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GMT & World Time

The traveller complications: Rolex's 1954 GMT hand and Louis Cottier's 1937 World Time mechanism.

Serica Introduces the 5303 PLD, a New Diver Made in Collaboration with the French Navy Worn & Wound
Serica Introduces May 15, 2025

Serica Introduces the 5303 PLD, a New Diver Made in Collaboration with the French Navy

Serica has unveiled the new 5303 PLD, a new dive watch the brand has developed in partnership with the French Navy. Specifically, the watch was developed with the EOD (Explosive Ordinance Disposal) team, which, I think most people will understand, is a fairly highly specialized and dangerous diving discipline. The watch follows the form and function of Serica’s popular 5303 diver, but with a few small tweaks that distinguish it from the standard version without calling out to its inspiration too overtly.  The most notable and obvious change from the standard 5303 is the new bezel, which has a “DT Max” scale as opposed to the standard dive bezel that allows you to count minutes from a given start time. The DT Max bezel features twin scales (minutes and meters) that display the “maximum working time” at a given depth. This allows a diver, in theory, to ascend continuously without decompression stops, a necessity for EOD divers. The number at the outer scale (“profonduer,” or depth) relates directly to a number on the inner scale, the number of minutes a diver can safely work. Not super functional for anyone not on a dive, but it provides a very real reminder of the danger of the sport, and adds a certain charm to the piece. The bezel itself is rendered in a shade the brand refers to as “abyssal blue,” and it’s a very nice shade that further sets this diver apart from other watches in the Serica lineup.  Serica has also tweaked the dial in small ways for...

Report: Geneva Spring Auctions 2025 SJX Watches
Richard Mille RM UP-01 Ferrari May 14, 2025

Report: Geneva Spring Auctions 2025

Despite everything, including tariffs and a strong Swiss franc, the Geneva auction season turned out to be a strong one, with some of the strongest results being in the most surprising segments. The bigger winner this season was Phillips, which sold a bit under 200 lots for CHF43.4 million including fees, while also claiming the most valuable lots for the season, reflecting Phillips’ strong leadership and team. Despite being the market leader by some margin, the Phillips catalogue was arguably the riskiest as it included several high-value pocket watches and clocks – timepieces that not part of mainstream collecting today. Yet the gamble paid off with the most valuable timepiece this season being its Breguet Sympathique no. 1 that sold for CHF5.51 million. Christie’s achieved CHF21.2 million with a similar number of lots that were arguably more conventional in taste and format than at Phillips. One of its most valuable lots was a Cartier Crash “NSO” with a special order dial that sold for CHF736,000 – one of the biggest surprises of the season but proof that being eye-catching enough for social media is a big factor in desirability and value today. Interestingly, the Crash sold for exactly the same as the Richard Mille RM UP-01 Ferrari. The Crash went for about 15 times the original retail, while the RM UP-01 was about half of retail. The Crash NSO “nickele” grey. Image – Christie’s Over at Antiquorum, the tally was CHF10 million – from almost 800 lot...

Hands-On: the Ace Jewelers x Cedric Bellon CB01 Small Seconds Worn & Wound
May 12, 2025

Hands-On: the Ace Jewelers x Cedric Bellon CB01 Small Seconds

When is a watch more than a watch? It honestly sounds like a pretty dumb question, but it’s a question that I just asked myself when writing about the Cedric Bellon CB01 – a grade 5 titanium watch that’s just as much a watch as it is a case study in sustainability. I’ll admit, when I first laid eyes on the watch, I thought it looked very raw, almost unfinished. Upon closer inspection and a deeper dive into the brand itself, it started to click. The CB01 is a joint partnership between Watch Angels (a crowd funding platform), Ace Jewelers (an Amsterdam-based retailer) and Cedric Bellon (a watch designer) – by their powers combined, this watch is good for the planet! Captain Planet jokes aside, the CB01 is a 40mm titanium watch that features a mix of finishing techniques, an interesting movement, and very wrist-friendly dimensions. Let’s dig in and take a closer look at this collaboration that aims to bring sustainability to your wrist in a big way.  Case Measuring in at 40mm wide by 47mm lug-to-lug, the CB01 is a nice fit for my 6.75” wrist. The case is crafted from repurposed titanium. At first, I thought that repurposed was synonymous with recycled, but it’s not. The core belief behind this watch design is that when possible, materials from other productions will be used for this project. So maybe there was too much material ordered for another project that can be used here, having the watch achieve a higher “circularity score”. The principle behind ci...

