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The best rectangular watches of 2021 from Jaeger-LeCoultre to Fears with a dash of colour Time+Tide
Jaeger-LeCoultre Aug 25, 2021

The best rectangular watches of 2021 from Jaeger-LeCoultre to Fears with a dash of colour

Some people (yes, me) have a mental block, and just can’t being themselves to put on a rectangular watch. While I love the often Art Deco-inspired panache of rectangular watches, I have more than 20 watches to my name and they’re all ROUND, a sad state of affairs perhaps? But this year I think I … ContinuedThe post The best rectangular watches of 2021 from Jaeger-LeCoultre to Fears with a dash of colour appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

“A big chunk of the industry is somewhat screwed.” An interview with Fears MD, Nicholas Bowman-Scargill Time+Tide
Fears Aug 25, 2021

“A big chunk of the industry is somewhat screwed.” An interview with Fears MD, Nicholas Bowman-Scargill

I’m going to put it out there and say there is no more charismatic person in today’s watch world than Fears managing director Nicholas Bowman-Scargill. In an industry littered with formidable personalities – hi Jean-Claude Biver, Patrick Prunnaux and Georges Kern – there is something refreshing about he of the double-barrelled name, and that is … ContinuedThe post “A big chunk of the industry is somewhat screwed.” An interview with Fears MD, Nicholas Bowman-Scargill appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hublot Unveils the Big Bang Integral Tourbillon Rainbow SJX Watches
Hublot Unveils Aug 24, 2021

Hublot Unveils the Big Bang Integral Tourbillon Rainbow

The most extravagant watch to date in 2021 has arrived courtesy of Hublot – the Big Bang Integral Tourbillon Rainbow. Combining Hublot’s signature porthole face with the integrated bracelet introduced last year, the Big Bang Integral Tourbillon Rainbow has almost every surface set with coloured gemstones. And ticking away inside is an in-house movement with a tourbillon and clear sapphire bridges. Initial thoughts Rainbow watches are the “it” watches of our era, with the Rolex Daytona “Rainbow” being the most famous of the multi-coloured, gem-set timepieces. But now Hublot has taken it to the outlandish next level. The Big Bang Integral Tourbillon Rainbow is a lot, probably too much, but it’s also a stunning example of gem setting – proof comes in the form of 36 carats of stones – with an unusually interesting movement. The movement will probably be overlooked by whoever buys either of the two unique examples, but it is quite accomplished in a technical sense: an automatic tourbillon wound by a micro-rotor, with everything held in place by clear sapphire bridges. Contrasting starkly with the densely saturated case, the movement is light and airy in its layout, with its wheels appearing to be floating within the case thanks to the transparent bridges. The only glaring shortcoming in its technical features is the Etachron regulator index for the tourbillon. It’s entirely functional, but typically found in less expensive watches. Even though I would not ...

INTRODUCING: the Hanhart PIONEER TwinControl #FliegerFriday Limited Edition Time+Tide
Aug 20, 2021

INTRODUCING: the Hanhart PIONEER TwinControl #FliegerFriday Limited Edition

Often our readers really respond to watches that are released by the less usual suspects. Something different and more approachable, that still serves up a serious level of quality and value to the prospective buyer. Hanhart may not be a household name, but it’s a storied German watch manufacture, established in 1882, with a rich … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: the Hanhart PIONEER TwinControl #FliegerFriday Limited Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Singer Reimagined Introduces the Track 1 DLS Edition SJX Watches
Aug 20, 2021

Singer Reimagined Introduces the Track 1 DLS Edition

Having just concluded, Monterey Car Week was a series of shows and auctions, concluding with the Pebble Beach Concours d’Elegance. The week was the venue for Porsche 911 specialist Singer Vehicle Design to exhibit the DLS for the first time in the United States. Launched in 2018, the DLS is a Porsche 964 that’s been entirely remade to be ultra-light and ultra-aerodynamic. To go along with the car, Singer Reimagined rolled out the Track 1 DLS Edition. It’s a new take on Singer’s trademark central chronograph, reimagined to be, well, ultra-light, while retaining its recognisable case design and thoroughly original Agenhor movement. Initial thoughts Because it combines a distinct, retro design along with a truly ingenious movement, I like the Track 1 (and I own another version of the watch). The DLS is essentially a condensed version of the same thing – and it’s cool. The aesthetic is pared-back just enough, while the composite case is an interesting novelty. Though the material is common in watchmaking, it’s a first for Singer. The only shortcoming I can uncover is a philosophical one: the DLS Edition echoes its namesake automobile with lightweight materials, but unlike the car, it doesn’t make any functional changes. The movement is identical to that of the standard model, but it is admittedly an excellent and innovative movement. Still, all that’s a moot point given that the watch is only available to owners of the car, of which there will be just 75. ...

