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Barbier-Mueller Returns with the Mosaïque II SJX Watches
F.P. Journe Chronomètre Souverain movement – Jun 29, 2023

Barbier-Mueller Returns with the Mosaïque II

In 2017, the original Barbier-Mueller Mosaïque made its first public appearance at Only Watch. The collaborative efforts of longtime friends Stéphane Barbier-Mueller and François-Paul Journe, one being the preeminent independent watchmaker and the other a member of one of a Swiss real estate dynasty, this was an unexpected and rather pleasant surprise. Now, the pair have returned with the Mosaïque II, follow up to their initial offering, sticking to the same principles as before, but with the eye of watch designer Eric Giroud.  Initial thoughts Those who are fans of the original will be pleased to see all of the main traits have been carried over to this latest version. The stone work on the dial, case and hinged caseback is all there, and the two hander runs on the F.P. Journe Chronomètre Souverain movement – in fact, it is essentially an elaborately inlaid Chronomètre Souverain. If anything, they have elevated their previous efforts by incorporating more types of semi-precious stones in order to execute Mr. Giroud’s design. While Mr Giroud’s eye has given the Mosaïque II a different feel from its predecessor, the new watch still reflects Mr Barbier-Mueller’s interest in arts and culture, which was the basis for the original Mosaïque. Besides being a shareholder in F.P. Journe, Mr Barbier-Mueller is also a member of the family that established the Barbier-Mueller Museum in Geneva that’s famous for its world-class collection of tribal art. The original M...

Rexhep Rexhepi Introduces the Chronomètre Antimagnétique SJX Watches
Rexhep Rexhepi Jun 29, 2023

Rexhep Rexhepi Introduces the Chronomètre Antimagnétique

One of the most anticipated creations by an independent watchmaker at Only Watch 2023 is the Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Antimagnétique. Almost certainly amongst the most valuable watches in the sale, the Chronomètre Antimagnétique (RRCA) is a time-only wristwatch in stainless steel containing a Faraday cage to protect the against magnetism. It is the third timepiece created by Rexhep Rexhepi, founder of Akrivia, for the biennial charity auction. Though the specifics of the watch remain under wraps, a few facts have been revealed in the announcement. The dial will be “sector” or “scientific” style, while the case is stainless steel and made by the workshop of Jean-Pierre Hagmann. Classically proportioned in the typical Rexhep Rexhepi style, the case measures 38 mm by 9.95 mm. Interestingly, the case features a double back comprised of an inner sapphire back and an outer back that can be unscrewed by the wearer. And most importantly, the movement is a new construction. While the Chronomètre Contemporain I and Chronomètre Contemporain II that Rexhep Rexhepi created for past instalments of Only Watch were variants of standard models, the RRCA is equipped with a calibre developed from the ground up for the model. The RRCCII calibre inside the timepiece made for Only Watch 2021 While I can’t say any more about the watch, I can state that the RRCA deftly combines historical inspiration drawn from the magnetism-resistant watches made by the great watchmakers of Gen...

Omega Celebrates 75 Years of the Seamaster with the New “Summer Blue” Collection Worn & Wound
Omega Celebrates 75 Years Jun 27, 2023

Omega Celebrates 75 Years of the Seamaster with the New “Summer Blue” Collection

The Seamaster turns 75 this year, and if you thought Omega was going to let the anniversary pass without a major celebratory release, well, needless to say you’d be sorely mistaken. Today, the brand unveiled an 11 watch collection, covering the expanse of the Seamaster range to pay tribute to all aspects of what many would argue is a brand within a brand. More than anything, the new suite of Seamasters is a reminder of the diversity of watches made with the “Seamaster” name on the dial. Even more than the Speedmaster, the Seamaster collection represents the core of what Omega is as a brand today, a fully integrated manufacture that makes tech forward, accessible, heirloom quality watches for every possible scenario.  Omega has developed a remarkably coherent conceit behind this release, which they are subtitling “Precision at Every Level,” a reference to the brand’s high spec METAS certified movements and the range of depths Seamaster watches are certified to. The idea here is that Omega is using a shade of “Summer Blue” on each dial, but in lighter or darker gradients depending on the depth rating of the watch. The Aqua Terra, rated to 150 meters, has a dial that appears light blue with a subtle gradient effect, but once you get down to the depths of the Ploprof and Ultra Deep, the dials get darker with a more pronounced gradient. The blue used here is distinct from other shades of blue used throughout the Omega catalog, so these watches should be immedia...

