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Results for Above the Date Window

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Above the Date Window: Steve McQueen's Monaco and What Sotheby's Catalogues Really Tell You

How a sliver of dial real estate above the date window decodes provenance on every screen-worn Heuer Monaco that has passed through Sotheby's and Phillips.

Phillips to auction Rolex Deep Sea Special – and my own encounter with a real monster of the deep Time+Tide
Rolex Deep Sea Special – Sep 20, 2021

Phillips to auction Rolex Deep Sea Special – and my own encounter with a real monster of the deep

Early November will see Phillips auction a very unusual, and not made for public, Rolex Deep Sea Special. This watch was based on the experimental Rolex that rode the outside of the Trieste bathyscaphe that, in January 1960, dove to the bottom of the Mariana Trench, some 10,900 metres deep. Following the successful dive and … ContinuedThe post Phillips to auction Rolex Deep Sea Special – and my own encounter with a real monster of the deep appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Vacheron Constantin Introduces the Overseas “Everest” Chronograph and Dual Time SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Introduces Sep 20, 2021

Vacheron Constantin Introduces the Overseas “Everest” Chronograph and Dual Time

Two years ago Vacheron Constantin created a prototype of an Overseas Dual Time for American mountaineer Cory Richards, who then scaled Mount Everest with the watch. An unusual combination of titanium and tantalum, the prototype was a hit, and soon after sold for just over US$106,000 at auction, with the proceeds going to the National Geographic Society. Its popularity meant Vacheron Constantin (VC) would inevitably put the watch into serial production one way or another. And it has done so – in two versions – with the Overseas “Everest” Chronograph ref. 5510V and Overseas “Everest” Dual Time ref. 7910V. The Everest Chronograph on Mr Richards Initial thoughts I was a fan of the Cory Richards prototype for two reasons. It was intrinsically good looking, in both design and colours, but at the same time it felt original and less similar to other luxury-sports watches. I like the fact that VC translated the prototype into production models without losing the distinctive look and feel. Although the prototype was clearly an Overseas, it had an entirely different case with guards for both the crown and pusher, a feature that has been reproduced on the limited editions. In other words, the Everest editions are not merely the standard models with a new dial. The prototype made for Cory Richards’ ascent of Everest in 2019 The new limited editions both look equally good, though the chronograph is more appealing because of its proportions. It is wider and slightly thick...

My grandfather’s Vacheron Constantin was the antithesis of my taste in watches. And then I fell in love… Time+Tide
Vacheron Constantin was Sep 18, 2021

My grandfather’s Vacheron Constantin was the antithesis of my taste in watches. And then I fell in love…

My Vacheron Constantin is actually a watch I inherited rather than bought. When my grandfather passed, nobody in my family was aware the watch existed. My father found it amongst a few other watches in his bedside drawer (including his daily Tag Heuer 1500, which I now own as well). When I got the text … ContinuedThe post My grandfather’s Vacheron Constantin was the antithesis of my taste in watches. And then I fell in love… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Ulysse Nardin Introduces Classico The Hour Glass Ginza 25th Anniversary SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Tourbillon Sep 17, 2021

Ulysse Nardin Introduces Classico The Hour Glass Ginza 25th Anniversary

A mainstay of the luxury-watch scene in Tokyo for a quarter century, The Hour Glass in Ginza is the only Japanese outpost of the Singapore-based watch retailer. Led since its opening by watch veteran Atsushi Momoi, the store in the posh shopping district recently reopened after a makeover, just in time for its 25th anniversary. To mark the occasion, the store commissioned a pair of limited-edition models, including the Ulysse Nardin Classico The Hour Glass Ginza 25th Anniversary (and the other a Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Tourbillon in platinum). The newly-revamped store in Ginza Initial thoughts Unsurprisingly given the experience of Mr Momoi and his team, the Ginza anniversary edition has an appealing, classical aesthetic characterised by a strong attention to detail. In fact, despite its simplicity, the dial is replete with elegant, smart details. One of the most subtle is the fact that “Swiss made” sits on the minute track, streamlining the dial. And it goes without saying the date has been removed. And illustrating the discretion often prized by Japanese clientele, the most expensive upgrade to the watch is hidden – the 22k gold rotor on the back. Sophisticated, classical style While UN typically favours Roman numerals on its watches, the Ginza anniversary edition is executed in a style that is decidedly classical, reflecting the taste of the Japanese consumer. The dial is “salmon” in tone and finished with a radial guilloche, with applied Breguet n...

