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Omega’s Novel Take on the Seamaster Diver 300M for Paris 2024 Olympics SJX Watches
Omega s Novel Take Jul 28, 2023

Omega’s Novel Take on the Seamaster Diver 300M for Paris 2024 Olympics

As the Summer Olympics in Paris approach, Omega introduces a special edition of the Seamaster Diver 300M. Limited editions for the event are a given, but this latest Olympic edition is dressed in unusual livery for a Seamaster. The brand’s Moonshine Gold alloy is used for bezel, while the dial is bright white ceramic.  Initial thoughts Considering Omega’s long association with the Olympics stretches back 91 years, the number of limited editions for the games is numerous. Many were regrettably rather mundane in design, featuring the customary dial colour changes and Olympic markings. However, this particular edition stands out with its lighter tones, a departure from the typically dark hues of Omega’s dive watches, which was also the usual look of previous Olympic editions. And because this is an Omega, the colours are as much about aesthetics as materials. One aspect that particularly appeals in this release is the Moonshine Gold bezel. The golden insert complements the white ceramic dial and the stainless steel case and bracelet. This gives the watch a sense of visual luxury, making it different from the typical diver special edition without being gimmicky, which arguably gives it more longevity in terms of style. The price of this special edition stands at US$8,700, notably higher than the standard steel model, which is rationalised by the gold bezel no doubt. It will only be available, for the moment, at Omega boutiques in Paris. That said, the brand has not yet ...

Our Favorites From the Only Watch 2023 Collection Worn & Wound
TAG Heuer Monaco Split Seconds I’ve Jul 21, 2023

Our Favorites From the Only Watch 2023 Collection

We’ve talked about it on a podcast, and we’ve written about some high profile releases, but now the time has come for the Worn & Wound team to pick their favorites from this year’s Only Watch. We’ve had a few weeks to digest over 60 piece uniques, and, collectively, we’re ready to name the ones we’d gladly bid on, if only we ran hedge funds or happened to come into vast sums of heretofore unknown generational wealth in the next few months. This year’s crop of watches is truly special, with some brands getting creative and striking bold new paths, and others reverting to heritage in the best way possible.  Without further ado, our picks for our favorite watches in this year’s auction are below. Be sure to let us know what your favorite watches are from the sale in the comments below.  Blake Buettner – TAG Heuer Monaco Split Seconds I’ve always had something of a love/hate relationship with TAG Heuer’s Monaco, generally preferring the simple, old school approach to some of the zanier creations we’ve seen over the years. So it came as a surprise that, upon seeing the TAG Heuer Monaco Split-Seconds For Only Watch, I was kind of smitten. The floating dial structure works, and they went all-in on the case itself with a texturised titanium, so the whole thing works together rather than looking like a modern dial in a vintage case. Plus, just look at the shape of the running seconds sub-dial at 6 o’clock.  It’s not just the crazy exterior that works ...

The Norqain Wild ONE Gets the Skeleton Treatment Worn & Wound
Norqain Wild ONE Gets Jul 20, 2023

The Norqain Wild ONE Gets the Skeleton Treatment

This one seems like it was bound to happen. When Norqain unveiled the Wild ONE last year and hailed it as a next-gen, materials focused sports watch, it seemed clear that we’d get some ultra modern dial executions down the line to match the tech in the case. I was a pretty big fan of the first batch of Wild ONEs, but if there was an element that seemed a little “off” to me it was the dial. The repeating Norqain logo motif just didn’t seem to match the visual tone and vibe of the rest of the watch. I couldn’t quite put my finger on what would make it better, but with the new skeletonized version that was recently unveiled, I think they have the Wild ONE heading in the right direction.  Right off the bat, I realize this might be a somewhat controversial take. When Blake went hands-on with the Wild ONE earlier this year, one of his chief gripes was legibility. That concern is not likely to be abated with a dial that’s perhaps even more of an eye-chart, but in my opinion it “fits” the spirit of the watch a little better. While Norqain is ostensibly selling these as adventure watches for all manner of outdoor activities, to me they feel more in line with stylish, contemporary headturners like the Zenith Defy, or even watches in the Royal Oak Offshore line. Capable, yes, but designed to be gawked at more than anything.  The new Wild ONE Skeleton comes in two variants. One with a burgundy NORTEQ case with gold dial accents, and the other with a black NORTEQ case...

The Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Chronograph Calendar, Now in Red and Black SJX Watches
Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Chronograph Calendar Jul 18, 2023

The Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Chronograph Calendar, Now in Red and Black

Jaeger-LeCoultre (JLC) has just unveiled a fresh colour option for the Master Control Chronograph Calendar. Sporting a black dial adorned with red and gold accents, the latest iteration is the chromatic opposite of the original model that featured a conservative silver dial.  Initial thoughts The Master Control Chronograph Calendar was released two years ago with an unsurprising silver dial that fit well with the vintage-inspired design but lacked oomph. Fortunately, JLC has addressed this with a high contrast palette that is still suitably vintage inspired but much more striking. Vintage watches with black-and-red dials are uncommon, but they do exist. The combination is appealing, but not the most practical since red text on a black dial is hard to read due to the low contrast between the two colours. This is especially so for the calendar indications, while the pulsations scale on the periphery is probably unreadable in low light. But still, the appeal of the dial certainly makes it compelling despite the poor legality.  Colours aside, the watch is identical to the original version, so it shares the same strengths, like the solid, old-school design, and weaknesses, like the mix of French and English on the dial. This costs the same as the earlier version in rose gold, which is US$32,500. The price parity is certainly fair and logical. However, the price is a bit higher than it should be. While not exorbitant, the price does not represent the sort of strong value propo...

The Hublot Big Bang Unico Azur is nautical but nice Time+Tide
TAG Heuer ContinuedThe post Jul 11, 2023

The Hublot Big Bang Unico Azur is nautical but nice

Hublot extend their “Hublot Loves Summer” campaign to the Hublot Big Bang Unico Azur The blue and white ceramic case evokes a classic sailor’s outfit Limited to 50 pieces, it’s only available at the Monaco and St Tropez boutiques The French Riviera tends to get a lot of love from watchmakers. From the TAG Heuer … ContinuedThe post The Hublot Big Bang Unico Azur is nautical but nice appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Greubel Forsey Plans Major Manufacture Expansion SJX Watches
Greubel Forsey Plans Major Manufacture Expansion Jul 10, 2023

Greubel Forsey Plans Major Manufacture Expansion

Greubel Forsey has revealed plans for a significant expansion of its manufacture in La Chaux-de-Fonds. Set to nearly triple the current size of the distinctive, sloping building, the CHF20 million project signals a broader strategic move for the brand as it seeks a larger share of the high-end sports watch sector. The expansion, scheduled to commence next year, will not only increase Greubel Forsey’s research and development capacity and provide additional amenities for guests and staff, but it will also enable the brand to increase production. This move aligns with the brand’s recent shift from producing mainly complex tourbillon watches to introducing simpler, sportier watches that target the segment dominated by Richard Mille. In addition to the expansion, the brand is poised to launch its eighth “Fundamental Invention” this year.  Nearly tripling in size The manufacture expansion is a key pillar of chief executive Antonio Calce’s ten-year vision for growing the brand and professionalising its operations. According to Mr Calce, the expansion will enable Greubel Forsey to pursue “ever greater creativity and excellence in hand finishing.” Antonio Calce The planned expansion of the manufacture is ambitious; the floorplan is set to nearly triple in size, from 2,000 m2 to 5,460 m2. Fortunately, the expansion will not alter the current building’s recognisable architecture of a glass box rising out of the grass. Instead, the expansion will build on and around...