Omega celebrates 75 years of the Seamaster with 11 new “Summer Blue” models across the collection (Live Video & Pics!) Time+Tide
Omega celebrates 75 years Jun 27, 2023

Omega celebrates 75 years of the Seamaster with 11 new “Summer Blue” models across the collection (Live Video & Pics!)

A gradient of 11 new “Summer Blue” configurations for the 75th anniversary of the Seamaster that darken as the depth rating increases Each model has a commemorative caseback with the signature Poseidon, trident, and two seahorses motif The previously discontinued Ploprof returns to the catalogue with a new resized monobloc case There are countless brands … ContinuedThe post Omega celebrates 75 years of the Seamaster with 11 new “Summer Blue” models across the collection (Live Video & Pics!) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Louis Erard and Massena LAB Follow Up on Last Year’s Regulator with a New Monopusher Chronograph Worn & Wound
Louis Erard Jun 27, 2023

Louis Erard and Massena LAB Follow Up on Last Year’s Regulator with a New Monopusher Chronograph

Last year’s Massena LAB collaboration with Louis Erard, a regulator in an unmistakably classic style with variants in gold and rhodium dial executions, was a success for both brands, with the watch being shortlisted for the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève. This week, that release gets a follow up in the form of the new Le Chronographe Monopoussoir Louis Erard x Massena LAB, a monopusher chronograph that shifts the design language of last year’s release to a new complication. The driving force behind Massena LAB, to make a style of watchmaking typically reserved for only the most well heeled collectors accessible to anyone, is very much apparent in the new monopusher, as it takes both a complication and visual aesthetic that are often associated with a certain level of opulence and made them quite a bit more approachable. The monopusher is an interesting counterpoint to last year’s regulator. In terms of mechanical complexity, the monopusher has a clear edge, yet the design here is striking in its restraint. The regulator shows its time telling information in a busy cluster of hands and subdials, but with the monopusher we only get one additional register, a 30 minute counter at the 12:00 position. It’s a simple and straightforward execution of a complication that can often be something of an eye chart, and with the single pusher that simplicity is carried over to the chronograph’s literal operation as well.  Aesthetically, we get a similar treatment on the ...

We asked you to describe the condition of this salvaged Rolex Submariner – these are our 5 favourite responses Time+Tide
Rolex Submariner – these are Jun 25, 2023

We asked you to describe the condition of this salvaged Rolex Submariner – these are our 5 favourite responses

Last week, we published a story on a Rolex Submariner watch that was salvaged by Australian surfer Matt Cuddihy. He found the watch trapped beneath a rock while snorkelling.   View this post on Instagram   A post shared by Time+Tide (@timetidewatches) When we here at Time+Tide were pushing around the idea of publishing a … ContinuedThe post We asked you to describe the condition of this salvaged Rolex Submariner – these are our 5 favourite responses appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

What’s worse than selling a $12,000 Rolex for $6,000 to buy drugs? Time+Tide
Rolex Jun 24, 2023

What’s worse than selling a $12,000 Rolex for $6,000 to buy drugs?

Whatever doesn’t kill you, may not actually make you stronger. But at least it provides good material for your Netflix show. That’s the case for comedian John Mulaney who’s discussed getting clean from his desperate addiction to cocaine, Adderall, Xanax, Klonopin, and Percocet in his stand-up special, Baby J. The show includes some forehead-slapping stories … ContinuedThe post What’s worse than selling a $12,000 Rolex for $6,000 to buy drugs? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Alpina Releases a Surprising Limited Edition for a Big Anniversary in the Heritage Carrée Mechanical Worn & Wound
Alpina Releases Jun 23, 2023

