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Quill & Pad
Well, here we are in February 2020: a leap year. Which means that for the first time in four years we will have a February 29. This is one of those times that has watch enthusiasts with perpetual calendars anxiously checking their watches for the leap from February 28 to 29 and then on to March 1. Here are five perpetual calendars perfect for watching the date “leap” into action.
Time+Tide
This review of the DOXA SUB 200 Professional by our friends at Hodinkee nails the good, the great and the not quite perfect details of what is proving to be a significant release. Not only for DOXA because - as James says, using a perfect music metaphor - the 200 “turns the funk down to a more … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: Is the DOXA SUB 200 Professional good value? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Synonymous with playing Iron Man in Disney’s The Avengers franchise, Robert Downey Jr. is also a fan of Urwerk, having worn several of its watches on screen. Having loaned an Urwerk UR-105 CT to Mr Downey to wear in Avengers: Endgame, the watchmaker then offered the watch up for a good cause, selling it at Phillips auctioneers last year for US$312,500. Proceeds from the sale went to Random Act Funding, a charity established by Mr Downey and his wife, Susan. Now another watch worn by Mr Downey is going under the hammer, once again to benefit Random Act Funding. The watch in question is the UR-111C Black that was worn by Mr Downey to the premieres of Avengers: Endgame in New York and Los Angeles last year. Robert Downey Jr. sporting the UR-111C. Photos – Urwerk Offered in like-new condition, the UR-111C is one of just 25 examples made and identical to the standard model save for one important detail: “RDJ” is engraved on the case place where the serial number would usually be. The watch is being sold in an online auction, with the bidding starting at 125,000 Swiss francs. Bids can be placed from now until 9:00 pm Swiss time on February 24. Only registered members of Urwerk Pre-Owned can bid on the watch, and registration can be done on Urwerkpreowned.com. For more information, please contact Urwerk social media manager Alex Rose.
Time+Tide
Find Part 1 of the Rolex Datejust history right here. A Power Watch in 1989: The Reference 16233 A good example of the historical adaptability of the Datejust came with the reversal of world fortunes in the 1980s. There were the literal fortunes made by young traders on Wall Street but also the overall optimism … ContinuedThe post IN-DEPTH: Exploring 3 eras of the Rolex Datejust – Part 2 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Editor’s note: The Blancpain Fifty Fathoms is, in the context of a fit-for-purpose dive watch, the original. Nothing like it had come before, and because of it, watches like Rolex’s ubiquitous Submariner exist – the Fifty Fathoms was the catalyst for what is arguably the most popular sub-genre of timepieces ever created. But, while recognising … ContinuedThe post Genesis, with a twist: The Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Black Ceramic appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Friday, February 28 will be our first ‘Indie Explorer’ night at Time+Tide HQ, with a number of small, lesser-known brands on hand for exploration. They are Laventure, Lundis Bleus, Eza and, of course, DOXA, for whom we are the proud distributor in Australia. We will have a (increasingly) limited range to discover, as well as … ContinuedThe post Join us at our first ever ‘Indie Explorer’ night at Time+Tide HQ in Melbourne appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Editor’s note: Franck Muller are known for their incredibly complex movements, wonderfully curved case designs, and brightly coloured dials. But did you know that each Franck Muller dial is hand-painted? That’s right, there is a dedicated dial painter with a very steady hand, who is responsible for adding that characteristic splash of colour to the … ContinuedThe post Why it’s so challenging to paint a Franck Muller dial appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
In just 10 days, on Saturday the 29th February, we will be throwing a bash at our headquarters to celebrate the recent Watch & Act! World Watch Auction – with proceeds once again donated to bushfire relief. Our special guests on the night – and we’re rightfully excited about this part – are the Horological … ContinuedThe post It’s nearly time for the Watch & Act! Wrap Party and you’re invited appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Google Maps has done a good job of ruining the job of the safari-suited explorer, taking crystal clear pictures of the entire surface of the rock we call home. Where there is hope for the Indiana Jones’ of the world is what lies beneath the surface, where under the white-capped waves of the world’s oceans … ContinuedThe post IN CONVERSATION: With ocean explorer Fabien Cousteau appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Stetz & Co recently published an interview with one of the foremost vintage watch aficionados on the planet, Mr Roni Madhvani. Madhvani - or as he goes by on Instagram, @roni_m_29 - has a truly unbelievable collection of some of the rarest and most eccentric timepieces from the likes of Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet and … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: An interview with Roni Madhvani appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Almost exactly a year after Breitling announced the Navitimer Ref. 806 remake – a spot-on remake of the first Navitimer and a smash hit – the watchmaker has applied the same formula for the AVI Ref. 765 1953 Re-Edition, a limited edition of 1,953 watches in steel. Introduced in 1953 and produced in several variants until 1965 when it was rebranded the Co-Pilot, the AVI ref. 765 was typical of mid 20th century pilot’s chronographs, with large Arabic numerals, syringe hands, and a steel rotating bezel. In fact, it is reminiscent of the Type 20 chronographs supplied by Breguet, Auricoste and other firms to the French navy and air force during the same period. Remade exactly And the AVI ref. 765 was oversized for the era, with a case measuring 41.1 mm. According to Breitling, the AVI Re-Edition replicates the original to the smallest detail, down to the tenth of a millimetre of case diameter. The steel bezel is even secured by three screws in exactly the same spots as on the original. Only two external elements on the remake have been changed: one is the removal of “Geneve” from the dial, a necessity given Breitling’s location; and the other is the increased water resistance of 30 m. That being said, modern production techniques and materials mean that rather than being perfectly identical, the replica is probably better in fit and finish than the original. The lacquer-filled engraving on the bezel, for instance, is more precisely done on the modern version. The vi...
SJX Watches
Slim, elegantly and typically Breguet in style – the gently off-centre dial echoes asymmetric pocket watches – the Classique Tourbillon Extra-Plat 5367 was originally launched with a guilloche dial, before being given a white, fired enamel dial. And last year Breguet debuted a striking variant with a fully skeletonised movement decorated in a surprisingly elaborate manner. For 2020 Breguet has returned to its traditional look, albeit with a twist: the dial has been transformed into deep blue enamel for a boutique-only edition. Similar to the makeover applied to the time-and-date Classique 5177, the blue dial is grand feu enamel – vitreous enamel set by firing it in an oven at temperatures over 800°C. The dial starts as a disc of solid gold, which is then painted with a mixture of enamel powder, water and oil. It’s then baked in an oven, and the process repeated several times until the deep blue colour is achieved. The surface is then ground down by hand to give it a mirrored finish, before undergoing a final trip to the oven. The star and lozenge minute track is inspired by the same on vintage pocket watches Then the markings on the dial – including the symbols of the minute track and Breguet numerals – are printed in powdered silver, which gives them a granular, metallic sheen. And faintly etched by laser just above the tourbillon is the Breguet “secret” signature, a feature devised in the 19th century to distinguish genuine Breguet pocket watches from ...
SJX Watches
An annual edition now in its 14th year, the “Laureus Sport for Good” helps support the foundation of the same name, which promotes sport amongst disadvantaged and disabled children around the world. In a departure from the norm of using a current model as the base, the 2020 edition is a brand-new reference that’s not yet in the catalogue (though it probably will be by Watches & Wonders 2020), the Portugieser Monopusher Chronograph “Laureus Sport for Good”. The Portugieser Monopusher Chronograph is an unusual watch: a manual-wind, single-button chronograph with a long power reserve of 192 hours, or eight days. It’s powered by the cal. 59360, which has a notably thin chronograph mechanism built over the cal. 59000 eight-day movement. The movement, however, not actually new. It was last used in 2015 inside the Portofino monopusher chronograph, but subsequently absent until now. (Reputedly the movement had kinks that required fixing, particularly in terms of timekeeping while running the chronograph.) The cal. 59360 with its thin chronograph mechanism; note the wide and flat column wheel The movement is wide and relatively flat, resulting in a large watch that’s 46 mm wide and just shy of 14 mm high. Given the traditional Portugieser design of a wide dial and narrow bezel, the size of the watch is particularly pronounced. As is traditional with the Laureus edition, the dial is a deep, metallic blue with ample space for the two chronograph registers as well as the...
