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Results for AHCI (Académie Horlogère des Créateurs Indépendants)

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Exhibition: ‘Musubi’ – 50 Years of Cartier in Japan SJX Watches
Cartier Jun 25, 2024

Exhibition: ‘Musubi’ – 50 Years of Cartier in Japan

In 1974, Cartier opened its first boutique in Japan and now marks its 50th anniversary in the country with MUSUBI – Half-Century of Cartier in Japan and Beyond: an Everlasting Dialogue of Beauty and Art, an exhibition of jewels, watches, and objet d’art taking place at the Hyokeikan building in the Tokyo National Museum from June 12 to July 28, 2024. The theme of the event is 結び (musubi), which translates literally as “conclusion” but its constituent characters can mean “the power of the divine spirit is produced by being bound together.” Tokyo National Museum with the flag of the exhibition under its dome Taking place in the building’s two symmetrical wings, the exhibition will be presented in parallel narratives separated into two main sections: “Cartier and Japan, a Tribute to Art and Beauty” and “Fondation Cartier pour l’Art Contemporain and Japanese Artists, a Never-Ending Conversation.” The exhibition’s scenography was designed by Studio Adrien Gardère to display the heritage of Hyokeikan’s architecture, while illustrating Cartier’s tribute to Japanese culture. The design is notably inspired by Tokonoma and Sukiya, traditional styles of Japanese architecture, and reflects Cartier’s spirited connection with the country, utilising Japanese industrial scaffolding techniques to stage all the artists on show. The section of the exhibition displaying “Cartier and Japan, a Tribute to Art and Beauty.” The exhibition features 120 piece...

The Jacob & Co. Bugatti Tourbillon and its V16 Engine Automaton SJX Watches
Jacob & Co. Jun 24, 2024

The Jacob & Co. Bugatti Tourbillon and its V16 Engine Automaton

Just after Bugatti took the covers off its Tourbillon hypercar, Jacob & Co. presents a watch to match, the Bugatti Tourbillon. Integrating some of the most distinct design elements of the car, the Tourbillon watch is extravagant in both style and mechanics, combining a retrograde time indication with a flying tourbillon, and a striking automaton modelled on a V16 engine.  Initial thoughts As over the top as the Tourbillon wristwatch might be at first, it unexpectedly incorporates subtle details and nods to the newest Bugatti automobile. Apart from the obvious engine automaton, the watch case is modelled on the car’s unique instrument cluster layout and indications. The mechanical instrument cluster in the Bugatti Tourbillon hypercar The piece is unapologetically automotive, taking the same approach in emulating the eponymous hypercar first seen in the Jacob & Co. Bugatti Chiron Tourbillon. Like the Chiron wristwatch, the Tourbillon is an oversized mechanical object for the wrist. A mini engine Clearly the showpiece of the Tourbillon is the V16 engine automaton with an engine block milled from sapphire. The mock engine features eight pairs of articulated titanium pistons and polished parts modelled on the intake manifolds of an actual Bugatti V16. When the automaton is engaged, the pistons “fire up” in the appropriate sequence, putting on a very interesting show.  Above the V16 engine block sits the time indication. Arranged to resemble the instrument cluster found ...

Paradise Found: Exploring Van Cleef & Arpels’ Automatons SJX Watches
Jun 24, 2024

Paradise Found: Exploring Van Cleef & Arpels’ Automatons

In 1906, Alfred Van Cleef and Estelle Arpels, united not only in matrimony but also in an unbridled passion for the art of jewellery, laid the foundations of what would become Van Cleef & Arpels (VC&A;). As the firm grew in stature and acclaim, it became clear that the founders’ vision extended beyond the realm of high jewellery. Like other storied makers before them, such as the renowned house of Fabergè, they ventured into the worlds of objet d’art and horology, sometimes blending the two, where the measuring of time transcended the ordinary and entered the realm of the extraordinary. The Varuna model The objects crafted by VC&A; during the early decades of the 20th century extend beyond conventional boundaries, offering a canvas for fulfilling unusual special orders. One such emblematic example is the scale model of the Varuna, a yacht commissioned by Eugene Higgins, a New York millionaire at the turn of the last century. In enamelled gold, the vessel gracefully rests on a sea of sculpted jasper mounted on an ebony base. Its funnel is an aesthetic marvel and its bell, functional, echoing the era’s sophisticated craftsmanship. Although the jewellery house has long since passed into the ownership of Swiss luxury group Richemont, at its heart lies the same philosophy that imagines the world as it should be - a paradise in the universal sense - one overflowing with happiness and boundless imagination. This has shaped the whimsical, elegant collections of the brand...

