Quill & Pad
Presenting the Black Tulip by Annelinde Dunselman: New Independent Watchmaker, New Watch
"Making my own watch is a bit like flying like an eagle high in the sky, seeing everything hearing everything and going where I want."
Results for Flying Tourbillon
2,119 articles · 139 videos found · page 63 of 76
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Wiki · Guide
Tourbillon
Breguet's 1801 rotating-cage escapement, explained.
Wiki · Guide
Flying Tourbillon
Alfred Helwig's 1920 tourbillon variant with no upper bridge; the entire cage is visible.
Quill & Pad
Deployant
Watching the CEO: Xavier de Roquemaurel on the new Czapek
We caught up with Xavier de Roquemaurel, CEO of Czapek and got a deeper understanding behind the new Antarctique Tourbillon.
Monochrome
Introducing – The New Biver Automatique Yellow Gold & Atelier Series Carbon Edition
In 2023, Jean-Claude Biver, an industry veteran who requires no introduction, returned to the spotlight after retiring from his latest position at LVMH when, with his son Pierre, he unveiled the Biver Carillon Tourbillon, the debut timepiece from the newly minted family-name brand. True to form, expectations were sky-high, with the launch setting a tone […]
Deployant
New: Roger Dubuis Excalibur Grande Complication
New from Roger Dubuis, a Grande Complication arrives to the Excalibur with a perpetual calendar with bi-retrograde display, minute repeater and tourbillon.
Fratello
Vacheron Constantin Celebrates Its 270th Anniversary With Three Traditionnelle Openface Models
Vacheron Constantin’s anniversary celebrations do not go unnoticed. The 270-year-old horology house kicked things off in January with the stainless steel version of the Historiques 222. Yesterday, it unveiled a high-end follow-up to that release with the stunning new Les Cabinotiers Solaria Ultra Grand Complication, the most complicated wristwatch ever created. Add the Traditionnelle Tourbillon […] Visit Vacheron Constantin Celebrates Its 270th Anniversary With Three Traditionnelle Openface Models to read the full article.
![[VIDEO] Grand Seiko Redefines Accuracy – Again: Introducing the 9RB2 U.F.A. Spring Drive Caliber](https://wornandwound.com/library/uploads/2025/03/GS_WW_UFA_021WR.jpg)
Worn & Wound
[VIDEO] Grand Seiko Redefines Accuracy – Again: Introducing the 9RB2 U.F.A. Spring Drive Caliber
2022: the Kodo constant force tourbillon. 2023: the Tentagraph hi-beat mechanical chronograph. 2024: the 9SA4 manual wound, hi-beat, dual-impulse escapement caliber, and Kodo Daybreak. It’s easy to forget that Grand Seiko has brought the proverbial heat to Watches & Wonders every year since the fair started, unveiling something that one could call “revolutionary” for the brand, if on varying scales. Well, it’s looking like 2025 will continue the trend with the introduction of Spring Drive Caliber 9RB2, the first caliber with U.F.A., or Ultra Fine Accuracy, designation. Before proceeding, there are two important concepts to understand: Spring Drive and Grand Seiko’s history with acronyms (which, if you know, feel free to jump two paragraphs ahead). Starting with the former, the elevator pitch, which I will take from our article dedicated to the topic is “Spring Drive combines the best of mechanical watchmaking and the best of quartz timekeeping to create a state-of-the-art caliber that lacks the weaknesses inherent to both of these movements.” A bit deeper, Spring Drive movements use the energy stored in a traditional mainspring to drive their proprietary “Tri-synchro” regulator, which replaces the classic lever escapement. It consists of a glide wheel, the rate of which is controlled by an electromagnetic brake, and is essentially regulated by an integrated circuit with a quartz oscillator. The result is a mechanical movement with quartz-like accuracy and...
