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Business News: Minerva Repositions In New Role As “Distinct Entity” Within Montblanc Brand
New watches will display the standalone Minerva name on the dial.
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Hodinkee
New watches will display the standalone Minerva name on the dial.
Hodinkee
What We Know Among the more attractive releases from Watches and Wonders this year is the new Chopard L.U.C. Strike One Titanium, now with a beautiful new dial treatment. In ethical 18k rose gold with salmon-colored galvanic treatment, with a hand-guilloché central medallion with a honeycomb motif, the Strike One is a watch that may fly under the radar for some. Not a minute repeater, not a grande et petite sonnerie, but rather a beautiful watch that chimes once at the top of the hour (a sonnerie au passage), it's still got a very romantic quality about it. Despite being a chiming watch, Chopard has (as they usually do) minimized the size as much as possible with a 40mm by 9.86mm case in Grade 5 titanium. That light metal should help emphasize the chime's sound, with the hammer on the dial side visible through an aperture for the full experience. Even better, the gong is made of sapphire and is connected in a monobloc construction (one piece) to the dial crystal to emphasize sound transmission. The dial itself is capped by a snail-shaped chapter ring and has rhodium-plated hour markers and hands, plus anthracite-colored printed transfers. This is all powered by the L.U.C. 96.32-L. With a two-barrel construction and micro-rotor, you get 65 hours of power reserve, automatic winding, and a 4Hz beat rate, all chronometer-certified by COSC, with Poinçon de Genève-certified quality. Chopard really shows bigger brands how to do it when it comes to finishing, so this is the kin...
Deployant
DEPLOYANT - The watch magazine for collectors, by collectors These three watches were selected because each represents a different approach to high‑end mechanical construction. Grand Seiko’s SBGZ011 demonstrates the Micro Artist Studio’s work with Spring Drive and overtly hand‑finished case and dial. Patek Philippe’s 7047G is an ultra‑complicated minute repeater masquerading within the dimensions and subtlety of a simple time‑only watch. A. Lange & [...] The post WWG26 Armchair Picks: Chester’s Top 3 from the new releases appeared first on DEPLOYANT.
Monochrome
Introduced in 2019, Chopard’s Alpine Eagle has quickly become the maison’s signature luxury sports watch collection, defined by its integrated bracelet, fluted bezel secured by eight indexed screws and dial texture inspired by the iris of an eagle. Winging its way back into the limelight, the time-and-date Alpine Eagle returns in 36 and 41mm Lucent […]
Monochrome
H. Moser & Cie. fearlessly takes two of its most prestigious complications, strips away all superfluous elements, and reveals them up front in the Endeavour Minute Repeater Cylindrical Tourbillon Skeleton. Exposing its dial-side minute repeater and cylindrical hairspring flying tourbillon in a fully skeletonised form, Moser ascends to new heights on the complications ladder. Launched […]
Deployant
DEPLOYANT - The watch magazine for collectors, by collectors We are next at Hermès, and here are our highlights from their novelties for WWG26, with our hands-on remarks. Each year, Hermès introduces what they call mysterious mechanisms. This year, they focus on the theme of puppetry the H08 Squelette. The first time a skeleton dial and movement is fitted on the now iconic H08 [...] The post Live from WWG26: new releases from Hermes appeared first on DEPLOYANT.
Deployant
DEPLOYANT - The watch magazine for collectors, by collectors For this year, IWC released several novelties, including the Big Pilot Petit Prince and the big novelty is the space Pilot’s Venturer Vertical Drive. A very clear dial layout which is of the Pilot’s Vertical Drive is built from the ground up. The closed case back is a design choice to make the watch as [...] The post Live from WWG26: highlight of the new releases from IWC appeared first on DEPLOYANT.
Deployant
DEPLOYANT - The watch magazine for collectors, by collectors Grand Seiko next and we got our hands-on session for WWG26. Here are the highlights from our session. First up, Heritage Collection “Sakura-wakaba” SBGH376. The movement is the Hi-Beat C. 9885 36000bph in a 38mm yellow gold case and a magnificent dial which is pressed with a wonderful texture. Developed at the Studio Shizukuishi, the [...] The post Live from WWG26: new release highlights from Grand Seiko appeared first on DEPLOYANT.