Introducing – The Bulgari Octo Finissimo Skeleton 8 Days Gübelin Special Edition Monochrome
Bulgari Octo Finissimo Skeleton 8 May 12, 2025

Introducing – The Bulgari Octo Finissimo Skeleton 8 Days Gübelin Special Edition

Collaborations are one of the hottest trends in watchmaking today, as brands, high and low, team up with artists, retailers, collectors – you name it – to create special customised editions. The latest collaboration involves Italian powerhouse Bulgari and Gübelin, the Swiss, family-owned jewellery and watch retailer. The model selected is the Octo Finissimo Skeleton […]

Tudor Introduces the Pelagos FXD Chrono “Pink” for the Giro d’Italia Worn & Wound
Tudor Introduces May 12, 2025

Tudor Introduces the Pelagos FXD Chrono “Pink” for the Giro d’Italia

It’s deja vu all over again. Just last week, we brought you news of Tudor’s latest release in carbon fiber, a Black Bay Chronograph made to celebrate their partnership with the Visa Cash App Racing Bulls F1 team. Just days after that announcement, Tudor followed up with yet another carbon chrono, this one built on the FXD platform. As with all of Tudor’s carbon watches to date, this new FXD Chrono has a very specific sports tie in as well, demonstrating that Tudor’s connections to the sports world are broad, and they’re likely to continue supporting their partners with new watches along the way.  The new Pelagos FXD Chrono “Pink” is a sequel of sorts to the Pelagos FXD Chrono “Cycling Edition” released a year ago. Both releases were timed to coincide with the Giro d’Italia, the famed Italian cycling race for which Tudor is the official timekeeper. Last year’s watch had prominent red accents, a design meant to evoke the colors of the Tudor Pro Cycling Team, this one has gone pink as a tribute to the race itself. The leader at the beginning of each stage dons a pink jersey, the “Maglia Rosa,” so the color has a deep connection to the race and Italian cycling culture.  The pink accents on the tachymeter scale and the 9 and 3 o’clock subdials, contrast nicely with the black dial, and complement the fabric strap with pink striping down the center. As with last years Cycling release, the tachymeter scale here is set up to time cycling speeds as oppo...

Introducing the StrapHabit x Worn & Wound Ride to Conquer Cancer Strap Worn & Wound
May 8, 2025

Introducing the StrapHabit x Worn & Wound Ride to Conquer Cancer Strap

We’re excited to share something special today: the StrapHabit x Worn & Wound RTCC Strap, a limited edition release that supports our 2025 Ride to Conquer Cancer team. This project is close to our hearts. In June, a team led by longtime Worn & Wound collaborator Matt Smith-Johnson will be hitting the road for a 200km, two-day ride to raise money for cancer research and care. We wanted to find a way to bring the community in, and what better way than through a great piece of gear? Built on StrapHabit’s super comfortable, premium sailcloth design, the RTCC Strap comes in a bold colorway inspired by the Ride to Conquer Cancer and features a custom-woven label showing your support. It’s durable, lightweight, and ready for anything - whether you’re clocking miles on a bike or just heading out for the day. Sizes? We’ve got you covered - available in 18, 19, 20, 21, and 22mm widths. Best of all, 100% of the profits from every strap sold go directly to support cancer research. Grab yours here while they last. Thank you for helping us make a difference. The post Introducing the StrapHabit x Worn & Wound Ride to Conquer Cancer Strap appeared first on Worn & Wound.

