Deployant
Independent Watchmaking: Six of the Lesser Known Players in the Field
In this week's column, we dive into the rabbit hole of independent watchmaking, with a series of less-known yet remarkable independent watchmakers.
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Deployant
Time+Tide
INTRODUCING: The Hublot Big Bang Unico Eden Rock St Barths is an even more limited twist on the Unico Sky Blue
Last year, Hublot introduced a Big Bang Unico Sky Blue – which we raved about due to its eye-popping hue in a year where blue dominated the market. Limited to 100 pieces, the watch subsequently sold out. Yet buyers who missed out may now have the opportunity to secure something similar, although subtle and clear … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Hublot Big Bang Unico Eden Rock St Barths is an even more limited twist on the Unico Sky Blue appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
The Value Proposition: Skip The Watches That Pay Homage To The Military – And Get The Marathon They Actually Use
If it's good enough for the battlefield, it's good enough for your daily duties.
SJX Watches
Sarpaneva Introduces the Sarpaneva x Moomin
Finnish watchmaker Stepan Sarpaneva had a hit on his hands with last year’s S.U.F. Helsinki x Moomin, a limited edition made to mark 75 years of the titular Swedish comic strip about trolls. Now the watchmaker is following up with the Sarpaneva x Moomin, which is seemingly identical in terms of design but actually an entirely different watch. Crucially, this is a Sarpaneva wristwatch, unlike last year’s Moomin edition, which was an S.U.F. Helsinki, a line of affordable watches spun off from Sarpaneva. Being a Sarpaneva, it is a higher end product, it has the decoration and finishing typical of Sarpaneva wristwatches, as well as the corresponding price. Initial thoughts Having enjoying a brisk sellout last year, the Moomin watch making a comeback is not a surprise. Ordinarily I don’t like repeats of the same thing, but here it’s not exactly the same thing. And in fact the new Moomin watch is tangibly superior. Sarpaneva is repeating the idea with a twist, putting the same design into a watch with better fit and finish. One obvious example of that improvement is the open-worked chapter ring around the dial, which is finished by hand with circular graining and polished bevels. Another is the skeletonised rotor with the Sarpaneva moon “face” and solid-gold weights. While the intrinsic quality of the watch justifies the price, I would have hoped the dial motif would be different. Even though the dial is fancier with the hand-finished chapter ring, the primary moti...
Revolution
Introducing the Baltic Bicompax Pulso for Revolution & The Rake
More than just selling watches, Etienne Malec wants to create well-designed, high-quality mechanical watches with price points that appeal to a new generation. Here, we cast the spotlight on his brand, Baltic Watches, and present our collaboration with them - a pulsometer chronograph that is a fantastic value proposition.
Time+Tide
The worst thing I’ve ever done to a watch (or why you shouldn’t dunk an Omega Seamaster in Berocca)
Wear and tear often bolsters the appeal of a vintage watch. Picture a chronograph dial aged to a warm tropical hue, or a diver’s watch shadowed with caramel patina. Rather than signs of decay, such well-worn details are celebrated as adding character and authenticity. Like the laughter lines on an old man’s face, they’re testimony … ContinuedThe post The worst thing I’ve ever done to a watch (or why you shouldn’t dunk an Omega Seamaster in Berocca) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Hands-On: The New Rolex Explorer II Ref. 226570, In Both Polar And Black
The differences are in the details.
Time+Tide
WHAT TWEAKS MY TOURB: Clasps that create fixed length longer than the lug-to-lug measurement of a case
Editor’s Note: Welcome to our new series, “What Tweaks My Tourb” in which Zach shares the watch-related irks and peeves that leave him exasperated. First up: size matters. Clasp size that is… To some this won’t be noticeable, as this is typically a symptom of a smaller wrist, but there is nothing worse than falling in love … ContinuedThe post WHAT TWEAKS MY TOURB: Clasps that create fixed length longer than the lug-to-lug measurement of a case appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
Introducing The Seiko Prospex SRPH43K1 and Seiko Presage SPB273J1
Seiko launches the all new Prospex SRPH43K1 and Seiko Presage SPB273J1 just ahead of the year-end holiday season.