Fratello
It’s been a big week here in Geneva, but we’re not done yet! Venezianico, the Venice-based brand, has brought a new take on its popular integrated-bracelet model, the Arsenale. Until now, there have been several options for case materials, dial composition, and a choice of two or three hands. Now, for the first time, we […] Visit Introducing: The Venezianico Arsenale Calendario to read the full article.
Monochrome
The Le Petit Prince editions have long been easy to spot within IWC’s Pilot’s Watch lineup; just look for the deep blue dial inspired by Antoine de Saint-Exupéry’s famous novella. With the new Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 Le Petit Prince unveiled at Watches and Wonders Geneva 2026, the brand gives this familiar formula a new […]
Monochrome
When it was unveiled in 2014, Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Calibre 362 stunned the horological world as the slimmest automatic minute repeater with a tourbillon regulator. For 2026, Jaeger revisits its high-complication masterpiece with the new Master Hybris Mechanica Ultra Thin Minute Repeater, a ten-piece limited edition with an openworked dial reaffirming the Maison’s dominance in chiming mechanisms, […]
Monochrome
Jaeger-LeCoultre revisits one of its most important contemporary tourbillon movements with the new Master Grande Tradition Tourbillon Jumping Date. While the underlying Calibre 978 is familiar to collectors, the latest iteration restructures the movement’s architecture. Featuring a partially openworked dial, the tourbillon, signature jumping date mechanism, and 24-hour display come to the fore. Paying homage […]
SJX Watches
Tudor’s bestseller just got a new update. The new Black Bay 58 builds upon last year’s burgundy version, coming in the beloved black dial with gilt accents configuration. Not only did the iconic vintage-inspired diver get slimmer and better proportioned, but it also come with a choice of three different straps. Initial thoughts Ever since Tudor was rejuvenated the brand became almost synonymous with the well-built and equally well-styled Black Bay collection. The model line grew to include various complications, from GMT functions to chronographs all while retaining the core vintage-coded aesthetic. This streamlined “BB58” format was first introduced in 2024 with the Black Bay 58 GMT. The watch featured sleeker case proportions, a METAS-certified movement and a slimmer, more practical crown. A burgundy version of the time-only Black Bay then followed and now Tudor adapts arguably their most iconic configuration to this updated format. Due to its proportions, overall construction and colour scheme the watch strongly resembles the vintage Rolex Ref. 6538. The watch was famously worn by Sean Connery’s James Bond in the first ever Bond movie, Dr. No. Tudor’s new case proportions work so well with the vintage-inspired black and gilt dial that the new reference is guaranteed to be a big hit with Bond fans. Notably, the new Black Bay 58 comes with a choice of two steel bracelets and a rubber strap. Apart from the Oyster-inspired faux-rivet three-link bracelet ...
Hodinkee
All the good that is gold with a little less flash and a stone dial that soothes the senses.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Alpina updates the Startimer Pilot Automatic with a slimmer 40mm case, bolder applied numerals, and four new dial options.
Deployant
DEPLOYANT - The watch magazine for collectors, by collectors We are now in Zenith, and had our hands-on with the Zenith new releases in WWG26. First an update to the G.F.J which was released last year. This year, it is released in yellow gold with a bloodstone dial and the sub-dial is now in a green backed mother of pearl. But my pick is [...] The post Live from WWG26: new release highlights from Zenith appeared first on DEPLOYANT.
Deployant
DEPLOYANT - The watch magazine for collectors, by collectors We got our hands on with our favourites from Piaget this WWG26, and here are the highlights. First up the Piaget Polo Signature, now the release with a stone solalite dial. The dial is made in gold with the gadroons which is inspired by the original Piaget Polo. Then the sodalite, a hard stone is [...] The post Live from WWG26: new releases of Piaget appeared first on DEPLOYANT.