Watches, Stories, & Gear: The Bugatti Tourbillon, John Lennon’s Watch, and Brewing Ancient Beer Worn & Wound
Patek Philippe 2499 Jun 22, 2024

Watches, Stories, & Gear: The Bugatti Tourbillon, John Lennon’s Watch, and Brewing Ancient Beer

“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear. Share your story ideas or interesting finds with us by emailing info@wornandwound.com The Story Behind John Lennon’s Patek   We saw one of the most fascinating watch stories of the year come to light this week via The New Yorker, with a long piece diving into the strange history of John Lennon’s Patek Philippe 2499. For decades, the whereabouts of this watch had been unknown to the general public – it was considered one of the great “lost” watches. The story, written by Jay Fielden, covers the known history of Lennon’s 2499, including it being given as a gift to Lennon by Yoko Ono for his 40th birthday, the theft of the watch in 2005, and legal wrangling in Swiss courts to determine the rightful owner. It also, for the first time, gives us a glimpse of the caseback engraving, a message to Lennon from his wife, photographed for an Auctionata auction that was set to take place in 2013, but never went to market.  Pentax Introduces their First Film Camera in 20 Years  Film photography has had a bit of a resurgence in recent years, and Pentax has just gotten into the game with a compelling new film camera, their first in two decades. The Pentax 17, which reta...

Bugatti Taps Watch Movement Maker for Tourbillon Hybrid Supercar SJX Watches
Jun 22, 2024

Bugatti Taps Watch Movement Maker for Tourbillon Hybrid Supercar

The Molsheim-based marque just unveiled the successor to its Chiron supercar – and one with a surprising horological connection – the Bugatti Tourbillon. With Croatian auto entrepreneur at Mate Rimac at the helm, Bugatti created a completely new hypercar that features an all-new platform with a naturally-aspirated V16 engine paired with a plug-in hybrid powertrain that together produce a staggering 1,800 hp – matched by a €3.8 million price tag. The Tourbillon surprised car enthusiasts as it is very much an old-school internal-combustion-engine hypercar, and not merely a rebadged, high-performance electric vehicle of that sort that made Mr Rimac famous. Watch enthusiasts, on the other hand, might be surprised at the horological aspect of the car, which goes beyond the “tourbillon” moniker and harks back to vintage automobiles that sported dashboard instruments by the likes of Jaeger and Kienzle. The Tourbillon that will be limited to 250 units. Image – Bugatti Despite the technology contained within the car, Bugatti opted for something almost anachronistic in the cockpit. The brand pays tribute to traditional horological engineering with an analogue, mechanical instrument cluster sitting front and centre on the steering column. The instrument panel is mounted on a fixed-hub steering wheel so it remains in place even as the rim of the steering wheel rotates around it. The Tourbillon will be delivered starting 2026. Image – Bugatti Having partnered with Parmi...

Photo Report: Blade Show 2024  Recap Worn & Wound
Jun 21, 2024

Photo Report: Blade Show 2024 Recap

Blade Show Atlanta is known as the mecca for anything pocket knife or edge tool related. Touted as the “World’s Largest Knife Show,” it offers an astonishing selection of blades, from cutting edge designs to traditional heritage pieces.  Much like the Windup Watch fair, Blade Show offers a unique experience to explore new brands, shop exclusive offerings, and connect with their favorite manufacturers.  At this year’s show, I was able to connect with some of my favorite brands, namely Big Idea Design, Notorious EDC, OEG EDC, Tactile Turn/Knife Company, and Benchmade: vendors whose products make up the majority of my carry and help me solve problems every day.  While it’s wonderful to experience all of the vendors and their offerings, the one thing that takes this show to another level is the people you’ll meet. I love to chat with manufacturers and learn more about their items and work process, but I find the most joy in connecting with other attendees and content creators in the industry. Over the three day show, I was able to connect face-to-face with countless people who I’ve met digitally over social media, and have inspired me to create new content, push boundaries, and grow as a photographer. One brand in particular, Bober Blades was super interesting to check out in person their build process was exciting to learn about.  From watches to patches, and pocket knives to swords, there’s no shortage of amazing gear at Blade Show.  Throughout this arti...