Deployant
Rare and special Lange watches in the “Exceptional Masterpieces” exhibition
Lange exhibition of 30 rare and special watches to be shown in the "Exceptional Masterpieces" Exhibition in the Singapore National Gallery.
Revolution
Available in the shop: The Vacheron Constantin Overseas, an integrated contender
The Vacheron Constantin Overseas is fast becoming one of the favorites for the ideal integrated steel sports watch, and it’s easy to see why. We explore the history of this iconic design, from the historic reference 222 all the way to this incredible Overseas 4500V with a beautiful blue dial.
SJX Watches
Omega Debuts the Facelifted Globemaster Annual Calendar
Launched in 2016, Globemaster Annual Calendar has remained under-appreciated, despite the distinctive design that combines several elements from historical Omega watches – most notably the “pie pan” dial of the Constellation – and perhaps more importantly, a practical complication. Originally available in the same muted colours as the base-model Globemaster, the Annual Calendar has been refreshed with dials in striking colours and in different metals, including a striking burgundy and of course an olive green. The burgundy dial in a two-tone case Initial thoughts The Globemaster Annual Calendar is an interesting proposition. The complication is unusual – it’s the only annual calendar offered by Omega – while the design is vintage-inspired but quirky. But the Annual Calendar has been overlooked perhaps because of the brand’s wide-ranging catalogue that is packed with more famous models like the Speedmasters, and also because of its old-school case design and restrained colours. So the new trio is certainly a good addition to the line, especially since each of the new colours are striking and relatively unusual. The olive-green version immediately stands out, not only because it’s the year’s most fashionable colour, but also the fact that the shade is perfect – it’s restrained but rich. And it’s in steel, which makes it the most affordable of the variants. Most interesting in terms of aesthetics is the two-tone version. The pairing of a burgundy dia...
Hodinkee
Happenings: Stéphane Belmont To Lecture At The Horological Society Of New York
The Jaeger-LeCoultre Patrimony Director will discuss the history of the Reverso.
Revolution
NORQAIN: The Heart of An Adventurer
NORQAIN introduces three new GMT models to the Adventure family in a sub-collection named NEVEREST that benefits the Butterfly Help Project aimed at helping the children of Sherpas lost in the Himalayan mountains receive access to education
SJX Watches
The Academy Museum of Motion Pictures Opens in L.A.
Rolex watches have long been prominent in cinema, particularly of the American variety, never as a result of a product placements but instead a choice of the performer or director. Neither has the watchmaker recruited actors or actresses as ambassadors – it largely concentrates on sportspeople, musicians, environmentalist, and directors like James Cameron and Martin Scorsese – though it is the official sponsor of the Oscars. But now the watchmaker’s support of the film industry takes tangible form with the newly-opened Academy Museum of Motion Pictures in Los Angeles, which was constructed by the same organisation that’s responsible for the Oscars. Rolex is a “Founding Supporter” of the museum, resulting in the Rolex Gallery on the building’s third level. According to Rolex, the space is dedicated to the “many aspects of moviemaking – technology, artists, history and social impact” and includes the “Paul Newman Paul Newman”, the Rolex Daytona ref. 6239 owned by the late American actor that sold for a record US$17.52 million in 2017. But in typical Rolex fashion – which means discretion to the point of secrecy – the watchmaker is nowhere to be found on the list of “Founding Supporters” of the museum. But there is a single “Anonymous” donor in the category of US$10-20 million donations, alongside Dalian Wanda Group, Steven Spielberg, and The Walt Disney Company. The art of cinema Located in Los Angeles, the Academy Museum is the first o...
Revolution
Introducing the Mancheront Pacer, a Pulsometer done different
Launching on Kickstarter, the Pacer is the first watch from Mancheront, a Sydney-based brand that blends familiar dive watch form with a novel take on the pulsometer.
