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Monochrome
The Chinese New Year provides many watch companies with the perfect excuse to produce a special edition decorated with one of the twelve animals of the Chinese Zodiac. This year is the Year of the Dragon, and, for the first time, Longines jumps on the Chinese New Year bandwagon with a limited edition of 888 […]
SJX Watches
Based in the southernmost corner of Russia, Rashid Tsoroev is a watchmaker who got his start in 2019 with fairly simple time-only watches powered by the oversized ETA Unitas calibre. Now Mr Tsoroev has upgraded his work, both stylistically and mechanically, with the debut of the Evo Arrow that is priced affordably at US$5,000. Still a three-hand watch but now equipped with a La Joux-Perret (LJP) automatic, the Evo Arrow sports a hand-hammered brass dial – a technique is sometimes described as tremblage – that he makes himself. Mr Tsoroev relies on suppliers for other components like the case, but he finishes all the components in his own workshop. Initial thoughts Like many independent makers in this price segment, Mr Tsoroev outsources several aspects the watch, but he applies his skill to key aspects, including producing and finishing the dial and hands; this contrasts with brands that merely design and assemble watches. Mr Tsoroev’s attention to detail is admirable, considering the price of the watch. Elements like the font he designed for the watch and the rounded arms of the hands reflect the thought put into the design and execution. Granted, there are constraints imposed by the retail price and presumably Mr Tsoroev’s location (where there are probably no suppliers in a radius of hundreds of kilometres), but the Evo Arrow feels like an honest creation by a craftsman. The only thing I would change is the movement. I would swap the LJP calibre for a Russian ...
Worn & Wound
If anyone thought brands might slow down when it comes to collaborative limited editions in 2024, the releases that are popping up in the first full week of the year would seem to disprove that notion. To that end, Bamford has just announced their first new release of the year, a new spin on their popular GMT format made in partnership with the artist and designer known as Jeremyville. The Bamford London x Jeremyville Limited Edition GMT is whimsical way to start the new year, featuring a well known character from the larger Jeremyville universe. The Bamford GMT has proven to be a great platform for character watches – we saw not one, but two Snoopy GMTs released in the last few years – and this new release finds the Jeremyville “Earth” character taking center stage. If you’re not familiar with Jeremyville’s art, a brief primer is in order. Jeremyville’s art has gained popularity over the course of twenty years, and is both the moniker of the artist himself and the fictional world his characters inhabit. The themes expressed in his art are nearly universally positive, with a real focus on community and empathy, so a collaboration at the beginning of a new year, a time when everyone seems focused on positive change, makes a lot of sense. The dial of the limited edition features the Earth character extending two arms, one of which is an hour hand (and displays a peace sign) and other is the minute hand (with fingers crossed). The GMT hand is represented by ...
Quill & Pad
When the Omega Specialties CK 859 launched in the spring of 2022, it flew a bit under the radar as other releases were still garnering a lot of the press (fairly typical for spring in Switzerland). But it quickly picked up steam as people realized what a little gem this watch was, and it became a star in the eyes of fans of sector-dialed watches.
Monochrome
Mido’s Multifort line has been in production since 1934 and was the brand’s first model fitted with an automatic movement. Earning its ‘Multifort’ credentials, the watch was waterproof, automatic, anti-magnetic and shock-resistant, delivering a robust package at an aggressive price that made it a best seller from the 1930s to the 1950s. Skeletonised dials are […]
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Time+Tide
2023's Golden Globes were particularly golden when it came to watch spotting. Here are the ten best watches worn by attendees.The post The 10 best watches from the 81st Golden Globe Awards appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
With the trend of new dial colours seemingly slowing, might one of these be the next big thing in watch dials?The post What dials haven’t we seen yet? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
The MTG-B3000CXD exemplifies the perfect blend of structural innovation and aesthetic brilliance, a hallmark of the MT-G watch series. This special model pays homage to the beginning of 2024 with a design that alludes to the mythical dragon zodiac.
Hodinkee
The manually-wound dress watch is a basic in any man's wardrobe, and we're putting three that feature in-house movements for under $20,000 to the test.
Hodinkee
It's time to tackle one of the most popular categories of watches of the modern era: the stainless steel luxury sport watch. We've got three takes, and they're going head-to-head-to-head.