Monochrome
First Look – The New Frozen Editions of the H. Moser Streamliner Flyback Chronograph Automatic
The Streamliner collection was introduced by H. Moser & Cie in 2020 and was an overnight success. Its groovy integrated cushion design was fresh, original and brilliantly executed. Since its inception, we’ve seen a wide range of time-only, perpetual calendar, tourbillon and chronograph models, and even several fascinating skeletonised iterations. Moser also loves to play […]
Monochrome
Introducing – The Horage DecaFlux and the new K3 Automatic Calibre
Horage, the independent Swiss brand based in Bienne, has achieved quite a lot since in-house movement development began in 2009 – four movements that include the K1 automatic, K2 micro-rotor, K-TOU tourbillon and K-TMR micro-rotor tourbillon. And now a fifth movement is being introduced, the modular, COSC-certified K3 automatic that’s debuting in the new DecaFlux […]
SJX Watches
Hands On: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept KAWS “Companion”
Launched a few months ago, the Royal Oak Concept Tourbillon “Companion” 43 mm is Audemars Piguet’s first collaboration with Kaws, the contemporary artist best known for work inspired by Mickey Mouse and The Simpsons. While the Kaws edition is not the first AP pop culture collab, it is arguably the best. Initial thoughts I like the Royal Oak Concept Kaws, more than any of AP’s other pop culture collaborations. I like the aesthetic, feel, and execution (though not the oversized case), which put this amongst the best contemporary art crossovers in watchmaking. The Hublot-Murakami series is another outstanding artist-watchmaker collab, but the AP-Kaws watch is executed to a much higher level of quality (and price). Visually, the Kaws is big and bold, but rendered in muted, monochromatic grey – a paradoxical but complementary combination. At a distance the watch seems like yet another oversized Royal Oak, but up close it gets more interesting, starting with the fact that it has no hands in the traditional sense. The lack of hands (which are replaced with peripheral pointers) make this a little more interesting, since the cal. 2979 is a new movement that’s a variant of AP’s more conventional tourbillon calibre. I appreciate the fact that the movement was developed for this watch, both in order to accommodate the figure on the dial and to incorporate the “padded” Kaws aesthetic into the movement bridges on the back. Adding a mechanical complication to the Kaws s...
Worn & Wound
Isotope Introduces a Pair of Mercury Limited Editions for British Watchmakers’ Day
Suppose you travel frequently between the US and Britain. In that case, one difference you’ll notice pretty swiftly after escaping the airport is the proliferation (and absence) of flags depending on which side of the pond you have arrived. Over here, you’ll typically only see a Union Flag flying outside official buildings, or on literally everything inside the many tourist shops around London. It’s not generally seen outside schools, homes or shops. However, we Brits do let a smidgen of patriotism creep out on occasion. The “Last Night of the Proms” even encourages flag waving (and rhythmic bobbing), and we feel a sense of pride celebrating Olympic medals won by superhuman efforts from individuals we only heard about two and a half hours earlier. Display the Union Flag on a watch and most Brits would turn their nose up. A stylized version of the same idea, but created by a watch brand based in the south of England, started by a gentleman from Portugal, and available in very limited numbers, and it’s a whole lot more acceptable. Sometimes we take a little outside encouragement to embrace such things. Isotope is unveiling two watches for British Watch Makers’ Day 2025, which both make vivid use of the Union Flag – the Mercury BWD Cloisonné and Mercury BWD Micro Marquetry. Isotope’s Mercury was first seen last summer in the form of a limited edition with Revolution, and was followed by a Shadow variant which used the same case and movement but a brushed in...
Fratello
Introducing: The BA111OD Chapter 7 Certified Chronometer
Since 2019, BA111OD has offered edgy, affordable Swiss timepieces. The brand from Neuchatel offers a tourbillon, manufacture complications, and several avant-garde mechanical watches. The models even have chapter names, and today’s piece, the Chapter 7, is the first to receive a chronometer certification. With rising prices from many traditional “high street” brands, smaller independent watch […] Visit Introducing: The BA111OD Chapter 7 Certified Chronometer to read the full article.
Monochrome
Introducing – Grönefeld Releases its First Ladies’ Watch, the 1944 Tanfana
Accomplished third-generation Dutch watchmakers Tim and Bart Grönefeld released their first watch in 2008, a complex minute repeater and tourbillon that set the tone for the brand’s trajectory. Trained in Switzerland, the Horological Brothers set up their atelier in their hometown, Oldenzaal, and are renowned for their reduced but horologically rich offering of exquisite handmade […]
Teddy Baldassarre
Bring This Watch Back: Breitling Chronoliner
Breitling is known historically for two specialties: chronographs and pilot’s watches. Despite the very real popularity of its Superocean dive watches, the legendary status of high-tech “smart” models like the analog-digital Emergency, and the renewed dress-watch cred attained by the elegant Premier collection, it is the models most closely associated with both flying and timing — the Chronomat and Navitimer — that continue to best embody Breitling’s DNA, at least to most savvy enthusiasts. However, both the Chronomat and the Navitimer possess distinctive features that might be, for lack of a better descriptor, polarizing. The former has those angular rider tabs around the bezel and that big, bulbous crown; the latter sports that emblematic, circular slide-rule scale that dominates the dial, which looks cool yet busy and which few wearers actually know how to use. Both are luxurious, impeccably designed watches with sporty, tool-oriented origins rooted in aviation and navigation, but neither is really a gent’s dress chronograph in the traditional sense of the phrase. To be fair, Breitling does make a chronograph family that strives for both utility and elegance — that would be the previously mentioned Premier — but as it’s not aviation-minded in its aesthetic, it’s not “quintessential Breitling” for many folks. For a short while, however — from 2015 to around 2020 or so — Breitling made such a watch, even positioning it in the market as it...