Introducing – Hamilton Expands the Khaki Navy Frogman Collection with a New, Black PVD Version Monochrome
Hamilton Expands May 7, 2025

Introducing – Hamilton Expands the Khaki Navy Frogman Collection with a New, Black PVD Version

Originally an American brand with a long history, Hamilton gained real-life experience in waterproof watches from a model used by US Navy underwater demolition teams. Dating back to 1943, Hamilton’s diver with an unusual locking mechanism on the crown was part of the Naval Combat Demolition Units (NCDUs) gear and used on mine-clearing missions. The […]

Tudor Introduces The New Black Bay Chrono “Carbon 25” Fratello
Autodrome May 5, 2025

Tudor Introduces The New Black Bay Chrono “Carbon 25”

We knew something was coming from Tudor this weekend. We also knew it would be related to this weekend’s F1 Grand Prix at the Miami International Autodrome. It had Tudor fans speculating what this new release could be. Especially after the Visa Cash App Racing Bulls F1 team announced a full pink race livery for […] Visit Tudor Introduces The New Black Bay Chrono “Carbon 25” to read the full article.

Tudor Introduces the Black Bay Chrono “Carbon 25” SJX Watches
Tudor Introduces May 3, 2025

Tudor Introduces the Black Bay Chrono “Carbon 25”

In what’s become an annual tradition, Tudor has just revealed a special edition on the eve of the Miami Grand Prix. But unlike last year’s Black Bay “Chameleon” destined only for the drivers of the Visa Cash App RB Formula 1 Team (VCARB), the Black Bay Chrono “Carbon 25” is a commercially available timepiece – but in a limited edition of 2,025 pieces. The Carbon 25 is presented in a carbon composite case, matched with a domed dial in the colours of the VCARB team that also sports carbon composite registers. Initial thoughts I’m a fan of Tudor in general, mainly because of the strong value proposition the brand offers in all its watches. The chronographs stand out as amongst the best in the price segment. However, the chronographs in steel are a little thick and weighty; the Carbon 25 definitely reduces the weight substantially, and it’s also a tiny bit slimmer. Tudor already has a carbon-case chronograph in the collection (that is actually thinner), but the Carbon 25 has a more appealing case design that retains all of the elements of the steel case, including the bevelled lugs. One detail that stands out are the carbon composite inserts in between the lugs that give the strap a better visual integration into the case. I like the Carbon 25, enough that I would buy one, but the watch is the most expensive chronographs in the Tudor catalogue, with a price of US$7,575. It is still well priced compared to the competition, but priced substantially more expensi...

The Best Grand Seiko Dials Teddy Baldassarre
Grand Seiko Apr 25, 2025

The Best Grand Seiko Dials

If there’s one thing Grand Seiko is known for, it is its textured dials….and Spring Drive…and Zaratsu polishing... Okay, one of the things Grand Seiko is known for is its textured dials. Often inspired by the beauty of the natural landscape surrounding Grand Seiko's manufacture in Japan, these dials are now often imitated but never truly replicated. We asked our editorial team here at Teddy to choose their favorite GS dial and, unsurprisingly, we got some really stunning picks here. So, without further ado, here are our Editors’ Picks for favorite Grand Seiko dials. Bilal Khan: SBGA011/SBGA211 "Snowflake" The Grand Seiko SBGA211 (originally the SBGA011), aka the Snowflake, is where it all began. Back in 2004, the watchmakers at the dial workshop in the Shinshu watch studio were given a novel task: create a dial that would capture the beauty of the natural surroundings of where the Spring Drive movement was born. The answer was in front of their eyes when they gazed at the snow-capped mountains that commanded their views for half the year. Creating this dial was a challenge but they found inspiration from an old 56GS watch dating back to 1971, which had a texture similar to what the team wanted to achieve. It took some trial and error but they found success through a silver plating method that would go on to birth the now-iconic "Snowflake" dial. It might look somewhat demure and less dramatic than more recent textured dials, but this is the quintessential Grand Sei...