The Latest Collaboration Between TAG Heuer and Porsche Celebrates the German Automaker’s History in Endurance Racing Worn & Wound
TAG Heuer Jun 17, 2024

The Latest Collaboration Between TAG Heuer and Porsche Celebrates the German Automaker’s History in Endurance Racing

TAG Heuer has unveiled their latest Carrera, another collaboration with Porsche, officially dubbed the Carrera Chronograph x Porsche 963. As watch enthusiasts know, there’s a range of how “Porschey” these collaborations get. Sometimes they simply have the German automaker’s badge slapped onto the watch somewhere, and sometimes the connection is very inside baseball, like when TAG made a new chronograph movement that accelerated at the same rate as a classic 911. This new watch is somewhere in the middle, with some clever visual winks to the car that inspired it, but nothing new under the hood.  The new watch takes its specific inspiration from Porsche’s success in endurance racing. The Porsche 963, developed under Le Mans Daytona Hybrid regulations, is the current pinnacle of Porsche’s expertise in endurance, a tradition that goes back decades. This is an aggressive take on the Carrera, which is a watch that we’ve seen wear many different capes in recent years. It’s a platform that is perhaps most at home as a traditional, elegant, gentleman’s racing chronograph, but can flex into something far more contemporary with relative ease.  The 44mm case is stainless steel and coated in black PVD, and has been accented with a carbon fiber bezel with a tachymetric scale. Naturally we get a complex, skeletonized dial (nothing says “modern and contemporary” like skeletonization, I guess) as well as plenty of lume. The lume is actually what most closely links t...

New Colours and Cases for the Singer Reimagined 1969 SJX Watches
Jun 17, 2024

New Colours and Cases for the Singer Reimagined 1969

Singer Reimagined is dropping new variants of the 1969 Chronograph and 1969 Timer that maintain the same design as the originals from last year, but with the option of a new case material, bronze, as well as new dial colours. The bronze models get a matte green dial, while the steel variants have a sun-ray, silver-toned dial. Initial thoughts An outlier amongst watch brands, Singer Reimagined is actually the sister brand of Singer Vehicle Design, one of the most prominent rebuilders of vintage Porsches. So rather than the usual watch brand making a car-inspired watch, it is a carmaker making a watch. The 1969 Timer The unusual chronograph display, retro cushion-shaped case, and racetrack-inspired bracelet all have clear automotive inspiration and are fairly unique in themselves, but for watch enthusiasts the key selling point will be the Agenhor movements (both are equipped with variants of the same base calibre). The movement is especially notable for its ingenious construction, where amongst other innovations the rotor is placed underneath the dial to provide an unobstructed view of the moving parts. The 1969 Chronograph movement Priced at CHF31,500 and CHF53,500 respectively, the 1969 Timer and the 1969 Chronograph aren’t inexpensive. While the 1969 Timer is relatively simple as a one-minute timer and consequently pricey, the chronograph is priced fairly given the unique nature of the movement. New variations of existing lineups The Singer Reimagined 1969 models share...

Black Is The New Black! Five Pieces Of 2024 Stealth From Breitling, Swatch, Seiko, And More Fratello
Breitling Swatch Seiko Jun 15, 2024

Black Is The New Black! Five Pieces Of 2024 Stealth From Breitling, Swatch, Seiko, And More

White-out designs and stealthy black go in and out of fashion, but seeing a resurgence of stealthy cool this year underlines that black is black. And sometimes that is just right. Whether you want literal stealth wealth to go with your fave black suit or are employed as a secret operative, that’s your business. But […] Visit Black Is The New Black! Five Pieces Of 2024 Stealth From Breitling, Swatch, Seiko, And More to read the full article.

Hands-On With The New TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 300 Date And GMT Fratello
TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 300 Date Jun 15, 2024

Hands-On With The New TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 300 Date And GMT

As Mike Stockton recently announced on Fratello, TAG Heuer has updated its large Aquaracer. The 43mm model got a 1mm downsize, new caliber, and new dial, among other changes. Mike did a great job describing all the changes but did not have the chance to try the new watches on. Since then, I have, so […] Visit Hands-On With The New TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 300 Date And GMT to read the full article.