Time+Tide
Editor’s note: The one-watch collection is forever in the back of the minds of watch collectors, as a consideration of how one’s tastes might look when reduced to a single timepiece. A fun extension of this thought is what one might wear during the apocalypse, and you’d be hard pressed to arrive at a better … ContinuedThe post Gunmetal greatness with the Casio G-Shock GMW-B5000V appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
A few weeks ago, Nicholas Kenyon and I got into a bit of a row over whether it was a crime or indeed sublime to double wrist a mechanical wristwatch and an Apple Watch. Kenyon was firmly in the sublime camp, whereas I was, well … you can read my thoughts on the matter right … ContinuedThe post Crime or Sublime: Double Wristing with a mechanical and Apple Watch – the results appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Vacheron Constantin introduces the Égérie, a whole new line of ladies watches. Discover the three watches in the launch series.
SJX Watches
Reviving a name once used for a line of tonneau-shaped women’s watches, Vacheron Constantin has just unveiled the Égérie, now a round watch with an unusually positioned crown. Translating as “muse”, Égérie is a slightly larger and more casual automatic watch for ladies, setting it apart from Vacheron Constantin’s current offerings for ladies, which are mostly downsized or quartz versions of men’s watches, as well as pricey, high-jewellery timepieces. That also sets it apart from its namesake, introduced in 2003 with a tonneau case, which lasted several years in the catalogue but never quite took off. Inspired by haute couture according to Vacheron Constantin, the new Égérie line is centred on two models, with either a moon phase or date. Each is offered in pink gold or steel, as well as a fully diamond-set version in white gold, for a total of five models. Égérie Self-Winding (top row), and Égérie Moonphase All models share a fully polished case with a diamond-set bezel, with a silver opaline dial featuring an offset sub-dial at two o’clock that sits just beside the crown, topped with a moonstone cabochon. The dials are decorated with a pleated, radial guilloche done the traditional way, with a hand-operated rose engine. The engine-turning is intersected up by a chapter ring with spherical markings for the minutes and applied gold hour numerals. Specially designed for the collection, the numerals are a modern take on traditional Breguet numerals...
Time+Tide
At the time of writing, the Coronavirus outbreak has already infected more than 70,500 people in China and resulted in 1770 deaths. It’s forced the quarantine of more than 50 million people in China and resulted in travel and visa restrictions to more than 70 countries. If that’s not bad enough, a new article in … ContinuedThe post 3 reasons why the Coronavirus is really bad news for the luxury watch industry appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Auction catalogues often offer early 20th century pocket watches of impressive, refined quality that bear the names of unfamiliar Geneva firms. Amongst the most prominent are Agassiz, Ed. Koehn, Haas Neveux, and Touchon. Despite their obscurity now, these brands were once amongst the best in the world – arguably the equals of Patek Philippe or Vacheron Constantin, producing or retailing highly complicated and extra-thin timepieces. All of them, save for one, are now defunct and long forgotten. In fact, most went under long before the Quartz Crisis. A single name has survived and prospered while remaining a family business, by evolving its business over the centuries – Golay Fils & Stahl. A familiar name As an avid reader of auction catalogues, I had come across Golay Fils & Stahl on several occasions, and the name stayed with me because of the high quality of firm’s pocket watches (Haas Neveux being another). Then in November 2019, Phillips sold the Patek Philippe ref. 3652 minute-repeating wristwatch. Not only was the watch relatively recent, having been made in 1985, it was a unique reference powered by a reworked vintage movement – and signed “Golay Fils & Stahl” on the dial. Few retailers get their name on modern Patek Philippe watches, let alone a one-off, custom timepiece. It piqued my curiosity. The ref. 3652 – essentially a Calatrava ref. 96 minute repeater By sheer chance that curiosity was satisfied when Melissa Wolfgang Amenc got in touch after see...