OPINION: We’ll take scaled back diameters, but don’t scale back the offering in the process Time+Tide
Aug 19, 2021

OPINION: We’ll take scaled back diameters, but don’t scale back the offering in the process

I’ve always believed that in order to promote change, those who do not immediately benefit from it must be its staunchest ally. Though I have no issues with a watch sized above 40mm, those in the watch community who want smaller sizes need all the support they can get. Because in the current landscape, it … ContinuedThe post OPINION: We’ll take scaled back diameters, but don’t scale back the offering in the process appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Go faux it or faux pas? @timepeacer customizes his Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight Navy Blue Time+Tide
Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight Navy Aug 18, 2021

Go faux it or faux pas? @timepeacer customizes his Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight Navy Blue

Vintage watches and retro aesthetics have been dominant forces in the watch marketplace. A well and evenly patinated watch is an extremely valuable commodity, and these sorts of references can fetch incredible hammer prices at auction or among the many vendors who deal in vintage watches. But considering the high price tags for these properly … ContinuedThe post Go faux it or faux pas? @timepeacer customizes his Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight Navy Blue appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

DON’T FEED THE HYPE: three alternatives to the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Time+Tide
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak While Aug 18, 2021

DON’T FEED THE HYPE: three alternatives to the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak

While this series is called “Don’t Feed the Hype”, I am not saying these watches are all hype – they definitely offer aesthetics, finishes, craftsmanship, and technology to back it up. The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak is such a phenomenal reference that ultimately ushered in the era of Genta domination. I love the watch and, … ContinuedThe post DON’T FEED THE HYPE: three alternatives to the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Cartier Transforms the Baignoire Allongée Into a Gold-Mesh Glove SJX Watches
Cartier Transforms Aug 18, 2021

Cartier Transforms the Baignoire Allongée Into a Gold-Mesh Glove

A master of often extravagant, occasionally whimsical, jewelled timepieces, Cartier has just debuted the Mitten Watch. Despite the plain name, the Mitten Watch is a dramatic blend of the jeweller’s longstanding oval watch case – the Baignoire Allongée – and a half glove of woven rose gold, finished with a sprinkling of over 1,500 diamonds. The Mitten Watch is the first unique wristwatch in Clash [Un]limited, a riff on the Clash line up of edgy jewellery. A step upwards in both exclusivity and creativity, Clash [Un]limited is a collection of watches and jewellery made up entirely of limited editions or unique creations. The Baignoire Allongée camouflaged within the rose gold mesh  Initial thoughts Watches as jewellery are unsurprisingly a specialty of Cartier’s. Past examples include watches shaped like an overflowing bathtub, inspired by animals, and of course the famous Crash. But still the Mitten Watch still manages to stand out – it is quite a special creation. Being a metallic half glove certainly makes the watch interesting in both form and function, but the execution really brings the idea to life. The Baignoire Allongée – French for “elongated bathtub” – is perhaps the ideal choice for the design, with its stretched but slim profile that’s prominent enough to be visible, yet sleek enough not to be obtrusive, against the mesh glove. And then there are the diamonds that cascade outwards from the watch, giving the mitten a dynami...

VIDEO: The Hublot Big Bang Integral Blue Ceramic shows the potential future of sports watches Time+Tide
Hublot Big Bang Integral Blue Aug 17, 2021

VIDEO: The Hublot Big Bang Integral Blue Ceramic shows the potential future of sports watches

Hublot are a brand who love to outdo themselves, as well as outdoing everyone else. With the craze for blue-dialled steel sports watches fading slightly, there’s a chance to pounce on forging the new watch trends for decades to come, and the Big Bang Integral in blue ceramic is a real marker of what the … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The Hublot Big Bang Integral Blue Ceramic shows the potential future of sports watches appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The Oris Big Crown ProPilot Okavango Air Rescue Limited Edition Time+Tide
Oris Big Crown ProPilot Okavango Aug 17, 2021

INTRODUCING: The Oris Big Crown ProPilot Okavango Air Rescue Limited Edition

If you have been plugged into the watch world this year, then you are likely well aware of the fact that this is the year of green. It is the hot colour, with every manufacturer taking their own swing at the previously lesser seen dial tone. As a result, the colour has lost a little … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Oris Big Crown ProPilot Okavango Air Rescue Limited Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Up Close: Citizen Promaster Mechanical Diver 200 m SJX Watches
Citizen Promaster Mechanical Diver 200 Aug 16, 2021

Up Close: Citizen Promaster Mechanical Diver 200 m

Historically best known for ultra-advanced quartz and solar-powered watches – including the most accurate watch ever – Citizen has been on a tear recently with good, old-fashioned mechanical watches. The Japanese watchmaker started the year the high-end with The Citizen Caliber 0200, and then moved onto something more accessible but still sporting an integrated bracelet. More recently it took the covers off the Promaster Mechanical Diver 200 m ref. NB6004-08E. Oversized and aggressively styled, the new Promaster is eminently affordable – retail is about US$1,000 – but kitted out with impressive features, including a hardened case as well as a magnetism-resistant in-house movement, which makes it excellent value. (And it has a cool, glow-in-the-dark buckle.) Initial thoughts In my early days as a watch enthusiast, I had a soft spot for Seiko dive watches, because they were diverse in style and budget friendly. Citizen, on the other hand, didn’t feature as much, because it only offered one or two notable mechanical dive watches as the company largely focused on solar-powered watches (and still does). But Citizen is expanding its repertoire at a measured pace, but making tremendous progress. The Promaster Mechanical Diver 200 m is a single model, but offered in several variants (though availability of each version varies throughout the world). Citizen lent me the base model – brushed titanium with a black dial – for a few days. On paper, the watch is high s...