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Worn & Wound
“Good things come to those who wait.” In a culture of instant gratification and overstimulation, these words are a poignant reminder that patience is often well-rewarded. Of course, as enthusiasts and collectors, we know well the excitement of anticipation and the thrill of the hunt. It’s also fun to be the first to enjoy and experience a watch that has yet to reach the rest of the watch-buying public. And who doesn’t love being early in discovering a hot watch? To that end, we’d like to highlight a few watches from the Windup Watch Shop that are currently available for pre-order. Don’t wait too late, however; they may be gone before you know it. Let’s dive in. “Good things come to those who wait.” In a culture of instant gratification and overstimulation, these words are a poignant reminder that patience is often well-rewarded. Of course, as enthusiasts and collectors, we know well the excitement of anticipation and the thrill of the hunt. It’s also fun to be the first to enjoy and experience a watch that has yet to reach the rest of the watch-buying public. And who doesn’t love being early in discovering a hot watch? To that end, we’d like to highlight a few watches from the Windup Watch Shop that are currently available for pre-order. Don’t wait too late, however; they may be gone before you know it. Let’s dive in. The post Watches Worth the Wait appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Worn & Wound
The new class satire Saltburn features some prominent watch-shots-protagonist Ollie Quick (Barry Keoghan) wears a Casio, his friend Felix Catton (Jacob Elordi) can be seen sporting a Rolex Bubbleback, and Felix’s mother Lady Elspeth Catton (Rosamund Pike) wears a Chopard Happy Diamonds, as Quick tricks his way into the family’s good graces before betraying them all. In films that seek to emphasize class differences, luxury goods like wristwatches are often easy visual stand-ins to show a difference between their worlds, a trick Saltburn is far from the first film to employ. From Saltburn, Barry Keoghan and Jacob Elordi wearing Casio and Rolex. Amazon Studios Ollie’s digital Casio fits in with the nice but inexpensive aesthetic of the social-climbing character, while Felix’s Rolex Bubbleback-reportedly Elordi’s own watch-speaks to the character’s inherited wealth and how he treats it as casually as the vintage timepiece he pairs with a Livestrong rubber bracelet. Felix’s mother, Lady Elspeth Catton (Rosamund Pike), wears a Chopard Happy Diamonds befitting a socialite party girl who married into an old money family. At the end of the film, the link between class and watches is highlighted once more when a now-adult and wealthier Ollie is seen to have traded his Casio for a Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso. Other “eat-the-rich” films in recent years have used wristwatches similarly: Take, for another example, last year’s The Menu in which the ultra wealthy R...
Worn & Wound
Paulin celebrated its 10th year in 2023 and on this anniversary, they embarked on a new chapter by officially merging with fellow Scottish and celebrated watch brand, anOrdain. Since COVID played havoc on traditional brick and mortar retailers, Paulin had to rethink their business model and joining anOrdain was the perfect solution. Their future never looked so bright! Their newest model is called the Modul, and the name is quite fitting due to its modular construction. The steel body that houses the movement sits within a brushed steel outer case, which is held together by two hex screws on either side of the crown. This type of structure allows the owner to swap out the inner module, should they want to change dial color or movement type (manual wind or quartz). Inspired by a recent trip to Scotland the good folks at The Armoury joined forces with Paulin, to create the Honk Kong Dial and a new Modul watch was born. Instead of Roman and Arabic numerals, as on California dials, they have chosen Roman and Chinese, which is appropriate considering The Armoury’s Eastern and Western locations. The visual weight of the Chinese numerals at 4, 5, 7 and 8 o’clock match their Roman counterparts above perfectly. This vintage infused design comes in four colorways: black dial (more like gray) with gold numerals and minute track, light blue dial with silver numerals and track, purple dial with lavender numerals and track, and lastly yellow dial with black numerals and white tr...
Worn & Wound
Last year, Heinrich introduced an eye-catching dial in an all new case. Each of Heinrich’s watches up to this point have been described as vintage inspired with strong 70s vibes.The Helicoprion “Buzzsaw” is no different, with the dial taking fairly direct inspiration from Universal Genève’s Unisonic “Buzzsaw” tuning fork watch from the late 1960s and ‘70s. Whether we will see a reincarnation of this design from Universal Genève under Breitling’s stewardship remains to be seen, but if you are crying out for a funky dial design at an affordable price, this could be the watch for you. The Helicoprion name comes from an extinct genus of shark-like fish, which had a spiral of teeth in its lower jaw – the teeth increasing in size as it spiraled outwards. This creature, along with Heinrich’s latest watch, has also been dubbed the “Buzzsaw” due to the similar circular tooth configuration seen on the blade of a circular saw. While the Universal Genève reference also saw each tooth shifting to a darker or lighter shade as they increased in size, the Heinrich Helicoprion dial markings are presented in a single color as the teeth grow between each hour (or five minute) index. $558 Hands-On: the Heinrich Helicoprion “Buzzsaw” Case Stainless steel Movement Miyota 9015 or Sellita SW200 Dial Various Lume Yes Lens Sapphire Strap Beads of rice bracelet Water Resistance 200 meters Dimensions 40 x 47.8mm Thickness 13.5mm Lug Width 20mm Crown screw down Warranty ...