Ming’s Tribute to Titanium: the 37.02 Ghost Worn & Wound
Ming Apr 21, 2025

Ming’s Tribute to Titanium: the 37.02 Ghost

The latest from Ming, the 37.02 Ghost, is something of a study in titanium, a favorite material here at Worn & Wound. Members of our team have been fans of titanium for years for its light weight and its frequent association with many of the tool watches we’ve come to love. Titanium was a rarely used material in watchmaking not that long ago, but it’s so prevalent now that it’s easy to forget that at one time it was considered quite exotic. The Ghost taps into some of that exoticism, and reminds us just how strange and, at least in some ways, how ill suited titanium can be to watchmaking – a fact that makes a watch like this all the more impressive.  The 37.02 Ghost is made entirely from grade 2 titanium, a material often referred to as “pure” titanium. This material is distinct from grade 5 titanium, which is much more common in modern watchmaking, in a number of ways. Grade 5 titanium is made up of significant quantities of aluminum and was developed to be relatively easy to machine for applications in aerospace and other industries. Those qualities also, eventually, made it well suited to watchmaking, and it’s really a special bonus that grade 5 titanium can be finished with a polish and has an overall brighter appearance than other titanium allows.  Grade 2 titanium is an entirely different animal. Ming notes that pure titanium is extremely difficult to cut, and there’s even a significant risk that grade 2 titanium shavings and dust can catch fire dur...

[VIDEO] Hands-On: the Trematic Archive One 502 Worn & Wound
Apr 20, 2025

[VIDEO] Hands-On: the Trematic Archive One 502

There’s that moment we all know too well-you’re deep in the rabbit hole of late-night doom scrolling through Instagram’s discovery feed, mindlessly thumbing through the same photos. Then, suddenly, one catches your eye and stops you dead in your tracks. You actually click on the post, you spread the image to zoom in, and then you do the unthinkable and read the caption. That is exactly how I ended up discovering Trematic and this specific model, the Archive One 501. I was completely unfamiliar with the brand, which, when combined with a design language that spoke to me, immediately sparked my curiosity. Specifically, it was the typeface used for the indices. Those quirky, alien-like 4, 6, and 10 markers, cast in rose gold tone, immediately grabbed my attention. They looked like something from a different time, maybe from a different planet, yet the watch overall felt refreshingly modern. A worn-out phrase lately, but the blend of vintage style and contemporary sensibilities didn’t feel tired, which is something I can’t say about many “retro-inspired” designs in the microbrand space. For those who haven’t encountered Trematic, let me give you a quick rundown: the brand dates back to the 1950s but faded into obscurity after the Quartz Crisis, just like many of its contemporaries. In 2022, Daniele Campagnano breathed new life into the brand, seeking to revive its forgotten legacy. The first model to re-enter the market was the Zy6, a watch we recently mentio...

Our Favorites from Watches & Wonders 2025 Worn & Wound
Massena Lab called Apr 18, 2025

Our Favorites from Watches & Wonders 2025

Did Watches & Wonders even happen if we don’t do a full team “Best Of” post? Hopefully, we’ll never find out. The verdict on this year’s show seems to be that it was stronger than expected, with plenty of iterative releases, but iterative releases that people generally seem to like, and want to buy (a good thing for the industry at a tricky moment, for sure). One thing that we get more sure of every year, though, is that no matter what the consensus happens to be on the show itself, there are always great watches there, and our contributors and Editorial team pick their favorites below. Zach Weiss  One of the best experiences at Watches & Wonders is simply being surprised. We often go into meetings having already read the press releases, and thus pretty much know what to expect. Well, this year I had the rare and fun opportunity to go in fairly blind to my meeting with Angelus as I simply hadn’t gone through their materials yet, and as a relatively quiet “indie” (quotes because they are technically under the umbrella of Citizen, though clearly operate independently), their watches hadn’t been splashed across my social media yet. So, with fresh eyes, I was presented this year’s main novelty, a trio of exceptional chronographs that I haven’t stopped thinking about since. In 2023, Angelus debuted the Le Fabrique collection via a collaboration with Massena LAB called the Chronographe Médical. A spiritual recreation of an archival piece, this monopusher ...