Monochrome
When IWC revived the Ingenieur in 2023, it did so by returning to Gérald Genta’s integrated-bracelet design, with functional screws, a structured dial and an emphasis on all things technical. Last year’s full-black ceramic Ingenieur Automatic 42 was quite exemplary. For 2026, IWC takes a more nuanced step with the Ingenieur Automatic 42 in dark […]
Monochrome
Vacheron Constantin’s Métiers d’Art Tribute to Great Civilisations series turns the Louvre’s ancient masterpieces into wearable miniature artworks, blending high watchmaking with some of the Maison’s most demanding decorative crafts. Limited to 15 pieces each, the four watches use the calibre 2460 G4/2, a hand-finished automatic movement with peripheral displays that frees the dial for […]
Fratello
You can never have enough lume, right? Well, I certainly enjoy my Chronoswiss Timemaster with its full-lume dial. But what about an even fuller-lume watch? Meet the completely lumed IWC Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar Ceralume (IW505801). You might have seen a prototype, but now it’s time for a run of 250 watches in IWC’s […] Visit Introducing A Glow-In-The-Dark Watch: The IWC Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar Ceralume to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
If Grand Seiko was once Seiko’s best-kept secret, as it was for decades, Credor was even more enigmatic. Once positioned above Grand Seiko and crafted exclusively from precious metals, it remains rare outside of Japan to this day. That changes now when Credor comes out from under its Seiko shadow to exhibit at Watches & Wonders for the first time with three novelties: two takes on the Goldfeather and a brighter, breezier dial on the Locomotive, one of Credor’s most significant watches - though in the 1970s you would have likely never heard of it. Credor Goldfeather Urushi Lacquer Dial Limited Edition GBBY967 The Seiko Goldfeather was hailed as a technological achievement when it was released in 1960 (still holding Seiko’s thinnest three-hand movement). Credor resurrected the Goldfeather name in 2023 with the same pursuit of mechanical thinness, plus beautifully detailed lacquer and enamel dials. On the new GBBY967, the dial’s urushi finish is lacquered and polished dozens of times, resulting in a stunningly smooth dark blue gradient that turns into black around the edges, as if peering into the ocean depths. The dial’s baton indices and the Credor and Goldfeather logos are hand-applied with platinum powder in the taka maki-e style: a lacquer art that produces a three-dimensional effect. The ultra-thin (just 1.98mm!) Caliber 6890 hand-wind movement underpins this special Goldfeather, which is limited to just 25 pieces and at $47,000 each. Credor Goldfe...
Monochrome
Chopard celebrates 30 years since the founding of its Manufacture in Fleurier, and the L.U.C collection, named after Louis-Ulysse Chopard, continues to highlight the brand’s most technical and refined timepieces. Among the anniversary releases, the new L.U.C XPS Prussian Blue presents an evolution of the sector-dial model in green introduced in 2024. This new edition […]
Hodinkee
The new Monaco looks to the 1969 original for inspiration, improving ergonomics for a new titanium case and updating dial designs and colors.
Monochrome
When Zenith brought back the legendary Calibre 135 last year in the G.F.J. collection, it was a tribute to its 160-year history. Also, it signalled the return of one of the most celebrated chronometer movements. Now, the brand expands the collection with two new G.F.J interpretations: a tantalum edition with an onyx dial and diamonds, […]
SJX Watches
To mark 30 years of its Fleurier manufacture, Chopard has introduced a new variant of the watch that started it all. The new Lucent steel L.U.C 1860 adds a blue dial to the brand’s flagship time-only dress watch. The L.U.C 1860 is short on novelty, being merely a new colour for a model that debuted in 2023, but the incremental improvements result in a sleek and sophisticated steel dress watch. Initial thoughts The L.U.C 1860 is very traditional dress watch in the sense that nothing feels exaggerated. At the same time, it doesn’t feel boring thanks to its guilloché dial and the obvious quality of the movement within. While there are some who believe that a proper dress watch must come in precious metal, the popularity of the steel-and-salmon L.U.C 1860 released in 2023 proves there’s an alternate perspective. The brand’s proprietary ‘Lucent’ steel makes the watch more accessible, especially in the age of near-record gold prices. Despite the use of a comparatively humble material, the case finishing remains high-end - though the design is generation behind the new case profile introduced for the Grand Strike. Since the original L.U.C 1860 debuted in 1997, it has always been a small watch. For a time, that left it out of step with consumer preferences, especially in the early 2000s, but tastes have once again shifted back in favour of smaller cases. In this context, the vintage-leaning 36.5 mm size feels just right. That said, while it makes sense for Chopar...