Australian independent watchmaker Reuben Schoots’ watch is on Loupe This - but I am the highest bidder so BACK OFF! Time+Tide
Jul 8, 2023

Australian independent watchmaker Reuben Schoots’ watch is on Loupe This - but I am the highest bidder so BACK OFF!

Watchmaking is a source of pride for various regions. Of course the most famous are the Swiss, but Japan, Britain, Germany also proudly boast high quality watchmaking – where each region has their own personal stamp on the art form. The USA, once home to a burgeoning watch industry, finds itself working back towards prestige, … ContinuedThe post Australian independent watchmaker Reuben Schoots’ watch is on Loupe This – but I am the highest bidder so BACK OFF! appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Watch Scrolling: Five Instagram Accounts to Follow for Crispy Watch Photography, Wide Ranging Curation and Niche Deep Dives Worn & Wound
Jul 7, 2023

Watch Scrolling: Five Instagram Accounts to Follow for Crispy Watch Photography, Wide Ranging Curation and Niche Deep Dives

The Instagram watch community is an ever growing one. For watch enthusiasts, it has turned from a place where we shared our passion for the hobby by posting the standard wrist shot, to a platform filled with an endless amount of accounts dedicated to high level watch photography, intersections between different interests adjacent to watches and niche accounts that seemingly dive deep into any subject related to horology. It has also become a place where connections are made and friendships are fostered which often lead to a conversation that extends beyond the DMs into real life. In the spirit of beautiful photography, an insatiable appetite to learn new things and meeting new people, Thomas Calara, has chosen five Instagram accounts that embodies that very essence. Great photography as well as a diverse curation are the standard. However, in addition to that, there’s also an array of great storytelling, portraits and historical nuggets sprinkled in. Check out the entire round-up below and the rest of our Watch Scrolling multi-part series here. Header image via: @samsveblenianobsession @samsveblenianobsession Sam’s taste in watches, as well as his photography skills are impeccable and you’d be hard pressed to find someone who knows more about the independent watch space than him. A quick scroll through his feed displays several heavy hitters and even though his collection is independent-focused, his choices for what remains in the watch box still somehow strays away ...

In Focus: Voutilainen Decimal Repeater GMT “L’Esprit du Bois” SJX Watches
Voutilainen Jun 30, 2023

In Focus: Voutilainen Decimal Repeater GMT “L’Esprit du Bois”

Now best known for the Vingt-8 chronometer, particularly when combined with its exemplary and versatile guilloche work, Voutilainen also produces high complicated watches. Though the brand now largely focuses on the time-only Vingt-8, it once completed striking watches on a fairly regular basis. One of the best examples of such a chiming masterpiece is the Decimal Repeater GMT “L’Esprit du Bois” that was delivered a decade ago, when Voutilainen was a far smaller operation centred on its founder, Kari Voutilainen. This unique repeater is now available at Phillips Perpetual in London. Quintessential Voutilainen Before he found the success that led to the current three-year waitlist for the Vingt-8, Mr Voutilainen made perhaps two dozen repeaters (compared to hundreds of time-only watches), all equipped with refinished vintage ebauches. Most were decimal repeaters that struck the time in ten-minute blocks, as opposed to the quarter strikes of convention repeaters, making time telling more intuitive. “L’Esprit du Bois” is one of the most elaborate of Mr Voutilainen’s chiming watches. Delivered in 2013, the watch combines a decimal repeater and second time zone display, all presented in the quintessential Voutilainen manner with a case featuring teardrop lugs and a dial finished with a variety of guilloche patterns. But it is distinguished by something special: the hinged case back is entirely relief engraved and enamelled with a motif drawn from Greek mythology. ...