Introducing – New Colours and Materials for the Singer Reimagined 1969 Chrono and 1969 Timer Monochrome
Jun 13, 2024

Introducing – New Colours and Materials for the Singer Reimagined 1969 Chrono and 1969 Timer

Singer Reimagined, founded by Rob Dickinson of Singer Vehicle Design fame and Marco Borraccino, a watch designer, raced into the watch world with the Track 1, an incredible 1970s-inspired chronograph with a high-end movement designed by watch wizard Jean-Marc Wiederrecht (Agenhor). Capitalising on the profound ties between petrol heads and cog heads, Singer Reimagined is […]

More MoonSwatch: Omega and Swatch Team Up Again for a “Mission on Earth” Worn & Wound
Blancpain x Swatch “Scuba” Fifty Jun 12, 2024

More MoonSwatch: Omega and Swatch Team Up Again for a “Mission on Earth”

There are only a few certainties in life: death, taxes, and new MoonSwatches being released every five or six months. Yes, as you’ve undoubtedly heard by now, Swatch and Omega have once again taken over your Instagram feed, knocking out three new versions of the MoonSwatch. This release follows a pair of Snoopy themed MoonSwatch moonphases, and of course the Blancpain x Swatch “Scuba” Fifty Fathoms. These new MoonSwatches hew closer to the original idea of the watch, but each is just a little extra, like guacamole on a burrito, which one of them kind of looks like if you squint.  The three watches seen here make up the MoonSwatch “Mission on Earth” series, and as the name would suggest are inspired by earthbound phenomena. The “Desert” variant has a tan BioCeramic case and taupe dial, with an aesthetic inspired by, well, the desert. Slightly more adventurous is the “Lava” MoonSwatch, with a bright red case and an orange chronograph seconds hand that pays homage to the Omega “Ultraman” Speedmaster. The third watch, and the best of the three in my opinion, is the “Polar Lights,” which features a turquoise case and a dial inspired by the aesthetic of aventurine.  As many readers will surely recall, I’m not the biggest fan of the MoonSwatch. What was once a charming idea and perhaps a way to get new enthusiasts into the hobby quickly became something of a money grab. A predictable result, no doubt. But now that there’s a regular cadence to these...

Our Favorite Summer Watches Worn & Wound
Jun 10, 2024

Our Favorite Summer Watches

Every year, the conversation begins anew. As the weather gets warmer, watch enthusiasts reach for the “summer watch.” But what is a summer watch, anyway? Can a watch have an inherent seasonality? If there are summer watches, are there also winter watches, or autumn watches? These are the existential questions that keep watch collectors up at night, frankly. While we might not have all the answers, we do have picks for our favorite summer watches, however we choose to define the term.  Our editorial team weighs in on their favorite summer watches below, but we want to hear from you. What are you wearing this summer? Is it any different from what you wear at any other time of year? And how do you define a summer watch anyway? Let us know in the comments. Zach Weiss  Despite being a June baby, I hate the summer. It’s too hot, especially in NYC in August when the humidity really kicks in. The pavement radiates heat back up at you, and everything that never smelled good to begin with is much more potent. Let me tell you, the subways are worse than they’ve been at any point in my lifetime. I also walk a lot. I walk a few miles to the office and then home again in the evening, so comfort and sweat are on my mind.  Because of this, I don’t think about my watches in terms of the season but rather straps, as they can make all the difference on a humid 90-degree day, which, for me, really means mil-straps. I don’t want to ruin my leather straps with sweat. I find brace...