Editors' Picks: Our Favorite Watches & Wonders 2025 Releases Teddy Baldassarre
Apr 9, 2025

Editors' Picks: Our Favorite Watches & Wonders 2025 Releases

Watches & Wonders 2025 has come and gone and there was no shortage of unexpected releases and divided opinions. The editorial team here at Teddy was on the ground covering all the new launches, and afterward we asked them to name their favorite release from the show. It’s not an easy task, but we are going to have a few more of these post-show Editors’ Picks articles in the coming days that will expound a bit more on what we thought. For now, let’s get to our overall favorite picks from Watches & Wonders 2025. Danny Milton: Rolex Land-Dweller I won't belabor the point here, considering I penned about 2,000 words on this watch at launch, and helped produce our hands-on coverage at embargo. The Land-Dweller is seriously big news, and in all candor, is the watch of the show, full stop. It plays on nostalgia via its callback to the design language of integrated sports watches from Rolex in the 1970s. It introduces an entirely new design template in the modern Rolex context via a new case; a new, flat Jubilee bracelet; patented stick markers; new open applied numerals; new hands; a new counterweight on the seconds hand; and a new honeycomb dial, not to mention a new fluted bezel design. But the real star of the show is a silicon escapement made from the ground up. Dynapulse is perhaps Rolex's greatest innovation and results in a new 5Hz beat rate while maintaining accuracy, shock resistance and antimagnetic properties. But above all else, the watch honestly looks and wear...

Photo Essay: Patek Philippe Gets Nostalgic with Rare Handcrafts 2025 SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Gets Nostalgic Apr 9, 2025

Photo Essay: Patek Philippe Gets Nostalgic with Rare Handcrafts 2025

Just as Watches & Wonders 2025 comes to a close, Patek Philippe is opening the doors of its annual showcase of Rare Handcrafts at its historical home base along the Geneva waterfront. Now open for a period of three weeks rather than two as was the case for the 2024 exhibition, the exhibition features dozens of Dome Clocks, wristwatches, and pocket watches embellished with miniature enamel painting, cloisonné, marquetry, hand engraving, and other artistic forms of decoration. The view from the salon with the historic Four Seasons Hotel des Bergues on the left hidden by trees In addition to the usual nature-inspired themes, this year’s collection plays to nostalgia, including both rose-coloured memories of the past and antiquarian visions of the future. Visiting the Rare Handcrafts exhibit is enjoyable because intellectually it’s a level playing field; it’s mostly the same clocks and watches with the same specs and movements dressed up in different ways. This fact makes it easier to pay attention to one’s own heart, and to get drawn into the creations on an emotional level. Golden Ellipse ref. 5738/50R-020 “Regent Street” Clocks While the selection of clocks is naturally centered around the brand’s iconic Dome Clocks, Patek is also bringing back desk clocks with a new version of the ref. 27001M which sold for more than US$10 million at Only Watch in 2021. For the corporate titan who has everything, the million-franc desk clock ref. 27000M is embellished with e...

Introducing: Bright Red Sunburst Dials For The Tissot PRX Quartz Fratello
Tissot PRX Quartz It’s no Apr 9, 2025

Introducing: Bright Red Sunburst Dials For The Tissot PRX Quartz

It’s no secret that we are fans of the Tissot PRX here at Fratello. Multiple team members, including yours truly, own a PRX Powermatic 80, so we meet any new addition to the lineup with great interest. The latest expansion of the extensive PRX collection is a pair of red-dial versions of the PRX Quartz […] Visit Introducing: Bright Red Sunburst Dials For The Tissot PRX Quartz to read the full article.