Alpina Releases a Surprising Limited Edition for a Big Anniversary in the Heritage Carrée Mechanical

Alpina is celebrating their 140th anniversary this year, and the brand that refers to themselves as the inventors of the sports watch have released a rather surprising limited edition to celebrate the occasion. Most recent Alpinas are very much in that very specific sport and adventure watch genre, and fit a familiar profile with modern sensibilities and a design language that speaks to their overall ruggedness. The new limited edition is cut from a very different cloth, and communes directly with the brand’s long history through the components of the watch itself. Using recently discovered and expertly restored vintage movements from the Alpina archives, the Alpiner Heritage Carrée Mechanical 140 Years is partially a history lesson, but also an example of a creative way to pay respect to the past.  This one starts with the movement. The Calibre 490 running inside the Heritage Carrée Mechanical was originally produced in 1938. A total of 28 vintage movements were recently uncovered by Alpina, and have been fully restored to function as they were originally intended when they came off the production line 85 years ago. The rectangular movements were not just ordinary, run of the mill calibers for Alpina at the time, but incorporated new features like a crown assembly that was patented to protect against the intrusion of dust into the case, and robust construction that would predict Alpina’s focus on sports watches in the years to come. The manually wound caliber beats...

[Video] Hands-On: SYE Mot1on Bullitt Limited Edition Chronograph Worn & Wound
Seiko VK64 Meca-Quartz Dial Green Jun 23, 2023

[Video] Hands-On: SYE Mot1on Bullitt Limited Edition Chronograph

SYE (Start Your Engine) is a French watch brand born of the founder’s interest in classic cars, and of course, watches. Not a new story, but their approach to watch design is. SYE has specifically honed in on the idea of leather hood straps for inspiration, appreciating how they incorporate a natural material in with otherwise metal creations. The result is the Mot1on (motion) series of watches, which utilize a novel, complicated, and stylish strap system to fuse metal and leather. $650 [Video] Hands-On: SYE Mot1on Bullitt Limited Edition Chronograph Case Titanium Movement Seiko VK64 Meca-Quartz Dial Green Panda Lume Hands Only Lens Sapphire Strap Leather Water Resistance 50M Dimensions 40.5 x 39.5mm Thickness 14mm Lug Width mm Crown Push-Pull Warranty Yes Price $650 As you’ll see in the video below, the SYE Mot1on chronograph comes in pieces in a box, requiring you to interact with the product upon arrival. Assembly is simple enough, and forces you to appreciate the quality of the product. The watch head has some unique details that give it personality, but the strap itself is what really impressed me. It’s a complex and high-end construction that could cost as much as the whole watch itself if a luxury brand made it. As someone with some experience in making leather straps, it really impressed me. The watch shown in the video is the Bullitt Limited Edition, which is the only SYE to feature a titanium case at this time. Measuring 40.5mm in diameter, it’s essential...

Highlights from the Sotheby’s Important Watches and Fine Watches June sales results Time+Tide
Jun 23, 2023

Highlights from the Sotheby’s Important Watches and Fine Watches June sales results

Sotheby’s hosted their live Important Watches sale on June 9 and their Fine Watches sale ended on June 15 Two Paul Newman-owned Daytona watches headlined the Important Watches Sale and sold for a combined US$2.2m Between the two auctions, total watch sales of US$21.03m were achieved Earlier this month, two Sotheby’s auctions were held with … ContinuedThe post Highlights from the Sotheby’s Important Watches and Fine Watches June sales results appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Norqain jazzes up the Wild One with skeleton-dialled duo Time+Tide
Norqain jazzes up Jun 23, 2023

Norqain jazzes up the Wild One with skeleton-dialled duo

Making waves upon its September 2022 release, the Norqain Wild One signalled that Jean-Claude Biver’s advisory role in the brand wasn’t just a marketing move, but rather a shot at the big leagues. With a new composite case made of the brand’s proprietary Norteq material and Kenissi power, it was clear that Norqain is investing … ContinuedThe post Norqain jazzes up the Wild One with skeleton-dialled duo appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hervé Schlüchter Debuts with L’Essentiel Regulator SJX Watches
Jun 22, 2023