Time+Tide
While watches equipped with a moon phase complication aren’t without their detractors, for the astronomically inclined, they are wonderful devices. And, from an aesthetic standpoint, timepieces just tend to look better when they sport some form of moon on their dial. Don’t believe us? Well, take a look at these four watches … maybe they’ll … ContinuedThe post Out of this world: These are 4 of the most attractive moon phases money can buy appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Ben came into the Time+Tide offices to buy a NATO strap for his TAG Heuer Monaco. But the conversation quickly turned to the unusual Bulgari diver’s watch on his wrist. Here, Ben explains the backstory behind the purchase and why - despite it contradicting everything he normally likes in a watch - he absolutely loves it. Originally, … ContinuedThe post What Sealed The Deal: Ben’s Bulgari Diagono Scuba appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
It’s a good thing that wearing a watch is something that you can do regardless of the weather, because Australia is in the midst of an absolute doozy of a summer. Over the last few months devastating fires have ravaged the countryside, and now parts of the land are completely flooded. Regardless, I went out … ContinuedThe post Weekend watch (and race car) spotting with JR appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Well, this is a bit different to a normal What Sealed The Deal … seeing as this Baume & Mercier Capeland Chronograph is actually my watch. I purchased it late last year after a particularly dogged haggling match that started with a seemingly innocuous Gumtree.com ad. Anyway, I’ll spare you the deets of the torrid exchange … ContinuedThe post What Sealed The Deal – James’s Baume & Mercier Capeland Chronograph appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
Dedicated ladies’ watches are a relatively surprising turn of direction for Zenith, which has primarily concentrated on men’s watches up to now. Elizabeth Doerr takes a look at the fresh new feminine additions of the Zenith Defy Midnight And Elite Classic collections for 2020.
Time+Tide
Of all the Swiss watch manufacturers, Audemars Piguet has had one of the longest and most storied histories since their founding in the Vallée de Joux in 1875. For their entire period of operation, Audemars Piguet has been a family-run watchmaker, affording them an independence from the commercial pressures of conglomerates and allowing the brand … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: In conversation with Audemars Piguet historian Michael Friedman appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
WatchAdvice
Sinn. Unashamedly built for purpose, where function trumps form. The German brand is known for creating over-engineered tool watches that will last the wearer a lifetime, but perhaps not so necessary for everyday life, job depending of course. While the aviation aesthetic ties are strong and well documented, Sinn has expanded in recent years to entice a broader consumer with options that are more suited to civilian/everyday life. The Sinn104 StSa I W, being a collective hybrid of aviation and diver resulting from this design direction. CASE: The 104 could be considered mostly a modern interpretation of a pilots watch with a sprinkle of diver DNA. The highly polished, stainless steel case and lugs scream dressy attire, yet the angular, sharp lugs give a slightly more aggressive demeanour. Small crown guards are provided to add some protection to the more than adequate signed crown, which at times can dig into the wrist with specific movements if not worn higher on the wrist. On the reverse, a sapphire display case back reveals the SW220-1 movement along with some minor decorations such as gold rotor and blued screws. The drawback here being the 38hr power reserve which at times can be a reach and winding of the movement is…not the smoothest. The tech inside includes; anti-shock, anti-magnetism and a hefty 200mWR which puts other “sports watch” to shame. DIAL: There is no doubt the 104 is built for one purpose…legibility. The beautiful white glossy dial...
Revolution
Sinn introduces two new pilot watches, the 158 Pilot Chronograph inspired by the Sinn Bundeswehr and the 104 St Sa A B E in a radiant blue.
Time+Tide
Amsterdam microbrand Batavi pays homage to the famous tool watches of yesteryear, with the modern Kosmopoliet GMT.The post INTRODUCING: The Batavi Kosmopoliet GMT appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
It was during a particularly cold snap in January that I decided to get off the couch and out of the house. I was restless. The internet had been bombarding me with watch photos, opinions, reviews and advertising. I’m quite sure the only Google algorithm pointed at me is for watches. On that frigid January … ContinuedThe post Why I put my own money behind the Omega Seamaster Diver 300M appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Your weekly round-up of the best vintage watches from around the web.
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