Teddy Baldassarre
Price of Admission: What Are The Least Expensive Breguet Watches?
For those in the know, Breguet is a name in the history of watchmaking that commands instant respect, and even reverence. The brand’s legendary founder, Abraham-Louis Breguet, is rightfully lauded as the inventor of the tourbillon, but his lifetime horological resumé goes far beyond even that: he made the first self-winding movement, the first watch that was wound by a crown rather than a key, the pare-chute shock protection system, and the gong system for repeater watches, among other innovations. His customers included historical figures like King Louis XVI of France, Queen Marie-Antoinette, and Napoleon Bonaparte. He even invented a style of hands that many other watchmakers other than Breguet still use today. The modern brand that bears his name is one of the undisputed, upper-echelon Swiss watch maisons, alongside names like Vacheron Constantin and Audemars Piguet, and the jewel in the crown of the Swatch Group. All that said and acknowledged, a newcomer to Breguet, especially the prospective owner of his or her first Breguet watch, may find all of this background intimidating. And make no mistake, Breguet is unapologetic in both its embrace of historical renown and its timepieces’ exalted level of luxury. The brand’s modern-day stewards harbor no illusion that they offer anything that would be any aficionado’s “first watch.” The whole concept of “entry level” must be stretched a bit at this venerated tier of watchmaking: like Patek Philippe, A. Lan...
Teddy Baldassarre
Daniel Roth Extra Plat Souscription Review
Back in 2023, LVMH and its high watchmaking workshop La Fabrique du Temps revived the Daniel Roth brand, which had been owned by Bulgari since 2000. Roth was a towering name in independent watchmaking, having been a peer of Philippe Dufour and Francois-Paul Journe. Though the brand only lasted from 1988 to 1995, its resurrection in 2023 was only made more glorious due to the long gap. The resurrected brand debuted with the Tourbillon Souscription, which has been followed up with the new Daniel Roth Extra Plat Souscription, a faithful remake of the original from the 1990s that was released at LVMH Watch Week 2025. The “Neo-vintage” craze has only gotten more popular in recent years, with the generation of watches sandwiched between vintage and modern gaining the respect and appreciation of collectors and newcomers alike. The Chopard L.U.C 1860 reissue from 2023 was one of the most celebrated neo-vintage reissues in recent years and I’d venture to say that this Roth will join the ranks. Staying true to the original aesthetics — with contemporary concessions for things like movement development — is a recipe for success in these small-batch, high-visibility watches. Small production numbers for relative rarity are helping to keep neo-vintage from becoming overexposed, but for how long? We’ll have to wait and see on that end, but for now let’s get back to the Daniel Roth Extra Plat Souscription. The simple, two-hand dress watch comes in that recognizable double-e...
Fratello
A Hands-On Introduction To The Daniel Roth Extra-Plat Souscription
Just about one year ago, Daniel Roth presented the finished Tourbillon Souscription watch in yellow gold. After announcing the return of the Daniel Roth brand in March 2023, the Tourbillon Souscription was the first project and a nod to the debut model (Tourbillon ref. C187) from Daniel Roth’s watch brand in 1989. Now, after releasing […] Visit A Hands-On Introduction To The Daniel Roth Extra-Plat Souscription to read the full article.
