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In-Depth: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak “Jumbo” Ref. 16202 and the Cal. 7121 SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak “Jumbo” Ref Apr 27, 2022

In-Depth: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak “Jumbo” Ref. 16202 and the Cal. 7121

Launched in January 2022 to kick off the 50th anniversary year of Audemars Piguet’s most famous watch, the Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin ref. 16202 is the latest generation – or the third generation specifically – of the quintessential Royal Oak design. Design-wise the new “Jumbo” doesn’t depart from its predecessor, the ref. 15202, or even the original ref. 5402 of 1972. Audemars Piguet (AP) has smartly kept the design unchanged, but the watch has been thoroughly and smartly upgraded in many respects, especially in terms of ergonomics and mechanics. The new “Jumbo” is undoubtedly a “hype” watch of today, but it has considerable intrinsic qualities that mark it out as a thoughtfully constructed timepiece, most notably the cal. 7121 within that’s entirely new and the replacement for the long-in-tooth cal. 2120/2121 that has powered every generation of the “Jumbo” since 1972. Developed from the ground up to fit the slim dimensions of the “Jumbo” case, the cal. 7121 still manages to incorporate various amenities and advancements expected in a 21st century construction by a respected manufacture. We explain the movement in depth below. Initial thoughts Famously penned by Gerald Genta in 1972, the original Royal Oak ref. 5402 has near perfect proportions. Wide but flat, angular yet graceful, the “Jumbo” is easily distinguishable from other Royal Oak models. Most other Royal Oak models tend to be thicker regardless of diameter, making the ...

MEET THE TEAM: Ricardo’s top five from Watches & Wonders Time+Tide
Apr 26, 2022

MEET THE TEAM: Ricardo’s top five from Watches & Wonders

We’re a couple of weeks removed from Watches and Wonders and I’ve had enough time to recover from all the spicy salami and new watch releases. I’ve thought about the 100+ watches that I spent a few minutes with, in the hope of identifying those that left a lasting impression. And truly, there were some … ContinuedThe post MEET THE TEAM: Ricardo’s top five from Watches & Wonders appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Ineichen to auction unique Konstantin Chaykin Joker, Porsche 911 and NFT set on April 30 Time+Tide
Konstantin Chaykin Apr 26, 2022

Ineichen to auction unique Konstantin Chaykin Joker, Porsche 911 and NFT set on April 30

In May 2021, Ineichen sold the world’s most-expensive NFT token for a watch. With a final hammer price of CHF 52,080, Konstantin Chaykin’s Joker NFT, which depicts all the possible combinations of a Joker watch, became a world record-holder. On April 30, in their first-ever timed auction, Ineichen looks to once again appeal to bidders … ContinuedThe post Ineichen to auction unique Konstantin Chaykin Joker, Porsche 911 and NFT set on April 30 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

TAG Heuer Autavia Chronometer Flyback Hands-on Review WatchAdvice
TAG Heuer Autavia Chronometer Flyback Hands-on Apr 25, 2022

TAG Heuer Autavia Chronometer Flyback Hands-on Review

The Watch That Changed My Mind On TAG! What we love: Comfortable and easy to wear, light for its size and specsBang for buck in finish, movement and specsGood looking design with vintage ques What we don’t love: Wears on the larger size for a 42mm mainly due to its heightNoisy movement and winding rotor (some may like this though)Some wearers may find the dial harder to read at a glance with the lack of contrast in the numerals Overall rating: 8/10 Value for money: 7.5/10 Wearability: 7.5 / 10 Design: 8.5/10 Build quality: 8.5/10 Tag Heuer has always been one of those brands that never grabbed my attention. I always saw it as a watch brand that was a little overpriced, and like a lot of brands, you’re paying for more marketing than the watch itself. Now, I have owned a Tag Heuer Carrera Heuer01 in the past, so I’m not adverse to TAG at all, but it has since moved on to make way for others in my collection. So when I had the opportunity to get my hands on the new 60th Anniversary limited edition Autavia Flyback Chronograph, I was looking forward to road testing the latest iteration of the distinguished Autavia line. A Short History Lesson Before we go any further, let’s take a step back and in case you’re not familiar with the Autavia model and its history, here’s a quick refresh. The Autavia wristwatch collection, the first product launched under the leadership of Jack Heuer 60 years ago, got its name from two pillars of TAG Heuer’s history: Automobile and Av...

MICRO MONDAYS: The Makina Gabriel delivers singular looks at a bargain price Time+Tide
Apr 25, 2022

MICRO MONDAYS: The Makina Gabriel delivers singular looks at a bargain price

The popularity of microbrands is predominantly down to two main reasons. Firstly, there is the fact that they’re often far more affordable than established watch brands, but of equal importance is their relative freedom to create fresh ideas without the pressure that a century-long history brings. Instead of re-hashing old designs with slight updates every … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The Makina Gabriel delivers singular looks at a bargain price appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Bell & Ross BR 03-94 Multimeter: Concentrically Colorful Quill & Pad
Bell & Ross BR 03-94 Multimeter Concentrically Apr 23, 2022

Bell & Ross BR 03-94 Multimeter: Concentrically Colorful

Rarely has the term sports watch been as appropriate as when applied to the BR 03-94 Multimeter from Bell & Ross. This nifty chronograph displays five different scales on the dial to measure various things. In that sense, it is a modern-day version of the vintage chronographs with “snail scales” that did the same, though not in such an elaborate way.