IFL Watches Introduces The Bulova Super Seville Mural Inspired by New York’s Iconic Street Art Fratello
Bulova Super Seville Mural Inspired Apr 7, 2025

IFL Watches Introduces The Bulova Super Seville Mural Inspired by New York’s Iconic Street Art

The team at IFL Watches loves urban art. Quite a few of the brand’s hand-decorated dials are inspired by the colorful art that has graced New York City’s buildings, bridges, and metro trains through the decades. The iconic street art found its roots in NYC in the early 1970s and, from there, spread all over […] Visit IFL Watches Introduces The Bulova Super Seville Mural Inspired by New York’s Iconic Street Art to read the full article.

Baltic Introduces the Scalegraph Tour Auto Limited Edition Worn & Wound
Baltic Introduces Apr 2, 2025

Baltic Introduces the Scalegraph Tour Auto Limited Edition

Few hobbies work better in tandem than horology and motorsports. Impressive dials, colorful flamboyance, and calculated performance? Check and check. While many a watchmaker has created an automotive-inspired watch, however, how many have a bonafide racing team with which to test their timepiece?  The Baltic Scalegraph Tour Auto Limited Edition is both a celebration of the French brand’s third year as the Tour Auto official timekeepers, and a tool for the Baltic Racing team to take with them in the cockpit as they participate in the very same competition. The race takes participants-driving vintage performance cars-from Paris to Nice in different touring segments, all of which are open to spectators. The Baltic Racing crew will be driving a 1963 Lotus Elan 26R and a 1965 MG B-of course, they’ll also be sporting the new Scalegraph Tour Auto in a high octane field test for the sports chronograph watch.  In a nod to motorsports watch designs from the 1970s, the titular Scalegraph features a “Big Eye” layout, with off-white subdials at the 3 and 9 o’clock positions, making the minute sub-counter more legible at a glance while racing. A blue aluminum tachymeter bezel encircles the lighter blue dial, which in turn has an outer minutes railway in a middle-toned hue of blue, creating gentle layers of contrast directly inspired by the colors of the original Tour de France Automobile. A large silver 12 market sits at the top of the dial with a midcentury sans serif...

The Hublot Big Bang is Twenty Years Old – Here are the Anniversary Limited Editions Worn & Wound
Cartier Apr 1, 2025

The Hublot Big Bang is Twenty Years Old – Here are the Anniversary Limited Editions

I’m not sure I can name a more divisive watch on the planet than the Hublot Big Bang. Truly, you either love ‘em or hate ‘em, and there’s just no getting around it. Personally, I love ‘em. They’re big, dumb (in the best way), wildly fun, and totally unapologetic in a way few other watches are or even aspire to be. They’re also twenty years old, and Hublot knows that’s worth celebrating. Over the last two decades, the Hublot Big Bang has found itself all over the place, from the wrists of White Lotus Resort guests in Thailand (could there be a more perfect choice for Saxon Ratliff?) to the oversized clocks held up on the sidelines of the World Cup and everywhere in between. Genuinely, if I had to guess, I’ve probably seen more Hublot Big Bangs in the wild over the last two decades than just about any luxury watch besides Rolex, Omega, or Cartier. Of course, the Big Bang has actually seen a fair amount of evolution in the twenty years since its introduction, with the Big Bang Unico sitting at the fore these days. Still, an anniversary like this one is an opportunity to look back, and Hublot is doing just that, blending the look of the Big Bang Unico and Big Bang Original into a series of five special anniversary edition watches. This apt fusion (after all, fusion is what Hublot is all about) takes inspiration from the whole history of the Big Bang and synthesizes it all into this: the Hublot Big Bang 20th Anniversary. What the five models have in common are...