Deployant
Traveler’s choice: Six of the best Dual Time Zone Watches for globe trotting
Finally, the moment that many have been waiting for. After almost two seemingly long years, it appears that there has been some progress for the travel enthusiasts, in the form of Vaccinated Travel Lanes (“VTLs”). That means, it is also time for us to bring out our dual time zone watches. It is always goodRead More
Revolution
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso: The Story of an Icon
The story of the Reverso is the story of watchmaking’s most famous swiveling case. Built for functionality during a polo game, it has since evolved to become a blank canvas for Jaeger-LeCoultre’s artistic creativity and a showcase for the brand’s technical innovations.
Time+Tide
DUBAI DIARIES: “In Dubai, you could fall asleep on the street with your Richard Mille and it would be there when you wake up” – Pierre Biver
We are nearing the end of Dubai Watch Week 2021, but we are approaching the finish line strong. The day remained packed with Horology Forums, Collectors Lounge sessions, Creative Hubs, Masterclasses and more. Later on in the evening things kicked into a higher gear, fitting when you consider the topic of discussion was the 40Hz … ContinuedThe post DUBAI DIARIES: “In Dubai, you could fall asleep on the street with your Richard Mille and it would be there when you wake up” – Pierre Biver appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Girard-Perregaux Unveils the La Esmeralda Tourbillon “à Secret” Eternity Edition
Most famous for the triple-golden bridge tourbillon, Girard-Perregaux is paying tribute to that 19th century invention the La Esmeralda Tourbillon “à Secret” Eternity Edition, which arrives just in time for its 230th anniversary. The latest La Esmeralda Tourbillon is strikingly different from its predecessors – clearly no expense was spared in its decoration. Lavishly hand-engraved and enamelled – front and back and even on the sides of the case – the La Esmeralda even incorporates a novel movement finishing technique known as concave anglage on its gold bridges. The original La Esmeralda was a late-19th century pocket watch sold by a Mexican retailer of the same name Initial thoughts Girard-Perregaux has reinterpreted the triple bridge constructions in many different ways, resulting in a large family of “bridge” watches that includes an ultra-modern example with “flying” bridges and even one without a tourbillon at all. Still the La Esmeralda manages to stand out – by a large margin – because it’s truly exquisite. The decoration is magnificent, while also being faithful to the original with its equestrian theme. In fact, it surpasses the one-off La Esmeralda Tourbillon “à Secret” made in 2018, both in terms of style and artisanal quality. Even from a distance, the La Esmeralda is clearly different from past triple-bridge models, though the traditional arrow-shaped bridges remain obvious. The dial features two golden horses, each replac...
Quill & Pad
The Bovet 19thirty UAE Anniversary Edition With Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons
To mark the fiftieth anniversary of the United Arab Emirates, Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons worked with Bovet to create an exceptional version of the 19thirty that stands out in its use of color. Martin Green thinks the green-and-orange color combination works so well he wonders why it isn't seen more (and why he didn't think of it himself).
Revolution
Introducing the De Bethune DB25 Perpetual Calendar in Green
Joining the harvest of green-dialled watches released this year, De Bethune’s green iteration of its DB25 Perpetual Calendar is anything but conventional.
SJX Watches
H. Moser & Cie. Introduces the Heritage Bronze “Since 1828”
Just debuted at Dubai Watch Week, the Heritage Bronze “Since 1828” is different from the usual Moser watches. A limited edition with a bronze case, the Since 1828 is styled like an aviator’s watch, with a design that draws heavily on early 20th century wristwatches. The dial is naturally smoked, as most Moser dials are, but in a subtle manner. And in a nod to its own history, the dial bears the H. Moser & Cie. logo in Cyrillic, which before the Russian Revolution was found on most of the brand’s timepieces. Initial thoughts Moser is today best known for its fume dials and Streamliner sports watch, with the Heritage line being a lesser known part of its line up. Still, the Heritage watches offer the usual Moser quality – of both innovation and finishing – in a different package. Admittedly, a bronze pilot’s watch isn’t exactly novel, but it’s atypical for Moser. And it is executed well, with a retro design that features smart details like the wire-like lugs, flat crown, and applied numerals. But perhaps the best feature is the Cyrillic logo on the dial, which is a minor detail but manages to give the watch a different look. And it is historically appropriate, given that the Russian Empire was once the key destination for Moser’s watches. And with a price of about US$18,000, the Heritage Bronze “Since 1828” is a fair deal for a watch with a solid, attractive in-house movement along with a dial and case featuring good details. Atypically Moser The H...