Monochrome
First Look – The New Daniel Roth Extra Plat Souscription
Almost two years ago, the Daniel Roth brand was resurrected by Louis Vuitton’s La Fabrique Du Temps. It started with a yellow gold Tourbillon Souscription (ref. DR0011YG-01) that was pretty much a copy of the tourbillon made by Monsieur Roth back in the 1990s. After another tourbillon in rose gold that was introduced last year, […]
SJX Watches
Daniel Roth Unveils Extra Plat Souscription
Continuing with its revival, Daniel Roth debuts its second modern-day timepiece, the Extra Plat Souscription. Hewing to the formula established by the Tourbillon Souscription, the Extra Plat Souscription stays faithful to the 1990s original in size and style, but is equipped with an all-new calibre developed from the ground up. Like the Tourbillon Souscription, the Extra Plat Souscription debuts as a 20-piece limited edition in 18k yellow gold, matched with a guilloche dial in solid 18k yellow gold. Initial thoughts As with the Tourbillon before it, the Extra Plat Souscription looks and feels like the original at a distance, but reveals a higher degree of refinement up close. This is especially evident on the dial that is covered in finely grained guilloche, done with a hand-operated straight-line engine. In fact, the Extra Plat is arguably more sophisticated than the equivalent original, more so than the Tourbillon. The 1990s-era model was fitted with Frederic Piguet movements, either manual-wind or automatic depending on the variant, which were fine calibres but relatively industrial and widely used by higher-end brands like Blancpain. The DR002 in the new Extra Plat, on the other hand, is a new construction with the refinements expected in a watch of this calibre (and price). It’s shame that the movement is concealed behind a solid back, but that will become an open back with the subsequent, regular-production version. While the new Extra Plat is a beautiful homage th...
SJX Watches
Hands On: Greubel Forsey Hand Made 2
In a fortuitous turn of events, Mark Zuckerberg was spotted with the Greubel Forsey Hand Made 1 just a week ago – just in time for the debut of the Hand Made 2. Unlike its predecessor that was equipped with a tourbillon, the Hand Made 2 is “merely” a three-hander with a power reserve indicator, presented in a more compact case that’s just under 41 mm. But like the first model, the Hand Made 2 is mostly made with traditional, hand-operated tools – specifically, 96% of the watch is made this way, an endeavour that requires 5,000 hours of work according to Greubel Forsey. (NB: The watch pictured is a prototype and is not perfectly clean.) Initial thoughts The Hand Made 2 is essentially the Hand Made 1 scaled down in every respect – dimensions, complexity, and price – except for the manual production methods and fine finishing, which remain impressive and outstanding. Even at arm’s length the quality of the Hand Made 2 is obvious. Up close, it is evident all of the details have been properly taken care of. As it was with the Hand Made 1, the second edition is also impressive for what cannot be seen – tolerances and precision that are equivalent to Greubel Forsey’s serial-production watches made with automated equipment. Achieving that with manual equipment is impressive and no doubt explains a good deal of the price. Surprisingly, the Hand Made 2 looks more complicated than its predecessor, despite doing away with the tourbillon. That’s because the archit...
Monochrome
Introducing – Delma Presents a Purple Edition of its Midland Sporty-Chic Watch
A brand with a rich legacy and a strong focus on solid quality for accessible prices, Delma is renowned for its super-powerful dive watches, such as the 5,000m-rated Blue Shark IV. But, of course, there’s more to the brand than its diving instruments. We can list chronographs, field watches or even a reasonably accessible tourbillon […]
SJX Watches
Best of 2024: Surprises and Unexpected Developments
There were relatively fewer surprises in 2024, perhaps because of the overall slowdown in demand for luxury watches. There were a few big surprises though, including the biggest one of all, the Patek Philippe Cubitus, leaving aside the leak thanks to a premature publication of Fortune magazine. Perhaps even more surprising and even bigger, both figuratively and literally, was the Bugatti Tourbillon, a hypercar inspired by a watch. Also notable was the fact that there was little unexpected from independent watchmakers, which perhaps underlines the still-robust demand for watches by the indies, which stick to safe bets that are easy to sell. Here’s a look at our team’s take on the unexpected launches of the year. Biver Automatique – SJX The first Biver watch was a carillon minute repeater with tourbillon that was finely finished, inside and out, but it was big, thick, and expensive. The follow-up, in contrast, was almost the opposite. The Automatique is compact and elegantly wearable, with a clean design that has just the right amount of vintage flavour. The only aspect where the Automatique stays true to its predecessor is in the finishing, which is outstanding, inside and out. The surprising bit about the Automatique is the movement. For one, it was developed by Dubois Depraz, better known as a maker of chronograph- and perpetual calendar modules mounted on ETA movements. Second, it arguably exceeds the movement of the Carillon Tourbillon in terms of design and decor...