Fratello’s Top 5 Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Models Fratello
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Models Another Friday Mar 14, 2025

Fratello’s Top 5 Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Models

Another Friday, another list! Multiple people on the Fratello team own or have owned a Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso. One of them is Daan, who has a beautiful Reverso Classic Medium Duoface Small Seconds. He usually wears it on a leather and canvas Casa Fagliano strap. Last week, though, he swapped it for an Arroway mesh bracelet, […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Models to read the full article.

Just A Minute With The G-SHOCK DW5000R-1A Origin Worn & Wound
Feb 21, 2025

Just A Minute With The G-SHOCK DW5000R-1A Origin

41 years ago, the first G-Shock hit the scene. The DW5000C was the brainchild of Kikuo Ibe and was result of Project Team Tough’s pursuit of creating a watch that had great shock resistance, a 10-year battery life, and was water resistant up to 10 bar. More than 40 years later, the brand revisits its origin with the DW5000R-1A. The overall design of this tribute is very similar to the original. The case is slightly larger at 42.3mm yet it is still a stainless steel core that is now wrapped in bio-based resin instead of regular resin. Lug-to-lug is a compact 48.9mm which creates a very comfortable fit on the wrist. Even with the screw down case back, a design choice taken directly from the original, protruding from the back and increasing the overall thickness to 13.1mm. Inside the DW5000R-1A you’ll find the 3576 module. A huge leap forward from the original module 240 found in the DW5000C, the 3576 provides the wearer with an LED light, Stopwatch, Countdown Timer, Full Auto-Calendar and Alarm. This allows you to celebrate the original without sacrificing the comforts of modern watchmaking. 41 years ago, the first G-Shock hit the scene. The DW5000C was the brainchild of Kikuo Ibe and was result of Project Team Tough’s pursuit of creating a watch that had great shock resistance, a 10-year battery life, and was water resistant up to 10 bar. More than 40 years later, the brand revisits its origin with the DW5000R-1A. The overall design of this tribute is very similar t...

Introducing – Grönefeld Releases its First Ladies’ Watch, the 1944 Tanfana Monochrome
Grönefeld Feb 19, 2025

Introducing – Grönefeld Releases its First Ladies’ Watch, the 1944 Tanfana

Accomplished third-generation Dutch watchmakers Tim and Bart Grönefeld released their first watch in 2008, a complex minute repeater and tourbillon that set the tone for the brand’s trajectory. Trained in Switzerland, the Horological Brothers set up their atelier in their hometown, Oldenzaal, and are renowned for their reduced but horologically rich offering of exquisite handmade […]

IWC’s Super Shock Resistant Big Pilot XPL Gains Formula 1 Livery SJX Watches
Richard Mille Feb 18, 2025

IWC’s Super Shock Resistant Big Pilot XPL Gains Formula 1 Livery

IWC gives its exceptionally shock resistant – and strikingly expensive – aviator’s watch a new look. The Big Pilot’s Watch Shock Absorber XPL Toto Wolff is dressed in the black and green livery of the Mercedes-AMG Petronas Formula One Team that’s sponsored by IWC and led by Austrian auto entrepreneur Toto Wolff. Although largely unchanged from the original version, the Toto Wolff edition features a stamped, grained dial with a cleaner aesthetic and open-worked hands. And the BMG shock-absorbing spring that rings the movement is coated in Petronas green Super-LumiNova for maximum visual effect. Initial thoughts Despite its (very) limited commercial success, the original Big Pilot XPL is an interesting example of horological engineering. While its considerable price tag was debatable, the technology inside was novel and exemplifies IWC’s historical focus on engineering. The new iteration is hardly revolutionary since it’s merely a cosmetic makeover, but it does bring a new aesthetics that might give the watch a bigger audience, especially with the high profile of Formula 1 and Toto Wolff himself thanks to the Netflix series about the sport. The new Toto Wolff edition is priced at US$102,000, comparable to the first version and steep for a time-only watch, especially so for an IWC. However, seen another way, the price is perhaps competitive since the another brand that has long emphasised shock resistance and Formula 1 is Richard Mille, and any of its watches is...