The Royal Oak pricing strategy in 1972 was absolutely wild Time+Tide
Audemars Piguet Georges Golay Apr 23, 2022

The Royal Oak pricing strategy in 1972 was absolutely wild

If you were ever wondering what started the stainless-steel sports watch craze we find ourselves in today, none of it would have been possible without one particular watch – which recently celebrated its 50th Birthday. On April 15th, 1972, Audemars Piguet, Georges Golay, and Gérald Genta would forever change the luxury sports watch segment – … ContinuedThe post The Royal Oak pricing strategy in 1972 was absolutely wild appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Highlights: Patek Philippe and Rolex at Sotheby’s Hong Kong Auction SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Apr 23, 2022

Highlights: Patek Philippe and Rolex at Sotheby’s Hong Kong Auction

Sotheby’s is kicking off the spring season of the year’s watch auctions with two consecutive sales in Hong Kong that take place in a week’s time. The first is an evening sale of a single-owner collection of exceptional vintage Patek Philippe watches. And it will be followed by Important Watches I, which includes several good examples of independent watchmaking. Though the single-owner sale has most of the significant vintage Patek Philippe watches offered by Sotheby’s, it doesn’t encompass all of them. One of the major lots is a Patek Philippe ref. 2524 minute repeating wristwatch. We take a look at that along with several other highlights from Important Watches I, both vintage and modern, including an arguably underrated complicated (and bejewelled) watch for men by Van Cleef & Arpels (VC&A;). Important Watches I starts at 2:00 pm (GMT +8) on April 26, 2022. Registration for bidding and the full catalogue can be accessed here. The VC&A; Midnight Poetic Wish Lot 2144: Rolex Daytona ref. 16523 “Floating” signed “Tiffany & Co.” The most desirable Rolex Daytonas are typically steel, with the two-tone versions often being the most affordable, perhaps because the two-tone look is generally less sought after regardless of brand. But this steel-and-gold ref. 16523 is notable enough that it was included in Daytona Perpetual, the reference tome covering many rare and unusual variants of the model published by Italian Rolex specialist Pucci Papaleo. The key fe...

Hublot Introduces the Big Bang Integral Tourbillon Repeater Ceramic SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet having made such watches Apr 22, 2022

Hublot Introduces the Big Bang Integral Tourbillon Repeater Ceramic

Having unveiled a series of integrated-bracelet watches in candy-coloured ceramic at Watches & Wonders 2022, Hublot has followed up with a “high complication” in ceramic, the Big Bang Integral Cathedral Minute Repeater Ceramic. While complicated watches in end-to-end ceramic already exist, striking watches in ceramic are rare, with only Hublot and Audemars Piguet having made such watches. The Big Bang Integral is novel for combining both a tourbillon and repeater, one with longer-than-usual cathedral gongs in fact. And it manages to be water resistant in contrast to most striking watches that are merely moisture-proof, due to the challenge of sealing the slide while allowing maximum sound transmission. Initial thoughts The latest Big Bang Integral perfectly encapsulates Hublot as a brand, illustrating its strengths (and a few weaknesses). It’s powered by a complex, in-house movement contained matched with a case and bracelet that showcases the brand’s proficiency with unusual materials – all of which is possible thanks to the brand’s expansive yet agile manufacture. In typical Hublot fashion, the watch is loud – visually rather than acoustically – even in black. It looks like a Hublot, and the brand has essentially only one aesthetic. It has a technical, modern aesthetic that goes well with the open dial, a feature that’s uncommon in minute repeaters but useful since it reveals the entirety of the strikework. At almost US$300,000, the Tourbillon Repeat...

Pretty in pink (and purple) – Nomos spin the colour wheel for the new Club Campus Time+Tide
Omega Apr 20, 2022

Pretty in pink (and purple) – Nomos spin the colour wheel for the new Club Campus

Colour is no longer a novelty in the watch space, with many brands releasing rainbow-inspired dials in their everyday wear pieces. We’ve extensively covered the contributions from Rolex and Omega to name but a couple. Nomos is also no stranger to colour, previously applying a bright touch to the Ahoi. With the new Club Campus “blue … ContinuedThe post Pretty in pink (and purple) – Nomos spin the colour wheel for the new Club Campus appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Boxer Amir Khan robbed at gun point for £72,000 Franck Muller Vanguard Chronograph Time+Tide
Franck Muller Apr 19, 2022

Boxer Amir Khan robbed at gun point for £72,000 Franck Muller Vanguard Chronograph

Amir Khan has become the latest celebrity victim of watch crime after the British boxer was robbed at gun-point in London last night. The former world champion posted on Twitter that he and his wife, Faryal Makhdoom, were recovering after being confronted by two men in East London with his diamond-encrusted Franck Muller snatched in the robbery. … ContinuedThe post Boxer Amir Khan robbed at gun point for £72,000 Franck Muller Vanguard Chronograph appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Why Fortis is sending their latest new movement into space Time+Tide
Fortis Apr 19, 2022