Pastel Dials for the Parmigiani Tonda PF Sport Chronograph SJX Watches
Jun 10, 2024

Pastel Dials for the Parmigiani Tonda PF Sport Chronograph

After unveiling the Tonda PF “No Date” earlier this year, Parmigiani continues to expand its line of sports watches, now with the Tonda PF Sport Chronograph in pastel shades of grey as well a “Milano Blue”, while retaining the clou triangulaire guilloché. Milano Blue (left), Arctic Grey (middle), and London Grey (right) Initial thoughts  The Tonda PF Sport is a more elegant alternative to conventional sports chronographs. The guilloché dial is decorative but sporty with “panda” registers, while the case feels relatively slim. And the new dial colours add to the appeal, both by offering more variety and a less traditional palette. The changes are only cosmetic, with the dial, case, and PF070 movement remaining the same. Consequently, the price remains rightly unchanged at CHF29,700 – a fair value proposition especially considering the specs and construction of the PF070. New colourways The latest models are fundamentally new variants of the Tonda PF Sport Chronograph released last year. They retain the same clean styling, with silvered dials and contrasting registers, a look historically associated with motor racing-inspired chronographs. The dial includes the customary applied “PF” emblem at 12 and a date window between four and five. Although it contrasts against the dial, the date display is relatively discreet and coherent design-wise. The date numerals sits vertical in a square window, presumably to evoke a dashboard instrument panel. The dial is d...

The Petrolhead Corner – A Restomod on a (Relative) Budget, this is the Superb Mecanica Alma Sprint Monochrome
Jun 8, 2024

The Petrolhead Corner – A Restomod on a (Relative) Budget, this is the Superb Mecanica Alma Sprint

The words “Alfa” and “Romeo” are enough to get most car lovers and petrolheads drooling with excitement. The famous Italian manufacturer is loved for its gorgeous designs, lively driving characteristics and boatloads of charm. But, despite their reputation for glorious cars such as the 8C, Giulia, Disco Volante and many others, there have been plenty […]

Fratelli Stories: How Andre Combines His Passions For Watches And Diving Fratello
Rolex Sea-Dweller Underwater photography Jun 7, 2024

Fratelli Stories: How Andre Combines His Passions For Watches And Diving

In this edition of Fratelli Stories, we learn more about Fratello reader Andre. He combines his passions for diving and underwater photography with his love of horology. This includes his fondness for his favorite diving companion, a Rolex Sea-Dweller. Underwater photography is a passion of mine as well. The underwater world is both enchanting and […] Visit Fratelli Stories: How Andre Combines His Passions For Watches And Diving to read the full article.

Introducing the A1, the Debut Watch from Anoma Worn & Wound
Holthinrichs Jun 6, 2024

Introducing the A1, the Debut Watch from Anoma

This is a really good time to be interested in avant-garde watches. It seems like every week there are new watches coming to market and being announced that are well outside the confines of the “vintage inspired black dialed diver” that only a few years ago seemed to have been everywhere. Just yesterday we told you about an exciting new release from Holthinrichs, for instance. Before that, the debut watch from Toledano & Chan sold out in just minutes. As I write this I’m simultaneously finalizing my hands-on review of the Amida Digitrend, a throwback and a truly unusual design. And I happen to be wearing my trusty Arcanaut Arc II. If you have adventurous taste, you’re spoiled for choice at the moment with affordable options in all kinds of odd case shapes and dial executions that will surely be nothing like anything else at the local watch meetup. Today, a new watch from a new brand can be added to the conversation: the Anoma A1.  Anoma is a new brand founded by Matteo Violet Vianello, a longtime watch collector and one of the first employees at A Collected Man, where he sourced rare watches for clients and worked closely with some of the most prestigious independent brands. If you know A Collected Man, you know how expertly curated every sales listing and piece of editorial content is, and the A1 has the look and feel of a watch created by someone who has seen a lot of watches. Every tiny detail has been carefully considered, and the result is a genuinely unique ...

18 Roman Numeral-Dial Watches From Under $500 to $40,000 Teddy Baldassarre
Jun 6, 2024

18 Roman Numeral-Dial Watches From Under $500 to $40,000

In an era when the line between what is a sports watch and what is a dress watch have been blurred substantially, the presence of Roman numerals on your watch’s dial is one of the last reliable hallmarks that identify it as a timepiece meant for dressing up, not down; a watch designed with classical elegance in mind more so than robustness or even optimum legibility. Of course, Roman numerals in general are rarely encountered in most people’s modern lives, the annual naming and marketing of Super Bowls being the rare exception. Thus, watches with Roman-numeral dials are relatively rare in the horological wild as well, albeit still occupying an appealing niche embraced by many watch manufacturers as well as by an avid core of enthusiasts. Here, we’ve tracked down 18 that are on the market in 2024; as per our usual format, they’re spotlighted in ascending order of price and represent a wide range of price points. Orient Bambino Day-Date Price: $410, Case Size: 40.5mm, Thickness: 12.6mm, Lug to Lug: 46.5mm, Lug Width: 21mm, Crystal: Mineral, Water Resistance: 30 meters, Movement: Automatic F6B22 Often under the radar of American watch consumers and overshadowed by its larger Japanese brethren, Citizen and Seiko (which with it shares a corporate connection through Epson), Orient has been making value-oriented watches in Japan since 1950. The Bambino, Orient’s dressy gents’ model, offers simple three-handed options and a handful of “quiet” complications, like th...