Hervé Schlüchter Debuts with L’Essentiel Regulator

The latest watchmaker to launch a time-only watch with a finely finished movement is Hervé Schlüchter, who makes his debut with the L’Essentiel. A watchmaker who spent most of his recent career as a movement constructor at Bovet, Mr Schlüchter’s entry into the progressively more crowded segment features a regulator-style display with a day-and-night indicator and on the reverse, a hand-finished movement. Initial thoughts Having worked at Bovet and then spent time studying with Philippe Dufour, Mr Schlüchter has the background for a fine watch. Notably, Mr Schlüchter is an actual watchmaker, having trained as a watchmaker and repairer. As a result, the L’Essentiel is arguably purer in concept since it was developed and then produced by a watch-maker, rather than being drawn by a designer or engineer and then outsourced to specialists. The L’Essentiel lives up to expectations in terms of decoration and construction. It has impressively high quality in most respects: the dial is engine turned by hand, and includes fired enamel, and aventurine. The movement shows off lots of black-polished steel, chamfered edges, and polished countersinks. At CHF78,000 before taxes, the L’Essentiel has a decent price-to-quality ratio. But while watch is titled “The Essential”, it is ironically a lot, maybe too much, both stylistically and tangibly. As is increasingly the case with independent watchmaking, the product feels contrived because it wants to be everything that is ...

Parmigiani Tonda PF Gets Revamped Sport Mode Worn & Wound
Parmigiani Fleurier may be known Jun 21, 2023

Parmigiani Tonda PF Gets Revamped Sport Mode

Nearly every luxury watchmaker is feeling the need to have a sporty collection or reference in their stable these days, much the same as some of the great sports car marques needing an SUV all of the sudden. It’s just practical. Just what makes a watch sport worthy is up for debate, but it generally comes with a bit of water resistance, the ability to absorb a shock or two, and a rubber or textile strap. Bright colors optional. In reality it means a watch that’s better suited to everyday wear, and goes with a broader selection of your wardrobe. The sporting element simply implies comfort and practicality. Parmigiani Fleurier may be known for their formal wear, but they’re no strangers to the sport watch, and this week, the Tonda line gets a completely revamped sport collection called the Tonda PF Sport.  The new Tonda PF Sport collection will be replacing the Tonda GT collection with the introduction of 4 references that span steel and rose gold within a time and date, and chronograph configuration. The new watches bring a tighter cohesion to the Tonda family overall, taking a cleaner approach to the theme. The biggest shift from the GT collection is the date migration away from the unique oversized 12 o’clock position, and into the more controversial 4:30 position on the chronograph, and the 6 o’clock position on the time and date model. The Tonda GT watches had plenty of quirks, from their date execution, to the month display of the calendar models labeled, qu...

Singer Reimagined Introduces a Pair of Smaller Chronographs with Updated Movements and Features Worn & Wound
Jun 21, 2023

Singer Reimagined Introduces a Pair of Smaller Chronographs with Updated Movements and Features

If there was an easy knock you could make against the previous iterations of the Singer Reimagined chronographs, it’s that they were too big. At 43mm in a big cushion case, they have a ton of wrist presence to be sure, and require a larger wrist to pull off effectively. But they’re mechanically ingenious, and, in my opinion, pretty great looking from a purely aesthetic perspective, so I was always willing to forgive them for their size. Now, with a pair of watches in the brand’s new Singer 1969 collection, they’ve gone a long way toward answering doubters who made the large size of their earlier watches a dealbreaker. They’ve also incorporated new functionality, refining the mechanical piece to make their watches even more intuitive.  The 1969 Chronograph is the heavy hitter of the pair of watches announced today. This watch features an updated Agengraphe caliber that’s smaller (to fit the new 40mm case) and also includes a time display. Elapsed time is still read from the centrally mounted hands, but the current time is now displayed in an aperture at 6:00 via a pair of rotating discs. The chronograph incorporates jumping minutes and hours for precision, and the caliber is capable of timing events of up to 60 hours, which is a feat only Singer can claim.  The more modest 1969 Timer is my personal favorite of the two new watches. This is effectively an update of Singer’s Flytrack watches, which incorporate a 60 second timer via the centrally mounted running...