Worn & Wound
The latest release from Maurice de Mauriac is a timely release for the holiday season and the upcoming Olympic year. Focusing on an array of gold-accented chronographs, the new L3 Gold Edition seamlessly marries an elegant design with superb quality that has become synonymous with the Zuch-based brand. The L3 Gold Edition comes in five colorways to choose from: Emerald Green, Cherry Blossom, Opalescent White, Spheric Blue, and Spheric Brown, each with a corresponding hand-tooled leather watch strap that perfectly complements the dial color. Each timepiece features a brushed 18kt 5N red gold case (measuring in at 40.5 mm) with a screw-in red gold crown and mushroom-type pushers, complemented by an antireflective domed sapphire crystal and a sapphire caseback. All models in the L3 Gold Edition include subdials for the chronograph minute counter at 3 o’clock, chronograph half-hours at 6 o’clock, and running small seconds at 9 o’clock. For prospective customers, one is able to choose between an automatic or manual movement for their L3. The automatic movement is powered by an automatic Concepto 2100-2120, while the manual-would option contains a Concepto C2000. The L3 Gold Edition watches are available now via Maurice de Mauriac’s website with prices starting at CHF 14,700. Images from this post: The post Maurice de Mauriac Introduces a Collection of Colorful Gold Chronographs appeared first on Worn & Wound.
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Worn & Wound
Pretty much since the first day of taking up the financially ruinous hobby of watches in early 2022, I’ve had a bit of a thing for tool and sports watches. Granted, I haven’t been scuba diving and I’ll certainly not be scaling Mount Everest any time soon, but there is – to me at least – something romantic about wearing a watch that offers a sense of genuine utility, especially in the age of the smartwatch. What’s more, I believe that a watch should tell something about its wearer; a glimpse into their personality rather than just be a status symbol and a source of bragging rights. When the opportunity for my first ‘proper’ watch arose in January 2023, I chose a Tudor Black Bay GMT. It was a belated 30th birthday gift and whenever I look at it, it reminds me that firstly, my knees hurt more often than they don’t, and secondly, reconciliation exists and hope springs eternal no matter how rough things may seem at certain times. There are also another two reasons unrelated to age as to why this watch is special to me. Several millennia ago as a student, I was fortunate to spend an academic year in St. Petersburg. That’s the Russian one, FYI, and that period from September 2010 to July 2011 kicked off a fascination with the awesome-yet-frightening city on Neva. In 2015, having also developed a love affair with the history of the Baltic States, I moved to Vilnius, the capital of Lithuania, to try my luck at Eastern Europe without the paternal hand of the un...
Worn & Wound
The concept of a “watch enthusiast” who owns, trades, and collects them for the love of the game is a relatively new one. It’s a far cry from our forebears, who often had one go-to watch for most of life’s occasions. Over the years, however, as watches have transitioned from being truly indispensable daily tools to totems of style and storytelling, the GADA (Go Anywhere, Do Anything) moniker remains a popular label for watches that can fulfill the “do-it-all” role that was so commonplace in the last century. While few of us can imagine ourselves as true one-watch aficionados, it’s satisfying to own a timepiece that just always works no matter the occasion. The appeal of these watches is easy to understand: they’re usually durable yet stylish and offer great value by fulfilling multiple roles. Here are five options from the Windup Watch Shop that we would consider GADA favorites; rest assured they’ll be with you wherever your adventures take you. The concept of a “watch enthusiast” who owns, trades, and collects them for the love of the game is a relatively new one. It’s a far cry from our forebears, who often had one go-to watch for most of life’s occasions. Over the years, however, as watches have transitioned from being truly indispensable daily tools to totems of style and storytelling, the GADA (Go Anywhere, Do Anything) moniker remains a popular label for watches that can fulfill the “do-it-all” role that was so commonplace in the last ce...
Hodinkee
Meet the alpha of Omega watch collecting.
Hodinkee
Our Style Editor makes a case for the return of the Offshore and what its success in the '00s can teach us about pushing watch design forward in 2024.
Monochrome
A company that offers a wide variety of timepieces that cater to all tastes, Union Glashütte goes from bold to classic. Established initially as Uhrenfabrik Union in Glashütte in 1893 by Johannes Dürrstein, a prominent figure in the German watch industry, the brand swiftly rose to prominence in Glashütte watchmaking – until World War II […]
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Worn & Wound
In the spring of 2022, nearly overshadowed by the launch of a certain celestially inspired plastic quartz chronograph, Seiko introduced the Seiko 5 Sports GMT. A watch that brought mechanical GMT movements to the masses. Previously, the least expensive mechanical GMT watches were well north of four figures. Since then, there has been a flutter of affordable GMTs, but very few can match Seiko’s incredible value proposition. In the months following the initial release, there have been a few added color variants and just in time to end 2023 with a bang, Seiko is introducing two new pieces. The Thong Sia Limited Editions exclusive to Malaysia, Brunei, Hong Kong, Macau, and Singapore. They will be restricted to 1000 pieces in each colorway. The Ice Blue SSK029 features a light blue/white dial, with blue hour, minute and second hands, and a red GMT hand. The bezel is a combination of black and blue. The Passion Red SSK031 is, as you can imagine, quite the opposite of the latter model. Featuring a deep red dial, with steel hour, minute and second hands, and a gold GMT hand. This one has a red and black bezel. These watches will be available from January 2024 and are limited to the Asian markets referenced above. Like all regional releases, they’ll undoubtedly pop up in the usual second hand and international retail outlets where watches like this can often be found shortly after becoming available, so be on the lookout if you’re interested in collecting some of the more h...