The Oceanking Returns: Monta Introduces Version Three of their Signature Dive Watch Worn & Wound
Monta Jun 30, 2023

The Oceanking Returns: Monta Introduces Version Three of their Signature Dive Watch

Following the continued success of the second generation Oceanking, St. Louis-based brand Monta just released their third iteration of the dive-inspired watch. Making intuitive tweaks to the design, the third generation of the Oceanking shows the capabilities of Monta and that there’s always room for improvement. The first thing to notice about the new-and-improved Oceanking is the bezel. With a focus on tactility and functionality, the new bezel features a ceramic insert that’s easier to read due to upgraded indices, typeface, and a lume pip at the 12 o’clock mark. Second to that is the 120-click action of the bezel assembly, which is suspended on three ball-pushers. The configuration of this assembly is totally unique to Monta and is currently patent-pending, making it an innovative feather in the microbrand’s cap. Much of the design principles of previous Oceankings have stuck around, with small tweaks to make it all the more refined for new customers and longtime fans of the brand. The dial has refreshed lume, a larger date aperture, and new text orientation. It’s small adjustments like these that make me confident that Monta is paying attention to every single detail and working closely with their Swiss manufacturing partners to bring us something special. Beyond the visual tweaks, one can expect even more adjustments made at the technical level as well. While the case clocks in at 40.7mm (same as Gen. 2), it is 0.2mm thinner than the previous generation. Th...

Audemars Piguet Introduces the Royal Oak Flying Tourbillon Openworked “Only Watch” SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Introduces Jun 29, 2023

Audemars Piguet Introduces the Royal Oak Flying Tourbillon Openworked “Only Watch”

Audemars Piguet (AP) is taking part in Only Watch for the fourth time with the Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Openworked 41 mm “Only Watch”. In contrast to the low-key Royal Oak “Jumbo” made for the 2021 instalment of the charity auction, this year’s one-off creation is exceptionally striking in blue and white. The latest Royal Oak “Only Watch” is based on the regular-production Royal Oak skeleton tourbillon but made unique with a white ceramic case and bracelet along with a movement featuring blued titanium bridges and plates. The case and bracelet material is notably uncommon for AP. While the brand has a fair number of Royal Oak models in black ceramic, there are fewer in white ceramic. In fact, there is only one regular production model in white ceramic, the perpetual calendar. In the past, there were also a handful of Royal Oak Offshore models in white ceramic, including a chronograph and Diver. According to AP, one of the notable features of the bracelet is not only the material, but also that fact that is secured with “invisible pins”. This presumably means the pins holding the bracelet together are concealed with ceramic caps. The cal. 2972 inside is open worked in an angular, stylised manner that is very much AP’s house style. The bridges and base plate are blued titanium, while the bevels of the movement retain the natural grey colour of titanium for contrast, giving each of the bridges a pronounced outline. The rotor is 22k gold but ...

The New Vero x ADPT Workhorse Limited Edition Is A Strap Monster - Windup Watch Shop Worn & Wound
Jun 25, 2023

The New Vero x ADPT Workhorse Limited Edition Is A Strap Monster - Windup Watch Shop

Just this week, we released our latest collaboration with Vero, the ADPT Workhorse Limited Edition. Featuring a 44.5mm cylindrical mid-case coated in ceramic coating (Cerakote), we were able to not just use a gorgeous aqua tone that almost perfectly matches the dial, we were able to give a spritz of white. Applied in such a way to create random flecking, no two versions of the VERO x ADPT Workhorse are exactly the same. Like all Workhorses, this piece was made for the outdoors and although it comes on a summer ready white self-closing fabric strap, we put this watch to the strap test by modeling some ADPT nylons on it. We’re happy to report, it is the strap monster we hoped for! Just this week, we released our latest collaboration with Vero, the ADPT Workhorse Limited Edition. Featuring a 44.5mm cylindrical mid-case coated in ceramic coating (Cerakote), we were able to not just use a gorgeous aqua tone that almost perfectly matches the dial, we were able to give a spritz of white. Applied in such a way to create random flecking, no two versions of the VERO x ADPT Workhorse are exactly the same. Like all Workhorses, this piece was made for the outdoors and although it comes on a summer ready white self-closing fabric strap, we put this watch to the strap test by modeling some ADPT nylons on it. We’re happy to report, it is the strap monster we hoped for! The post The New Vero x ADPT Workhorse Limited Edition Is A Strap Monster – Windup Watch Shop appeared first ...