Close but no cigar: Why I welcome horological deal breakers Time+Tide
Jun 21, 2023

Close but no cigar: Why I welcome horological deal breakers

At this specific moment in my life, there’s no way I should even think about buying another watch. On the back of a series of interest rates hike and with a looming renovation for our family home, this just isn’t the right time to splash the cash. And yet… The problem with doing this job … ContinuedThe post Close but no cigar: Why I welcome horological deal breakers appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

New Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Sport collection brings a subtly sporty touch to the hit lineup Time+Tide
Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Sport collection Jun 21, 2023

New Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Sport collection brings a subtly sporty touch to the hit lineup

New Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Sport collection replaces former “GT” line Collection includes two chronographs and two automatics each presented with silver dials in steel and rose gold cases, and on integrated rubber straps The Sport Auto uses new 41mm case size, with the addition of a central seconds hand the PF Micro-Rotor does not … ContinuedThe post New Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Sport collection brings a subtly sporty touch to the hit lineup appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

[VIDEO] Battle of the White GMTs: Grand Seiko SBGE285 & Rolex Explorer II 16570 Worn & Wound
Grand Seiko SBGE285 & Rolex Explorer Jun 20, 2023

[VIDEO] Battle of the White GMTs: Grand Seiko SBGE285 & Rolex Explorer II 16570

There has never been a better time to be in the market for a GMT watch, with no shortage of great options at a wider range of prices than perhaps ever before. There is one watch that’s remained a pillar of the genre over the years, however, and that is the Explorer II reference 16570. It holds up just as well today as it did when it was introduced in the late ‘80s, and remains a favorite among enthusiasts for its sweet spot sizing, and a timeless design that seems to go with everything. But that’s a watch that’s been out of production for decades, so where is the modern incarnation of this ethos? We may have found a perfect candidate in the Grand Seiko SBGE285. Grand Seiko hasn’t exactly been at the center of the scruffy tool watch scene in the same way that 5 digit Rolex references have, but this SBGE285 offers a compelling case for Grand Seiko’s take on the genre with this modern tool-ish GMT. This is a watch that might look a little intimidating by the numbers, but offers a different experience on-wrist. It might not be as svelte as the Explorer II, but there’s plenty to admire here, from the stunning finishing on the hands and dial furniture, to the unorthodox case architecture, which are all executed to Grand Seiko’s high standards. Ultimately, these two watches offer very different experiences that reflect the two brands at their very best. That said, they do converge in a few surprising ways, which Kat and Blake discuss in this inside look at watches...

What Will I Pay for an Entry-Level Audemars Piguet? Teddy Baldassarre
Audemars Piguet Jun 20, 2023

What Will I Pay for an Entry-Level Audemars Piguet?

If you are on a quest for the “cheapest” Audemars Piguet watch, it’s best to accept one truism right up front: that the cheapest AP is still going to be, for most, a major investment. When it comes to the most desirable Audemars Piguet watches, you can expect to lay out no less than five figures even for a pre-owned model, and new models are so highly in demand that even their already pricey MSRPs will prove to be a frustrating mirage for many prospective buyers, as those watches will regularly be marked up even higher on the secondary market. Nevertheless, in keeping with our previous guides covering Rolex and Patek Philippe, and in the spirit of every Audemars Piguet owner/collector needing to start somewhere, here are three entry-level options from three AP collections, with some details on what makes each one distinctive. (Whether those distinctions are enough to move you to buy one will be up to you and, perhaps, your financial advisor.) Audemars Piguet began making watches in 1875, when founders Jules Louis Audemars and Edward Auguste Piguet first registered the brand in Switzerland’s Vallée de Joux. Now headquartered in the town of Le Brassus, it remains one of the very few privately owned firms in the watchmaking industry, still in the hands of the Audemars family. Renamed Audemars Piguet & Cie in 1881, the company primarily manufactured movements for other firms in its earliest days, including Tiffany and Co., but later gained renown for milestones like t...