Why Fortis is sending their latest new movement into space

Fortis is no stranger to outer space. The 1962 Spacematic presented to Gemini astronauts paved the way for Fortis’ space-dwelling endeavours, before partnering cosmonaut expeditions between 1992 and 2003 and achieving the ultimate goal of sending a watch into space. Now, some three decades later, Fortis launch an in-house chronograph movement, the WERK 17, both … ContinuedThe post Why Fortis is sending their latest new movement into space appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Atelier Wen Perception is a masterclass of guilloché craftmanship Time+Tide
Cartier released Apr 18, 2022

The Atelier Wen Perception is a masterclass of guilloché craftmanship

The Atelier Wen Perception is a phenomenal example of a brand owner with a specific vision who refused to cut a single corner in the execution of their watch. This year, Cartier released a new version of the Tank Chinoise that pays tribute to Chinese architecture. But that same sentiment means significantly more coming from … ContinuedThe post The Atelier Wen Perception is a masterclass of guilloché craftmanship appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

MICRO-MONDAYS: The Audric Strider is a stylish diver with hefty wrist presence for under $600 (if you’re quick) Time+Tide
Apr 18, 2022

MICRO-MONDAYS: The Audric Strider is a stylish diver with hefty wrist presence for under $600 (if you’re quick)

Audric launched their first watch in 2020, deep in the throes of the global pandemic. The SeaBorne stood out from the crowd of Kickstarter-funded dive watches due to its multicoloured flair, attention to detail and impressive bang for its buck. For their second watch, the Audric Strider, the brand has now pulled out all the stops … ContinuedThe post MICRO-MONDAYS: The Audric Strider is a stylish diver with hefty wrist presence for under $600 (if you’re quick) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Business News: Aiôn Attempts to Reestablish French Watchmaking SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Apr 17, 2022

Business News: Aiôn Attempts to Reestablish French Watchmaking

Just as the biggest watch fair of the year opened its doors in Switzerland earlier in April, an industrial-scale watchmaking enterprise was born in France. Conceived as a vertically-integrated watchmaking group that makes movements for its own brands Aiôn Group, wants to establish “Made in France” as a key segment in a luxury-watch arena that’s dominated by Swiss, German, and Japanese players. Backed by government funding, Aiôn has the ambitious goal of producing 400,000 movements per year by 2025 in its new manufacture on the Mediterranean coast near Marseille. Although Aiôn has kept mum about the origins of its industrial capability, it is well known within the Swiss watch industry that the French group took over Swiss movement maker Felsa-Leschot, which was then moved lock, stock, and barrel to France. [Update April 20, 2022: Respected Swiss newspaper Le Temps published an article expressing scepticism about Aiôn, especially about the movement “factory” that Aiôn acquired. The article references the factory owner’s chequered history and involvement in multiple lawsuits. We believe the doubts expressed by the writer at Le Temps are well founded and would encourage everyone to read the article of March 16.] A Swiss foundation One of Aiôn’s founders is Anthony Simao, a French watchmaker who started his career in Swiss watchmaking, having worked at Breitling, Audemars Piguet, and Chronode. He then founded French watch brand Lornet, which has been merge...

INTRODUCING: The Hublot Classic Fusion 45mm Bronze Brown Limited Edition Time+Tide
Hublot Classic Fusion 45mm Bronze Apr 17, 2022

INTRODUCING: The Hublot Classic Fusion 45mm Bronze Brown Limited Edition

As a materials expert, Hublot has done it all. Steel, titanium, carbon, proprietary precious alloys, and ceramic and sapphire in endless colourways. So, to say that there is now an opportunity to grab a watch from Hublot in an uncommon material may come as a bit of a surprise. But, the truth is Hublot does … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Hublot Classic Fusion 45mm Bronze Brown Limited Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Vacheron Constantin Patrimony remains a top discreet flex piece Time+Tide
Vacheron Constantin Patrimony remains Apr 17, 2022

The Vacheron Constantin Patrimony remains a top discreet flex piece

“It’s not the notes you play, it’s the notes you don’t play.” – Miles Davis. We’re all guilty of it. Nothing succeeds like excess, and as watch enthusiasts, the tendency to subscribe to the “more is more” philosophy is pretty common. Hyper-busy dials, openworked movements, or a Roman banquet’s worth of complications are often what … ContinuedThe post The Vacheron Constantin Patrimony remains a top discreet flex piece appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: The Ace x Nomos Club 36 Blue Limited Edition Time+Tide
Nomos Club 36 Blue Limited Apr 16, 2022

HANDS-ON: The Ace x Nomos Club 36 Blue Limited Edition

Watch brand collaborations with jewellers definitely aren’t as in-vogue as they once were, but Nomos’ team-up with Ace Jewelers proves that it should be done more often, as vendors of beautiful objects clearly know how to make a great looking watch. The Club 36 range from Nomos is one of their bestsellers, as its understated … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Ace x Nomos Club 36 Blue Limited Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.