Monochrome
Buying Guide – A Selection of the Very Best Artistic Dials We’ve Seen this Year
They say the face of a watch can be regarded as a canvas. A canvas to display time first and foremost, but in some watches, it is also a backdrop for a discerning and mesmerising complication like a tourbillon or a perpetual calendar indication. But what if you would take the dial as a canvas […]
Monochrome
Video – Visiting Lang & Heyne, a Proper High-End Watch Brand from Germany
Some of the most spectacularly finished watches come from Lang & Heyne, a small high-end watchmaker from the outskirts of Dresden. Especially the Anton Manufaktur Edition, with its tourbillon that seems to float in thin air, is a feast for the eye. We visited Lang & Heyne to give you a view inside the manufacture.
Monochrome
Introducing – The SpaceOne Tellurium is back with Black or Blue Titanium Cases
Young collaborative project/brand SpaceOne continues its exploration of watchmaking through a parallel galaxy… Last year, the bold and modern SpaceOne Jumping Hour emerged from the visionary mind of Théo Auffret, a Parisian independent watchmaker crafting intricate timepieces like the Tourbillon Grand Sport and Guillaume Laidet, the man spearheading the revival of Nivada, Excelsior Park and Vulcain. […]
SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Presents Japanese Deities in Miniature Enamel
The year’s Vacheron Constantin (VC) Les Cabinotiers collection of unique timepieces explore the mythology of time across different cultures. A trio of unique pieces with miniature enamel dials, Les Cabinotiers Le Temps Divin Japanese Culture are time-only watches with exquisite dial art, each depicting a Japanese deity. The functional simplicity of the three watches contrast with their Les Cabinotiers Le Temps Divin counterparts equipped with tourbillon regulators. While the tourbillon-equipped models take inspiration from Greek fables and wider East Asian culture, the present pieces are specifically focused on Japanese themes. Each of the three watches is equipped with a one-of-a-kind dial crafted with enamelling and engraving by VC’s in-house artisans. Initial thoughts VC’s endeavour bringing forth elements of time-related mythology from different cultural perspectives is laudable – and also logical given their application on a wristwatch. Moreover, the concept is executed well both in terms of style and technique in the 2024 Les Cabinotiers line-up. Les Cabinotiers (and also Metiers d’Art) demonstrate VC’s mastery of artisanal decoration. The dials in the Japanese Culture trio are achieved with several techniques in tandem, namely engraving and enamelling, but done in-house. The artful combination of technique results in a very-appealing series of unique creations. In fact, these watches are decorated with techniques similar to the incredible Les Cabinotier...
Monochrome
Introducing – The Millennium Watch Book Travel Watch Edition
Following the previous 4 editions – The Millennium Watch Book, Tourbillon Watches, Divers Watches and Chronographs – GMT Publishing now releases a fifth opus in their The Millenium book series. This 2024 edition is dedicated to travel watches (displaying additional time zones), a highly practical and purposeful function for globetrotters, frequent travellers and those doing […]
Hodinkee
Breaking News: Second F.P. Journe Wristwatch Ever Made Sells For Over $8.3 Million At Phillips
Second made and first sold, this Tourbillon Souverain is now the most expensive Journe and the most expensive wristwatch by an independent watchmaker.
Monochrome
First Look – The All-Blue Titanium Bulgari Octo Finissimo x Laurent Grasso Edition
Ten years ago, Bulgari’s launch of the Octo Finissimo Tourbillon spearheaded the Italian brand’s march across the watchmaking landscape, razing records in the battle for ultra-thin movements/watches. Currently the holder of nine world records, the Octo Finissimo’s incredible mechanical feats are matched by the formidable geometry of its case, securing it a seat in the […]
Monochrome
Introducing – The new Ulysse Nardin Freak X Enamel Seddiqi
In 2019, Ulysse Nardin introduced the Freak X, an entry-level to the innovative and convention-breaking Freak series, maintaining the brand’s “no-dial, no-hands” design, showcasing its signature flying carousel construction within the newly developed UN 230 movement. Though simpler than the original Freak and featuring a crown, the Freak X retained the DNA of its iconic […]
Fratello
Hot Take: The Ulysse Nardin Freak X Enamel Seddiqi
The Ulysse Nardin Freak, with its open-worked dial and flying carousel movement, is one of the watch world’s most recognizable timepieces. It has also become a popular platform for collaborations. The latest of these is the new Freak X Enamel Seddiqi featuring a titanium case and guilloché dial. Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons, the leading luxury […] Visit Hot Take: The Ulysse Nardin Freak X Enamel Seddiqi to read the full article.