Quill & Pad
Alex has been a serious watch collector for decades, but it's only in the last few years that he has focused his attention to independent watchmakers. Here he shares the story of his collecting journey and why he bought a Vincent Deprez Tourbillon Classique Souscription Edition
Worn & Wound
Ace Jewelers, based in Amsterdam, has carved out a reputation for themselves as creators of some of the best limited edition collaborations between watch brands and retail partners. Yes, this is a category that has been growing steadily over the years, but it’s worth pointing at that Ace has been at it for a long time, well before the watch market reached the state of collab hysteria that we currently find ourselves in. Many collectors are probably aware of their regular limited releases with Nomos (they’ve done six, and they always sell out very quickly) but they’ve expanded their portfolio this year, introducing collaborations with Elka and Nivada. Their most recent LE introduces another new brand into the fold, Frederique Constant, with a version of their Highlife Worldtimer that draws on aesthetic cues established in earlier Ace releases. The Highlife Worldtimer remains one of the more compelling Frederique Constant references. The Highlife platform feels refreshingly contemporary (even though it’s based on 1970s design cues) compared to what we often think of when we picture a Frederique Constant in the mind’s eye. If your impression of the brand is that of a maker of watches in a more classical, dressier, and simply old-fashioned style, than the Highlife, a sleek integrated bracelet sports watch, is almost transgressive. And it’s proven to be a worthy canvas for Frederique Constant’s not-so-secret weapon: affordable complications. The Worldtimer, of c...
Worn & Wound
Thinness in a watch, real thinness, the type that requires the word “thin” to be in the name, is almost like a complication unto itself. This is not an original observation, but I think it bears repeating, especially when a watch is impressively, almost hilariously thin. The new MAEN Manhattan 39 Ultra Thin fits neatly into this category, taking every aspect of the popular 37mm version of the watch up a notch. To me it feels akin, almost, to the Lorier Hydra SIII released last year. Not because it has anything specific in common with that watch, but because it represents the manifestation of a type of watch enthusiasts have been dreaming of at an accessible price point for years. Before we get too deep into the wearing experience, let’s start with the numbers. The tale of the tape, for the MAEN 39 matters in a way I’d normally brush off. The 39mm diameter is just slightly larger than the original Manhattan. In truth, when you have the watches side by side, they look very similar. Part of this is because 2mm in this dimension is just not a whole lot of real estate on a case that’s elongated toward the bracelet sides, and part of it is a visual trick of the eye. $999 Hands-On: the MAEN 39 Ultra Thin Case Stainless steel Movement ETA 7001 Dial Green Lume Yes, hands and markers Lens Sapphire Strap Integrated steel bracelet Water Resistance 10 ATM Dimensions 39 x 47.8mm Thickness 6.9mm Lug Width 24mm Crown Push/pull Warranty Yes Price $999 Where the differences be...
Worn & Wound
Nubeo is a brand that takes its inspiration from both sea and space in tribute, in function and in design. Their latest dive watch is named after the Ventana remotely operated vehicle. This scientific submersible is rated to a depth of over 1700 meters, and for 30 years and somewhere north of 4,100 dives it is the most experienced and enduring ROV in the world. This diver sure looks the part and with 1000m of water-resistance, it can also do the part. The perfectly round stainless steel case is a whopping 50mm in diameter, but similar to everyone’s favorite Japanese dive watch nicknamed after a delicious sandwich fish, there are no lugs. The strap directly attaches to the watch underneath each side, in a hooded fashion. Therefore, despite its girth, just about anyone should be able to wear it. All of the Ventana variants feature a deep wave patterned dial, with a flush helium escape valve at 9 o’clock and, believe it or not, a captive bezel held in place by large screws. The extra-large hands and indices, along with the oversize bezel pip are filled with a copious amount of lume. Powering the Ventana is the automatic, Seiko built, NH35 movement, and all come on a specialized, thick silicon strap, ready for action. Finishing the year with a bang, Nubeo has introduced 4 new colorways, each limited to 400 pieces. First there is the Basalt Grey, for those that prefer a more conservative look. Its bezel insert is a half-half split of black on top and, as the name implies, g...
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