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Worn & Wound
Schwarz Etienne Jun 25, 2023

A Week in Watches Ep.55: Variety is the Spice of Life

On this week’s episode of A Week in Watches, Zach Weiss covers a diverse group of new releases. We start at the high end with some new chronographs by Singer Reimagined and then head over to a limited quartet by Elka with some help from Ace Jewelers. Next up was a truly wild creation by Schwarz Etienne that was designed by vaunted designer, Eric Giroud. Last, we celebrate Alpina’s 140th anniversary with a look at their incredibly limited and incredibly cool new square watches powered by a vintage caliber. This week’s episode was brought to you by the Windup Watch Shop. For an excellent and ever-growing catalog of watches, straps, clocks, and more, head to windupwatchshop.com. The post A Week in Watches Ep.55: Variety is the Spice of Life appeared first on Worn & Wound.

IWC Introduces a New “Tahoe” Version of their Big Pilot Perpetual Calendar Worn & Wound
Hamilton recently so Jun 19, 2023

IWC Introduces a New “Tahoe” Version of their Big Pilot Perpetual Calendar

IWC’s Top Gun “Lake Tahoe” edition of their ceramic cased chronograph has been an object of fascination for many since its release last year. While it lacks a certain practicality (it’s 44.5mm wide) and versatility (it’s, well, bright white) it’s undeniably striking, and would seem to be the perfect watch for a handful of very specific purposes, one of which is surely sipping on brightly colored cocktail, oceanside, in Miami. There’s nothing else quite like it on the market (besides the other colored, ceramic IWC chronographs), and it presents as an interesting contrast in design sensibilities to the “normal” IWC chronographs, the ones in steel, with an altogether more sober vibe. They’re the same, but also wildly different, and illustrate how IWC has one foot in contemporary sleekness and another in paying homage to their own history, visible on the same chronograph platform.  Last week, the Tahoe got a sequel of sorts with a new Big Pilot perpetual calendar using the same materials and design notes as the chronograph. The Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar Top Gun Lake Tahoe had been seen on the wrist of IWC ambassador Lewis Hamilton recently, so the official news of its release to the public isn’t a huge shock, but as an admirer of the Tahoe chronograph it’s fun to see its expansion to another product line, and makes us wonder if we could see a Tahoe edition of the simplest IWC pilot watches. A Mark XX Tahoe? Take my money.  That’s enough...

IWC Introduces the Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar “Top Gun Lake Tahoe” SJX Watches
IWC Introduces Jun 16, 2023

IWC Introduces the Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar “Top Gun Lake Tahoe”

Having made a splash with the release of the Ingenieur back in March, IWC now returns with an addition to its military-inspired aviator’s watch collection with the Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar “Top Gun Lake Tahoe”. While IWC is no stranger to ceramic as a case material, this is the first time the signature IWC perpetual calendar has been combined with white ceramic, certainly one of the brand’s most popular case materials. Initial thoughts Since its 2022 debut, the Colours of Top Gun collection – comprised of pilot’s watches with cases in coloured ceramic other than black – has consistently been a bestseller. The white ceramic chronograph in particular was especially sought after, enough that it sold for above the retail price on the secondary market for a brief period. Therefore, it is no surprise that IWC has now introduced a white ceramic perpetual calendar, adding the popular case material to its trademark complication. Fans of the perpetual calendar will not be disappointed since the dial design sticks to a tried-and-tested formula. The overall aesthetics, however, are striking. The juxtaposition of the matte black dial and white ceramic transforms the often elegant complication into something sportier and cooler. On the other hand, owners of the Top Gun chronograph in white ceramic might be disappointed that the material is no longer unique to that model, but it was practically a given IWC would launch more white ceramic models given the comme...