SJX Watches
Ressence Unveils the Type 1 Slim DX2
Launched as Dubai Watch Week opens its door, the Type 1 Slim DX2 is a limited edition created for Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons, the biggest watch retailer in the Middle East. Like its 2019 counterpart, the Type 1 Slim DX2 is inspired by the region. The polygonal geometric pattern on the sand-coloured dial is inspired by the decorative motifs found in the architecture of the Arab world, which have their roots in Islamic ornamentation. Initial thoughts The DX2 is a design variant, but it manages to look quite different from standard Type 1 Slim. It’s perfect for anyone who admires the brand’s technical ingenuity while seeking something more elaborate in terms of design. While the typical Ressence watch is all about unadorned, plain surfaces, the DX2 is decorative – and appealing for that. The dial brings textures, colour, and reflective surfaces that are not usually found on Ressence watches, which are either appealingly minimalist or mundane depending on your perspective. So the DX2 is more engaging, while retaining all of the mechanical ingenuity that sets Ressence apart from the competition. Because it’s mechanically identical to the standard model, the DX2 is also powered by an ETA 2892, a movement robust yet thin enough to fit the case. But the movement does come with the downside of a short, 36-hour power reserve. Still, the movement contains much impressive technical innovation, though that is all contained within the time-display module. Patterns and textures The co...
Revolution
URWERK Introduces the UR-100V Full Titanium Jacket
URWERK introduces the UR-100V Full Titanium Jacket at Dubai Watch Week 2021, in sandblasted titanium with a 32-link sandblasted titanium bracelet
SJX Watches
Urwerk Introduces the UR-100V with Titanium Bracelet
Urwerk’s entry-level – and most wearable – model from has just got more interesting at Dubai Watch Week with the new UR-100V Full Titanium Jacket, the first metal bracelet for the UR-100 line, and an integrated bracelet at that. Bracelet aside, the UR-100V also gets a new look – muted shades of grey and almost monochromatic – giving the watch a sleek, clean look that’s handsome. Initial thoughts While an integrated bracelet is now the fad for high-end watches, it is relatively unusual for Urwerk. The latest UR-100 is clearly different from the typical Urwerk. Though the brand has installed bracelets on its watches in the past, they were few in number and restricted to the top-of-the-line models like the UR-210. Despite the new(ish) look, the UR-100V is still very much an Urwerk, because the open dial with wandering hours is instantly recognisable. And the bracelet is smartly done with a minimalist style, so it doesn’t get in the way of the design. In fact, the restrained, all-grey palette will be familiar to long-time fans of the brand. The sand-blasted case and bracelet in shades of grey call to mind earlier models like the UR-105 that was finished similarly, as well as the more recent UR-100 Gunmetal. When this arrived in my inbox, I instantly found it attractive, but I thought the construction of bracelet was too simple. In the photos, it lacks the complexity of Urwerk’s signature cases that are finely machined. But after seeing it in the metal I am co...
Hodinkee
Vintage Watches: A 1966 Rolex Oyster Perpetual Date, A 1973 Rolex 'Daytona' Sigma Dial Ref. 6265, And A 1945 Universal Genève Field Watch
Gives thanks to the world of vintage watches this Thanksgiving Eve.
Revolution
Introducing the NORQAIN Adventure Neverest Night Sight
Built tough with a chronometer-grade movement from Kenissi, NORQAIN’s Adventure Neverest Night Sight has the looks and grit for life outdoors.
Revolution
Available in the Shop: How the Moonwatch made it to space, and why you need it on your wrist
The Omega Speedmaster is a certified icon, forever known as the Moonwatch. We highlight some of this legendary chronographs key moments, as well as some key models available in partnership with Watchfinder & Co.
Revolution
Introducing the Girard-Perregaux Eternity Editions at Dubai Watch Week 2021
Girard-Perregaux continues to add to its special creations in the year of its 230th anniversary with a trio of novelties that highlight some of the maison’s most iconic, decorated in time honoured techniques from the universe of watchmaking.