Introducing the MIH Gaïa Watch Series II SJX Watches
Sep 16, 2021

Introducing the MIH Gaïa Watch Series II

The largest time-measurement museum in the world, the Musée International d’Horlogerie (MIH) is located in the heart of Switzerland’s watchmaking region, so its fundraising project announced two years ago took an unsurprising form – a limited-edition watch. Inspired by the brutalist museum building and produced entirely by local suppliers, the watch sold out quickly. Now the museum has announced the MIH Gaïa Series II, which will once again go towards funding the restoration of one of its prized exhibits. Initial thoughts I liked the original MIH Gaïa watch (enough to buy the very first one). The new edition has all of the features of the first – they are essentially the same, so it will have the same appeal. Even after more than a year, the watch still feels novel on the wrist. I’m pleased with mine in blue, but I do like the black dial, especially in how it matches the case. Given the quality-price ratio and the fact that proceeds go towards an important watch museum, this is a compelling, worthwhile buy. Edition noire The Series II is identical to the original run, save for the dial colour. While the first edition was dark blue, this has a black dial with a subtle radial brushing. Produced by the same suppliers responsible for the first edition – nearly all of them in the museum’s hometown – the watch has a 39 mm steel case with angular lugs and a simple but unusual display where both the hours and minutes and indicated by rotating discs. A narrow ...

Talking Watches And Guitars With The Legendary John McLaughlin: From Miles Davis To Mahavishnu And Now Only Watch Quill & Pad
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Sep 15, 2021

Talking Watches And Guitars With The Legendary John McLaughlin: From Miles Davis To Mahavishnu And Now Only Watch

After Colin Alexander Smith recently noticed John McLaughlin wearing an Audemars Piguet Royal Oak in live footage from the 1990s along with various other interesting timepieces, he somewhat cheekily asked him for an interview to discuss his watches rather than his music or his guitars, to which he kindly agreed. Not surprisingly they ended up discussing all three in this riveting interview spanning decades' worth of music, stories, and timepieces.

Audemars Piguet Unveils the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar in Titanium SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Unveils Sep 15, 2021

Audemars Piguet Unveils the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar in Titanium

The current generation Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar has become the favourite platform for national or regional editions, with Audemars Piguet (AP), having debuted almost ten different versions over the last few years, including limited runs for China, Hong Kong, and Thailand. And the brand has just taken the covers off a special edition for the American market (at least initially, with other countries getting a shot at the watch later on): the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar 41 mm in titanium with an unusual, two-tone tapisserie guilloche dial in grey and blue. Initial thoughts The blue tapisserie dial is so familiar that the new Perpetual Calendar doesn’t seem new on its face. In fact, it might pass for the steel version with a blue dial, with only the grey sub-dials setting the two apart. That said, the latest Royal Oak perpetual is a good-looking watch, with a handsome, restrained style and colours that echo the original “Jumbo” ref. 5402. Traditionally, Royal Oak Perpetual Calendars have sub-dials that match the dial, but contrasting calendar registers actually makes sense since they distinguish between the functions. The two-tone dial on the latest model does that, while adding visual contrast. At the distance the two colours might not be obvious, but they will certainly be apparent up close. The hands and markers are white gold In addition to the contrasting sub-dials, the case metal is also relatively uncommon for a Royal Oak – the very first Royal Oak Perpe...

Audemars Piguet Introduces the Royal Oak Supersonnerie in Titanium SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Introduces Sep 14, 2021

Audemars Piguet Introduces the Royal Oak Supersonnerie in Titanium

First introduced as a handful of limited editions (including for Japanese retailer Yoshida), the minute repeating, luxury-sports watch has finally become a permanent addition to the Audemars Piguet catalogue with the Royal Oak Minute Repeater Supersonnerie in Titanium. Despite its low-key looks, a tone-on-tone palette of a smoked, grey dial and brushed titanium case, the Royal Oak repeater  is loud – literally – thanks to the patented Supersonnerie system within, which produces chimes that are clearer and louder than those of a traditional striking wristwatch. Initial thoughts The superb acoustics are unquestionably the focal point of the latest from Audemars Piguet (AP) – it is undeniably a successful striking complication thanks to the clever case (we explained the Supersonnerie in an earlier story). But the design of the Royal Oak repeater is arguably near perfect and worth a leading mention. At a glance the repeater looks very much like a typical Royal Oak, but the dial layout gives it perhaps the most classical face amongst its siblings. It has no date, and instead a small seconds at six to replace the central seconds found on most Royal Oak models. The seconds-at-six layout is typical of a dress watch, and it isn’t special per se, but it is unique for a Royal Oak, which was after all designed as a sports watch. By way of its thinness (at least in its original ref. 5402 “Jumbo” guise), the Royal Oak has always retained an elegant air that resonates wit...

Geneva Watch Days 2021 Round Table Discussion: What We Liked, What We Didn’t Like, And What We’d Buy From The Watches Presented At This Relaxed, Sunshine-Filled Fair Quill & Pad
Sep 12, 2021

Geneva Watch Days 2021 Round Table Discussion: What We Liked, What We Didn’t Like, And What We’d Buy From The Watches Presented At This Relaxed, Sunshine-Filled Fair

The 2021 edition of Geneva Watch Days was by most measures a successful event as the watch world slowly gets back to a modicum of normality. The presentations proved exciting as we could finally handle real watches instead of looking at them on a screen. We saw old friends, made new ones, and remembered why we love spending time talking watches. Here are our personal picks for "best of" in a number of categories. What were yours?