#TBT A Farewell Song For My All-Black Breitling Navitimer Ref. 806 Fratello
Breitling Navitimer Ref 806 Jun 6, 2024

#TBT A Farewell Song For My All-Black Breitling Navitimer Ref. 806

The Breitling Navitimer 806 with a black dial and sub-dials was on my wish list for quite a time. But it is not an easy watch to get your hands on. Despite that fact, I had two of them within the last two years. Well, as of today, I don’t have any either anymore. Let’s […] Visit #TBT A Farewell Song For My All-Black Breitling Navitimer Ref. 806 to read the full article.

A Major Move for Holthinrichs: the Signature Collection Worn & Wound
Holthinrichs Jun 5, 2024

A Major Move for Holthinrichs: the Signature Collection

Holthinrichs Watches has been a personal favorite brand of mine since I first encountered them shortly after their launch in 2016. They have always had a completely unique design language and a somewhat uncompromising vision, diving deeper and deeper into their “Horlogerie Brut” philosophy (working with pure metals and creating color through galvanic plating, anodization, or natural patination) with every passing release. A big part of their business model since the inception of the brand has been creating custom pieces for clients, a process that has proven to be expensive and time consuming, especially on complex platforms like the Deconstructed, a watch that pushes their manufacturing capabilities to their limits. As the brand’s ambitions have grown, the prices have come up as well, and for many of us the thought of owning a Holthinrichs at the $5,000-$6,000 level has gradually faded. But a new series from the brand, the Signature line, has put them back in play for value oriented enthusiasts and collectors without sacrificing the signature (get it?) Holthinrichs aesthetic. It’s one of the most exciting releases of the year.  There are multiple watches within the new Signature collection to discuss, but they all share a common principle, and it comes down to the case and the way these watches are made. Holthinrichs, since their founding, has been a pioneer in 3D printed cases, which allowed for some of their more avant-garde designs to be more easily realized, ...

Breguet Connects the Dots between Art and Time at Frieze New York Quill & Pad
Breguet Connects May 31, 2024

Breguet Connects the Dots between Art and Time at Frieze New York

Breguet was an engineer, an astronomer and also a designer. He adapted certain techniques to horology, such as guilloché, for example. The art of Breguet is in the details, in the finishing, and the artworks at Frieze are also all about the details … an artwork is something you have to look at multiple times, and each time, you're going to discover different things.

First Look – Parmigiani Introduces Three Fresh Colours to the Tonda PF Sport Chronograph Monochrome
Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda went through May 30, 2024

First Look – Parmigiani Introduces Three Fresh Colours to the Tonda PF Sport Chronograph

Designed by Michel Parmigiani, the classic Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda went through a tasteful facelift as an integrated sports watch following the appointment of Guido Terreni at the helm of the brand. The collection quickly proved to be a hit, which was further supported by the introduction of several new models, including the smart and innovative […]

Richard Mille Unveils the RM 27-05 Rafael Nadal SJX Watches
Richard Mille Unveils May 30, 2024