Tissot Puts a Powermatic 80 Movement in their Smallest PRX Worn & Wound
Tissot Puts Jun 15, 2023

Tissot Puts a Powermatic 80 Movement in their Smallest PRX

It’s not exactly breaking news, but it seems that integrated bracelet sports watches hold just as dominant a place in the market as they did a year ago, and a year before that. They are coming at us from every angle: the entry level, the high end, and somewhere in between, and with each new release, it feels more and more like this isn’t a “trend,” as so many (including myself) have described it in the past. It’s becoming increasingly clear that what we’re looking at is a product category as broad as “dive watches” or “dress watches.” That means integrated bracelet sports watches are just going to keep coming, not just at every price point, but in every size.  And that brings us to the newest release from Tissot, a PRX in a 35mm case and equipped with an automatic movement. The PRX has been available in 35mm for about a year, but only with a quartz movement. An integrated bracelet sports watch in a smaller than normal case size makes a ton of sense, and by all accounts the 35mm PRX was a big hit. The very nature of an integrated bracelet sports watch means that, most of the time, it’s going to wear a bit larger than a watch with a strap or traditional bracelet. The cases for these watches, often somewhat architectural and heavily faceted, have a ton of wrist presence. And the silkiness and drape of the bracelets (when they’re done right) makes comfort a truly defining feature in this category – a watch that’s too big can spoil the whole experie...

Norqain Adds a Limited Edition Freedom 60 Chrono in Ice Blue to their Lineup Worn & Wound
Norqain Adds Jun 8, 2023

Norqain Adds a Limited Edition Freedom 60 Chrono in Ice Blue to their Lineup

The latest release from Norqain capitalizes on a recent color trend while steering the brand back from the tech forward, ultra sporty Wild One that has been the brand’s primary focus since late last year. The Freedom 60 Chrono Ice Blue Limited Edition, in a 40mm case size, sits on the opposite end of the spectrum of Norqain’s increasingly varied catalog, which now includes watches made with unusual proprietary materials and an increasing stock of limited editions. The Freedom 60 Chrono takes a more vintage inspired approach, but this version has been given a super sleek colorway that is quite contemporary.  The Freedom 60 Chrono seen here has an ice blue dial with a subtle sunray effect, and is dotted with three black subdials providing readouts for elapsed minutes, hours, and running seconds. The dial has a two layer construction with the subdials sitting below the main dial for added depth, and a matching black outer ring with a white tachymeter scale for contrast. The hour markers are diamond cut and rhodium plated, and have small old radium colored lume tips at their inside edge. The date window at 4:30 is color matched to the ice blue dial, and in these photographs appears to be very well executed, proving that it is, in fact, possible to deliver a three register layout and 4:30 date window without completely fumbling the bag.  The secret weapon here is really the case. The 40mm incarnation of the Freedom 60 case is dramatically more wearable and in proportion t...

The Horage Lensman 2 doubles down on the vintage camera inspiration Time+Tide
Jun 7, 2023

The Horage Lensman 2 doubles down on the vintage camera inspiration

Despite the obvious links to a passion for photography, it seems as though the chief mission for Horage is to redefine the meaning of ‘tool watch’. With cameras taking the bulk of the design inspiration, the photography links are merely an outlet for that proof of concept. Creating a beautiful, high-end watch can still be … ContinuedThe post The Horage Lensman 2 doubles down on the vintage camera inspiration appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hands On With The Gruppo Gamma Venturo Field Watch II - A Good Looking Value Proposition WatchAdvice
Jun 5, 2023

Hands On With The Gruppo Gamma Venturo Field Watch II - A Good Looking Value Proposition

