it to the center yields little benefit from a time telling technical perspective. Then again, the whole spiel of a more accurate time keeping using a tourbillon is controversial as well. Ultimately, a tourbillon timepiece is an aesthetic pursuit and that should limit the scope of one's judgement of this timepiece.

WHO WORE IT BEST? Prince William vs Joe Biden battle it out with the Omega Seamaster Diver 300m Time+Tide
Omega Seamaster Diver 300m Dec 9, 2021

WHO WORE IT BEST? Prince William vs Joe Biden battle it out with the Omega Seamaster Diver 300m

The future King of England and the 46th POTUS share a certain Omega Seamaster in common. Last month in Glasgow for the COP26 climate change conference, Prince William and Joe Biden were seen sharing a warm embrace and laughing together. Whether or not the pair were joking about the American president’s flatulence issues that William’s … ContinuedThe post WHO WORE IT BEST? Prince William vs Joe Biden battle it out with the Omega Seamaster Diver 300m appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: The Bulgari Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT offers a sportier take on a modern classic Time+Tide
Bulgari Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT Dec 9, 2021

HANDS-ON: The Bulgari Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT offers a sportier take on a modern classic

For many, myself included, the Bulgari Octo Finissimo has been a consistent benchmark for  craftsmanship, artfulness, and bravery in watchmaking. Off the top of my head, I can’t even count how many records have been broken with these watches, including all the mind-boggling complications in wafer-thin movements that still maintain that Roman design foundation. In … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Bulgari Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT offers a sportier take on a modern classic appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hublot Introduces the Takashi Murakami Sapphire Rainbow SJX Watches
Hublot Introduces Dec 8, 2021

Hublot Introduces the Takashi Murakami Sapphire Rainbow

Earlier this year Hublot dropped the Classic Fusion Takashi Murakami with its spinning, smiling flower. But the watch was surprisingly all-black – even set with black diamonds – seemingly antithetical to the artist’s splashy, polychromatic style. Now the watchmaker has taken the idea to its logical conclusion (or perhaps there will be more) with the Classic Fusion Takashi Murakami Sapphire Rainbow. It’s essentially the same watch but rendered in full colour and clear sapphire, an upbeat – and pricey – timepiece that exemplifies the quintessential aesthetic of both Hublot and Murakami. Initial thoughts The all-black Murakami edition was a stellar success – it sold out within a day – and Hublot already had plans at the time for a follow up; in fact, its spokesperson said so during the launch of the original version). Repetition isn’t always exciting for fortunately the new edition is certainly perfectly executed for what it is, while also being a far smaller run. Most importantly, it looks different enough – the chromatic opposite in fact – to make it compelling even for someone who owns the first version. The new look is even more striking, since the transparent case creates an open aesthetic that allows the coloured stones to shine – a case in another material would arguably have diminished the impact of the rainbow gemstones. Notably, the latest version is also true to the both the artist and brand. While a sapphire case isn’t novel, it’s...

The J.N. Shapiro Infinity Tantalum Limited Edition marks the first tantalum case made in-house outside of Switzerland Time+Tide
Dec 8, 2021

The J.N. Shapiro Infinity Tantalum Limited Edition marks the first tantalum case made in-house outside of Switzerland

I must confess I have a strong affection for J.N Shapiro watches. As a born and bred American, whenever I see US watchmaking get time in the spotlight I am all for it. Shapiro has been on my radar for a while, known for his intricately handcrafted dials engine-turned in California. Formerly a high school … ContinuedThe post The J.N. Shapiro Infinity Tantalum Limited Edition marks the first tantalum case made in-house outside of Switzerland appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Kevin Pietersen creates his ultimate Test cricketer in the spirit of Hublot’s art of fusion Time+Tide
Hublot s art Dec 7, 2021

Kevin Pietersen creates his ultimate Test cricketer in the spirit of Hublot’s art of fusion

To the uninitiated, Test cricket can seem like a mystifying business. As sporting occasions go, it’s often a slow-motion spectacle in which a single game can drag on for up to five days, then peter out in a lacklustre draw. In a time of ever-decreasing attention spans, watching 22 men in white chasing a small … ContinuedThe post Kevin Pietersen creates his ultimate Test cricketer in the spirit of Hublot’s art of fusion appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Four unexpected takeaways from the new Tiffany Blue 5711 – the real final victory lap of Patek’s Nautilus Time+Tide
Patek Philippe announced Dec 6, 2021

Four unexpected takeaways from the new Tiffany Blue 5711 – the real final victory lap of Patek’s Nautilus

Earlier this year, Patek Philippe announced that the Nautilus, the most sought-after watch in the entire world, was being retired. The acclaimed reference would have one final victory lap – which many of us believed was a pair of Nautilus watches with olive-green dials, one with a diamond bezel. VIP collectors chased after the duo, … ContinuedThe post Four unexpected takeaways from the new Tiffany Blue 5711 – the real final victory lap of Patek’s Nautilus appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