Richard Mille Unveils the RM 27-05 Rafael Nadal

Described by the brand as the “climactic conclusion” of the line of ultra-light watches made for the tennis champion, the RM 27-05 Flying Tourbillon Rafael Nadal weighs just 11.5 g without its strap – or about two sheets of A4 printer paper. Like many of Richard Mille’s watches, the RM 27-05 is cased in carbon composite, specifically Carbon TPT B.4. More compact than the brand’s typical watches, the tonneau-shaped case is a compact 37.25mm by 7.2 mm. And according to Richard Mille, it is shock resistant to about 14,000 g. Initial thoughts Richard Mille was the first to make ultra-light a thing in watches with the RM009 ALUSiC that was introduced almost 20 years ago. The brand took the concept to the extreme with the RM 27 that debuted in 2010. Weighing just 13 g without the strap, it was conceived for Rafael Nadal to wear while playing tennis. The watches have gotten even lighter since then, and the RM 27-05 is the final chapter in the series. Weighing essentially nothing at 11.5 g without the strap, it is as lightweight as it gets for a mechanical watch of this type. Besides being the most extreme example of Richard Mille’s ultra-light philosophy, the RM 27-05 is also quintessential Richard Mille in terms of style. The notched outline and vents on the case, and the hyper-mechanical appearance of the skeleton movement, are very much typical of the brand’s current design ethos. In short the watch is very much Richard Mille. That also holds true for the price, ...

Introducing: The Gérald Genta-Designed Credor Locomotive Makes A Comeback Fratello
Gerald Genta May 30, 2024

Introducing: The Gérald Genta-Designed Credor Locomotive Makes A Comeback

The Credor Locomotive is a fascinating design from the late 1970s. Today, the brand has brought it back to life. Let’s take a first look at this rather special timepiece and find out more. Anything Gérald Genta once touched (or, rather, designed) may as well have turned to gold. We’ve seen many brands leverage his […] Visit Introducing: The Gérald Genta-Designed Credor Locomotive Makes A Comeback to read the full article.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Debuts the Polaris Geographic SJX Watches
Jaeger-LeCoultre Debuts May 30, 2024

Jaeger-LeCoultre Debuts the Polaris Geographic

The newest member of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s line of sports watches, the Polaris Geographic is a dual time zone in a modern “ocean grey” with orange accents with a practical dial layout showing a second time zone, day-night indicator, cities disc for the world time, and the power reserve. Initial thoughts Jaeger-LeCoultre (JLC) first introduced this complication over three decades ago as the Géographique, a full-featured travel watch that stood out from most of the simpler travel watches of the time. But it had a fairly cluttered dial, so the new Geographic is simplified, with the key change being the removal of the date. This streamlines the aesthetic though some might find the date more practical than the power reserve indicator. The movement inside is an upgraded version of the calibre in the 1990s Géographique and now has a three-day power reserve, but is still relatively complex to set. A more useful update would have been a more intuitive time zone-setting function.  The Polaris Geographic retails for US$16,100, which feels steep, particularly since JLC has historically been affordable more affordable watchmaking of good, industrial-artisanal quality.  A diving dual time zone The new Geographic adopts the style of the Polaris line, which is a modern-ish dive watch look with an inner rotation bezel. The layout remains the familiar one found on past generations of the model, with the second time zone in a sub-dial at six and the day-night indicator to its left. A...

Louis Erard Unveils Affordable “Grand Feu” Enamel Regulator SJX Watches
Ulysse Nardin May 29, 2024

Louis Erard Unveils Affordable “Grand Feu” Enamel Regulator

Though Louis Erard is best known for its high-profile collaborations with independent watchmakers like Konstantin Chaykin and Cédric Johner, the brand’s specialty is making interesting watchmaking accessible. Its signature complication is the regulator display complication, which has served as the foundation for several limited editions. The brand continues to do that with the Le Régulateur Grand Feu Enamel, a regulator wristwatch featuring a two-part fired enamel dial in striking ivory. Initial thoughts The new release has a subtle ivory dial produced in a traditional manner, resulting in a glossy, nuanced finish feel evocative of dials usually found on pricier timepieces. Its contemporary typeface and numerals complements minimalist style. Dial aside, the latest regulator is identical to the standard model and contains the same Sellita calibre. As a result, despite the elegant styling, it’s a chunky watch that’s almost 14 mm thick. Nevertheless, this keeps the Le Régulateur Grand Feu Enamel affordable at CHF4,400, which is strong value considering that most watches with such dials cost at least twice as much. Ivory enamel Louis Erard once again turned to Donzé Cadrans, the enamel dial specialist owned by Ulysse Nardin, for this grand feu enamel dial. Unsurprisingly Donzé was also the supplier for the ivory enamel dial in Excellence Email Grand Feu in 2021.  The time-only Excellence Email Grand Feu The production of grand feu enamel dials has a high rejection...