SJX Watches
True to form, IWC has expanded the Ingenieur Automatic 35 with two new references: a blue dial that completes the mid-sized lineup’s colour palette, and the first gem-set Ingenieur of the modern era. Both are straightforward line extensions but should prove commercially successful, especially in the context of current trends favouring smaller watches. Initial thoughts Vintage watch enthusiasts and buyers with smaller wrists will appreciate these additions to the catalogue, though many mainstream watch buyers dismiss any watch under 36 mm out of hand. That instinct is understandable, but misleading here: integrated bracelet watches wear more substantially than their diameters tend to suggest, and the Ingenieur 35 is a watch best understood on the wrist rather than on paper. With the introduction of a diamond-set two-tone reference, it appears IWC is positioning this size as the unisex choice for both men and women while exploring new formats for a broader appeal. New references in the Ingenieur lineup have arrived in a recognisable pattern. Reintroduced in 2023, the current-generation Ingenieur draws on the design language of Gerald Genta’s original but in a 40 mm steel case, offered from launch with silver and black-dialled variants. The ever-popular blue dial joined the 40 mm lineup a year after the collection’s refresh. The 35 mm size is following a similar pattern after launching last year with black and silver dial options. Inevitably blue The ref. IW324907 will ...
Time+Tide
Tudor announces a refreshed Black Bay Ceramic with a matt black ceramic case, a revised dial, and finally, an all-new full ceramic braceletThe post Tudor revises the Black Bay Ceramic, introducing the brand’s first fully ceramic bracelet appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
At Watches & Wonders 2026, Grand Seiko’s newest addition to the Elegance Collection brings together the things it does best. Namely, intricately textured dials with a nod to Japanese artistry, and its flagship Caliber 9R Spring Drive. Engraved to resemble a weathered rock face, the SBGY043’s striking dial suggests the appearance of a mountain at dusk: Grand Seiko calls this pattern iwao, which translates to rock or crag. Depending on the angle it’s viewed from behind its domed sapphire crystal, different facets take on intermingling light and dark tones of blue, purple, and black. Its color is inspired by the tradition of katsuiro dyeing, a centuries-old technique and reportedly a favorite among the samurai class, which produces a deep indigo hue. Set against bright silver markers and hands - no blued seconds hand here, which is almost its own Grand Seiko tradition - it makes for an especially understated contrast. This Iwao Blue version runs on the Caliber 9R31, a manual-wind Spring Drive movement with a 72-hour power reserve and visible through a clear caseback. The case is among the slimmest in the Elegance Collection, with standard zaratsu polishing and soft, rounded lugs. A nine-row stainless steel bracelet is the only option, which reflects the craggy-faced dial’s aura of ruggedness. Grand Seiko enthusiasts, of which there are many, might remember this dial from 2021 - albeit in a sharp-angled Heritage case and with a Caliber 9R65 Spring Drive mov...
Fratello
For 2026, Tudor has updated its extensive Royal lineup with new sizes, refreshed dial designs, and manufacture movements. The upgrade in calibers, in particular, is an anticipated and welcome step forward. But the aesthetic updates are also quite nice, giving some of the models a retro touch. Let’s take a closer look at the revitalized […] Visit Tudor Launches The Royal In Three New Sizes With An Updated Design And Upgraded Calibers to read the full article.
Deployant
Highlights from Louis Moinet releases - chronographs. The first is a chronograph with champagne dial and the other is in grey chronograph tourbillon.
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