J.N. Shapiro Introduces the Infinity Tantalum SJX Watches
Breguet hands Dec 6, 2021

J.N. Shapiro Introduces the Infinity Tantalum

A self-taught guillocheur who conceived an engine-turned motif of his own, Joshua Shapiro was an educator before switching careers to focus on his eponymous brand, J.N. Shapiro. His latest creation is the Infinity Tantalum, a limited edition wristwatch in his typical, classical style but in unusual metals – the guilloche dial is palladium while the chapter ring and case are tantalum (while a portion of the proceeds going to a medical charity). And more unusually, J.N. Shapiro is making both the tantalum components in house. Initial thoughts While Mr Shapiro’s design looks conventionally traditional, it incorporates a handful of details unique to his brand. One is the open-tipped Breguet hands, and the other is the font for the Arabic numerals, which was custom designed for J.N. Shapiro. Here the novel combination of metals give Mr Shapiro’s watch an entirely different look, especially in the version with a grey-coated dial. It’s an attractive look that’s less Breguet-inspired than his earlier watches. And the use of tantalum for the case would also give the watch a pleasing heft, which will give it an appealing tactile feel. The ruthenium-plated dial with rose gold accents At US$33,000, the Infinity Tantalum is pricier than Mr Shapiro’s past models, though it is in line with the convention of tantalum cases being significantly pricier due to the challenges of fabrication. The metal wears out tooling several times more quickly than gold, requiring frequent repl...

The Story of the World’s Most Famous Reversible Watch SJX Watches
Dec 6, 2021

The Story of the World’s Most Famous Reversible Watch

History’s most famous reversible wristwatch would never have been invented were it not for Joseph Ford Sherer, then a lieutenant in the 44th Regiment of Sylhet Light Infantry of the East India Company’s army. The story begins in the middle of the 19th century in Manipur, a state in east British India, where Lieutenant Sherer observes locals play a game known as sagol kangjei. Translating as “horse hockey”, the game was long played by local royalty. The game has players on horseback wielding sticks to hit a ball across a rectangular field. The Lieutenant reported his observations to his boss, Captain Robert Stewart. The two men eventually began to play the game, which evolved into what is now known as polo. In March 1859 Sherer and Stewart established their own polo club, Silchar Kangjai Club, and four years later the earliest written rulebook for polo was. With that, the pair started a long tradition of polo-playing among British soldiers in India. And soon polo would find its way around the world with polo-playing soldiers across the Commonwealth – the first polo match was played in Europe sometime in the late 1860s. Lieutenant Joseph Sherer, Assistant to the Superintendent of Cachar (second from left), with his bearers, Manipur, 1861. Image – National Army Museum As the game grew in popularity, a problem arose: polo players would often damage the crystals on their wristwatches, sometimes with errant mallets. During a visit to India in 1930, César de Trey ...

EDITOR’S PICK: The 7 watch-collecting commandments of Shark Tank’s Kevin O’Leary Time+Tide
Dec 6, 2021

EDITOR’S PICK: The 7 watch-collecting commandments of Shark Tank’s Kevin O’Leary

EDITOR’S NOTE: Imagine you could spent pretty much whatever you liked on watches. You had deep enough pockets to essentially ignore budgetary concerns and snap up virtually any new watch that you fancied. It’s a dream scenario for most watch lovers, but that’s the reality for Shark Tank investor Kevin O’Leary, thanks to his estimated … ContinuedThe post EDITOR’S PICK: The 7 watch-collecting commandments of Shark Tank’s Kevin O’Leary appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Aleksander Nesterenko Makes His Debut with the Art Deco SJX Watches
Dec 5, 2021

Aleksander Nesterenko Makes His Debut with the Art Deco

Independent watchmaking is trending not only among seasoned collectors, but even in the broader, hobbyist community – something that was hardly imaginable not too long ago. But what is independent watchmaking really? An independent watchmaker can be loosely defined as one who creates – not merely produces – watches for each client on an individual basis, at least during his or her start-up period. This individuality and personalisation is crucial, as these qualities result in the sort of watches that convey the magic of watchmaking, allowing the owners of such watches to touch the soul of their creator. Just like any form of art, the spirit of an independent watchmaker is forever embodied in his or her work – though the second half of the life of the watch is bestowed upon it by the owner. Russian watchmaking The development of this niche segment of the watchmaking is nevertheless globe spanning, and it is present in one of the most scenic cities in Russia, Saint Petersburg. Perhaps led by Konstantin Chaykin, now well-known internationally with his inventive and quirky creations, interesting independent watchmakers have begun to rise in the city, with the most recent examples being Maxim Sushkov and HoD Russia. But today we profile Alexander Nesterenko. Like many extraordinary independent watchmakers of our time – including the acclaimed George Daniels and the lesser-known Thomas Engels – Mr Nesterenko learned watchmaking by himself. Through reading, practicing...