If a vintage styled field watch is your thing, then maybe the Gruppo Gamma Venturo Field Watch II maybe just the thing for you. Oh, and we’re giving it away! What We Love Vintage stylingEasy to wearChangeable straps What We Don’t Not a high grade movementLack of design elements on strapNot suitable for smaller wrists Overall Rating: 8.375/10 Value for money: 8/10Wearability: 9/10Design: 8.5/10Build quality: 8/10 This is a review with a difference. Whilst we get a lot of watches to review each month, this time we’ve decided to review one we’re giving away to our amazing audience. How do you win? simply take our short 4 minute survey to help us design and write content to help you, our readers. which you can take it here. Don’t forget to come back and read the review when you’re done! The Gruppo Gamma Ventura Field Watch II Gruppo Gamma is probably a brand you’ve not heard of, and not surprisingly as they’re a micro brand founded in 2013, named after the Italian frogmen unit of the same code name, that was first put to action in 1940 and was the first modern naval diver unit. The top secret elite force was called “Gruppo Gamma” which was said to have originated from the Pirelli rubber skinsuit, called “muta gamma”, that was used by the divers. And they make some very reasonably priced tool watches with inspiration from vintage style field and dive watches. The Design If you think this looks familiar in style, then you’re not wrong. The Venturo is h...

The J.N. Shapiro Resurgence brings American craftsmanship roaring back Time+Tide
May 22, 2023

The J.N. Shapiro Resurgence brings American craftsmanship roaring back

J.N. Shapiro introduces the first handmade mechanical watch “Made in America” since 1969 The Resurgence is a love letter to handmade watchmaking, offering a layered guilloché dial, engine-turned mid-case, and damaskeening on the bridges Options are plentiful, making each Resurgence unique to its owner Whenever we talk about the ultra-high end of horology, the discussion … ContinuedThe post The J.N. Shapiro Resurgence brings American craftsmanship roaring back appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

J.N. Shapiro Introduces the Resurgence SJX Watches
May 22, 2023

J.N. Shapiro Introduces the Resurgence

Having made a name for himself as a guillocheur, Joshua Shapiro has taken things a step further with the launch of the Resurgence, the most thoroughly American-made wristwatch since 1969. The Resurgence offers several features that are unique within the increasingly crowded field of high-end independent watchmaking. It is a customisable product that offers an almost unlimited number of dial, case, and movement combinations; it’s possible that no two watches will be alike. Almost every aspect of the watch, from the elaborate guilloche dial, engine-turned case, and customisable in-house movement, is surprisingly interesting and original. Initial Thoughts I first met Joshua in 2019 after the launch of the Infinity Series, and even then he was keen to discuss his vision for creating an in-house American-made movement that would live up to the quality of his guilloche work. But I must admit the Resurgence has exceeded my expectations, especially in terms of finishing. As a guilloche specialist, Joshua does not disappoint with the multi-part guilloche dial. Its construction reminds me of the dial found in the Roger W. Smith GREAT Britain, a one-off watch made in 2015 for the British government’s tourism campaign of the same name. But while the construction is similar, the Resurgence dial possesses its own aesthetic that steps out from the shadow of Swiss or British-style guilloche. At US$85,000 in gold and US$70,000 in steel, the Resurgence is priced at the upper end of the ...

Watch Review: Zenith DEFY Extreme E 2023 Limited Edition Deployant
Zenith DEFY Extreme E 2023 May 20, 2023

Watch Review: Zenith DEFY Extreme E 2023 Limited Edition

Discover the Zenith DEFY Extreme E 2023 Limited Edition watch, a remarkable timepiece crafted in carbon fiber and featuring sustainability-inspired design elements. With its high-frequency chronograph movement and recycled parts, this exclusive watch embodies innovation and environmental consciousness. Limited to 100 pieces, it is available at Zenith boutiques worldwide.

A Brief Encounter with the Naoya Hida Watches, Including the New Type 4 Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko make stunning steel watches May 12, 2023

A Brief Encounter with the Naoya Hida Watches, Including the New Type 4

It’s hard to imagine how fine a more or less simple steel watch can be. You’ve likely encountered high-end steel watches from the typical luxury houses that come to mind. For example, Omega, Rolex, or Grand Seiko make stunning steel watches with excellent finishing. It’s fair to ask yourself, how much better or different can finishing get? And then, if you’re lucky enough to have the opportunity, you get to see Naoya Hida’s watches, and you realize that a seemingly simple steel watch still has plenty of room for elevation. The difference isn’t in broad strokes, it’s in the minutia. “Fit and finish” turned up that much more. Details are finished by hand for that wabi-sabi effect of subtle variations and vibrations that add life. I once heard a person refer to something as having “gravity” to define the “X” factor that sets something of quality apart. As a physical, unavoidable force of attraction, this makes sense. While it might take a loupe to truly appreciate the subtleties of the finish on a Naoya Hida watch, it pulls you in with a force beyond your control. I’ve had the experience of seeing the Naoya Hida watches twice now, about a year apart from each other, both times at Mark Cho’s Armoury location in NYC’s Tribeca. The first time was certainly exciting, but the second, which was just a few weeks ago, was revelatory. Perhaps that is because Mr. Hida, and his engraver Keisuke Kano, came to the US to present the watches in person. The ad...

Awake Concepts Returns with a New Pair of Limited Editions Sporting Meteorite Dials Worn & Wound
May 12, 2023

Awake Concepts Returns with a New Pair of Limited Editions Sporting Meteorite Dials

We first wrote about Awake last year, when they launched the very high concept Mission to Earth, a blockchain enabled, NASA co-branded watch that really sought to tell a very specific story about space exploration. I was a fan of that watch, mostly for the way it unapologetically leaned in to those larger themes, becoming what I suspect is a watch that was more sought after by NASA collector types than traditional watch enthusiasts. Their latest watch, dubbed “Time Travelers,” but also part of the Mission to Earth series has a similar point of view but a very different aesthetic, and in some ways feels a bit more coherent in how it gets its very specific message across.  Time Travelers is all about exploring the origins of our solar system through meteorites, the small asteroid fragments that are older than our planet and continue to teach us quite a bit about the nature of how planets and life were formed. Unsurprisingly, the centerpiece of this watch is its meteorite dial, crafted from a sliver of the Muonionalusta meteorite that struck the surface of our planet over one million years ago. The unique striations seen on a meteorite dial can’t be reproduced naturally on earth, and in addition to adding an element of poetry to an object whose primary concern is the passage of time, they also just look incredibly cool, and have a visual impact that is a lot fun. The case of the Time Travelers watch is crafted from recycled titanium, and will be available in two colors...

The Frederique Constant Classic Tourbillon Manufacture Steel takes the value proposition a step further Time+Tide
Frederique Constant Classic Tourbillon Manufacture Steel May 6, 2023

The Frederique Constant Classic Tourbillon Manufacture Steel takes the value proposition a step further

Frederique Constant follows up their precious metal Classic Tourbillon Manufacture W&W; debut with two steel models Each model is limited to 350 pieces in honor of the 35th anniversary of the brand High value proposition – in-house tourbillon watch priced at US$15,695 During Watches & Wonders, Frederique Constant’s hero novelty was a new more compact take … ContinuedThe post The Frederique Constant Classic Tourbillon Manufacture Steel takes the value proposition a step further appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Six of the best Apple Watch faces to make your wrist computer a more horological experience Time+Tide
Apr 29, 2023

Six of the best Apple Watch faces to make your wrist computer a more horological experience

Look, Tim Cook (or Tim Apple, for the less informed) is CEO of a 2.6 trillion dollar tech juggernaut, so he can wear any watch he wants. Being an old-school company man, he’s a great cheerleader for the brand, and of course, rocks the useful and highly capable Apple Watch. A photo recently appeared on … ContinuedThe post Six of the best Apple Watch faces to make your wrist computer a more horological experience appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.